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Thank you, Stan, for being such an interested follower of our travels. Perhaps one day we can go on a trip together.
I have to say, I was astounded and horrified when you camped in a quarry not that far from Moyale in northern Kenya on your trip. To us, that is the complete no-go zone - that is/was shifta country and, in the Somali part of Kenya. But I was assured by my contacts in Ethiopia that north of Moyale on the Ethiopian side was much, much safer to wild camp than south of Moyale on the Kenyan side and hence we wild camped near El Sod. Somalia is actually a long way east of El Sod and Moyale.
The place you really don't want to spend any time in is Moyale. There have been recently and, unfortunately, will continue to be attacks in Moyale from Al Shabaab and their affiliates. This is one of the reasons that we wild camped near El Sod which is 130 kms north of Moyale and whizzed down to Marsabit. The Kenyan Army and Police have a strong presence in northern Kenya, but they themselves are the target for attacks from Somalia-based Al Shabaab. The main no-go zones, at present, are Mandera, Wajir and Garissa all of which are near or on the Somalia border. Having said this, the shifta of old in Kenya, at least, were not radicalised Al Shabaab, but the "normal" bandits found in many desert border areas. Today, it is all a different scenario. We, however, never felt uneasy or threatened.
The State of Emergency in Ethiopia had no impact on our travels through southern Ethiopia. The Addis-based people we met in Bale Mountain Lodge said all was quiet and their lives in Addis are completely normal except for a fuel shortage. One of the people we met worked for the ICRC so he travelled to interesting and remote places in Ethiopia. Politically, all seems calm at the moment.
We thought the Bale Mountains were completely different to the Simiens. The scenery in the Simiens is more dramatic than in the Bale Mountains, but the Bale Mountains are more remote, and less developed and populated. Chalk and cheese bar the incredible Afro-alpine moorlands and peaks. But we trekked for 10 days through the Simiens and we only drove through the Bales - this made our experiences in the two places somewhat different. We loved both mountain ranges.
We spent a further five nights camping in northern Kenya - Marsabit NP, Sera Conservancy and Samburu National Reserve. I am going to continue posting our adventures on this thread, but will post a link to it in the Kenya section of the forum. Do you think this is good idea?
Best salaams to you both.
Last edited by Wazungu Wawili; 2017/02/14 at 10:22 PM.
Stan, our experience of the two mountain ranges is that they are completely different - Bale is a massif that you approach from the plains below, and we hiked, horse trekked and drove the massif, including getting snowed in one night on the Sanetti Plateau when we were wild camping after getting stuck. Our main aim there was the birding and the fly fishing and neither disappointed.
Simien you actually drive to an altitude close to the top of the range, and then hike/mule trek across the edge of the escarpment looking down onto the most amazing vistas in the Tekezze Valley down below. You actually look down on lammergeiers soaring below you. The equivalent in South Africa would be trekking along the edge of the top of the Drakensberg looking down. We spent seven days mule trekking the Simiens, eating in tukuls and camping in our expedition tent because the fleas were so bad in the tukuls, and only pulled out because the rains came early and the Jinbar came down in flood and we had to get out fast.
One of the best adventures we have had!
Tony Weaver
2010 Mitsubishi Pajero Sport 3.2l diesel
Previously
1991 Land Rover 110 Hi-Line 3.5l V8; 1968 2.25l Land Rover SII; 1969 2.6l SIIA; 1973 2.25l SIII
1983 Toyota HiLux 2l 4x4
WW, a fantastic trip you two have had. For most of us here on this forum, those northern African countries feel most remote and inaccessible, so reports like this are even more intriguing.
By all means continue posting about this latest African ramblings of yours here in this thread, makes sense for the whole trip to be described under single thread. And it certanly is a good idea to post a link to this thread also in Kenyan section, might come handy when searching Kenyan subforum for specific Kenya-related matters.
24 hours in a day.... 24 beer in a case.... Coincidence?
