DIY Hilux DC Drawer System - 2015





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  1. #1
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    Post DIY Hilux DC Drawer System - 2015

    I purchased a 2006 Hilux D-4D 4x4 at the end of 2014 and immediately ran off to Gerbers 4x4 and had a canopy fitted. This involved selling off the old canopy to the dealer that sold me the vehicle, and then selling the roll bar on Gumtree so that I could replace it with a custom built roll bar that didn't sacrifice access from the sides of the vehicle.



    Scouring the 4x4Community Forum I found a lot of really great posts on various DIY drawer systems, and finally settled on the one built by UtataNtaka. What an awesome job, and serious kudos! If my build in any way looks great, then its thanks to his hard work and sharing in the forum.

    The design I'm referring to is this one.

    I reverse engineered the design using the Hilux dimensions and photos from the forum and then proceeded to design the whole system in AutoDesk 123D (which is an awesome and free design tool).



    You can download the file here.

    The system uses ConnectIt components and aluminium from Non Ferrous Metals (NFM). ConnectIt can be bought from Maizey's, but they gave me a long story about supply problems and other excuses. NFM now also sell the components, and I'd recommend you get them there when buying the aluminium.

    Connect-It
    Units Description Unit price Total price
    36 25mm Std SQ Brace 7.88 226.94
    9 25mm Ind SQ Corner 9.99 71.93
    8 25mm Ind SQ 3-Way 14.90 95.36
    7 25mm Ind SQ 4-Way 19.96 111.78
    8 25mm Std SQ End Cap 1.75 11.20

    Total R589.62

    Aluminium
    Units Description Unit price Total price
    2 2500 x 1250 x 2mm Aluminium Sheet 800.00 1600.00
    2 6m lengths of 50mm x 3.0mm Aluminium Equal Angle 330.00 660.00
    1 6m length of 38mm x 3.0mm Aluminium Equal Angle 245.70 245.70
    1 6m length of 25.4mm x 1.58mm Aluminium Equal Angle 80.00 80.00
    6 6m length of 25.0mm x 1.5mm Aluminium Square Tube 147.00 882.00

    Total R3467.70

    My design puts aluminium cladding around the sides, securely enclosing stuff in (so it can't be stolen), and also preventing things falling in from the back and sides. I wanted a second aluminium sheet so that I could make a box to put in the left hand drawer, for use when I didn't want to use the Wolf Packs / Ammo boxes, and when I had normal shopping/bags/suit cases. You could probably save R1000 by reducing your order to 1 sheet and dropping the 38mm angle.

    I used my trusty Triton workcentre to make all the aluminium cuts. Its noisy... wear ear protection and safety goggles... and remember that it can get hot... and aluminium conducts electricity...


    First I cut the 50mm angle to make the drawers. Note the orientation of the overlap... it's important, or the boxes will sit skew.


    Next I made all the tubing cuts using the dimensions in the AutoDesk design (it already compensates for ConnectIt spacing).


    To ensure you get the most out of each piece of tube and aluminium sheet, consider using MaxCut which is an awesome piece of free South African software. I think I ended up with only about 30cm of waste tubing.

    Laying everything out, it looks like were making progress (the fun is just beginning...)


    I chose to rivet everything in place using 12mm x 4.8mm countersunk rivets I bought at Acorn Fasteners.


    Once the frame was put together it looked like this.



    And once I added in the side panels (using smaller countersunk rivets) and slides (from Furnlock and Slide) it looked like this. Mounting the slides took some creativity, especially the middle ones... where I used these from Gelmar.

    For the slides I used the 7330 Heavy Duty slides which go up to 1m extended. 2 pairs cost me R668. The 1m length means that the back ammo box won't be fully exposed and can't be lifted out without removing the middle box... but the premium in price to go to the 9330 or 9331 was very hard to justify. I also purchased the paddle handles at Furnlock...6203 (without lock) - R117 and 6204 (with lock) - R123.

    I bought a sheet of plain of shutter ply (18mm, 2400 x 1200 - R344 - the one with the green edging) from Builders Warehouse after taking to a few people. Although many people on the forum seem to think this may be a bad move in the long run, I'm prepared to give it a go and see if marine ply is really worth the excessive premium. While at Builders I also bought some Woodoc 50 marine sealer (1l - R200), a 2l tin of Genkem and a 2.5m length of aluminium u channel/board profile (R73). I cut out the boards for the front doors, routed out the handles, sealed them and finally carpeted them with plain old acoustic carpeting from Chamdor in North Riding. The carpet is really cheap (R27 per meter... I think I bought 5m just to make sure) and glues down very well with the Genkem. I'm glad I used the real Genkem... works like a dream.



    You will notice a 3mm MDF spacer in the next image. This is to ensure that when the base for the fridge goes in, that there isn't any sagging.


