Gas fridge help needed.





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  1. #1
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    Default Gas fridge help needed.

    Hi guys

    I have n Ice craft fridge (gas/12v and 220V). The fridge is in good condition and works perfect. Except for the fancy electronics . It seem like the fridge had some kind of alarm/protection in when the power or gas failed. It might also have been a auto switch over ,when gas ran out the other supply will take over. This has all been disconnected when I got the fridge at the scrap yard.

    I would like to restore the fridge to its original glory but cannot find any info online.

    Does anyone have any experience with these? What is the green electric part? No part numbers on it!

  2. #2
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    Default Re: Gas fridge help needed.

    Manuals are online and maybe they still exist to ask tomorrow ?
    There is no task too simple for some people to complicate !



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    Default Re: Gas fridge help needed.

    The fridge is in good condition and it works perfect?
    Which part is working perfect?
    3Way fridges, are just that. They work in one of the applications only. Either gas or 12v or 220v. It is very easy to get the system to switch over automatically with 12v and 230 v. You use contactors or relays.The switch over from and to gas, automatically, is more complex and not advised at all. SAFETY!
    The green megafter is a suppressor or capacitor of some sort, connected to the thermostat that regulates the temperature. This is to stop interference with radios. (Not needed for operation)
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  4. #4
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    Default Re: Gas fridge help needed.

    Sorry for the confusion.
    I am a very technical person with advance knowledge of Electrical, electronics and refrigeration, so I understand and know all the basics.
    The previous owners connected a electrical lead directly to the 220V heating element, a lead with battery clamps directly to the 12V heating element. The fridge works perfectly in regards to cooling, so if you plug into 220V it cools, connect the 12V and it cools, connect the gas and it cools.
    Obviously with the direct connection on the elements there is no regulation via thermostat or any protection against multiple connections (ie. plug in 220V and 12V simultaneously)
    The fridge however does have all this protection and regulation already built into it, but ist not connected.

    I also thought that the green part was a suppressor of filter, but this would not make much sense to me as you are only supplying a element! What is also strange is the connection to this. There are 5 wires coming out of it. 3 of which is quite thick, so I would guess this would be for 220V or 12V connection. Then there are 2 thin control wires going to a plug which connects to the electronic controller. The controller send 5 volt to the green part.
    So, I thought this must me some kind of switching mechanism of sorts. The controller will monitor the gas and if the gas is on it wont allow the 220V to come through. I then assumed that the black cable will be common (neutral) and orange will be live. Once the controller sends 5V to the green part it will open internally and I should measure 220V on the purple wire. This in fact did not work and I cannot get any voltage out of the purple wire. The controller does however go into a fast beep once I connect it in this way.
    It might be that the green part is faulty, but I dont know how it works or operates.

  5. #5
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    Default Re: Gas fridge help needed.

    Quote Originally Posted by duncang View Post
    Manuals are online and maybe they still exist to ask tomorrow ?
    I cant seem to find any manuals. Do you perhaps know where I can find?

  6. #6
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    Default Re: Gas fridge help needed.

    Quote Originally Posted by Stekel View Post
    I cant seem to find any manuals. Do you perhaps know where I can find?
    Mr Google has one. Found it yesterday. Driving now..
    There is no task too simple for some people to complicate !



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  7. #7
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    Default Re: Gas fridge help needed.

    Quote Originally Posted by duncang View Post
    Mr Google has one. Found it yesterday. Driving now..
    I did a google, still cannot find it on various searches. Maybe my search key words are different from yours.
    If you get a chance please have a look and let me know.

  8. #8
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    Default Re: Gas fridge help needed.

    Quote Originally Posted by Stekel View Post
    Sorry for the confusion.
    I am a very technical person with advance knowledge of Electrical, electronics and refrigeration, so I understand and know all the basics.
    The previous owners connected a electrical lead directly to the 220V heating element, a lead with battery clamps directly to the 12V heating element. The fridge works perfectly in regards to cooling, so if you plug into 220V it cools, connect the 12V and it cools, connect the gas and it cools.
    Obviously with the direct connection on the elements there is no regulation via thermostat or any protection against multiple connections (ie. plug in 220V and 12V simultaneously)
    The fridge however does have all this protection and regulation already built into it, but ist not connected.