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My blog: Our African Ramblings (https://safaribug.wordpress.com/)
WW and Tony, my query re comparing the two mountain reserves was in part purely provocative. I agree with what was stated by the pair of you. Tony I think you would be disappointed to find how busy the Simiens are these days. There are huge groups of hikers and their pack ponies traversing that area. The campsites are a mess! I preferred Bale although it lacks the Geladas and Ibex. There are the Wolves to see aplenty and the rare birds are fascinating. It is also far wilder and seldom visited. Unfortunately WW's trip was curtailed and she was only able to visit a small section of Bale. The Webb Valley remains astounding. The Simien peaks are more statuesque though.
I think a link either way between your recent posts would be good. The more you post the better.
I did realize that our quarry campsite south of Moyale was risky but we had no choice and the road construction gangs were still about and there were soldiers encamped along the road, guarding the road builders. As you did, we traveled some distance off the main road and this was in the late evening and we did not light a fire. Your local and background knowledge of the security risks would have stood us in good stead.
Indeed another long trip in the future is in my plans, but I am not all that confident that my better half will buy into it for herself, perhaps in time? At present our domestic situation is not good for both of us to be away for any appreciable length of time.
Last edited by Stan Weakley; 2017/02/15 at 12:23 AM.
Stanley Weakley.
Toyota Landcruiser 76SW 4,2L diesel.
“Great journeys are memorable not so much for what you saw, but for where you camped”.
Trans East Africa 2015/2016 Trip report https://www.4x4community.co.za/forum...-6-SLOW-DONKEY
OR
http://www.4x4community.co.za/forum/...e16?highlight= from post 315.
Stanley Weakley.
Toyota Landcruiser 76SW 4,2L diesel.
“Great journeys are memorable not so much for what you saw, but for where you camped”.
Trans East Africa 2015/2016 Trip report https://www.4x4community.co.za/forum...-6-SLOW-DONKEY
OR
http://www.4x4community.co.za/forum/...e16?highlight= from post 315.
Hi WW,
What an adventure! As Ortelius, have said it will be quite difficult, for various reasons, for us ( "Europeans") to take such a trip. The most important would be local knowledge and wise boldness. Your reports and Stan´s definitely enriches this forum. We did/ do have plans to visit Ethiopia, that have been put on hold for the last two years due to the situation. Nevertheless never thought of doing a self-drive!.Maybe one day, who knows?
Looking forward for your Northern Kenya part.
Congratulations/ Hongera!
Asante sana!
AP
“If you want to go into the bush, take a Ford. If you want to get back, take a Landcruiser!”
Series 80 'Cruiser GX Diesel 1996
Cooper ST Maxx 265/75/16 tyres;
ARB bullbar; 9000kg T-Max winch; Outback roofrack; Double fuel tank; Outback Extreme spare wheel carrier x 2; Air Spring boosters; Racor diesel filter; NL dual battery set-up; 2 x 100w solar panels; Big Country gullwings, Front Runner drawer system; Stofpad 4x4 drop-down fridge slide; NL 78-litre double door fridge/freezer; NL 60-litre freezer; Eeziawn rooftop tent; Eeziawn awning.
SWAMBO: Honda CRV 2.2 Diesel
Previously: '98 Defender 110 HT TDi, Landy SIII S/W, Hilux D/C 4x4,
Isuzu 2,3 4x4, Isuzu 2,0 4x4, Isuzu 1600 4x4, Chev Nomad, Cheetah beach buggy!
Asante sana, Ortelius! Ethiopia is a truly astonishing country - it is like nowhere else in the world. But it is a tough place to self-drive - mostly because of the road conditions, the high population density particularly in the Highland areas, people and livestock all over the roads, and the lack of places to camp. If one is very well organised beforehand - as we were on our north-south trip in November 2013 - and do bookings for hotels/lodges, then self-driving in Ethiopia is not quite so stressful. Flying in to Addis - then flying to Lalibela, Gondar or Axum - and doing the incredible sights in the north and Tigray is not so very difficult or expensive. It certainly is cheaper than self-driving not only for one's wallet, but also one's nerves! But the rewards of self-driving as we did both in 2013 and this year are immense and quite an adventure to remember in our old age!