    Notice the u channel that has been hammered onto the top of the door so that the carpet won't be scuffed.

    With the base in place it looks like this. Notice the eye-bolt in the picture. I plan to use these as mounting points to keep a fridge in place.


    Fridge panel off (before I put in the base for the fridge)


    Next I got to work on cutting out panels for the top of the system. These were also routed out to ensure a nice jigsaw fit, and sealed and carpeted in the same way as the drawers (although only carpeted on the side that shows).


    Here all the pieces are in place. The ammo box slide is standing up against the garage door. Notice the brackets I made and put in place so that this main panel can be screwed down onto the frame and can't be lifted. So when the lock is locked, you won't be able to access that compartment. I've also carpeted the smaller angles to accommodate the 2 tables. In hindsight, I should have used unequal angles so that when a table is inserted with the legs down, they don't sag and get caught up in the drawer below. More on the tables next.


    First thing was to cut the legs and round the edges. I used a normal TCT routing bit to route out the bolt channels. I then cut some blocks out of ply and hammered in a T-Nut. The tightening nuts are screw feet from Gelmar, normally used to make sure a tables legs are balanced.


    Attaching the legs.




    Put together with ConnectIts, rivited and table top in place, it looks like this.

    I went for short legs (60cm) so that the tables are at a comfortable height for sitting at.

    Where I could I used Sika Maxx-Tack to join panels to tubes, just for extra strength and vibration dampening.

    I still need to mount the whole system to the load bin, but for that I'm going to use the technique suggested in this forum post. Here the system is attached by bolting through the wheel arches, and I like this approach.

    Final system looks like this.



    The tables slide in perfectly, and I've attached handles from Gelmar so that they are easy to remove. When I close the tailgate, the back of the system is against the back of the load bin, and the handles on the tables touch the tailgate... so it's a snug fit.

    I hope this helps someone. If you have any questions or suggestions, shoot.
    Last edited by SpaceAce; 2015/01/27 at 03:03 PM.

  2. The Following 6 Users Say Thank You to SpaceAce For This Useful Post:


  3. #2
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    Thumbs up

    Awesome build, well done, you have given me some inspiration to finish my drawer system

  4. #3
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    Default

    Top job, SpaceAce!
    Phil
    '10 Hilux D-4D AT - Land Cruiser Lite
    '14 Amarok 2.0 BiTdi 4M AT
    Summit Everest

    Wise men speak because they have something to say; fools because they have to say something - Plato

  5. #4
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    Default

    Puik gedaan SpaceAce

  6. #5
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    Default

    Nicely SpaceAce! Very neat!

    Couple of questions:
    1) Do you have a close up of the table legs, joining to top and slide system?
    2) I am confused as to the 3mm spacer for the fridge base /sagging issue? What is base made of?
    3) Why the jigsaw design on the outside edges of your top boards? Are you making extra covers for over the wheel arch?
    4) Lastly is there enough ventilation for your fridge in that box draw?

    Cheers,

    David.

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    Default Questions:


    Quote Originally Posted by Super_daav View Post
    Nicely SpaceAce! Very neat!

    Couple of questions:
    1) Do you have a close up of the table legs, joining to top and slide system?
    Updated above... I basically plagiarised the design from UtataNtaka posted here.
    2) I am confused as to the 3mm spacer for the fridge base /sagging issue? What is base made of?
    The base is 2mm aluminium sheet. I didn't want to spend more money on 3mm tread-plate, but arguably that would have been the better choice. I wanted to make sure that all the sides support at the same level, so I had to shim the front and back angles to the same height as the sides so that riveting the sheet in place wouldn't bend it.
    3) Why the jigsaw design on the outside edges of your top boards? Are you making extra covers for over the wheel arch?
    Yes, indeed! The plan is to finally enclose the whole load bin to the same level with panels that can be lifted out if required.
    4) Lastly is there enough ventilation for your fridge in that box draw?
    A very good question. I don't have a fridge at present (will continue to watch out for a good Makro special on the Engel), so at the moment its just a cooler box. When the fridge goes in the top panel comes off, so it should be able to vent upwards, but if it looks like its going to be a problem, I may need to router out some venting slots into the front door, or the side aluminium panel.

    Cheers,

    David.
    Last edited by SpaceAce; 2015/01/27 at 03:06 PM.

  8. #7
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    Default

    Hi,
    neatly done, some questions from me as well.
    1. Wont the frame sitting flat against the load bay floor damage the paint/ruberizing due to vibration/movement?
    2. Does the frame sit on top of the 'ribs' in the load bay floor? or in-between?
    Neil

  9. #8
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    Thanks!

