Go Big Air-Bag light, radiator light, air in fuel line





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  1. #1
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    Default Go Big Air-Bag light, radiator light, air in fuel line

    Hi I have an Isuzu KB 300 LX and love it. However the airbag light keeps coming on and off, same applies to the radiator light which also introduces a nasty beep in the vehicle and I keep on having to constantly bleed the fuel line. Can anyone offer some assistance? The mileage is 125,000km so my warranty is long gone

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    The airbag light is due to the crappiest connector invention ever!
    It is below the passenger seat. Most guys do an aftermarket fix there.

    The radiator light is a bit concerning, as it might be just a faulty sensor, but at worts it could be a coolant system issue.

    The bleeding of the feul system most likely points to a leaky fuel line - sucking air. You can replace the pipeline from tank to pump yourself.

    The (much) more knowledgeable (yikes - big word) Isuzu guys (JP, Sakkie, Frik, etc) will be able to better advise / assist you.

    I am only listening to the voices.
    Jacques
    Never trust a Chinchilla to hold your balloon.

  3. #3
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    As Dookie mentioned, Airbag light is the connector under the seat that is the culprit, most often the one on the passenger side. Please do not disconnect, you might end up with a lot of damage to your pocket. There is a way to do this as the airbags have a slow discharge capacitor that powers them up. Best is to speak to your friendly GM technician

    The radiator light is most likely the brass sender unit at the top of the radiator that is faulty, buy from GM and replace yourself. That sender unit senses the fluid level in the system .

    The fuel bleeding issue . . . start by replacing all the pinchclamps around the filterhousing with proper hoseclamps.

    Hope it helps
    [B]Johan Prinsloo

  4. #4
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    Thanks guys I will try all the remedies this weekend and let you know whats going on.

    Any advice on changing the final drive ration and the chip from SAC?

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Previously Disadvantaged View Post

    Any advice on changing the final drive ration and the chip from SAC?
    Do you want to install the closed loop chip and exhaust probe?
    If so, it will be worth it!
    I've done it, JP has and so the list can go on.

    Why would you want to change you final drive ratio?

    Did you get the running boards from Weimeraner?
    Jacques
    Never trust a Chinchilla to hold your balloon.

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    Agree with the advice on all 3 items in question. On my 300 it's the driver's side connector that sometimes cause the airbag light to come on.

    You do not mention which Go Big you've got, I mean 4x4 or 4x2. Changing the final drive ratio means changing the diff ratio, means changing the crown wheel and pinion, means a couple of thousand rand, and MANY thousand rand if it's a 4x4, cause you've got to change both diffs. Why do you want to change your current ratio.
    Sakkie Coetzee

    Some people say I have a "short temper"....I see it as swift and assertive reaction to Bull!

  7. #7
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    This vehicle is a 4X4 and I heard if you change the final drive you can get more speed. I got a quote of R6900 from SAC for the closed loop chip and they reckon I should get about 100Nm and 25KW more any one got these figures?

    I am still looking for the running boards, I like the look of them and dont really go off-road unless I am going home to KZN to visit the folk

  8. #8
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    Don't change the final drive ratio, more speed means less pulling power on an uphill or through the gears. Anyway, how much more speed do you want ? And keeping in mind that it is a vehicle with a higher centre of gravity. On a trip to Swartwater the past weekend I recorded a highest of 164km/h on the GPS, but then caught up with the rest and happily cruised at 130-140 km/h (GPS) the rest of the trip. If you need to do something, have the closed loop Plug 'n Play fitted by SAC . . . miles o' smiles. Figures on mine in the region of 116kw and 420Nm (on the rear wheels)
    [B]Johan Prinsloo

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    I was sold something about lower engine rpms = lower fuel consumption etc etc etc any truth in that?
    Wrangler Unlimited CRD, Zone Offroad 3" lift, Daystar hood latches, JKA bumper, Spots,

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    That is not necessarily true, as engine load plays a big part in the amount of fuel your vehicle consumes. If you are driving at 3000RPM in 5th gear with no load on a flat road, you will use less fuel than driving with a load at 1500RPM on a flat road. The engine will be very free at 3000RPM, This does not mean that you must always rev high, but try and keep the bakkie pulling freely. Revs dont always have the say in fuel consumption, have a look at your torque curve and power curve. you will find that your maximum kw is found at 4200RPM, and your maximum torque output at 2000 RPM. Find the balance in between these two figures. I like 3200RPM, roughly halfway between these figures. This is good speed and consumtion in this rev range.
    Hope it helps
    Jonob
    Current: Toyota FJ Sport Cruiser

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