Kenya leg Trans-Africa trip August 2015.





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    Default Kenya leg Trans-Africa trip August 2015.

    In line with my other requests for information on routes and destinations in other countries on my way north, could I please ask for any tips and advice for Kenya? I have a full schedule penciled in but it is too bulky to post in full. If anyone would like the whole caboodle please PM me.

    In summary our wish list includes the Mt Elgon area (proceeding from Uganda), Saiwa Swamp and Kakamega Forest and then the various Rift Valley lakes. Does anyone have up to date information as where best to see flamingos as everything has been upset by the exceptionally high lake water levels over the last few years?

    Then Masai Mara and the Mara Conservancy, Aberdares, Laikipia and Mt Kenya. The Sambura NP and Lake Turkana will be included on the way to Ethiopia.

    On our southbound leg we hope to use the notorious Moyale to Isiola route from Ethiopia. Meru NP, Tsavo East and West are the parks we would like to include. The coast would probably include the areas around Malindi, Watuma and Mombasa. We are considering flying into Lamu because of the activities of Al Shabab in the north-east.

    Any comments, recommendations or background information would be much appreciated. I received great help with Zambia, Tanzania, Rwanda and Uganda.
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    “Great journeys are memorable not so much for what you saw, but for where you camped”.

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    Trans East Africa 2015/2016 Trip report http://www.4x4community.co.za/forum/...e16?highlight= from post 315.

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    My advice?..........Have lots of time.
    "A poxy, feral, Brit architect who drinks bad beer and supports the wrong rugby team." Tony Weaver

    "Mike for President" Freeflyd

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    http://www.bushtrucker.ch/
    Handy / mobile +254-722 800 589
    Mail: [email protected]

    For a special question about Kenia try to contact Elvira from Bush Trucker Tours. She is a Swiss lady, owner of Bush Trucker Tours since 1999 and guide in Kenia. A very helpful lady for questions.

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    While in the Kitale/Saiwa Swamp area, do a traverse of the Cherangani Hills over the "Cherangani Highway" - spectacular.

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    Default Cherangani highway

    Quote Originally Posted by Tony Weaver View Post
    While in the Kitale/Saiwa Swamp area, do a traverse of the Cherangani Hills over the "Cherangani Highway" - spectacular.
    Indeed, the Cheranganis are spectacular. A key training ground for Kenya's Olympic athletes. I am also telling Stan about an intrepid route from the Kapenguria area down the Marich Pass into the Kerio Valley and then across the Kito Pass before dropping down to Lake Baringo. Very remote Africa.

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    Stan, I will try tomorrow to email you the draft manuscript of my book which I delivered to the publishers today (don't have a final answer yet as to whether or not they will go ahead with it, but I am optimistic). Many of the areas you will be travelling through are covered in it in narrative, as opposed to guide book form (foreword is by one Mike Garnham - he doesn't know it yet!)
    Last edited by Tony Weaver; 2015/03/10 at 11:36 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Wazungu Wawili View Post
    Indeed, the Cheranganis are spectacular. A key training ground for Kenya's Olympic athletes. I am also telling Stan about an intrepid route from the Kapenguria area down the Marich Pass into the Kerio Valley and then across the Kito Pass before dropping down to Lake Baringo. Very remote Africa.
    I've done that route - it is epic! Absolutely spectacular. Stan, depending on the security situation (mainly related to cattle raiding wars between the Pokot, Turkana etc) Lake Turkana is a must-do destination. Harsh as hell, wind comes up like clockwork at around 2pm off Mount Kulal and blows like hell, but stunningly beautiful. Spend some time with the El Molo (LoMolo) people, reputed to be the smallest tribe in Africa, around 3000 people. They had, when we were there, a well-developed pay-as-you-go system for "cultural tourists" with all money going into a central community fund. And you can float a line out for Nile perch - head north up the lake well beyond the settlements at Loiyangalani, and if there are no security problems (check locally) you can bush camp just about anywhere. Some prime spots about 10km north of Loiyangalani - the wind blows almost due east, so offshore off the lake, and there are plenty of koppies to shelter behind with great lake views. Nile Perch, as I've mentioned before, is the best eating fish I have ever tasted.
    Last edited by Tony Weaver; 2015/03/10 at 11:34 PM.

