Ethiopia: From Nairobi to the Bale Mountains - Page 3





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  1. #41
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    Default Re: Ethiopia: From Nairobi to the Bale Mountains

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    Early morning view from Bale Mountain Lodge

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    The Sanetti Plateau, Bale Mountains

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    Giant Lobelias (Lobelia rhyncopetalum) on the Sanetti Plateau

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    An Ethiopian Wolf (Canis simensis) hunting on the Sanetti Plateau

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    Giant Heathers (Erica arborea) on the southern slopes of the Bale Mountains

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    Near the village of Rira, southern slopes of the Bale Mountains

  2. #42
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    Default Re: Ethiopia: From Nairobi to the Bale Mountains

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    Back through the Harenna Forest to Dolo Mena

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    Buying fuel in Dolo Mena

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    Some of the obstacles on Ethiopian roads

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    A typical Ethiopian farm in southern Ethiopia

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    Battling through the roadworks at the Ethiopian town of Moyale with the new Kenyan border controls in the distance

  3. #43
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    Default Re: Ethiopia: From Nairobi to the Bale Mountains

    Looks like a fantastic trip! New food for thought, asante sana for that.
    24 hours in a day.... 24 beer in a case.... Coincidence?
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  4. #44
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    Default Re: Ethiopia: From Nairobi to the Bale Mountains

    WW what a great read and you make it all sound so comforting. All those sweet sounding town/village names! Then the potential for birding means I will need to get educated. This trip added to a trip similar to your 6 night Kenyan trip is being added to my planned extended trip up north.

    By he way what is a vehicle "logbook"? A you know we in RSA have registration docs.

    Once again thank you so very much for keeping me enthralled for the past hour or two.

  5. #45
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    Default Re: Ethiopia: From Nairobi to the Bale Mountains

    Karibu sana, Tron.

    The vehicle logbook is, indeed, the registration documents, but we have a Kenyan registered vehicle and it is only for them that the logbook (registration document) needs to be lodged with Kenyan customs at the border. You would be travelling with a Carnet and therefore that is not necessary.

  6. #46
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    Default Re: Ethiopia: From Nairobi to the Bale Mountains

    Quote Originally Posted by Wazungu Wawili View Post
    Karibu sana, Tron.

    The vehicle logbook is, indeed, the registration documents, but we have a Kenyan registered vehicle and it is only for them that the logbook (registration document) needs to be lodged with Kenyan customs at the border. You would be travelling with a Carnet and therefore that is not necessary.
    Thanx for such a speedily response.

    Hlala khashle, mina azi bhuja manje.

    Stay well I am coming soon.

  7. #47
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    Default Re: Ethiopia: From Nairobi to the Bale Mountains

    Acute nostalgia! Thanks for the lovely pics.
    Stanley Weakley.
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    OR
    http://www.4x4community.co.za/forum/...e16?highlight= from post 315.

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  9. #48
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    Default Re: Ethiopia: From Nairobi to the Bale Mountains

    Wonderful trip report- like so many of your others. I am trying to work out a way to get there from the UAE, where I live. We are looking at shipping our 4x4 from Salalah or perhaps southern Saudi Arabia and I wondered if you have any advice on the best destination. Ideally we would go to Djibouti and then cross to Ethiopia, before heading south. I realise that your trip there was some time ago but I would be very grateful for any opinions- even resources/companies/people you might point me at. I'm not at all sure what our timing would be but we need to dream a little during these Covid days... Thanks for any reply. Rory

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  11. #49
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    Default Re: Ethiopia: From Nairobi to the Bale Mountains

    Quote Originally Posted by rorywg View Post
    Wonderful trip report- like so many of your others. I am trying to work out a way to get there from the UAE, where I live. We are looking at shipping our 4x4 from Salalah or perhaps southern Saudi Arabia and I wondered if you have any advice on the best destination. Ideally we would go to Djibouti and then cross to Ethiopia, before heading south. I realise that your trip there was some time ago but I would be very grateful for any opinions- even resources/companies/people you might point me at. I'm not at all sure what our timing would be but we need to dream a little during these Covid days... Thanks for any reply. Rory
    Thank you for your nice comments. Yes, we all need to do some dreaming during these terrible times.

    I don’t have any experience of shipping into Djibouti, but I do know that Djibouti is a big shipping hub (trans-shipping as well as being Ethiopia’s lifeline to the world). It would all depend on how good your French is and how good your shipping agent is.

    I do have experience of importing a Land Rover into Kenya when it was shipped into Mombasa. At least in Mombasa, English is the language. However, for shipping into Mombasa (Djibouti may well be the same), you would need a Carnet de Passage for the vehicle. I presume that you can get a CdP in Dubai?

