Ford Essex V6 refusing to start

[Henris]

.......... It seems you can get to almost 100mm before you hit the water jacket, so maybe use the 2.8 Cologne pistons?

Max bore on that block is 1,5mm. 60thou. So you bore a bit more than that to make a std sleeve work.

Never looked at those pistons. GP height, skirt size, CR. Couple of things to have a look at. The old XR6 pistons would be fine.

[O.B.]

Henris would you like mine? I was considering putting a 200 Tdi without turbo in it. Won't happen soon, so Im in no rush

[O.B.]

How badly?

It could be that the coil is irradically getting power, causing the motor to crank, and then the partial ignition will then irradically assist the starter motor, causing "cranking badly"

Well badly as in it sounds pap. Like the battery places use in their ads. The sound you do not get from modern car with ECUs.

I think it is not enough power from the battery. Either that or the inertia of the engine became more over night

[janseekat]

Hey you guys .. 1st get it to start properly then modify it. ISCH.
Poor oke is still waiting for a solution. Starter bushes worn ??

[grips]

Have the battery load tested. Bad connections or like the boere says your starter "sleep" Which means the stater bushes are shot.
Also on the 3.0l Essex the solenoid takes a hammering as it is exposed to the exhaust manifold.
Those old starters become expensive to repair. Buy a replacement from Midas.

[O.B.]

Right feedback. Firstly thanks for all the input. Much appreciated

Refitted battery tightened clamps. Followed high current wiring to starter all tight. Tightened the negative wire to chassis slightly. One of the spade fittings on the starter a little loose but contact. Starters witch checked and poked. Looks new. I opened the distributor but that is where I retreated. Those things scare me.

Not expecting much I cranked. Low and behold it worked. So either I accidently fiddled the wrong connection right. Or it could have been moist. It had an unsupervised wash. Be as it may, the guy that put it together, could have done better. So I will at some time have to recheck all electrical. And learn the science of ignition...

[O.B.]

Problem is back. Wonky connection somewhere

[onwards]

You refered to battery negative connection to chassis, make sure you also have a good cable connection to engine block

[onwards]

You refered to battery negative connection to chassis, make sure you also have a good cable connection to engine block.

I used to run 2 cables from battery negative terminal, 1 to chasis and 1 to block.

[O.B.]

You refered to battery negative connection to chassis, make sure you also have a good cable connection to engine block

In the end that was it. Negative from starter to chassis. Stone chip paint between the negative and metal of the chassis, slight sanding and voila. Back to its old self.

Now. Next problem. Sometimes parking on an inclined surface, sloping to the driver side, it floods. Easy to get going again the fuel pump has a toggle switch. I switch off and crank 10sec intervals until it takes then switch the pump back on. I assume it is carb related, and this is reallynout of my deph.


As a teenager I used to work on old diesels when we still had the farm. I really don't get why petrol is more common knowledge than diesel as a general rule...

[jelo]

In the end that was it. Negative from starter to chassis. Stone chip paint between the negative and metal of the chassis, slight sanding and voila. Back to its old self.

Now. Next problem. Sometimes parking on an inclined surface, sloping to the driver side, it floods. Easy to get going again the fuel pump has a toggle switch. I switch off and crank 10sec intervals until it takes then switch the pump back on. I assume it is carb related, and this is reallynout of my deph.


As a teenager I used to work on old diesels when we still had the farm. I really don't get why petrol is more common knowledge than diesel as a general rule...

ja float height settings or a poked float or a worn needle and seat

I suggest you try an old school mechanic if you don't want to fiddle with the Weber

[pierre2013]

I am all for the float level. Air filter off, right on top you will see a big screw. Big flat screw driver, turn the screw in about a turn.

[Henris]

............

Now. Next problem. Sometimes parking on an inclined surface, sloping to the driver side, it floods. Easy to get going again the fuel pump has a toggle switch. I switch off and crank 10sec intervals until it takes then switch the pump back on. I assume it is carb related, and this is reallynout of my deph.


......

You must bleed off that pressure on the needle and seat.

Do you have a return line? If not then a bypass will do the trick. The line that goes to the needle and seat, just needs a very small bleed hole to bleed off the pressure. Under 1mm. So install a pipe that goes from behind the pump, to the front of the pump. But that line must bleed very slightly. The pump is more than capable to overcome that bleed hole, but any pressure on the needle and seat, after you switch off, will be bled off.

[O.B.]

ja float height settings or a poked float or a worn needle and seat

I suggest you try an old school mechanic if you don't want to fiddle with the Weber

I Don't spend as much time on it than I would like. That is why progress is slow.


One way to learn I suppose so here we go. Where is the needle and seat?

I am all for the float level. Air filter off, right on top you will see a big screw. Big flat screw driver, turn the screw in about a turn.

Im not seeing that screw?

You must bleed off that pressure on the needle and seat.

