L322, D3, D4, RRS front control valve teardown, can it be fixed?? - Page 2





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  1. #21
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    Default Re: L322, D3, D4, RRS front control valve teardown, can it be fixed??

    Quote Originally Posted by Marcochezzi View Post
    Something interesting I discovered thanks to google is that while the Fattie bonnet only opens at about 45 degree max, which guarantees swearing while trying to work under there, there are clips on the bonnet hinges, which on disconnecting the airstruts, allow you to lock the bonnet in a near vertical position, not sure if the Disco 3 & 4 & RR sport have this feature, very very handy when performing deep surgery..
    Keep it coming. We learn from each other.
    Now I know what those clip on my D3 are for.
    THANK YOU!!!
    Stay Safe
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    Making today a great day.
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  2. #22
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    Default Re: L322, D3, D4, RRS front control valve teardown, can it be fixed??

    So, it is well documemented that the compressor driers have a tendency of causing 2 issues on the suspension system.

    Firstly, if you live in a very wet environment, the driers pellets go gummy, and block up things so your compressor becomes inefficient etc etc.

    Secondly, if you live in a generally dry area like Gauteng, the drier pellets slowly eat away at themselves due to vibration etc etc and break up forming a powder residue. The driers have filters in them, but even then the powder makes its way through the filters and then its a free for all where it all lands up.

    This powder is known for causing sealing issues betweek o-rings and seats etc etc, the level of which or risk of which I guess is defined by the amount of powder in the system.

    For starters, the Hitachi drier is available as a replacement part, and for the sake of compressor and related suspension parts including valves, should be replaced every so often, I do not know the rate of change, but i would consider it at least every 2 years or so.. Luckily I have a spare which im going to probably replace this weekend, and might just land up turning an aluminium lid for it on the lathe as the first one I had made was gone when I sold my sport..
    Last edited by Marcochezzi; 2016/05/27 at 01:36 PM.
    Every dog has its day, and those with broken tails have their weak-ends...

    1976 CJ-7, 400CI + Holley EFI, Tera-Low 3,15:1 twin stick, ARB's front & rear, oil leaks & plenty more....

    All my other petrol burners are boring....

  3. #23
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    Default Re: L322, D3, D4, RRS front control valve teardown, can it be fixed??

    Quote Originally Posted by Disco-Deon View Post
    Keep it coming. We learn from each other.
    Now I know what those clip on my D3 are for.
    THANK YOU!!!
    There you go, now we all know what to do!!
    Every dog has its day, and those with broken tails have their weak-ends...

    1976 CJ-7, 400CI + Holley EFI, Tera-Low 3,15:1 twin stick, ARB's front & rear, oil leaks & plenty more....

    All my other petrol burners are boring....

  4. #24
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    Default Re: L322, D3, D4, RRS front control valve teardown, can it be fixed??

    Dont worry when you strip the valve block, in mine nothing seems to go ping and dissapear under the carpet or in the cats fur..

    But, from what I've seen the centre valve "piston" might differ a little according to model, although it might be that i was watching google at 3am so my brain was fading fast..

    The valve bodies fit nice and snug in the block cap because of the o-rings, wiggle them out, they will come out.

    Take a good look at the powdery residue on the external o-rings, its not to say that this is the problem, but some have resolved their leaks just by cleaning this off. The o-rings themselves i believe are standard metric, they come off super easily..
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    Last edited by Marcochezzi; 2016/05/27 at 10:56 AM.
    Every dog has its day, and those with broken tails have their weak-ends...

    1976 CJ-7, 400CI + Holley EFI, Tera-Low 3,15:1 twin stick, ARB's front & rear, oil leaks & plenty more....

    All my other petrol burners are boring....

  5. #25
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    Default Re: L322, D3, D4, RRS front control valve teardown, can it be fixed??

    So far, none of the images i have listed actually have parts that move just by looking at them. The actual moving valve with its little steel shaft that is actuated by the electromagnet sits inside the "valve" that i'm holding in the last post.

    I did not take pics, but basically the plastic conical end of the valve is made up 2 plastic elements that locate and lock into one another by virtue of little clips in the moulding.

    To get to the actual physically moving valve and seat each of the 3 "valves??" need to be stripped further.

    This image is of the 2 plastic parts together, and the other is once rotated how they come apart (the valve was already stripped when I took these images..)

    Its important to know that while the O-rings serve their purpose at keeping certain air channels sealed from outer elements etc etc, the inside of this little plastic cover is what effectively seats against the piston seal, i think more will make sense later..
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    Last edited by Marcochezzi; 2016/05/27 at 12:25 PM.
    Every dog has its day, and those with broken tails have their weak-ends...

    1976 CJ-7, 400CI + Holley EFI, Tera-Low 3,15:1 twin stick, ARB's front & rear, oil leaks & plenty more....

    All my other petrol burners are boring....