    As for shipping lines, agents etc, I’m afraid I can’t be any help, but I am sure there are a number of people in Dubai who could point you in the right direction. I would imagine that the easiest way would be to ship from Dubai to Mombasa. At least in both those places, you could stay somewhere congenial whilst you wrestle with the bureaucracy!

    Best wishes and stay safe.
    Last edited by Wazungu Wawili; 2020/06/07 at 01:31 PM.

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  13. #50
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    Default Re: Ethiopia: From Nairobi to the Bale Mountains

    Hello- thank you for the reply. Yes- I had looked at Mombasa and that may prove the simplest solution, although a little less romantic! Did you do a one-time shipment and leave your vehicle in Kenya- I think you are based in UK from your details on the forum?

    I'll keep ferreting away and will be sure to post any trip reports that come out of it all. I'm very conscious, as you have rightly pointed out elsewhere, that many of us are takers rather than givers when it comes to these forums. The extraordinary generosity you and others show in sharing your experience is noted, and hugely appreciated.

    Likewise- keep washing your hands!

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  15. #51
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    Default Re: Ethiopia: From Nairobi to the Bale Mountains

    Quote Originally Posted by rorywg View Post
    Hello- thank you for the reply. Yes- I had looked at Mombasa and that may prove the simplest solution, although a little less romantic! Did you do a one-time shipment and leave your vehicle in Kenya- I think you are based in UK from your details on the forum?

    I'll keep ferreting away and will be sure to post any trip reports that come out of it all. I'm very conscious, as you have rightly pointed out elsewhere, that many of us are takers rather than givers when it comes to these forums. The extraordinary generosity you and others show in sharing your experience is noted, and hugely appreciated.

    Likewise- keep washing your hands!
    When we shipped a Land Rover into Kenya that was in a previous life. We were living in Kenya and as Kenyan residents we could import a new vehicle into Kenya. When we left that posting (in my home country), we sold that Land Rover to Kenyan friends. So, yes it was a one-time shipment and import into Kenya.

    We regretted selling it... so, when we retired, we bought another Land Rover in the UK, kitted it out, and drove it all the way to Cape Town (and then back to Kenya). That second Land Rover is now a Kenyan vehicle (we imported it into Kenya at huge cost and hassle at the end of our overland trip), but it still belongs to us. When we drove up to Ethiopia and the Bale Mountains, the Land Rover was a Kenyan vehicle.

    My husband has been to Djibouti and he says it is not in any way romantic. It is hot, dusty, sweaty, and very expensive. I have heard it called the “armpit of Africa”. There aren’t many hotels in Djibouti and, those there are, are extortionately expensive. There was an overlander called Dan Grec who wanted to go to Djibouti on his south-north trip and drove in and out from Ethiopia for a few days. You will find his trip reports on the forum and also a link to his blog. You will also find excerpts from our blog for Ethiopia from our 2013-2014 big overland trip.

    Very best wishes for your dreaming and planning, and shout if you need any more information on Kenya and East Africa.
    Last edited by Wazungu Wawili; 2020/06/07 at 02:03 PM.

  16. #52
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    Default Re: Ethiopia: From Nairobi to the Bale Mountains

    I can't comment on the shipping logistics, but I can comment on Djibouti - it is a horrible place. Admittedly, I have only spent 48 hours there, but that was 48 too many - it was in 1998, and I was on a two-week low-flying trip across Africa to Zurich in a 50-year-old DC4 to commemorate the 50th anniversary of the Berlin Airlift (I was on board as a photo-journalist, not as crew...) Here's the top of the very long (nearly 3,000 word piece) I wrote about the trip:


    THERE are very, very few places in the world to which I will never return unless I have to. Djibouti is one of them.


    Wilfred Thesiger agrees with me. On May, 20, 1934, not long after his 23rd birthday, Thesiger reached Djibouti at the end of his first major expedition, an epic trek through Ethiopia's Danakil Desert, one of the worst places on earth. "Jibuti was an unromantic seaport in an uniniviting landscape ... I spent three days waiting for a boat to Marseilles, and I did not find a congenial soul in the town. The Governor summoned me for an interview ... (a) corpulent, pompous and short-tempered little man."


    We landed there through a mischance of geography and politics. Djibouti is a mischance of geography and politics. We checked into the Sheraton Hotel. The foyer is a monument to kitsch, gilt chandeliers hang over a garish foyer festooned with plastic flowers. The lifts were out of order and a sickly smell of Harpic and an overdose of cheap and nasty air freshener hung over the building. All the windows were sealed.