Thank you, apfac. As you say, it would be difficult for others to do such a trip - unless they were north-south overlanding in their own vehicle. As I said in my reply to Ortelius, it would be easier and cheaper to fly to Addis and then on to Lalibela, Gondar and Axum to see the incredible sights in the north and Tigray. It would also be easier on the nerves to have a car and driver to take you around. Local knowledge and local contacts help enormously too.
Thank you, Stan.
The campsites for trekking in the Simiens are only really busy up to Chinnek - most people only go on a 3-5 day trek. Once away from Chinnek and heading towards Ras Dashen, we had the campsites to ourselves (they are not accessible by road). So, for the last 6 days of our trek, we didn't see any other trekkers. But you are right, the facilities are absolutely dire. But it is mostly the fault of the trekkers who just go to the loo anywhere and everywhere (probably because the long-drops are indescribable). But the rewards of the 10 day circular trek we did in the Simiens (finishing at Adi Arkay in the lowlands) were immense - it was tough trekking, but the scenery was out of this world.
Yes, I had heard this. As you know, we trekked the Simiens just after the civil war, and saw no other trekkers in seven days. The park authorities insisted we took two armed guides who knew where the land mines were. Wazungu Wawili, thanks again for a great report - I agree with you that Ethiopia is one of the most fascinating countries in Africa and elsewhere. Hard work, but plenty of rewards.
Tony Weaver
2010 Mitsubishi Pajero Sport 3.2l diesel
Previously
1991 Land Rover 110 Hi-Line 3.5l V8; 1968 2.25l Land Rover SII; 1969 2.6l SIIA; 1973 2.25l SIII
1983 Toyota HiLux 2l 4x4
The rest of this report covers six nights in northern Kenya.
- Marsabit National Park
- Sera Conservancy
- Samburu and Buffalo Springs National Reserve
Day 11: Henry’s Place, Marsabit to Lake Paradise, Marsabit National Park
Distance: 30 kms
We had a leisurely start to the day – bacon and eggs for breakfast, and a shower. But we were surprised that the Kiwis and the Finn - who were all heading north to Moyale and Ethiopia (and we had told them about the two-hour lunch break) – didn’t set off until after 0900. Everyone does things differently…
We, however, were on the road back into the centre of Marsabit shortly after 0900, restocked with Kenyan shillings from the Equity Bank ATM, and did some shopping of basic supplies in a duka. We were pleased that we had found the beer depot the day before and had stocked up with Tusker.
Having done all that, we headed up the hill to the Ahmed Gate into Marsabit National Park. I have been trying to get to Lake Paradise for 47 years – last time we slid sideways down a muddy track in a Land Rover and had to retreat – but this time I was determined to get there. Our patience, however, was tested. That very day – 1 February 2017 – a new system had been put into place for the payment of the park fees. We had to go to the nearby KCB Bank to pay the exact amount directly into the Kenya Wildlife Services’ account. The KWS lady at Ahmed Gate wrote down the amount and the account numbers – yes, there were two accounts that needed to be credited: one for the US dollar park and camping fees, and one for the Kenyan shillings’ vehicle fees and a map. So, we drove round to the KCB Bank and waited in a queue. When we got to the teller, we were told there was another three-digit code needed in order to process our payment and we hadn’t been told that vital piece of information. We asked to see the bank manager, rang the bell on the door into the back office and, when no one answered, marched in. The bank manager was a delightful young man, we shook hands and introduced ourselves, he brought chairs for us to sit on, listened to our woes, phoned his friend who obviously was the Warden of Marsabit National Park, took our cash dollars and Kenyan shillings, took them to the teller and returned a few minutes with the required paperwork. [For others who might want to visit this gem of a park, one cannot pay by card at the KCB Bank: cash is king.] We thanked the manager for his help and drove back to Ahmed Gate. Here the young KWS gate attendant took our two receipts, wrote out and stamped the tickets, and we were free to go.
