FJ45 Rebuild (fibreglass body)

[furpile]

Hi Guys

So this thread is about my Fibreglass Jeep plaything. I am posting in the Toyota section as it is mostly Toyota parts now

Some history, I bought this last year as a plaything. I did not intend to do a complete rebuild, but at the roadworthy they picked up a few issues and there was some rust on the chassis. So I decided to take it apart to get the chassis galvanised.

The vehicle was built on an Isuzu KB43 pickup (1983 model I think), but the engine was replaced with a Toyota 3CT turbodiesel.

So it took me a while to get the thing stripped (only really had time after work in the evenings) but it was done end of last year. Then due to other issues, I didn't really have time for the last six months to do anything. But when I started again in June I realised that the old chassis was severely rusted through, especially in the areas where the suspension attached to. So I decided to scrap that chassis and look for an alternative.

So I found an FJ45 rolling chassis, in decent condition for its age and the time it was standing outside. The leaf springs all round will also make it easier to work on for me.

I have now finally got the chassis in my garage with the body on top to start fitment, and I picked up the first problem

The FJ45 wheelbase is just about 3m, and I thought the Isuzu was also 3m, but it turns out the body is only about 2,7m between the wheel arches. I really don't want to start cutting into the chassis, so I am looking at ways to extend the body, either in front of the firewall or behind the seats. Extending the load bin will probably be the easiest way, and then I get some useful space as well.

[furpile]

Original vehicle:


Old Isuzu gearbox. The guy who built it took a lot of shortcuts that only became apparent once the thing was stripped. Here they cut a chunk out of the bellhousing of the gearbox to make space for the starter that sits on the other side with the Toyota engine... leaving the started gear open to the environment. Luckily I found a 5 speed 4x4 Toyota gearbox with the rear output on the side to fit with the rear axle, and it should fit my engine perfectly. Getting it this week hopefully.


One of the front suspension bolts. Some of them were worn out more than half way through! Luckily I decided to strip the thing. I think the previous owner also drove through saltwater, as I found seasand in many places...


Now to the point of this thread The "new" FJ45 chassis when I picked it up.


And at home:


And the first fit of the body yesterday:


This is when I found out that the body is shorter than the chassis, so now I need to decide where to cut/lengthen.

[furpile]

Had a look tonight, and will probably cut the body behind the seats (where the load bin starts) and lengthen it. Hopefully getting the gearbox tomorrow, then I can fit that and the engine to make the final decision. Needs to be lengthened between 250 and 300mm.

[Marcochezzi]

Take note that you have the "short nose" CJ series jeep front end.

The long nose has a longer bonnet, and longer fenders, total extra length = approx. 16cm forward from the firewall

Take a look at the photo of my CJ-7 fender and you can see the difference between yours and mine.

If you can get hold of the 7 fenders & long bonnet then you might just manage space wise.

I have an old fiberglass 7 long bonnet if you need, will need fixing though because of small cracks but nothing extreme at all.

Unfortunately no extra fenders.

If this option could work for you, but you cannot find fenders, it would be much easier to add the extra length to the fenders than surgery on a perfectly good body..

[furpile]

Thanks for the info Marco. Didn't know there was a longer nose version available. I am getting my gearbox today, then I will fit that and the engine to see where everything sits. Currently the gearbox might be too far forward for the gear levers to reach, but I'll see. I will keep this in mind and see if that 160mm will be enough with the longer nose.

I will probably know next week only, as we are going away this weekend, but thanks for the offer and advice.

[Marcochezzi]

Thanks for the info Marco. Didn't know there was a longer nose version available. I am getting my gearbox today, then I will fit that and the engine to see where everything sits. Currently the gearbox might be too far forward for the gear levers to reach, but I'll see. I will keep this in mind and see if that 160mm will be enough with the longer nose.

I will probably know next week only, as we are going away this weekend, but thanks for the offer and advice.

Very welcome

Just measured from front of tub to centre of front wheel is approx 67cm, with that said I would prefer to move my front axle forward a few cm but my level of desire is a little low right now.

anyway, at least you have a distance number that you can use as comparison to your rig.

Cheers -

[furpile]

Very welcome

Just measured from front of tub to centre of front wheel is approx 67cm, with that said I would prefer to move my front axle forward a few cm but my level of desire is a little low right now.

anyway, at least you have a distance number that you can use as comparison to your rig.

Cheers -

Thanks, I will check that so long until I have the gearbox in position. I also don't want to cut the chassis at all or move anything I don't have to.

[furpile]

Gearbox delivered today.

[furpile]

Finally got the old adapter plate off the engine. Had to drill out 3 of the bolts. And as luck would have it the gearbox doesn't fit on the engine

The holes on the bellhousing and the engine are about 10-20 mm offset. So now I need to find another bellhousing that will fit the 3C-T engine or have a new adapter plate made up.

I also have no idea where this gearbox came from. RSA truck spares said it came from the UK, but they wrote 2.0L Condor on it? From what I could find on the internet that transfer case is the same as was used on the H55F gearbox from the old Cruisers, but the gearbox itself looks different. Maybe an AX-5 or AX-15? Anybody have an idea?

[furpile]

OK, so thanks to Grips I found a bellhousing at Gilo Engineering that will fit my engine and gearbox. According to them its a D4-D box. They have to cast new bellhousings as they are out of stock, so it's going to take a few weeks. Going to strip the chassis and get it galvanised so long, new engine mounts will bolt onto the beams, so no welding required.

[furpile]

Ok progress has been slow but at least something is happening. Getting the chassis stripped was a misson. Lots of bolts had to be ground off. It has been sandblasted and is going for galvanising tomorrow. Hope to have it back next week.

