3D Printer Build - Page 6




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  1. #101
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
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    Montana
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    Default Re: 3D Printer Build

    I managed to make a plan with the Ramps Controller board house.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    The probe i have is inductive and not capacitive as i previously stated, so its not going to work on the heater bed, I need an alu heater bed with an integrated PCB heater.
    So I installed a temporary Z-Axis limit switch.

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    Things to do.
    Buy 1 flexible coupling
    Buy Alu Heater bed
    Print new cover Ramps house with more entrances for the wires.
    Manage the wires a bit better

    Then print stuff!!!!

    Configure the auto level.

    I also recorded it's very first dry run. I'm impressed with how silent it is. on the bench its a bit loud but once you lift it up its very silent. I'm sure if i place it on a rubber mat you wont hear a thing.


    Last edited by SBSP; 2018/05/23 at 07:56 PM.
    JK 3.8L 2010 Rubicon Manual 2 door

  2. #102
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
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    Default Re: 3D Printer Build

    Finished the RAMPS enclosure, the wires hanging out at the bottom still need to be taken care of. The thick black wire is the inductive sensor. I still need to figure out how to make it all work with Autoleveing

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Tomorrow I will be working on a mount for the PSU. Its just a normal 300Watt computer power supply that I salvaged from our scrap bin at work.

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    The drawing for it.

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    I also got a new heated bed. This one is Aluminum with an integrated PCB heater. And While I was at it I also got a Wanhao build surface. I wasted money on the red one installed on the printer. Need to find a different use for it now.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    JK 3.8L 2010 Rubicon Manual 2 door

  3. #103
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Montana
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    Default Re: 3D Printer Build

    Finally its done!, all that's left to do is to tweak it with marlin.

    Learnt lots.
    One comment that stood out, cant remember if it was this thread or one of the others, but if you are going to make your own 3d printer and you are new to it.

    DONT try and build one using your own design by just going out and buy parts. You will end up buying standard off the shelf stuff that does not quite fit together nicely or accurately.
    Sooner or later you will end up using workarounds that doesn't actually work around.
    And you will be wasting ALLOT of money, especially if you pay retail price for it. Quickly adding up in my head to get this printer complete I probably spent around R10 000.

    3K wasted on my own design, bought a 3D printer to complete it and spent money on more stuff to complete this Prusa MK2S.

    A better way would be to buy the 3d printed parts on ebay for around R800, Or ask a friend to print them for you. You can download all the parts from here.
    https://www.prusa3d.com/prusa-i3-printable-parts. You may want to consider building the MK3 instead of the MK2, the MK2's frame makes use of 8mm and 10mm threaded rod, which is dirt cheap, You wont pay more than R50 for the threaded rod.


    Have the frame cut locally.
    If you are from Pretoria, http://www.afriqcut.co.za/ (I highly recommend them) , unfortunately they don't deliver, you have to pickup.

    Bearings
    Instead of making use of 8uu linear bearings you can also print them out of PLA and they need no lubrication, You might have to replace them every year or so.

    Rods , I could not find a local place to but them cheap. So I paid full price for them. You need an agngle grinder to cut them. I tried cutting them with a hacksaw. After trying to cut it for a while, I barley scratched the surface, they are very very hard!

    I'm also glad I used a Computer PSU instead of the 12V ones you buy from electronic stores because they are downright DANGEROUS! The 220V sits on the same screw terminal as the 12V terminals, easy to touch it with a screw driver, and you are only protects from it with a flimsy plastic door. On my Anet it broke off. The PC PSU is a sealed unit with a propper 220V kettle cord inlet. Also the 12V out has over current protection. If shorted out it will simply shut down and you have to reset it. Not only that it has an ATX pin which allows you to ad a power switch safely on the 12V side. and Lastly they deliver more power.