Many people have never heard of Marsabit National Park, but this gem of a park was gazetted in 1962 and covers some 1,554 km². As the Kenya Wildlife Services say in their literature, it is “a remote montane paradise located in the burning wastes of Kenya’s rugged northern regions, Marsabit NP protects the massive extinct volcano of Mount Marsabit … and is a cool and green forested realm often swathed in mist.” We agree - it is like an oasis.
Marsabit, and the surrounding area, was renowned for an ancient dynasty of elephants famous for their huge tusks: one bull called Ahmed had presidential protection and constant surveillance and, when he died, his tusks were found to weigh over 300 kg. Ahmed is now stuffed and on display in the National Museum in Nairobi. We hoped his legacy lives on, but feared that human pressure had taken its toll.
Once through the gate, the rough dirt track climbs up to the rim of one of the numerous craters through lovely forest, the enormous trees clothed in orchids and lichens. The first crater we descended into, Gof Sokorta Diko, was where we had slid down sideways some 30 years ago. At the bottom, is the still-functioning Marsabit Lodge overlooking a small crater lake. We climbed out of that crater, and about 10 kms of reasonably-tough driving later, we arrived at the viewpoint overlooking Lake Paradise. It is indeed worth the journey. We had paid to camp at the special campsite at Lake Paradise, and we wound our way round the crater rim and down to a vaguely visible track along the lakeshore. At the end of the track, we found the special campsite: it is, indeed, special and Lake Paradise is, indeed, a paradise. Those old wardens knew how to place campsites: facing east, with ample shade, an endless supply of firewood in the vicinity, and a good view. On the foreshore of the lake grazed buffalo and the rare and endangered Grevy’s zebra.
We set up camp under large forest trees, had lunch, a siesta, a cup of tea and then went out for an exploration. Although the map shows a track going around the crater rim this is no longer passable, and this mountain park is not designed for going on game drives. We did, however, drive down the track which we would be taking the following day. It was rough and sections required low range and diff-lock. When we could, we turned around and diff-locked our way back up the mountain. There is a terrible drought in northern Kenya this year, so it was no surprise to see illegal grazing of cattle in the park, but the herdsmen were very careful not to show their faces and did, in fact, skedaddle pretty quickly from Lake Paradise when they heard our Land Rover.
Back at Lake Paradise, huge herds of buffalo were coming down to the lake to drink and wallow deep in the water. We watched from the comfort of our camp chairs with sundowners in hand. Just on last light, we spotted a herd of elephant coming carefully and stealthily down to the lakeside to drink. What a thrill! Ahmed’s legacy lives on. Unfortunately, it quickly got too dark to see them on the other side of the lake.
We had a fabulous evening and night on our own with hyenas fighting and laughing nearby, and buffaloes grunting. We were in paradise.
Day 12: Lake Paradise, Marsabit National Park to Sera Conservancy
Time taken: 9 hours 15 minutes
Distance: 201 kms
Early in the morning, we struck camp and headed down the rough track to the Karare Gate where we exited the National Park and turned south onto the new immaculate tarmac. We sped down the road through Laisamis and Merille to the village of Sereolipi.
A few days previously, I had phoned the Northern Rangelands Trust’s tourism hotline to ask whether we could camp at Sera Conservancy and go walking with rhinos in their rhino sanctuary. I have posted about the Northern Rangelands Trust before, but here is a short description:
In 2004 the Northern Rangelands Trust was formed to help remote communities with a mission to “develop resilient community conservancies which transform people’s lives, secure peace and conserve natural resources. It does this in a number of ways. It raises funds for the conservancies. It provides them with advice on how to manage their affairs. It supports a wide range of training and helps broker agreements between conservancies and investors. It also monitors performance, providing donors with a degree of oversight and quality assurance”.