    Quote Originally Posted by neoT View Post
    Hi,
    neatly done, some questions from me as well.
    1. Wont the frame sitting flat against the load bay floor damage the paint/ruberizing due to vibration/movement?
    I don't think so. It's pretty heavy and sturdy. Once bolted in place at the arches it shouldn't really move. I can't really move it at the moment as it's a very tight fit between the arches, the back presses tight against the load bin, and the front against the tailgate. So no, I'm not worried about that happening.
    2. Does the frame sit on top of the 'ribs' in the load bay floor? or in-between?
    It sits on top of the ribs... so, if something were to leak, it should run out, and not get trapped.

  10. #9
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    Default

    Suitably impressed. Well done. I especially like the tables. I tried making myself one last year and failed miserably. Can I send you my dimensions for a build?
    Ross

  11. #10
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    Humbly accepted. 8)

    Quote Originally Posted by RMackay View Post
    Suitably impressed. Well done. I especially like the tables. I tried making myself one last year and failed miserably. Can I send you my dimensions for a build?
    Sure... can I send you my bank account details?

  12. #11
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    Default ma se wa ( Mike )

    Quote Originally Posted by SpaceAce View Post
    I purchased a 2006 Hilux D-4D 4x4 at the end of 2014 and immediately ran off to Gerbers 4x4 and had a canopy fitted. This involved selling off the old canopy to the dealer that sold me the vehicle, and then selling the roll bar on Gumtree so that I could replace it with a custom built roll bar that didn't sacrifice access from the sides of the vehicle.



    Scouring the 4x4Community Forum I found a lot of really great posts on various DIY drawer systems, and finally settled on the one built by UtataNtaka. What an awesome job, and serious kudos! If my build in any way looks great, then its thanks to his hard work and sharing in the forum.

    The design I'm referring to is this one.

    I reverse engineered the design using the Hilux dimensions and photos from the forum and then proceeded to design the whole system in AutoDesk 123D (which is an awesome and free design tool).



    You can download the file here.

    The system uses ConnectIt components and aluminium from Non Ferrous Metals (NFM). ConnectIt can be bought from Maizey's, but they gave me a long story about supply problems and other excuses. NFM now also sell the components, and I'd recommend you get them there when buying the aluminium.

    Connect-It
    Units Description Unit price Total price
    36 25mm Std SQ Brace 7.88 226.94
    9 25mm Ind SQ Corner 9.99 71.93
    8 25mm Ind SQ 3-Way 14.90 95.36
    7 25mm Ind SQ 4-Way 19.96 111.78
    8 25mm Std SQ End Cap 1.75 11.20

    Total R589.62

    Aluminium
    Units Description Unit price Total price
    2 2500 x 1250 x 2mm Aluminium Sheet 800.00 1600.00
    2 6m lengths of 50mm x 3.0mm Aluminium Equal Angle 330.00 660.00
    1 6m length of 38mm x 3.0mm Aluminium Equal Angle 245.70 245.70
    1 6m length of 25.4mm x 1.58mm Aluminium Equal Angle 80.00 80.00
    6 6m length of 25.0mm x 1.5mm Aluminium Square Tube 147.00 882.00

    Total R3467.70

    My design puts aluminium cladding around the sides, securely enclosing stuff in (so it can't be stolen), and also preventing things falling in from the back and sides. I wanted a second aluminium sheet so that I could make a box to put in the left hand drawer, for use when I didn't want to use the Wolf Packs / Ammo boxes, and when I had normal shopping/bags/suit cases. You could probably save R1000 by reducing your order to 1 sheet and dropping the 38mm angle.

    I used my trusty Triton workcentre to make all the aluminium cuts. Its noisy... wear ear protection and safety goggles... and remember that it can get hot... and aluminium conducts electricity...


    First I cut the 50mm angle to make the drawers. Note the orientation of the overlap... it's important, or the boxes will sit skew.


    Next I made all the tubing cuts using the dimensions in the AutoDesk design (it already compensates for ConnectIt spacing).


    To ensure you get the most out of each piece of tube and aluminium sheet, consider using MaxCut which is an awesome piece of free South African software. I think I ended up with only about 30cm of waste tubing.

    Laying everything out, it looks like were making progress (the fun is just beginning...)


    I chose to rivet everything in place using 12mm x 4.8mm countersunk rivets I bought at Acorn Fasteners.


    Once the frame was put together it looked like this.



    And once I added in the side panels (using smaller countersunk rivets) and slides (from Furnlock and Slide) it looked like this. Mounting the slides took some creativity, especially the middle ones... where I used these from Gelmar.

    For the slides I used the 7330 Heavy Duty slides which go up to 1m extended. 2 pairs cost me R668. The 1m length means that the back ammo box won't be fully exposed and can't be lifted out without removing the middle box... but the premium in price to go to the 9330 or 9331 was very hard to justify. I also purchased the paddle handles at Furnlock...6203 (without lock) - R117 and 6204 (with lock) - R123.