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    Stan, thats a program for 2 months.
    Skip Tsavo West and add Amboseli.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Stan Weakley View Post

    On our southbound leg we hope to use the notorious Moyale to Isiola route from Ethiopia. .
    That road is now tarred most of the way, although bandit/Al Shabaab attacks on the contractors has disrupted the tarring a few times. Another epic route bites the dust (or the tar).

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    Eagle Air, which was an Air Kenya subsidiary, have now been wrapped into Air Kenya who do a daily Malindi - Lamu flight. We left our vehicle at Driftwood Beach Club in Malindi. If that doesn't work, give me a call - my cousin has a spot in Malindi, as does a surfer friend of mine.
    Last edited by Tony Weaver; 2015/03/11 at 12:32 AM.

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    Thanks for all the enthusiastic replies.

    Southerndreams, Amboseli is definitely in our plans, especially seeing how they have cleaned up their act with the off-road driving.

    Tony and Wazungu, it is definitely all the out of the way tips that really pique my interest. We will probably fly into Lamu, probably from Malindi. I have been cautioned about driving too far north on the coast.

    The manuscript would really be something to look forward too. I can see that Kenya will steal some months from us. I have from the start regarded it as the center-point of the whole effort. The excitement is mounting as I work through the long checklist of preparations.

    I must say I have received excellent advice for this trip. Some have really gone the extra mile.
    Last edited by Stan Weakley; 2015/03/11 at 12:21 AM.
    Landcruiser 76SW.

    “Great journeys are memorable not so much for what you saw, but for where you camped”.

    At least "Once a year go someplace you have never been before" Delai Lama.

    Trans East Africa 2015/2016 Trip report http://www.4x4community.co.za/forum/...e16?highlight= from post 315.

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    Stan, I was just skimming through my manuscript and one unmissable place in Kenya is the Aberdares National Park - but you must learn to flyfish before going there, as the trout fishing is sublime (you just have to watch out for the lions stalking you). If you're in Cape Town before leaving, you are welcome to come and have dinner and borrow three seminal books - all old and dated, but which we found invaluable and totally pertinent: Where To Fish In Kenya (1976); Where to Watch Birds in Kenya (1982); and The Mountains of Kenya: A Walker's Guide (1989 revised).
    We used the three to find hidden campsites and bush camps, and wild areas that never make the guide books. Amazingly, the where to fish book guided us to government funded camp sites that hadn't seen any tourists in years, only locals, and were often in sublime places like the Mau Forest, the Kimakia River etc. Kenya is like that...

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tony Weaver View Post
    I've done that route - it is epic! Absolutely spectacular. Stan, depending on the security situation (mainly related to cattle raiding wars between the Pokot, Turkana etc) Lake Turkana is a must-do destination. Harsh as hell, wind comes up like clockwork at around 2pm off Mount Kulal and blows like hell, but stunningly beautiful. Spend some time with the El Molo (LoMolo) people, reputed to be the smallest tribe in Africa, around 3000 people. They had, when we were there, a well-developed pay-as-you-go system for "cultural tourists" with all money going into a central community fund. And you can float a line out for Nile perch - head north up the lake well beyond the settlements at Loiyangalani, and if there are no security problems (check locally) you can bush camp just about anywhere. Some prime spots about 10km north of Loiyangalani - the wind blows almost due east, so offshore off the lake, and there are plenty of koppies to shelter behind with great lake views. Nile Perch, as I've mentioned before, is the best eating fish I have ever tasted.
    Tony: I will be sending Stan an "essay" on the Marich Pass to Baringo route in the next few days, but I am not recommending the west Turkana route as the bridge across the Omo river at Omorate, Ethiopia is not complete. You are talking about the eastern Turkana route and Loiyangalani. Yes, the wind from Mt Kulal is quite something and tents are surplus to requirement. Which is one of the reasons NOT to have a roof top tent. We sleep on our camp beds in the open with the Land Rover as a wind break on the eastern side of Lake Turkana. The El Molo tribe are on the eastern side of Lake Turkana.

