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  1. #81
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    Default Re: 3D Printer Build

    And I have to brag about my little belt tensioner as well, frsh off the bed

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    It will fir through the Y-Ax Mount which I still need to print.

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  2. #82
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    Default Re: 3D Printer Build

    I changed my mind.
    The Prusa MK2s is a much better design compared to mine.

    The real Mccoy,

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    My Mccoy

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  3. #83
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    Default Re: 3D Printer Build

    Quote Originally Posted by SBSP View Post
    I changed my mind.
    The Prusa MK2s is a much better design compared to mine.

    The real Mccoy,

    Click image for larger version. 

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    My Mccoy

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    Wich version are you building? Or is it the direct open source version from Thingyverse?

  4. #84
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    Default Re: 3D Printer Build

    Quote Originally Posted by Karoo Klong View Post
    Wich version are you building? Or is it the direct open source version from Thingyverse?
    The actual Prusa MK2s.

    Assembly Instructions.
    http://manual.prusa3d.com/c/Original...2_kit_assembly


    I'm also downloading the parts from Prusa3D
    https://www.prusa3d.com/prusa-i3-printable-parts/

    I wont be using the real Prusa Firmware and mini rambo, I'm just going to make use of ramps and marlin
    Last edited by SBSP; 2018/04/28 at 05:28 PM.
    JK 3.8L 2010 Rubicon Manual 2 door

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  6. #85
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    Default Re: 3D Printer Build

    Quote Originally Posted by SBSP View Post
    The actual Prusa MK2s.

    Assembly Instructions.
    http://manual.prusa3d.com/c/Original...2_kit_assembly


    I'm also downloading the parts from Prusa3D
    https://www.prusa3d.com/prusa-i3-printable-parts/

    I wont be using the real Prusa Firmware and mini rambo, I'm just going to make use of ramps and marlin
    That's cool. I would really like to try this same route as well for a second printer.

  7. #86
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    Default Re: 3D Printer Build

    Quote Originally Posted by Karoo Klong View Post
    That's cool. I would really like to try this same route as well for a second printer.
    Do it! I have to admit though, When I saw the other guy's MK3 frame when I went to pick it up from the people who water jet it for me, I felt a bit that I should have rather built the Prusa MK3.
    The only issue is its making use of 20x30 Alu extrution instead of threaded rod. With threaded rod you can adjust the orientation of things with inaccurately cut extrusion you cant.
    Plan is to also include auto bed leveling.

    [Edit] Once everything is done, I will start to dissect the Marlin source code and study G-code into more detail. There must be an alternative to auto mesh leveling to auto correct the skew ness of the assembly.
    Last edited by SBSP; 2018/04/28 at 06:57 PM.
    JK 3.8L 2010 Rubicon Manual 2 door

  8. #87
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    Default Re: 3D Printer Build

    Quote Originally Posted by SBSP View Post
    Do it! I have to admit though, When I saw the other guy's MK3 frame when I went to pick it up from the people who water jet it for me, I felt a bit that I should have rather built the Prusa MK3.
    The only issue is its making use of 20x30 Alu extrution instead of threaded rod. With threaded rod you can adjust the orientation of things with inaccurately cut extrusion you cant.
    Plan is to also include auto bed leveling.

    [Edit] Once everything is done, I will start to dissect the Marlin source code and study G-code into more detail. There must be an alternative to auto mesh leveling to auto correct the skew ness of the assembly.
    I was also wondering why you did not concider Mk3.
    There actually is an alternative, I saw it somewhere on our Ormerod forum. I will have to go and scout for it. Let you know when I find it.

  9. #88
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    Default Re: 3D Printer Build

    I've built a few 3d printers before, the Prusa type printers are maybe the simplest type but can achieve some of the best prints. Auto bed levelling is a must, the first layer of any print is what makes all the difference between a good print and a bad print. A servo operated z-switch or a BL Touch probe is not difficult to incorperate with some small changes to the Marlin code and once its dialed in, it makes live so much easier.

  10. #89
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    Default Re: 3D Printer Build

    Ending the long weekend on a positive note.

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    The mechanics is almost done. I only need a few more things, Heated Bed, E3D Hotend and the extruder and capacitive probe.
    The left Z-Axis has a horrible vibration noise and its radiating into the frame. After allot of trouble shooting I found its not the the bearings or the alignment. Its the actual stepper and its brand new. Got it yesterday.

