DC to DC Charger 20Amp + Solar MPPT available from 4x4Direct

[pietpetoors]

We have stock (for now) of WRND's popular 20 Amp DC to DC chargers with built in MPPT controller.

This unit also compensates for new vehicles which have trickle chargers.
Buy it online at http://www.4x4direct.co.za/dc-to-dc-...olar-mppt.html
OR
at any of our stores, Click here for directions



Product Specs:

At WRND we have developed a dual battery charger with solar MPPT in one small unit for the outdoor 4x4 and leisure market. The WDB1220B will take care of all your charging and maintenance needs. Designed, manufactured and supported locally in South Africa it is a product that will stand up to the challenges of our harsh environment. As a standard the unit comes with a 2 year warranty.
The WRND dual battery charger uses the starting or primary battery of the vehicle to charge the secondary utility battery via its internal DC to DC converter when the engine is running. The secondary battery will be charged to 14.4V even if the alternator only supplies 13.5V or even less. Once the battery has charged to 14.4V the charger will relax and float the battery at 13.7V. If the engine is turned off charging will stop once the primary battery settles at 12.8V. At this time the WDB1220B will start charging the secondary battery from a solar panel if available. Charging from a PV panel is done using MPPT (Maximum Power Point Tracking) technology to ensure optimal throughput from the panel to the battery.
Current is electronically limited to 20A which allows for much simpler installation in terms of wiring. We recommend placing the unit close to the secondary battery and using 4mm2 wire in most instances. Solder lugs to wire ends for secure connections.
Please contact us for more information or if you have any questions. Contact info on the right hand side above.

Parameters:
Primary battery voltage for charging: 12.5V - 14.5V
Sec battery Boost voltage: 14.4V
Sec battery Float voltage: 13.7V
Max charge current: 20A
Solar input voltage: 12V - 40V (recommendation: use 12V or 24V panel 50W - 250W)
Ultra low power standby mode: 12.5V (primary battery voltage if no solar input)
Standby mode current draw: >0.005A

Features:

Over voltage protection: standby, wait for correct voltage
Under voltage protection: off or standby, wait for correct voltage
Over temperature protection: limit current or off until temperature decreases
Connections: 4mm2 silicon wire, 10cm long
Full metal enclosure with mounting holes
Net Weight: 0.45kg
Dimentions: 117mm (W) x 130mm (L) x 37mm (H

[Sneaky Pete]

I have a bluetooth app on my phone to monitor the battery status, plus you can track the charging history. I mentioned before that Louis At 4x4 Direct helped me out showing me how the WRND system only kicks in at 12.9V. What was interesting to actually see on the app, is how with the freezer running it was managing on the WRND float and then when the freezer pushed the voltage down to 12.9 the WRND kicked back in for a bit, got the voltage up and then the voltage settled down to float again. The squiggley bit at the beginning of the graph was when I was connecting it up the solar.

[rdp]

What device and app are you using to monitor your battery?

[mikeml]

From the product specs above: "Solder lugs to wire ends for secure connections."

There is controversy about this. Industry standard is to only crimp. Solder joints can crack. I have only ever crimped and have never had problems.

I suppose soldered joints are the best option when a proper crimping tool is not available.

And these crimping tools found in many DIY packs are not proper crimping tools:


Sorry to derail the thread. This DC DC charger is excellent value for money, and from reports on this forum suggest that it does what it claims to do.

[mikeml]

I have a bluetooth app on my phone to monitor the battery status, plus you can track the charging history. I mentioned before that Louis At 4x4 Direct helped me out showing me how the WRND system only kicks in at 12.9V. What was interesting to actually see on the app, is how with the freezer running it was managing on the WRND float and then when the freezer pushed the voltage down to 12.9 the WRND kicked back in for a bit, got the voltage up and then the voltage settled down to float again. The squiggley bit at the beginning of the graph was when I was connecting it up the solar.

With the alternator running the voltage should not dip this much with only 4 or 5A draw, suggesting that possibly some cable size is too small? But maybe it was the high freezer startup current which dipped the voltage momentarily to 12.9V?

[New]

Ordered one and delivered in less than 24 hours! Very commendable service!

[hgbosch]

From the product specs above: "Solder lugs to wire ends for secure connections."

There is controversy about this. Industry standard is to only crimp. Solder joints can crack. I have only ever crimped and have never had problems.

I suppose soldered joints are the best option when a proper crimping tool is not available.

And these crimping tools found in many DIY packs are not proper crimping tools:


Sorry to derail the thread. This DC DC charger is excellent value for money, and from reports on this forum suggest that it does what it claims to do.

I use a ratchet crimping tool that works really well and never had any of the crimps come loose.

[Sneaky Pete]

With the alternator running the voltage should not dip this much with only 4 or 5A draw, suggesting that possibly some cable size is too small? But maybe it was the high freezer startup current which dipped the voltage momentarily to 12.9V?

This was with the solar panel providing power and that early in the morning and the panel mounted flat on the roof of the caravan it was only a bit of solar power. Yes it was the freezer that caused the dip I was watching the graph and could hear the freezer kicking in and out which is the small dips and then a big one when I opened the freezer to put something in.

Sorry away at the moment but will revert with details of the Bluetooth device.

[Paul#25]

I use a ratchet crimping tool that works really well and never had any of the crimps come loose.

That is the correct crimper for insulated spade fitting and joints. The colour code on the jaw makes it easy. There is a different crimper for the uninsulated terminals. It folds the ears in to secure the wire. I've tried to upload a photo of the crimper but the site won't let me.

[Paul#25]

That is the correct crimper for insulated spade fitting and joints. The colour code on the jaw makes it easy. There is a different crimper for the uninsulated terminals. It folds the ears in to secure the wire. I've tried to upload a photo of the crimper but the site won't let me.

Second attempt at loading the photos.

[hatjohan]

From the product specs above: "Solder lugs to wire ends for secure connections."

There is controversy about this. Industry standard is to only crimp. Solder joints can crack. I have only ever crimped and have never had problems.

I suppose soldered joints are the best option when a proper crimping tool is not available.

And these crimping tools found in many DIY packs are not proper crimping tools:


Sorry to derail the thread. This DC DC charger is excellent value for money, and from reports on this forum suggest that it does what it claims to do.

And proper crimping tools are cheap enough.

[hgbosch]

Second attempt at loading the photos.

Yes!

Got that one too

[Paul Dold]

Thanks for posting!
What brand is it?
Price?
Where did you buy?

Second attempt at loading the photos.

[Paul#25]

Thanks for posting!
What brand is it?
Price?
Where did you buy?

They are available from AC-DC and good auto-electrical suppliers like Breno Parts.
The one that I posted and the other type I have came from AC-DC a few years ago. Incidentally this is the correct crimper that is needed for the connectors inside the MC4 plugs used on solar panel systems.