    I opened the door of my mega-dollar room, and a rat ran into the corridor where Nordic-looking refugees from the ugly little border war between Eritrea and Ethiopia were trying to pacify squalling kids who'd had enough of being deprived of their computer games. A migratory herd of cockroaches tried to escape out the window but couldn't - it was sealed with rivets and the air conditioning wasn't working. I turned on the shower and the hand basin filled with water. Luckily I had a Leatherman and managed to fix the problem. Then I nearly slashed my foot open on the R5 coin sized hole in the bath tub. There was no cold water.


    Outside it's 40degC and the humidity is around 100%. "Jussis, it's lekker cool today," says Ronnie the Flying Spanner. "Last time we were here it was 47 degrees and the humidity was so heavy you nearly drowned every time you breathed in."


    Wrap on a kikoi and head for the pool, perched on a headland just above the high tide mark on the Gulf of Aden. In the foyer, two French Foreign Legion military policemen were scanning the bars for errant legionnaires. They looked nasty, so before they could Shanghai me, I scuttled down the stairs to the pool and dived in. ####. The pool's heated, the water hotter than the air outside, air that stinks of rotting seaweed and second hand diesel. So I order a beer. A can of Heineken costs R36. The locals are unspeakably rude. Some of our party go to the market and flee when they get stoned.


    The hotel from hell.


    But the trip from heaven.


    I have been on many journeys in my life. This was one of the most extraordinary of them all.


    For 15 days we flew across Africa and the Middle East to Europe in an unpressurized 50-year-old, graceful and beautiful DC4 Skymaster. Sometimes we flew as low as 100 feet above ground level, sometimes at 500 feet, and once or twice had to rise to above 10 000 feet to get over high mountain ranges or because of military restricted air space. For the organizers, South African Airways Historic Flights division, the journey was a logistical nightmare. Six thousand litres of fuel had to be shipped into Djibouti. Landing rights and overfly permission had to be negotiated with countries in a state of military and political tension - Syria, Somalia, Ethiopia, Lebanon, the Balkans.


    And then, as we left the Ngorongoro Crater, Eritrea and Ethiopia went to war, threatening to kibosh the whole journey. With Eritrean Migs bombing the Ethiopian town of Mekele and the Ethiopians bombing the Eritrean capital of Asmara, the region looked set to explode. Our flight path took us within 300km of Mekele. Frantic negotiations ensued, and the Ethiopians guaranteed safe passage, but we played safe and took a dog leg over northern Somalia.
    Tony Weaver

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    Previously Land Rover 1968 SII, 1969 SIIA, 1973 SIII, 1983 Toyota HiLux 2litre, 2006 Land Rover Freelander TD4 HSE.

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  18. #53
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    Default Re: Ethiopia: From Nairobi to the Bale Mountains

    What a fascinating story from Tony of a great adventure in 1998. Thank you, Tony.

    My husband has elaborated on Djibouti. He says there are French bistros downtown serving delicious food, and there are more hotels there than when Tony was in Djibouti. However, the hotels are extremely expensive.

    The hosting of foreign military bases is an important part of the Djibouti economy. The French forces, of course, but also a huge US military base, as well as Chinese, Japanese and Italian military bases.

    The Chinese are also building a huge new port in Djibouti.

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    Default Re: Ethiopia: From Nairobi to the Bale Mountains

    Quote Originally Posted by rorywg View Post
    Hello- thank you for the reply. Yes- I had looked at Mombasa and that may prove the simplest solution, although a little less romantic! Did you do a one-time shipment and leave your vehicle in Kenya- I think you are based in UK from your details on the forum?

    I'll keep ferreting away and will be sure to post any trip reports that come out of it all. I'm very conscious, as you have rightly pointed out elsewhere, that many of us are takers rather than givers when it comes to these forums. The extraordinary generosity you and others show in sharing your experience is noted, and hugely appreciated.

    Likewise- keep washing your hands!
    I believe there is a ferry from Mecca to Port Sudan, so you might be able to avoid shipping all together. I don't know what the visa restrictions for passage through Saudi is, but might be worth a look. You'll might find some stories of a few successful (and unsuccessful) passages on that ferry here: https://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hubb/

    @WW - I have taken to reading old reports on the forum as a substitute for planning our next trip, thank you so much for sharing your trips to these lesser traveled destinations. I am also dusting off my neglected blog, so hopefully some updates from our trips, though old and very late, coming soon.

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  21. #55
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    Default Re: Ethiopia: From Nairobi to the Bale Mountains

    Karibu, Caldriver.

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