    When turning the motor shaft the steps are very rough. It feels as if they are making bigger steps. Wonder if the guy at the shop didnt give me a different motor.

    Quote Originally Posted by Optimus-Prime View Post
    I've built a few 3d printers before, the Prusa type printers are maybe the simplest type but can achieve some of the best prints. Auto bed levelling is a must, the first layer of any print is what makes all the difference between a good print and a bad print. A servo operated z-switch or a BL Touch probe is not difficult to incorperate with some small changes to the Marlin code and once its dialed in, it makes live so much easier.
    Yep Auto level will be implemented
    Last edited by SBSP; 2018/05/01 at 07:27 PM.
    JK 3.8L 2010 Rubicon Manual 2 door

  11. #90
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    Wink Re: 3D Printer Build

    Quote Originally Posted by SBSP View Post
    Ending the long weekend on a positive note.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    The mechanics is almost done. I only need a few more things, Heated Bed, E3D Hotend and the extruder and capacitive probe.
    The left Z-Axis has a horrible vibration noise and its radiating into the frame. After allot of trouble shooting I found its not the the bearings or the alignment. Its the actual stepper and its brand new. Got it yesterday.

    When turning the motor shaft the steps are very rough. It feels as if they are making bigger steps. Wonder if the guy at the shop didnt give me a different motor.



    Yep Auto level will be implemented


    You most probably got the 4 wires of the stepper motor connected wrong.The z axis motors should be connected in parallel, in other words the red with red, blue with blue etc. and then plugged in to the z axis connector of the ramps board. Normally the ramps board have a double socket for the z axis, then each stepper motor is connected in its own socket, but still in parallel. Make sure the connections are identical for both motors.
    Its great to see so many okes building their own machines...! Its a great feeling seeing your creation coming alive !
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  13. #91
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    Default Re: 3D Printer Build

    I haven't connected any motors yet. It does all this just by turning it by hand.
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  14. #92
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    Default Re: 3D Printer Build

    Found the issue! Its not actually a problem.

    To keep the wires out the way I cable tied them into a bunch, then ends of the motor leads are pre-stripped and in the bunch touching each other. When you crank the shaft it's generating electricity. And because the leads are shorted out the motor is harder to turn. Last thing i checked. I did this because on my ANet 3d printer if you move the bed with a slow continuous movement whilst the printer is off the printer actually starts to boot up. That made me think they are shorted out. I didnt think it would make such a big difference when just cranking by hand. That's how you learn!
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  15. #93
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    Default Re: 3D Printer Build

    Almost there.

    I managed to print and build the extruder, cooling fan, heatsink fan. I also got a E3D V6 fake, the circumference was slightly bigger, so I had to print some small spacers that will separate the extruder body and cover , you cant even see its there when assembled. I also installed the capacitive metal sensor for autolevel. It also was too big. The original Prusa MK2S's sensor is 8mm, the one i got is about 10mm, So again I printed a pin with a ring on it so I can move it slightly, I hope its not going to be an issue.

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    Then 7 hours later I managed to print an enclosure to house the RAMPS and Mega, I have to unfortunatly re-print it, I only received the LCD screen and RAMPS adapter yesterday and its offset from the board so now it all does not fit, the fan will also blow against the arduino and ramps header not cooling anything so that has to be moved to the lid. Bit of a bummer.

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    and in the meanwhile i' trying to get marlin going. I cant get it to recognize the SD card for some reason.

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    Last edited by SBSP; 2018/05/16 at 07:30 PM.
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  17. #94
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    Default Re: 3D Printer Build

    Quote Originally Posted by SBSP View Post
    Almost there.

    I managed to print and build the extruder, cooling fan, heatsink fan. I also got a E3D V6 fake, the circumference was slightly bigger, so I had to print some small spacers that will separate the extruder body and cover , you cant even see its there when assembled. I also installed the capacitive metal sensor for autolevel. It also was too big. The original Prusa MK2S's sensor is 8mm, the one i got is about 10mm, So again I printed a pin with a ring on it so I can move it slightly, I hope its not going to be an issue.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Click image for larger version. 

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    Then 7 hours later I managed to print an enclosure to house the RAMPS and Mega, I have to unfortunatly re-print it, I only received the LCD screen and RAMPS adapter yesterday and its offset from the board so now it all does not fit, the fan will also blow against the arduino and ramps header not cooling anything so that has to be moved to the lid. Bit of a bummer.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    and in the meanwhile i' trying to get marlin going. I cant get it to recognize the SD card for some reason.

