DIY Hilux DC Drawer System - 2015 - Page 2





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  1. #21
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    Wow! Ek ry nie eers 'n Toyota nie maar dis wragtag netjies gedoen

    No money for a real 4x4 so I pimped my
    2011 Volkswagen Transporter 2.0 BiTdi 132kw 4Motion DSG

  2. #22
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    So I have all the shopping done, this weekend it is me and by dual battery and drawer system

    Edit: still need to get a non ferrous metal blade for my compound mitre saw, I do not plan on cutting all that aluminium by hand.
    Last edited by Andz; 2015/05/29 at 03:39 PM.
    Currently do not own a 4x4, driving a sedan
    Ex: 2013 Ford Ranger 3.2 XLT 4x4 auto
    Ex: 2012 Ford Ranger 3.2 XLT 4x4 auto
    Ex: 2013 Ford Ranger 2.2 XLS 2WD manual
    Ex: 2009 Mazda BT50 3.0 CRDi double cab manual

  3. #23
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    Default Quick Question

    Hi

    I've taken this drawer system as inspiration to building my own. Very new to the forum, 4x4, as well as working with aluminium, so was wondering if I could pick your brain? I'm pretty far, the frame is finished, slides in and drawers built. I'm on to the table now but was wondering:

    The legs of the table that you made.
    What is the best way to create that round over at the top of the square tubing? I've got access to quite a few woodworking tools, that I used to work with the aluminium up to this stage with great success - but I can't figure out a safe / good way to create those rounds?

    I've attached what mine looks like atm. Will probably see alot of similarities between the two as far as construction goes!!
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by shinobi111 View Post
    Hi

    I've taken this drawer system as inspiration to building my own. Very new to the forum, 4x4, as well as working with aluminium, so was wondering if I could pick your brain? I'm pretty far, the frame is finished, slides in and drawers built. I'm on to the table now but was wondering:

    The legs of the table that you made.


    What is the best way to create that round over at the top of the square tubing? I've got access to quite a few woodworking tools, that I used to work with the aluminium up to this stage with great success - but I can't figure out a safe / good way to create those rounds?

    I've attached what mine looks like atm. Will probably see alot of similarities between the two as far as construction goes!!


    Ha ha I am also busy with a drawer system, taking inspiration from this thread. but I didnt make tables,
    Currently do not own a 4x4, driving a sedan
    Ex: 2013 Ford Ranger 3.2 XLT 4x4 auto
    Ex: 2012 Ford Ranger 3.2 XLT 4x4 auto
    Ex: 2013 Ford Ranger 2.2 XLS 2WD manual
    Ex: 2009 Mazda BT50 3.0 CRDi double cab manual

  5. #25
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    Looking good! Glad if my documentation helped.

    The way I did the rounding was to cut 45deg edges using my table saw, and then I used a small handheld angle grinder with a flap disk. Flap disks are the most underrated tool EVER! Love them. In this case you can use them to get the round effect close enough that it looks fine... and imperfections are hidden as this is under the table and butted up against the sides. (I tend to be a bit of a perfectionist...)

    Quote Originally Posted by shinobi111 View Post
    Hi

    I've taken this drawer system as inspiration to building my own. Very new to the forum, 4x4, as well as working with aluminium, so was wondering if I could pick your brain? I'm pretty far, the frame is finished, slides in and drawers built. I'm on to the table now but was wondering:

    The legs of the table that you made.


    What is the best way to create that round over at the top of the square tubing? I've got access to quite a few woodworking tools, that I used to work with the aluminium up to this stage with great success - but I can't figure out a safe / good way to create those rounds?

    I've attached what mine looks like atm. Will probably see alot of similarities between the two as far as construction goes!!
    Last edited by SpaceAce; 2015/06/24 at 03:11 PM.

  6. #26
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    #Andz : strange how the world works indeed! Thanks again for your help.

    #SpaceAce : Admittedly without your post probably wouldn't have attempted it in the first place. Helped a lot. I'll give it a wack with that flapdisc and see how it turns out.

    I might have made a couple of mistakes here and there, specially with the height of the slides above the frame, only leaves about 2mm clearance but we'll see if that's going to work once it all goes together. I messed up again big time and ordered my aluminium plate from the wrong branch - so waiting for it to come down to CT from Jozi, but I'll report back once I'm done. Thanks again!

  7. #27
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    Default Re: DIY Hilux DC Drawer System - 2015

    Beautiful build SpaceAce! Well done!
    Im going to be building the exact same system, but excluding the water tank compartment at the back, so my draws will be extending the full length of the system.

    However, i would like to know what the overall width of your system is, and whether it will fit between the wheel arches of my Mazda Drifter 1070mm

    Please advise?