Do you have a return line? If not then a bypass will do the trick. The line that goes to the needle and seat, just needs a very small bleed hole to bleed off the pressure. Under 1mm. So install a pipe that goes from behind the pump, to the front of the pump. But that line must bleed very slightly. The pump is more than capable to overcome that bleed hole, but any pressure on the needle and seat, after you switch off, will be bled off.

Does this mean the fuel pump is overpressureing the carb? If I understand correctly I need a 1mm diameter pipe I have to T off the petrol feed back to the tank.



I see there is coolant circulating trough the front of the carb. I assume it has something to do with an automatic choke. I am also not sure the choke is working as well, it was idling fast unless I drove over a bump, then the idle would settle. I think the bump opens the choke completely, and then when the throttle is opened again it chokes up again.

I am wondering if I should not remove and overhaul. Should be a good learning curve.

[Henris]

Please don't touch that carb. That is a black art.
You can run a line to the tank, else just to the input to the fuel pump. It doesn't need to be a 1mm pipe. Just put a plug in the bypass pipe, that has a 1mm hole in. If the needle and seat is worn and you have a constant 6psi pressure on it, then it will bleed that pressure into the float bowl. Then when you start, it is flooded.
If you want to give that carb some TLC, then give it to a proper rebuilder. Else it WILL bite you.

[pierre2013]

I Don't spend as much time on it than I would like. That is why progress is slow.


One way to learn I suppose so here we go. Where is the needle and seat?

Im not seeing that screw?

Does this mean the fuel pump is overpressureing the carb? If I understand correctly I need a 1mm diameter pipe I have to T off the petrol feed back to the tank.



I see there is coolant circulating trough the front of the carb. I assume it has something to do with an automatic choke. I am also not sure the choke is working as well, it was idling fast unless I drove over a bump, then the idle would settle. I think the bump opens the choke completely, and then when the throttle is opened again it chokes up again.

I am wondering if I should not remove and overhaul. Should be a good learning curve.

I had a quick look at the pic of the carb. I am with Henri.

Take it to someone that knows it.

[jelo]

Please don't touch that carb. That is a black art.
You can run a line to the tank, else just to the input to the fuel pump. It doesn't need to be a 1mm pipe. Just put a plug in the bypass pipe, that has a 1mm hole in. If the needle and seat is worn and you have a constant 6psi pressure on it, then it will bleed that pressure into the float bowl. Then when you start, it is flooded.
If you want to give that carb some TLC, then give it to a proper rebuilder. Else it WILL bite you.

there used to be a bunch in Church street that did Weber rebuilds : Carb City?

Like I said: needle and seat and / or a stuck or damaged float.

You need a workshop manual for the settings anyway. Take it to somebody who has a clue.

[CamaroMan]

What area are you in? A normal pump shd supply around 4psi iirc, u shdnt be over pressurizing it.. What pump do u have?

There is a great site for lada niva owners with same carbs and tips for off roading..

I'd say pull carb,give it a check, count screw turns and get familiar while ur in the city

They aren't actually too complicated.. U might have a leaking gasket thats leaking fuel from float bowl or something.. Dirty needle..

U need to check if u have a brass needle or rubber, always get a rubber one, they don't wear the seats out.

If turning off the fuel pump helps I think ur float may be a bit high.. It's really worth checking all these things.

What area you in?

[O.B.]

Thanks for the input Camaro. In Pretoria East.



So I called a guy selling a Weber 38 on OLX and in stead of selling his, he gave me the number of the guy that rebuild his. He comes to your house, take the carb and some cash. Week later he returned with a shiny carb new bits and bobs. R1800 for a guy fixing it on site not too shabby.

He fitted and tuned. Checked timing. Tightened brake vacuum that was leaking ketting in air. When he left it would start and settle in a low even idle without touching the throttle.

If anyone is interested I can post his number. But be warned he can start talking about repentance and Bible verses at the most random times.

I was so happy and looking forward to taking it out on Tuesday. But when I tried to start, it fails. It might catch and run for 3 or so seconds but then dies.

I really really am close to just wanting to pluck it out and binning it. So frustrating to have the Landy in the driveway and knowing I can't make it run

[Henris]

A Weber is very temp and humidity fickle.

So the closest you will get to that car idling, at the touch of the key, from cold, will be when you have that cold start choke set properly.

When that guy was done, that engine was set at running/idling temp.

By default a Weber wants the wants 2-3 proper stabs on the accelerator, before you turn the key.

PS. In the old days, you were never done, fiddling those Webers. It was always a bit more air. A bit more fuel. Richer acceleration jets. Milder choke tubes.

It just was never ending.

The only way you will get close to what a modern engine is, will be with a throttle body, with 2 x injectors, an ECU to control it, that will read ambient temp and pressure. And a pointless ignition system.

http://www.webcon.co.uk/shopexd.asp?id=15299