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    Really impressive progress.
    What material are you printing with?
    PLA, PETG definitely not ABS?

  18. #95
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    Default Re: 3D Printer Build

    PLA, Not sure if the extruder will hold up, But we'll soon find out.
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  20. #96
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    Default Re: 3D Printer Build

    Quote Originally Posted by SBSP View Post
    PLA, Not sure if the extruder will hold up, But we'll soon find out.
    You really make me wanna build one of those as well. My current machine is set up for ABS and PETG. Just haven't done PETG yet. I have trouble with cooling fan at the moment. The 6 point junction plug is failing causing the hotend to have thermal runaway. I can't find the small plug I need to fix the problem. Would also really like to start doing PLA

  21. #97
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    Default Re: 3D Printer Build

    Quote Originally Posted by Karoo Klong View Post
    You really make me wanna build one of those as well. My current machine is set up for ABS and PETG. Just haven't done PETG yet. I have trouble with cooling fan at the moment. The 6 point junction plug is failing causing the hotend to have thermal runaway. I can't find the small plug I need to fix the problem. Would also really like to start doing PLA
    Why cant you just go with PLA ? it should be easier to print compared to ABS, It has a slightly lower melting mount and bed temp than ABS. It doesnt warp, It sticks very nicely to glass covered with hairspray. When the bed cools off you can just pop it off. Since I started to use glass and hair spray , bed adhesion troubles is a thing of the past. I dont even use a brim to make my print stick. I usually print between 185 and 198 degrees. weirdly i get good results with green PLA filament using 195 degrees and best results with orange PLA at 185 degrees.

    I tried printing with PETG I have 2 spools of grey and Lime Green, Its a bit stringy when you print. If you look in the picture the Z-Ax where the leadscrew joins the motor, thats PETG. I also printed the PSU mount with PETG, it came out Okayish. Not sure Im a fan of it. Maybe because PLA is so much easier to print with.
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  22. #98
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    Default Re: 3D Printer Build

    Quote Originally Posted by SBSP View Post
    Why cant you just go with PLA ? it should be easier to print compared to ABS, It has a slightly lower melting mount and bed temp than ABS. It doesnt warp, It sticks very nicely to glass covered with hairspray. When the bed cools off you can just pop it off. Since I started to use glass and hair spray , bed adhesion troubles is a thing of the past. I dont even use a brim to make my print stick. I usually print between 185 and 198 degrees. weirdly i get good results with green PLA filament using 195 degrees and best results with orange PLA at 185 degrees.

    I tried printing with PETG I have 2 spools of grey and Lime Green, Its a bit stringy when you print. If you look in the picture the Z-Ax where the leadscrew joins the motor, thats PETG. I also printed the PSU mount with PETG, it came out Okayish. Not sure Im a fan of it. Maybe because PLA is so much easier to print with.
    Well PLA does not really work for any structurally inclined parts. And my printer is not equipped with a part cooling fan yet.
    I reprinted all the PLA parts in ABS and most of the structural parts I made out of aluminium to prevent cracking and sagging. I travel alot with my printer so it has it's individual challenges.

  23. #99
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    Default Re: 3D Printer Build

    LCD Is up, looking good.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I started with the wiring, Spent most of the day extending all the motor leads , end stops and sensors. When I wanted move the the Z-Ax up and down to make sure the leads are long enough, then only did i realize the controller box is too wide and the X-Motor will crash against the controller. Bit of a bummer!

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    I have to make a different plan now. I'm thinking to mount it opposite of the PSU or flat inline with the Y-Ax at the back.
    JK 3.8L 2010 Rubicon Manual 2 door

  24. #100
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    Default Re: 3D Printer Build

    Quote Originally Posted by SBSP View Post
    LCD Is up, looking good.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	5.png 
Views:	52 
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ID:	489312

    I started with the wiring, Spent most of the day extending all the motor leads , end stops and sensors. When I wanted move the the Z-Ax up and down to make sure the leads are long enough, then only did i realize the controller box is too wide and the X-Motor will crash against the controller. Bit of a bummer!

    Click image for larger version. 

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Views:	50 
Size:	1.80 MB 
ID:	489313

    I have to make a different plan now. I'm thinking to mount it opposite of the PSU or flat inline with the Y-Ax at the back.
    Looking nice.

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