  6. #26
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    Default Re: L322, D3, D4, RRS front control valve teardown, can it be fixed??

    unclipped all the plastic bits, and stripped each valve to the core..
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    Every dog has its day, and those with broken tails have their weak-ends...

    1976 CJ-7, 400CI + Holley EFI, Tera-Low 3,15:1 twin stick, ARB's front & rear, oil leaks & plenty more....

    All my other petrol burners are boring....

  7. #27
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    Default Re: L322, D3, D4, RRS front control valve teardown, can it be fixed??

    So if we examine what we are left with, we land up with 2 different valve systems, the 2 outer ones being as per the attached image, where:

    the right hand steel tube is just a housing, the centre steel thingy with spring is the physical moving valve, and the plastic conical bit on the left is the valve seat.

    The valve seat has orings on the outside as mentioned before which allow different channels of air passages by virtue of their design.

    The steel moving valve has a rubber (unseen on this photo) face (pad on the copper looking bit) which seats against the inside of the conical plastic housing. Its seats when the coil is DIS engaged. The seating and thereby sealing pressure is thanks to the spring tension between the conical housing seat and the plunger itself. The other end of the plunger has a thin rubber pad, which I can only guess is to stop loud clicking coming into the cab everytime the coil energizes..
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    Every dog has its day, and those with broken tails have their weak-ends...

    1976 CJ-7, 400CI + Holley EFI, Tera-Low 3,15:1 twin stick, ARB's front & rear, oil leaks & plenty more....

    All my other petrol burners are boring....

  8. #28
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    Default Re: L322, D3, D4, RRS front control valve teardown, can it be fixed??

    The physical moving valve inside its housing, and then compressed asif the coil had been energised..
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    Every dog has its day, and those with broken tails have their weak-ends...

    1976 CJ-7, 400CI + Holley EFI, Tera-Low 3,15:1 twin stick, ARB's front & rear, oil leaks & plenty more....

    All my other petrol burners are boring....

  9. #29
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    Default Re: L322, D3, D4, RRS front control valve teardown, can it be fixed??

    As mentioned, the inside of the conical plastic area is where the rubber tip of the valve seats against, its difficult to see but its there, and its pretty sharp looking.
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    Every dog has its day, and those with broken tails have their weak-ends...

    1976 CJ-7, 400CI + Holley EFI, Tera-Low 3,15:1 twin stick, ARB's front & rear, oil leaks & plenty more....

    All my other petrol burners are boring....

  10. #30
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    Default Re: L322, D3, D4, RRS front control valve teardown, can it be fixed??

    If you rotate that housing, and include the 2 o-rings in their respective positions, it is clear then that the air enters either via the centre hole, or the little holes around the edge of the cone, or vice versa, not really sure of the air direction..

    That passage of air is kept sealed to the external everything by virtue of the 2 external o-rings seen on the cone, and another internal one not shown. if the valve piston seen on the previous posts seats against the inner center ring of the cone, air cannot move between the 2 passages, and therefore everything suspension wise stays where it should.. in theory..

    If any of those o-rings are no good, it will obviously leak..
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    Every dog has its day, and those with broken tails have their weak-ends...

    1976 CJ-7, 400CI + Holley EFI, Tera-Low 3,15:1 twin stick, ARB's front & rear, oil leaks & plenty more....

    All my other petrol burners are boring....

  11. #31
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    Default Re: L322, D3, D4, RRS front control valve teardown, can it be fixed??

    Fantastic write-up so far Marco! Thanks for all this valuable info, perfectly described.
    2008 Discovery 3 V8 HSE
    2015 Bushlapa Miskruier 395 (...hy het nie naam nie, sy naam moet hy nog kry....)
    Previous: 2000 Discovery 2 TD5 SE, XT 140

  12. #32
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    Default Re: L322, D3, D4, RRS front control valve teardown, can it be fixed??

    Remember to use NO LUBRICATION on those valves and valve o-rings when reassembling.

    You can use some lube on the sealing o-rings but not on the valves.

    When you resemble the valves be very careful not to "pinch" those 1x10mm o-rings around valve stem base!!!

    ps......can't believe it...it is EXACTLY the same valves as used in the RRC and P38 valve blocks.
    Last edited by Regard; 2016/05/27 at 12:02 PM.

  13. #33
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    Default Re: L322, D3, D4, RRS front control valve teardown, can it be fixed??

    Subscribed!!!!
    Well done , awaiting the results.
    Koos Best
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  14. #34
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    Default Re: L322, D3, D4, RRS front control valve teardown, can it be fixed??

    Howzit Marco: seems you're having a full day at the 'office'?
    The corner valve is exactly the same unit on D3 & RRsport, I did the same exercise, albeit a Sunday afternoon, I didn't have the luxury of a Friday . . .
    You're 100% with the comments of the white powdery residue, mine occurred soon after my AMK air compressor upgrade.