    Thanks

  8. #28
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    Default Re: DIY Hilux DC Drawer System - 2015

    Quote Originally Posted by shahieds View Post
    Beautiful build SpaceAce! Well done!
    Im going to be building the exact same system, but excluding the water tank compartment at the back, so my draws will be extending the full length of the system.

    However, i would like to know what the overall width of your system is, and whether it will fit between the wheel arches of my Mazda Drifter 1070mm

    Please advise?

    Thanks
    My system measures out at 110.5cm and is a tight fit between the wheel arches. Hope that helps?

  9. #29
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    Default Re: DIY Hilux DC Drawer System - 2015

    I love this! Just when I thought I'm going to get bored in my 10 week vacation I see this wonderful project, now I can replace my heavy ugly steel DIY system with this very nice lightweight system! I already have a table that slides into my roof rack, but I'm going to add a small tray that slides out to use as a small work tray for when we make a roadside coffee. Thanks for sharing!

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  11. #30
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    Default Re: DIY Hilux DC Drawer System - 2015

    Quote Originally Posted by MrTolbos View Post
    my 10 week vacation
    Say whaaaat?
    Fortuner 2.8 GD6
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    Everybody needs to believe in something.... I believe I will have another Beer!

    Travel Blog: https://since1652.wordpress.com/

  12. #31
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    Default Re: DIY Hilux DC Drawer System - 2015

    Quote Originally Posted by Papsak View Post
    Say whaaaat?
    After working 4 months overseas, 10 weeks in sunny SA fly past like you wouldn't believe it!

  13. #32
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    Question Autodesk 123D??

    This is such an impressive build, I think the thread deserves to be revived! Besides, I have some questions about Autodesk 123D:
    • I've seen many comments saying it's not available anymore, but I still see many links for downloading it as well. Do you know if it's still available?
    • I can see the ConnectIt pieces in your drawing, so does Autodesk 123D recognise them as something you can use in the design process or how did you manage to get them to show in your drawing?

    I would really like to try and make myself a box for my fridge out of ConnectIt and aluminium plate. I already have a packing system, but it's made out of steel square tube and marine ply, and is quite heavy to load and unload. I first want to make a little box for a solar controller and maybe fuses, etc, for my one rear footwell, just to see if I can manage to make something!
    There is only one...


  14. #33
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    Default Re: Autodesk 123D??

    I think 123D has been replaced by TinkerCAD. Try that. I think I just used a block for the ConnectIt... No special part.

  15. #34
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    Smile Re: Autodesk 123D??

    Quote Originally Posted by SpaceAce View Post
    I think 123D has been replaced by TinkerCAD. Try that. I think I just used a block for the ConnectIt... No special part.
    Thank you, I actually did find 123D on the Softonic website and downloaded it, but when I tried installing it, it said I was trying to use a 32bit installer on my 64bit OS. There was only one download button and no mention of 32 or 64bit, although I did have a hunch that I might run into problems when I saw the 32 as part of the filename...
    I'll give TinkerCAD a try tonight!
    There is only one...


  16. #35
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    Default Re: DIY Hilux DC Drawer System - 2015

    Quote Originally Posted by SpaceAce View Post
    I purchased a 2006 Hilux D-4D 4x4 at the end of 2014 and immediately ran off to Gerbers 4x4 and had a canopy fitted. This involved selling off the old canopy to the dealer that sold me the vehicle, and then selling the roll bar on Gumtree so that I could replace it with a custom built roll bar that didn't sacrifice access from the sides of the vehicle.



    Scouring the 4x4Community Forum I found a lot of really great posts on various DIY drawer systems, and finally settled on the one built by UtataNtaka. What an awesome job, and serious kudos! If my build in any way looks great, then its thanks to his hard work and sharing in the forum.

    The design I'm referring to is this one.

    I reverse engineered the design using the Hilux dimensions and photos from the forum and then proceeded to design the whole system in AutoDesk 123D (which is an awesome and free design tool).



    You can download the file here.

    The system uses ConnectIt components and aluminium from Non Ferrous Metals (NFM). ConnectIt can be bought from Maizey's, but they gave me a long story about supply problems and other excuses. NFM now also sell the components, and I'd recommend you get them there when buying the aluminium.