    I also thought that the green part was a suppressor of filter, but this would not make much sense to me as you are only supplying a element! What is also strange is the connection to this. There are 5 wires coming out of it. 3 of which is quite thick, so I would guess this would be for 220V or 12V connection. Then there are 2 thin control wires going to a plug which connects to the electronic controller. The controller send 5 volt to the green part.
    So, I thought this must me some kind of switching mechanism of sorts. The controller will monitor the gas and if the gas is on it wont allow the 220V to come through. I then assumed that the black cable will be common (neutral) and orange will be live. Once the controller sends 5V to the green part it will open internally and I should measure 220V on the purple wire. This in fact did not work and I cannot get any voltage out of the purple wire. The controller does however go into a fast beep once I connect it in this way.
    It might be that the green part is faulty, but I dont know how it works or operates.
    HI there, we're you ever able to get yours fixed. I found the same one which has not been working so I am trying to find the problem.

  9. #9
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    Default Re: Gas fridge help needed.

    Hi,

    Supprescraft is a business that still trades in Booysens. Send them a pick, read below first.

    The steel unit that the suppressor (in this instance is just another name for a capacative / resistive circuit) is connected to is the thermal control unit. These units operate on a gas filled capillary tube which activates a diaphragm located in that little steel box. The diaphragm in turn operates a mechanical contacts. At 12V these units I believe would have a simple internal spark protection given the low voltage.

    At 220V as switching is generally done on the "live wire" it is both common and good practice to quench the spark that exists whenever the relay opens and closes, in order to prevent arcing and then the burning of the relay contacts which results in malfunction. The three larger diameter wires are generally L/N in / L/N out and E. The thinner two wires are clearly not for carrying the type of current drawn by the heating elements and I would strongly suggest that these are for a pilot light that indicates when the element is on or off.

    This suppressor unit would generally be connected in parallel with the power. Either way your heaters are not connected via this temperature controller so there is a bypass of the system.

    I suspect that the Fridge was originally a two way fridge, gas and 12V. This is borne out by the label on the front which shows what appears to be gas and battery only. I think the suppressor could have been added later to try cope with the 220V but they could not get it to work. I think this component is an afterthought.

    Could you post a picture of the "other end" so I can trace the wires connecting to the heater/s.

    Questions.

    1. Have you tried on gas and if so does the fridge chill?
    2. Are there two cartridge elements fitted or a dual element? i.e. one element with three wires coming out?
    3. Do you want all three modes operational or will you use only two?
    4. Have you checked that the element have resistance or are they open circuit.

    If the elements are not shot we can easily connect the 220V and see if the refrigeration unit works before throwing money at this. We first need to see which is the 220V if not clearly marked.

    In the meantime I want you to rotate the fridge. 3 hours on the one side, 3 hours on the top, 3 hours on the other side and then return to vertical normal position. This to flush out the ammonia solution that may be trapped in the pockets of the cooling system and to dissolve any crystals that may have built up in the system.

    Send me your mail address via PM and I will respond. Then send the pics I asked for to the mail and I will make you a wiring diagram so that you can get this puppy working.
    Last edited by Andrew Leigh; 2019/03/24 at 09:35 AM.

  10. #10
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    Default Re: Gas fridge help needed.

    How would such a fridge/freezer cope in the Kgalagadi with outside temps of about 33C?

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  11. #11
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    Default Re: Gas fridge help needed.

    will be fine.

    The thermostats need upgrading for best effect but that requires power, 12V would be fine to drive a controller.

    I made a circuit years ago that ran off 12V to stop the extremes of the existing mechanical themostat. Mine was =-7 degrees so on a hot day the thermostat is cranked dfown and at night the salad stuff would freeze. My controller did +-0.5 deg which was extreme so I cranked it back to +-1 deg. Made an incredible difference to the performance of the fridge.

    I am sure sure you can buy controllers that operate with thermistors and replace the mechanical one.

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