    I bought a sheet of plain of shutter ply (18mm, 2400 x 1200 - R344 - the one with the green edging) from Builders Warehouse after taking to a few people. Although many people on the forum seem to think this may be a bad move in the long run, I'm prepared to give it a go and see if marine ply is really worth the excessive premium. While at Builders I also bought some Woodoc 50 marine sealer (1l - R200), a 2l tin of Genkem and a 2.5m length of aluminium u channel/board profile (R73). I cut out the boards for the front doors, routed out the handles, sealed them and finally carpeted them with plain old acoustic carpeting from Chamdor in North Riding. The carpet is really cheap (R27 per meter... I think I bought 5m just to make sure) and glues down very well with the Genkem. I'm glad I used the real Genkem... works like a dream.



    You will notice a 3mm MDF spacer in the next image. This is to ensure that when the base for the fridge goes in, that there isn't any sagging.


    Notice the u channel that has been hammered onto the top of the door so that the carpet won't be scuffed.

    With the base in place it looks like this. Notice the eye-bolt in the picture. I plan to use these as mounting points to keep a fridge in place.


    Fridge panel off (before I put in the base for the fridge)


    Next I got to work on cutting out panels for the top of the system. These were also routed out to ensure a nice jigsaw fit, and sealed and carpeted in the same way as the drawers (although only carpeted on the side that shows).


    Here all the pieces are in place. The ammo box slide is standing up against the garage door. Notice the brackets I made and put in place so that this main panel can be screwed down onto the frame and can't be lifted. So when the lock is locked, you won't be able to access that compartment. I've also carpeted the smaller angles to accommodate the 2 tables. In hindsight, I should have used unequal angles so that when a table is inserted with the legs down, they don't sag and get caught up in the drawer below. More on the tables next.


    First thing was to cut the legs and round the edges. I used a normal TCT routing bit to route out the bolt channels. I then cut some blocks out of ply and hammered in a T-Nut. The tightening nuts are screw feet from Gelmar, normally used to make sure a tables legs are balanced.


    Attaching the legs.




    Put together with ConnectIts, rivited and table top in place, it looks like this.

    I went for short legs (60cm) so that the tables are at a comfortable height for sitting at.

    Where I could I used Sika Maxx-Tack to join panels to tubes, just for extra strength and vibration dampening.

    I still need to mount the whole system to the load bin, but for that I'm going to use the technique suggested in this forum post. Here the system is attached by bolting through the wheel arches, and I like this approach.

    Final system looks like this.



    The tables slide in perfectly, and I've attached handles from Gelmar so that they are easy to remove. When I close the tailgate, the back of the system is against the back of the load bin, and the handles on the tables touch the tailgate... so it's a snug fit.

    I hope this helps someone. If you have any questions or suggestions, shoot.
    Hi Space Ace What are the chances that you can send me a copy of your drawer plans. I have the same vehicle as you and would like to build one for me van. My email address
    is [email protected]

  13. #12
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    Default Link to design files

    The link to the AutoDesk 123D file is at the beginning of the post. Download

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    Default

    SpaceAce, a quick question what did you use to hold your equal angle alu. 50mm x 50mm draw together? Pop rivets? Any L-brackets in the various corners to strengthen the joins?

    Cheers,

    David.

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    The whole system only uses ConnectIt with countersunk rivets. No extra brackets. Just had it on a trip to the Transkei, heavily loaded, an no problems whatsoever.

    Quote Originally Posted by Super_daav View Post
    SpaceAce, a quick question what did you use to hold your equal angle alu. 50mm x 50mm draw together? Pop rivets? Any L-brackets in the various corners to strengthen the joins?

    Cheers,

    David.

  16. #15
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    Default

    Fantastic thread

    thanks for sharing
    Kb300 Dtec 4x4 ...let the mods begin
    2003 Kb300Tdi d/c lx 4x4 - sold
    GP0274 batmandiver




  17. #16
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    Holy crap dude, looks awesome!
    2006 Mitsubishi Colt Rodeo 3000i V6 4x4 D/C

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    Wel gedaan!
    Johan
    2013 D4D 4x4 Hilux
    Platkar 2009 1.6 Corolla

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    This is something I'm itching to start, just need to get some free time and a couple more tools I've bookmarked this though, thanks
    2006 Mitsubishi Colt Rodeo 3000i V6 4x4 D/C

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    Flippen Awesome !!

    Baie Dankie dat jy gedeel het.

  21. #20
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    very well done, I think I am going to steal some of this awesome design
    Currently do not own a 4x4, driving a sedan
    Ex: 2013 Ford Ranger 3.2 XLT 4x4 auto
    Ex: 2012 Ford Ranger 3.2 XLT 4x4 auto
    Ex: 2013 Ford Ranger 2.2 XLS 2WD manual
    Ex: 2009 Mazda BT50 3.0 CRDi double cab manual

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