    From my contacts, the Marsabit to Moyale route is still pretty rough and intrepid, but the Chinese are working on it. Definitely Chinese tar as far as Laisamis, and maybe further north by now. Perhaps recent travellers will have an update, but this is a big road project with huge logistic challenges. I think Stan is wanting to go the Loiyangalani-Sibiloi-Omorate track which has different challenges.

    Southern dreams: I would say, Tsavo West is fabulous albeit thick bush interspersed with plains, but with the ultimate backdrop of Kilimanjaro. It is part of one of the largest game parks in Africa. Amboseli a definite - again with Kilimanjaro as the backdrop.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Wazungu Wawili View Post
    You are talking about the eastern Turkana route and Loiyangalani. Yes, the wind from Mt Kulal is quite something and tents are surplus to requirement. Which is one of the reasons NOT to have a roof top tent.
    Yes, the route I am talking about is the eastern route via South Horr. Camping at Loiyangalani in a roof top tent we seriously thought we might lose the tent, it is that bad. Rock a bye bye baby.
    Last edited by Tony Weaver; 2015/03/11 at 02:48 PM.

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    Tony, the glories and freedom of no fixed employment or time constraints. Posting at 02H30! Join the club, hopefully you are busy writing. A Bang-Bang Club type biography would be well received I am sure.

    Unfortunately I will not be visiting the Cape before departure. Fly fishing? It is too late methinks to teach an old dog new tricks, more's the pity!

    Guys you will not believe the detailed and helpful information Wazungu is sending me, far too much to post here. She is a born and bred Kenyan, now in the U.K. We initially made contact during the Southern African leg of their overland trip last year when I was able to provide some more detailed advice she had sourced from some of my trip reports on this forum. Such is the power of the internet and this particular forum. I can assure you that all the first-hand advice I have received will go a long way towards ensuring that we maximize the enjoyment of our trip!
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    Trans East Africa 2015/2016 Trip report http://www.4x4community.co.za/forum/...e16?highlight= from post 315.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Stan Weakley View Post
    Tony, the glories and freedom of no fixed employment or time constraints. Posting at 02H30! Join the club, hopefully you are busy writing. A Bang-Bang Club type biography would be well received I am sure.
    Indeed - reason for being up at 2.30am is that I am now working on a second book so that the publishers have options. Stan, I have mailed you the draft manuscript of "Better Devils".
    Last edited by Tony Weaver; 2015/03/11 at 02:45 PM.

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    Aha, like these ?
    Landcruiser 76SW.

    “Great journeys are memorable not so much for what you saw, but for where you camped”.

    At least "Once a year go someplace you have never been before" Delai Lama.

    Trans East Africa 2015/2016 Trip report http://www.4x4community.co.za/forum/...e16?highlight= from post 315.

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    I assume you chaps have read, An African Trilogy by Peter Matthiessen which includes 3 stories, The Tree where man was Born, about a series of journeys in East Africa, African Silence, which recounts two expeditions to West and Central Africa and Sand Rivers, which describes the Selous Game Reserve. I bought the book at a lovely little book shop and coffee shop in Iringa [cant' recall the name?] I read the book very 6 months, to get my East Africa fix.

    Tony, so glad to see you very active after the Cape Times,looking forward to a book, miss your Man Friday but have now cancelled my subscription anyway!

    Regards.

    Brian
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    Brian I have the Mathiessen book and will dust it off again before we leave. I have been privileged to be able to read the draft of Tony's book and I am sure it will become required reading amongst us lot of bushlovers. I gather he has a couple of other books that he is busy with including perhaps the collection of his Man Friday columns. This will also no doubt be a keeper.
    Landcruiser 76SW.

    “Great journeys are memorable not so much for what you saw, but for where you camped”.

    At least "Once a year go someplace you have never been before" Delai Lama.

    Trans East Africa 2015/2016 Trip report http://www.4x4community.co.za/forum/...e16?highlight= from post 315.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Social View Post
    I assume you chaps have read, An African Trilogy by Peter Matthiessen
    Hi Brian, yes, I quote extensively from Matthiesen in my upcoming book - he is brilliant.

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