    Some final pictures.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Thanks to all who contributed to my questions.
    JK 3.8L 2010 Rubicon Manual 2 door

  4. The Following User Says Thank You to SBSP For This Useful Post:


  5. #104
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Vredenburg
    Age
    40
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    1,999
    Thanked: 532

    Default Re: 3D Printer Build

    Quote Originally Posted by SBSP View Post
    Finally its done!, all that's left to do is to tweak it with marlin.

    Learnt lots.
    One comment that stood out, cant remember if it was this thread or one of the others, but if you are going to make your own 3d printer and you are new to it.

    DONT try and build one using your own design by just going out and buy parts. You will end up buying standard off the shelf stuff that does not quite fit together nicely or accurately.
    Sooner or later you will end up using workarounds that doesn't actually work around.
    And you will be wasting ALLOT of money, especially if you pay retail price for it. Quickly adding up in my head to get this printer complete I probably spent around R10 000.

    3K wasted on my own design, bought a 3D printer to complete it and spent money on more stuff to complete this Prusa MK2S.

    A better way would be to buy the 3d printed parts on ebay for around R800, Or ask a friend to print them for you. You can download all the parts from here.
    https://www.prusa3d.com/prusa-i3-printable-parts. You may want to consider building the MK3 instead of the MK2, the MK2's frame makes use of 8mm and 10mm threaded rod, which is dirt cheap, You wont pay more than R50 for the threaded rod.


    Have the frame cut locally.
    If you are from Pretoria, http://www.afriqcut.co.za/ (I highly recommend them) , unfortunately they don't deliver, you have to pickup.

    Bearings
    Instead of making use of 8uu linear bearings you can also print them out of PLA and they need no lubrication, You might have to replace them every year or so.

    Rods , I could not find a local place to but them cheap. So I paid full price for them. You need an agngle grinder to cut them. I tried cutting them with a hacksaw. After trying to cut it for a while, I barley scratched the surface, they are very very hard!

    I'm also glad I used a Computer PSU instead of the 12V ones you buy from electronic stores because they are downright DANGEROUS! The 220V sits on the same screw terminal as the 12V terminals, easy to touch it with a screw driver, and you are only protects from it with a flimsy plastic door. On my Anet it broke off. The PC PSU is a sealed unit with a propper 220V kettle cord inlet. Also the 12V out has over current protection. If shorted out it will simply shut down and you have to reset it. Not only that it has an ATX pin which allows you to ad a power switch safely on the 12V side. and Lastly they deliver more power.



    Some final pictures.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Click image for larger version. 

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    Thanks to all who contributed to my questions.
    Dit lyk regtig baie mooi.
    Dankie dat jy dit met ons gedeel het
    Ek wil graag vir my ook so een bou.

  6. #105
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Montana
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    Default Re: 3D Printer Build

    Quote Originally Posted by Karoo Klong View Post
    Dit lyk regtig baie mooi.
    Dankie dat jy dit met ons gedeel het
    Ek wil graag vir my ook so een bou.
    Plesier man. Dankie vir die ondersteuning ;-)
    JK 3.8L 2010 Rubicon Manual 2 door

  7. #106
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Montana
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    Thanked: 160

    Default Re: 3D Printer Build

    Printer is still going strong.

    However!, Using PLA wasn't the best idea. Some parts cracked under regular service I.E as cleaning out the nozzle or replacing the PTFE tubing. Especially the areas where there are screw nut traps. It simply just pulls the night right through it. I since change it using PETG which is much stronger than PLA.

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    I have been printing ALLOT! I have printed 3 sets of Prusa MK2s parts which I can use to replace parts. But the PETG seems to be holding up quite nicely.

    I'm currently printing an OpenRC Formula one car.

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    All of the black and red parts are printed using PETG except for the wheels, they were printed with TPU (Flexible material)
    The yellow is normal PLA. Far from complete but so far it's looking good.

    Its supposed to look like this.

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    Last edited by SBSP; 2018/08/06 at 07:19 PM.
    JK 3.8L 2010 Rubicon Manual 2 door

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