With the assistance of the Northern Rangelands Trust, 33 community conservancies have been formed which cover more than 44,000 sq kms and 400,000 people. More information on this exemplary organisation can be found on their website at http://www.nrt-kenya.org/
Rufo from NRT Tourism was terrific. At short notice, she radioed the Sera Conservancy HQ and arranged our visit, texted and emailed me all the details, and checked with a phone call that I had received it. I had been out of internet contact for two days so hadn’t received her email, but as we sped down the immaculate new road, I phoned her. It is usual when visiting any of the Northern Rangelands Trust conservancies to pay beforehand through the Trust. However, most Kenyans have MPesa – the mobile phone payment system invented here in Kenya by Safaricom – but we don’t. That would have been the easiest way to pay. Rufo told me that I wasn’t to pay cash at the Sera Conservancy and she would trust me to pay the money due retrospectively. I told her that we would drop into her office at the gates of Lewa in four days’ time enroute to Nairobi. What a great service. More details on the Sera Conservancy can be found here - http://www.nrt-kenya.org/sera/
So, at the village of Sereolipi, we turned east into the unknown. A fairly rough track took us through typical northern Kenyan pastoralist scrub. 23 kms from Sereolipi and the main road, we arrived at the Sera Conservancy HQ. Here, we were warmly welcomed by the Warden, Johnstone, and his colleagues. Our assigned ranger, Lewis, was ready and waiting with his tent, rucksack, rifle and rations. We filled up our watertanks and a jerrycan with fresh water, and headed off on a 28 km drive to a remote lugga in the Conservancy. This drive did take over an hour, but we were delighted with the piece of Africa chosen on a lugga under acacia trees and doum palms. This is what we like: wild camping with no facilities. We set up camp under the shade of an Acacia tortilis, and Hugh and Lewis went on a walk to set up our Trail Cam whilst I had a welcome al fresco shower with our own shower system. Later, some Rendille camel herders came to call – Lewis seemed to know everyone in the 345,000-hectare group ranch and conservancy – and we gave them some water to drink.
Just after dinner, we heard a huge crash in the doum palms behind us: Lewis did not react at all, but we knew it was an elephant: we hoped we would have a good photo on our Trail Cam. We had a great night with a blazing campfire on the edge of the lugga.
Last edited by Wazungu Wawili; 2017/02/15 at 07:07 PM.
I hope all those wanting to visit these more remote areas and driving the road less traveled are saving this trip report. I certainly am.
These community Trusts and Conservancies appear to provide the best future for game conservation in East Africa. Just as the Trans-frontier Parks and migration corridors are the future in Southern Africa. If the financial benefits of conservation for the local people exceed the harvest from poaching, then probably one has the best chance of ultimately winning the conservation effort!
Stanley Weakley.
Toyota Landcruiser 76SW 4,2L diesel.
“Great journeys are memorable not so much for what you saw, but for where you camped”.
Trans East Africa 2015/2016 Trip report https://www.4x4community.co.za/forum...-6-SLOW-DONKEY
OR
http://www.4x4community.co.za/forum/...e16?highlight= from post 315.
Thanks for this - the Lake Paradise campsite in the Marsabit NP is one of the most beautiful camp sites we have had in many years of travelling Africa. Kenya has many hidden gems that are seldom visited, and this is one of them. Asante sana.
Tony Weaver
2010 Mitsubishi Pajero Sport 3.2l diesel
Previously
1991 Land Rover 110 Hi-Line 3.5l V8; 1968 2.25l Land Rover SII; 1969 2.6l SIIA; 1973 2.25l SIII
1983 Toyota HiLux 2l 4x4
Day 13: Sera Conservancy to Samburu National Reserve
Time taken: 8 hours (including tracking rhinos on foot)
Distance: 131 kms
As always, we were up early, had breakfast, collected the Trail Cam, and struck camp. On the Trail Cam were excellent shots of an aardvark (wow), a genet cat, and our doum palm-crashing friend - a bull elephant.
Lewis was in radio contact with the rangers inside the rhino sanctuary and the trackers were out. The drive to the northern gate took about half an hour. The rhino sanctuary is, of course, fenced and encloses 105 km² - more on that subject later from “Mzungu Moja”. There are 11 black rhinos in the sanctuary – one being a Sera-born baby rhino.
