Run-in oil?





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Thread: Run-in oil?

  1. #1
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    Default Run-in oil?

    So the 300tdi has been rebuilt and is running smooth, starts immediately, and more importantly no leaks or knocking anymore.

    Here is a question I have been wondering about though. Do people still use run-in/break-in oil and if yes which do you use?

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    Default Re: Run-in oil?

    SAE30 was always considered the correct oil.

    on old minis we did the following:

    500km maximum on SAE30 then new filter and a decent multigrade for the next 1500km. No synthetics.
    Then normal service intervals.
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    Default Re: Run-in oil?

    Is a 30 oil not to thick for a turbo engine? I'm using Penrite 15w40 running in oil for mine. Was just curious if people still used running in oils.

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    Default Re: Run-in oil?

    i use only SAE40
    going to 30 may cause oil pressure to be insufficient when hot.
    it compared in viscocity with the 5W40 most engines run on.
    i normally try to find oil with as few additives as possible as the additives hamper the ability for the rings to bed in properly.
    run for 2000 - 5000km and then flush and replace with good quality oil.
    also replace the oil filter

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    Default Re: Run-in oil?

    I FCYou can get run-in oil from John Deere (bought at Delmas agent). I used it after my 300tdi rebuild in Jan 2016, drove 2 000 kms with it and from thereon Caltex Delo 400. I can't notice oil consumption between services (normally change oil between 5 000 and 6000 km).

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    Default Re: Run-in oil?

    not sure what they use, but i just bought a land cruiser v8 diesel, wanted to do a oil change after the first 1000km, was told not to because it has running in oil in it. something to do with soap and other stuff.
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    Default Re: Run-in oil?

    SAE40 for 1000km. Drain, new filter and a premium 15w40 for the refill
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    Default Re: Run-in oil?

    Running in oil is not about the viscosity, it is about the additive level. Running in is a process where you are allowing wear to take place under controlled conditions. Whether you use an SAE 30 or an SAE 20W50 is not going to make any difference for the run in.

    To allow wear to take place / run in you need an engine oil with a low anti wear level and for the tdi you are looking for an engine oil with an API level "CC". It might appear as an API SF / "CC" which will be fine as long as it has the "CC". This can be in multigrade (eg 20W/50) or monograde (eg SAE 30). You might have a bit of a hard time finding something as low as "CC" but they are around.

    That spec oil is only suitable for 1000 km run in period.

    I will PM you my number if you need to confirm / discuss available specs when you are shopping.
    Last edited by Sneaky Pete; 2018/07/06 at 07:11 PM.
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  10. #9
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    Default Re: Run-in oil?

    Quote Originally Posted by Sneaky Pete View Post

    To allow wear to take place / run in you need an engine oil with a low anti wear level and for the tdi you are looking for an engine oil with an API level "CC". It might appear as an API SF / "CC" which will be fine as long as it has the "CC". This can be in multigrade (eg 20W/50) or monograde (eg SAE 30).
    Midas liquid gold SAE40 used to be a good running in oil. But haven't checked the spec for a while.
    Ravenol makes a good running in oil (labelled as break in oil) maybe give them a call? It is a SAE30
    www.ravenol.co.za
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    Default Re: Run-in oil?

    To complicate matters, the question must be ask how to do the run in of a new engine. I changed oils at 1500km to a very good quality mineral oil. The run in was done with a long trip where you accelerate and decelerate on piston compression... Just my way of doing it.
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    Default Re: Run-in oil?

    I have always believed, motor must labor but not rev high

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    Default Re: Run-in oil?

    Idling around doesn't help it

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  16. #13
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    Default Re: Run-in oil?

    Quote Originally Posted by _FC View Post
    I'm using Penrite 15w40 running in oil for mine.
    Which is an SAE40 base with some additives.
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    Default Re: Run-in oil?

    running in needs to be done, drive slowly until the motor and everything is warm, rev and drive it like normal, do not labour the motor, but you must drive it like you stole it one in while, i think it is all about getting it hot and cooling it down, at the correct times. no use never reving it over 3000 and then after so many km, you drive it like you stole it. it needs to as far as i understand seat properly or whatever you call it. so it must be revved to the limit some times during the running in period. if anything is going to go south it should go in the running in period.that's just my take, and how i have done it in the past.
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    Default Re: Run-in oil?

    This is how we used to do it on tight new thumper engines:

    first 100kms: vary throttle between 1/3 and 2/3: vary often, don't run one speed
    next 300kms: vary throttle between 1/4 and 3/4: vary often, don't run one speed
    next 100kms: As above but occasionally take throttle up to full open for short bursts then CUT the throttle on a downhill to allow full compression engine braking: this allows the final bedding in of the compression rings

    Service.

    Then drive it like you stole it for HALF a service interval and service again.

    FILTERS MUST BE REPLACED AT EVERY OIL CHANGE.

    We used a similar process on Mini and Essex engines: just used a rev counter to determine engine RPM instead of throttle opening.

    As mentioned: DON'T LUG the engine excessively at any stage in the run in period: 1000rpm is possible for most diesels, but I'd say 1200rpm is a better RPM. A 300TDi should be happy anywhere between 1200 and 3000rpm during run-in.
    I'd say 3400 should be your peak RPM, but I'm no expert on that engine, and I suggest getting it to 3400 and chopping the throttle closed, don't keep it there
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  19. #16
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    Default Re: Run-in oil?

    As said by many above, a run-in oil must provide just the necessary amount (bare minimum if possible) of lubrication and must not have fancy anti-frictions additives so that piston rings can bed in on sleeves properly. Since a well known company such as John Deere sells specifically a run-in oil, that is what I have used and whilst it was fairly expensive (+/- R700 per 5 l x 2) I believe it is money well spent.

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