    I literally stripped down the valve block, cleaned with dry cloth and 'lubed' the o rings with Q20 spray.

    I'm unable to tell if it was the dry cloth and residue removal OR if the Orings needed some 'oiling'

    Cheers
    Jacques


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  15. #35
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    Default Re: L322, D3, D4, RRS front control valve teardown, can it be fixed??

    Now the crux of this matter, and my first potential stumbling block..

    I believe that all 3 valves act towards sealing the system entirely, assuming no power..

    I completely understand that powdery residue from the disintigrating dryer pellets can cause sealing issues as all 3 seals had the residue all over them.

    I completely understand that if the o-rings go bad, a leak can develop, thats a cheap fix if I can find the correct size o-rings..

    BUT.. Take a look at the rubber end of the physical moving valve itself. This is the part that seats against the inside seat of the conical plastic affair from the last post.

    The leftmost valve is the centre valve in this affair, the rightmost valve is one of the 2 outermost valves in this affair. It is clear that the seat has compressed the rubber, much like a tap washer, and thereby distorting and potentially causing poor seating conditions, and thereby, she goes down, in front...

    So, my fix, first, try find o-rings, clean everything good and proper, reassemble and pray she stands.

    2nd fix if fix 1 does not work, get a new valve block, could go to a scrapyard, but that will be an expensive risk without doubt..

    Anyone out there that has a suggestion regarding that rubber tip, any chemicals I could use to "relax" the indentation??

    Thanks folks, hope we can all learn something here..
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    Last edited by Marcochezzi; 2016/05/27 at 12:08 PM.
    Every dog has its day, and those with broken tails have their weak-ends...

    1976 CJ-7, 400CI + Holley EFI, Tera-Low 3,15:1 twin stick, ARB's front & rear, oil leaks & plenty more....

    All my other petrol burners are boring....

  16. #36
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    Default Re: L322, D3, D4, RRS front control valve teardown, can it be fixed??

    Suspension dropping
    http://www.4x4community.co.za/forum/...d.php?t=228809


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  17. #37
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    Default Re: L322, D3, D4, RRS front control valve teardown, can it be fixed??

    There are numerous opinions on those valve tips....

    Some say you must use an extremely fine wet sanding paper and sand the ends down to "remove" the indentations.

    Some say just leave it?

    I chose to just leave it and mine is perfect.
    Last edited by Regard; 2016/05/27 at 12:15 PM.

  18. #38
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    Default Re: L322, D3, D4, RRS front control valve teardown, can it be fixed??

    Quote Originally Posted by JacquesC View Post
    Suspension dropping
    http://www.4x4community.co.za/forum/...d.php?t=228809


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    Thanks Jacques, did not see your post originally, but yes, good to read that your issues were resolved after the cleanup.

    Did you note the condition of your valve rubber pads, were the indented as much as mine??

    Can I assume she is still good??

    Cheers & best regards -
    Every dog has its day, and those with broken tails have their weak-ends...

    1976 CJ-7, 400CI + Holley EFI, Tera-Low 3,15:1 twin stick, ARB's front & rear, oil leaks & plenty more....

    All my other petrol burners are boring....

  19. #39
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    Default Re: L322, D3, D4, RRS front control valve teardown, can it be fixed??

    Quote Originally Posted by Regard View Post
    There are numerous opinions on those valve tips....

    Some say you must use an extremely fine wet sanding paper and sand the ends down to "remove" the indentations.

    Some say just leave it?

    I chose to just leave it and mine is perfect.
    Thank you Regard.

    Time allowing I might just shoot off to Adendorff and see what they have in their o-ring packs. If what they have might do, I will replace those that I can.

    I think I'll err on the side of just the o-rings for now, sanding those pads down sounds like a definite replacement job for me..

    It must be noted for whomever might not know, that all the o-rings sit firm once in place, none of them move or slide up and down or anything, its only the little plunger with the copper bit that does the moving on these valves.

    Thanks to all for your feedback, will revert back once i have re-assembled this little puzzle, hopefully with good results!!

    Cheers -
    Last edited by Marcochezzi; 2016/05/27 at 01:46 PM.
    Every dog has its day, and those with broken tails have their weak-ends...

    1976 CJ-7, 400CI + Holley EFI, Tera-Low 3,15:1 twin stick, ARB's front & rear, oil leaks & plenty more....

    All my other petrol burners are boring....

  20. #40
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    Default L322, D3, D4, RRS front control valve teardown, can it be fixed??

    Hey, nope mine were actually in VERY good nick, could find any 'growth' on there.
    But I must say the middle valve - internal smaller Oring - inside the metal shaft- was suspicious at the time and I wanted to change the Orings but didn't. Yes all seemed fine afterwards


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    Last edited by JacquesC; 2016/05/27 at 01:41 PM.
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