We found the rhino trackers deep inside the sanctuary with their radio locater. We parked up and set off on foot through the thick bush with four rangers – only Lewis was armed. With adrenaline pumping, we crept through the bush until we were stopped by a hand signal. About 30 metres away were two rhinos deep in a bush. Unfortunately, it was siesta time and they were fast asleep. But this was a thrilling sight. We crept back to the Land Rover. The radio locater indicated that the next nearest rhinos were about 3 kms away in even thicker bush. So, instead of a 6 km walk, we brewed up tea and coffee for us and the rangers, and we all sat on the roofrack munching biscuits. Nearby, was a small herd of elephants peacefully browsing. What a place. The rhino sanctuary rangers wanted a lift back to their accommodation and, with four people on the roofrack, I carefully drove back to the gate.
Having dropped the three rangers back at their camp, we and Lewis did a game drive through the sanctuary visiting some of the waterholes that have been put in place, and exited the sanctuary not far from the Sera Conservancy HQ. There, we dropped Lewis off, said our farewells and thanks, and headed towards the main road. What a great place.
Fences are bad: But…
As a general principle, I disapprove of fences in the wilder areas of Africa. They stop wildlife migrating, isolate populations to the long-term detriment of their breeding viability, and can directly damage some species, particularly giraffe. In periods of drought, such as currently affecting Northern Kenya, pastoralists are restricted in their access to relief grazing. This can lead to social unrest, as is the case now in the Laikipia area of Kenya (there are wider issues also at play in that area). I would be deeply unhappy to feel that Kenya could end up, like much of South Africa, as a series of small fenced conservancies demanding active management of animal populations to preserve them.
And yet, when I stepped inside the Rhino Sanctuary in Sera Conservancy, my prejudices were challenged. Under the current drought conditions, the area outside the Sanctuary is denuded of nearly all grazing: just bare earth and dust is visible below the thorn scrub. Within the sanctuary, grass, albeit dry, survives, and the 105 sq km appears like a lush oasis. This is due to the fence, which apart from hindering poachers and confining the rhino to a known and protectable area, excludes the local pastoral communities’ livestock. Being a community-owned and managed project, the sanctuary (and indeed the restrictions on grazing in the wider conservancy) are not yet producing any problems locally. Indeed, it might result in the locals understanding better the implications of their current livestock holding and grazing patterns, and persuade them to reconsider their traditional views which measure all status and wealth in terms of livestock numbers. In which case, this fence could do much to address the real and wider causes of environmental degradation.
In the meantime, there it sits, in a lovely part of Africa: Yes, many giraffe have been killed by it (although greater familiarity is reducing this damage), and the elephant, giraffe and other herds residing within the sanctuary are confined and will need interventionist management. But these problems are being addressed and are not insurmountable. Perhaps this is a good fence. What some bright spark should invent is a fence which stops cattle, goats and rhino, but allows free passage to elephants, giraffe and other migratory game. Now there’s a challenge…
You can read more about the Sera Conservancy here and a useful and comprehensive report on the Rhino Sanctuary here.
Heading back towards the main road from the Sera HQ, we didn’t follow our tracks back to Sereolipi, but went west, then south and then west again. With the Mt Ololokwe in the distance for most of the drive, we weren’t going to get lost, but this was a road less travelled. For those of you who have never been to northern Kenya, you have a treat in store. Visible from this area were some of the great mountain ranges – Ololokwe, Warges, the Mathews Range and, in the far distance, the Ndoto Mountains. Earlier in the morning, Mt Kenya would have been visible to the south, and the Nyambene Hills to the SE.
Once back on the main road it was about 40 kms to Archer’s Post. Here we stopped in a bar for a cold soda, but didn’t feel like the nyama choma on offer. This was our turn-off to Samburu National Reserve, and a few kilometres later, we came to the gate. We paid for three nights camping in the public campsite – cash USD or Kenyan shillings only accepted.