Need to get the axles started to see what condition they are in. Then I can have a rolling chassis again and get started with engine fitment and building mounts. Gilo has finally got the bellhousing and that should be here next week as well.

[Groblehh]

Photos?

[furpile]

Couldn't get photos of the sandblasted chassis today, but will post next week after galvanising. The rest is just a heap of parts right now

Busy draining the rear diff oil and things are looking good so far.

[locklaw]

Ok, if there was oil in it the standing outside will in all likelihood not have caused too much damage (save for seals and bearings which you intend to replace in anyway).

[furpile]

Yeah. Got the back cover off the diff and it looks ok so far. A bit of rust on the main gear but still very smooth. I'm sure after cleaning it will be fine again. There is a bit of play in the diff, not sure if this is a shimming issue or the bearings. The gears look fine so far, which is good news.



Will pull the sideshafts out if I can get the wheels off . Everything is a bit rusty.

[locklaw]

No need to remove wheels. Just make sure the drums can turn. The axles are c-clip type. Remove the pin holding the spiders and remove the block and spiders, bash the side shaft inwards with a soft faced hammer (rubber or thick plank and regular hammer) and the clips fall out as the axle moves inward. Then it is a case of pulling them outward and out (the tyre actually gives you good leverage on which to pull).

You can now inspect the roller bearings running on the side shaft and see how much the seal leaked.

As to the play, difficult to guess but often it is the pinion bearings going bad, not the side bearings on the carrier.

The 'rust' I would ignore, apart from a good wash with petrol. Leave it be and change oil (as you should) after 1k km and then again after 5k km. The heat and use will wear the rust right off.

While everything is easy go get to, make sure you can loosen the drain nut. It is short and a regular socket likes to slip. The solution is to buy a cheap socket in size, grind away the bevelled first bit from the 'top' (about 5mm or so) and this should grip the nut properly. If it is at all damaged, buy a new one from your local Toyota dealer and a crush seal. They're all the same from the 40 series to the new 70 series bakkies and not too expensive.

[furpile]

No need to remove wheels. Just make sure the drums can turn. The axles are c-clip type. Remove the pin holding the spiders and remove the block and spiders, bash the side shaft inwards with a soft faced hammer (rubber or thick plank and regular hammer) and the clips fall out as the axle moves inward. Then it is a case of pulling them outward and out (the tyre actually gives you good leverage on which to pull).

You can now inspect the roller bearings running on the side shaft and see how much the seal leaked.

As to the play, difficult to guess but often it is the pinion bearings going bad, not the side bearings on the carrier.

The 'rust' I would ignore, apart from a good wash with petrol. Leave it be and change oil (as you should) after 1k km and then again after 5k km. The heat and use will wear the rust right off.

While everything is easy go get to, make sure you can loosen the drain nut. It is short and a regular socket likes to slip. The solution is to buy a cheap socket in size, grind away the bevelled first bit from the 'top' (about 5mm or so) and this should grip the nut properly. If it is at all damaged, buy a new one from your local Toyota dealer and a crush seal. They're all the same from the 40 series to the new 70 series bakkies and not too expensive.

Wow, thanks for all this info locklaw. This is what makes this forum so useful, having so many people willing to share their knowledge. I really appreciate everybody helping me out.

I will try your method tonight or over the weekend. Still need to get the leaf springs off the axles, the thread part of the u-bolts are pretty rusted so I will probably cut them off and get new u-bolts (safer as well). I will replace all the seals and bearings just because the thing has been standing so long.

I will do the petrol clean and oil change as well (also for the engine and gearbox).

The drain nut is actually the first thing I took off, it came loose easily and has just a bit of rust on it. Will give it a good clean and it should be fine. Not sure about the seal part of the plug, I didn't have a good look at it but is it just a washer or some type of rubber seal?

[locklaw]

You're welcome. Thinking about it and given the time everything was outside, thee wheels may just have to come off first if the nuts are difficult to come off or if the drum does not want to move inward enough.

For the washer you get many types. Fibre, copper or nowadays genuine Toyota is a silver soft metal type of seal. I prefer Toyota or a good quality, perfectly fitting copper washer. If you are draining quickly, you can even just use thread tape (not too much) or a fibre washer and only fit the proper washer once you are going to leave the oil for a while.

[Marcochezzi]

The 'rust' I would ignore, apart from a good wash with petrol. Leave it be and change oil (as you should) after 1k km and then again after 5k km. The heat and use will wear the rust right off.

.

+1 on the rust, quite honestly my 45 axle in the jeep was clearly sitting with water in the housing for many years as my main gear was rusted and also pitted, to be honest and I'm probably going to get flak for this I just left it as is, been holding up perfectly fine being abused for the last 15 years or so without any noticeable issues in the least.

Rebuilding that diff is a no brainer, some simple tools and you are good to go, just get your preloads and alignment correct and you are good.

The 45 series carrier bearing were updated some time back in the past, in all probability the originals you might still have will be obsolete, if I remember well the new bearings have more rollers compared to the old style.

Good luck!!

Cheers -

[furpile]

Thanks. I just got a copy of a very old Toyota repair manual for the FJ40,43,45 and 55. According to this manual only the FJ55 had the rear axle stabiliser arm. Now my axle has that arm, but the leaf spring numbers corresponds to the FJ45 (according to this manual) and the chassis number and shape is definitely also FJ45. So is it possible that they put a rear axle from a FJ55 into the FJ45? Everything else is the same apparently. Or did the FJ45 also come out with the stabiliser arm?

Luckily this manual goes into great detail how to disassemble and reassemble the diff, so I should be OK I will also make sure that both diffs have the same ratio in, you never know.