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Hi Everybody
I bought a 1983 Series III 109 with the ADE236 engine that I want to restore. I'll be posting some pics of when I got it first and then some more as I progress (and as I need advice PLEASE?).
Here are the first few phodies...
Remember if you need engine parts, it's also called a Perkins 4.236 as far as I know.
Jakes Louw
2012 Jeep Sahara Unlimited 3.6 V6
Percivamus
Looks like you got your work cut out for you! Good luck with it and keep us posted! Oh and put a V8 in that engine bay!
Mark Backler
09 Kyron, the Korean Snail.
NO Meeow!
Blanked EGR.
Thermo Electric Cooling fan.
Firewalls not too bad.....
That looks like fun, dont people get tired of buying wrecks to rebuild or don't many of you have full time jobs?!
That is apart from those that rebuild vehicles as a full time job!
I've learnt to rather just look for a vehicle that just needs some tlc/spit n polish or work that can be budgeted for and farmed out.
Seeing all the work needed in the OP's new car makes me cringe, been there done that and then seen the new owner once I finally sold them enjoying the fruits of my hard labour. The point is if you don't buy right and the budget is limited it's very easy to get stuck into the never ending and painful/soul destroying job of polishing a turd![]()
Nevertheless good luck to the op and I hope you have budgeted well in time and money for your new project.
Budget for a proper ground up rebuild/restoration R100.000 have done many.
Thanks All
Yeah, I know I've got a long, hard (expensive) road ahead of me, BUT... it will be worth it. I've had one of these before, but was stupid enough to sell it. Since then, I've been looking for another one for close to 11 years. And finally my patience paid off.
There were others for sale, but were overpriced to me for the conditions they were in. I picked this one up for less than ten (won't say exactly lest people start drooling).
PLUS
although there is much work to be done, the galvanized chassis is still 100%, no cracks in the diffs - although I'm going to change the bearings and seals all over as it was standing for a long time.
The body's overall condition is about 90% and I will definitely respray completely.
Suspension generally OK, but will redo springs and new shocks.
THEN... the engine!!! That was the main reason for looking so long. These beasts aren't fast, but boy, have they got low down torque. I will redo the engine completely as well and it is going to cost me less than R15000.00 - the beauty of ADE.
The only 2 limits are money and time, but it isn't too much of a hassle, because the limited time obviously affords me the time to save enough for each next project.
Anyways, I'll post any new updates as the happen...
Hi Hannes
How is your project coming along? I'm interested because I would like to do the same thing someday.
and I've got ALL the spares he needs standing on 4 good wheels![]()
Merit before Race - anything else IS Racism.
Stay Calm, engage low-ratio, keep buggering on - a Landy Man
Longevity isn't worth dying for,
;d;d;d;d;d;d
sorry - 5 good wheels.![]()
Last edited by Capt Chaos; 2018/05/06 at 11:52 AM.
Merit before Race - anything else IS Racism.
Stay Calm, engage low-ratio, keep buggering on - a Landy Man
Longevity isn't worth dying for,
Hi GuysI am sorry for not posting anything for so long (I never even realised just HOW long)... https://www.4x4community.co.za/forum...shocked.gifAnd no, I haven't given up or sold it. I've just been so busy at work that I hardly had time to do anything. PLUS, as I've stated in my OP... patience! I've been stripping it and will post photos of this process (watch out for the firewall - some previous dude "really knew what he was doing there).What I've discovered is true to what Mike Cullen said, so I'm preparing to rebuild from the ground up. It seems to me this vehicle drove into the sea, then mud, then a cow farm - all one right after the other. There is so much muck everywhere which is currently taking most of my time - the cleaning!I've got one question though; why on earth would anybody attempt to rubberize a galvanized chassis? https://www.4x4community.co.za/forum...es/huh.gifWell, here goes with the photos...I will post more as I've got time, but for now, I'm looking for a good, rust-free fuel tank and holder plate if any of you might have some lying around?Until next time
I don’t see a problem.... the later Defenders didn’t have flaps![]()
Good day to you all
it has been a long time since I posted on this project as I had another to complete first.
but now it is time to get back on track with this one.
So, I completely stripped the rear suspension and took out the diff. The spring packs still looked fine, but the U-bolts were under tightened.
this caused the hole on the diff where the center bolts go into, to be worn.
A buddy of mine with engineering shop has helped me to repair this.
Got the spring packs refurbished anyway - with new center bolts, U-bolts and bushes.
.... and then the other shoe dropped...
the shackles on this vehicle seems to have been home made.
Has anyone got drawings of the rear spring shackles that I can give to my buddy to get new ones made?
Any help will be appreciated.
Contact Gary Frank, his number is in the name section of his posts, he will sort you out.
Cheers,
John Kilfoil
Rover P6
Land Rover Discovery II Td5 Manual
Range Rover P38 HSE
Moto Guzzi LeMans
Aprilia Tuono V2
Don’t try DIY u-bolts...... the threads are rolled (not cut with a die) and deform when tightened..... that’s why we don’t re-use them.
Rather buy new ones....
Thanks GaryFrank
I've already bought new ones from a place in Port Elizabeth.
now I just need the drawings for the shackles if anyone might something like that...
Did you ask Savoy, shackles are cheep cheap Cheep
My friend Peter is a Diesel landrover whisperer.
Ill PM you his number call him
Defender Kalahari
Series 3 SWB
Series 1 De Luxe Cab Pickup
Series 1 Station Wagon 88''
I’ve just bought a full set of shackles (1951 Series 1 88).
I’ll post some pics & dimensions tomorrow
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