Samburu used to be a firm favourite, but we hadn’t been for many years. It was a bit of a shock to see so many tented camps and lodges now on the banks of the Ewaso Nyiro, but there weren’t too many vehicles in the park. The other shock was how few trees there were along the once tree-lined river, but it is still a great park. We set up camp in the Riverside public campsite overlooking the mostly dry river. We did not do an afternoon game drive – we now had time to “chillax” – although the catapult was put to good use to keep the vervets at bay. John, the camp attendant, was also kept busy.
We had a good evening and night, though the dusty wind was a trial at times.
Days 14 and 15:
Samburu National Reserve and Buffalo Springs
The drought was affecting Samburu, with the river mostly dry, and livestock grazing going on across the river in Buffalo Springs National Reserve. However, although livestock were getting access to Buffalo Springs and to the river, there appeared to be some moderation, and the Buffalo Springs Reserve was far from eaten out and contained considerable numbers of game. After an initial morning drive around Samburu, during which we had a lovely view of a leopard (along with quite a few other vehicles), but little else, we largely concentrated on Buffalo Springs, a Reserve less known to us. Scenically it is pleasing, containing more water than the Samburu Reserve on the North side of the Ewaso Nyiro River. The Isiolo River (a stream, really) was running well, and the various springs appeared healthy. The Buffalo Springs themselves provided a pleasant break on our second day, when we took swimming togs and had a refreshing and cooling dip in the crystal-clear water.
It appears that the popularity of Samburu is starting to habituate some animals: a Kudu and her calf happily browsed around the campsite in close proximity to people, but, more concerningly, on return to our campsite one time, we found the camp attendant having a face-off with three bull elephants who wanted to pass through. Eventually they were persuaded to pass round along the river bed and through the bush behind. Monkeys, of course, are an issue, and there is a clear need for constant security within the campsite. It is mildly irritating that one appears to have to pay for this separately – one would expect the camp fees to include local security. But we would far rather pay for that than to go down the route of fenced off camps, which, to our minds, ruin the atmosphere of camping in wild Africa.
On our second day, having seen no lion, and due to depart the following morning, we went for a final short drive in Samburu itself. A sleeping lioness was seen close to Samburu Lodge, and four young cheetah were spotted resting after killing and eating some buck. We had been tipped off about this by a passing driver, and there were a few other vehicles watching. It was good to see that Park Rangers were also in attendance ensuring that vehicles did not press too close and disturb the cats. Of course, we did see the Samburu specialities – gerenuk, Reticulated giraffe, Grevy's zebra, Somali ostrich, and Oryx – as well as the “usual suspects”.
Day 16: Samburu National Reserve to Nairobi
Time taken: 8 hours
Distance: 419 kms
On our final morning, we quickly packed up and took the track out to join the main road just north of Isiolo, and turned right for Nairobi. Half an hour’s drive from Isiolo, we pulled in to Lewa Wildlife Conservancy and called in to the Northern Rangelands Trust office. We met and paid the very efficient Rufo for our stay in Sera Conservancy, and then headed south. Mount Kenya was visible in all its glory until well past Nanyuki.
Six hours later, including a 45-minute stop for refreshment, we were back in Nairobi. A great safari, covering 3,354 kms (2,084 miles), a good variety of magnificent scenery, sightings of Ethiopian wolves, Ethiopian endemic birds, and all of “The Big Five”. Our tracks can be seen here.
Last edited by Wazungu Wawili; 2017/02/16 at 10:03 AM.
24 hours in a day.... 24 beer in a case.... Coincidence?
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My blog: Our African Ramblings (https://safaribug.wordpress.com/)
Heading north: the iconic northern Kenyan mountain, Ololokwe
A pastoral community on the move between Yabelo and Arero in the Ethiopian Somali Region
A typical southern Ethiopian road
The Genale river
Monkey's Chair: Pyrenacantha malvifolia
At last the Bale Mountains were visible in the distance
The road through the Harenna Forest with the Bale Mountains clearly visible
Four and a half day's drive from Nairobi: the view from Bale Mountain Lodge
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