    Connect-It
    Units Description Unit price Total price
    36 25mm Std SQ Brace 7.88 226.94
    9 25mm Ind SQ Corner 9.99 71.93
    8 25mm Ind SQ 3-Way 14.90 95.36
    7 25mm Ind SQ 4-Way 19.96 111.78
    8 25mm Std SQ End Cap 1.75 11.20

    Total R589.62

    Aluminium
    Units Description Unit price Total price
    2 2500 x 1250 x 2mm Aluminium Sheet 800.00 1600.00
    2 6m lengths of 50mm x 3.0mm Aluminium Equal Angle 330.00 660.00
    1 6m length of 38mm x 3.0mm Aluminium Equal Angle 245.70 245.70
    1 6m length of 25.4mm x 1.58mm Aluminium Equal Angle 80.00 80.00
    6 6m length of 25.0mm x 1.5mm Aluminium Square Tube 147.00 882.00

    Total R3467.70

    My design puts aluminium cladding around the sides, securely enclosing stuff in (so it can't be stolen), and also preventing things falling in from the back and sides. I wanted a second aluminium sheet so that I could make a box to put in the left hand drawer, for use when I didn't want to use the Wolf Packs / Ammo boxes, and when I had normal shopping/bags/suit cases. You could probably save R1000 by reducing your order to 1 sheet and dropping the 38mm angle.

    I used my trusty Triton workcentre to make all the aluminium cuts. Its noisy... wear ear protection and safety goggles... and remember that it can get hot... and aluminium conducts electricity...


    First I cut the 50mm angle to make the drawers. Note the orientation of the overlap... it's important, or the boxes will sit skew.


    Next I made all the tubing cuts using the dimensions in the AutoDesk design (it already compensates for ConnectIt spacing).


    To ensure you get the most out of each piece of tube and aluminium sheet, consider using MaxCut which is an awesome piece of free South African software. I think I ended up with only about 30cm of waste tubing.

    Laying everything out, it looks like were making progress (the fun is just beginning...)


    I chose to rivet everything in place using 12mm x 4.8mm countersunk rivets I bought at Acorn Fasteners.


    Once the frame was put together it looked like this.



    And once I added in the side panels (using smaller countersunk rivets) and slides (from Furnlock and Slide) it looked like this. Mounting the slides took some creativity, especially the middle ones... where I used these from Gelmar.

    For the slides I used the 7330 Heavy Duty slides which go up to 1m extended. 2 pairs cost me R668. The 1m length means that the back ammo box won't be fully exposed and can't be lifted out without removing the middle box... but the premium in price to go to the 9330 or 9331 was very hard to justify. I also purchased the paddle handles at Furnlock...6203 (without lock) - R117 and 6204 (with lock) - R123.

    I bought a sheet of plain of shutter ply (18mm, 2400 x 1200 - R344 - the one with the green edging) from Builders Warehouse after taking to a few people. Although many people on the forum seem to think this may be a bad move in the long run, I'm prepared to give it a go and see if marine ply is really worth the excessive premium. While at Builders I also bought some Woodoc 50 marine sealer (1l - R200), a 2l tin of Genkem and a 2.5m length of aluminium u channel/board profile (R73). I cut out the boards for the front doors, routed out the handles, sealed them and finally carpeted them with plain old acoustic carpeting from Chamdor in North Riding. The carpet is really cheap (R27 per meter... I think I bought 5m just to make sure) and glues down very well with the Genkem. I'm glad I used the real Genkem... works like a dream.



    You will notice a 3mm MDF spacer in the next image. This is to ensure that when the base for the fridge goes in, that there isn't any sagging.


    Notice the u channel that has been hammered onto the top of the door so that the carpet won't be scuffed.

    With the base in place it looks like this. Notice the eye-bolt in the picture. I plan to use these as mounting points to keep a fridge in place.


    Fridge panel off (before I put in the base for the fridge)


    Next I got to work on cutting out panels for the top of the system. These were also routed out to ensure a nice jigsaw fit, and sealed and carpeted in the same way as the drawers (although only carpeted on the side that shows).


    Here all the pieces are in place. The ammo box slide is standing up against the garage door. Notice the brackets I made and put in place so that this main panel can be screwed down onto the frame and can't be lifted. So when the lock is locked, you won't be able to access that compartment. I've also carpeted the smaller angles to accommodate the 2 tables. In hindsight, I should have used unequal angles so that when a table is inserted with the legs down, they don't sag and get caught up in the drawer below. More on the tables next.


    First thing was to cut the legs and round the edges. I used a normal TCT routing bit to route out the bolt channels. I then cut some blocks out of ply and hammered in a T-Nut. The tightening nuts are screw feet from Gelmar, normally used to make sure a tables legs are balanced.


    Attaching the legs.




    Put together with ConnectIts, rivited and table top in place, it looks like this.

    I went for short legs (60cm) so that the tables are at a comfortable height for sitting at.

    Where I could I used Sika Maxx-Tack to join panels to tubes, just for extra strength and vibration dampening.

    I still need to mount the whole system to the load bin, but for that I'm going to use the technique suggested in this forum post. Here the system is attached by bolting through the wheel arches, and I like this approach.

    Final system looks like this.



    The tables slide in perfectly, and I've attached handles from Gelmar so that they are easy to remove. When I close the tailgate, the back of the system is against the back of the load bin, and the handles on the tables touch the tailgate... so it's a snug fit.

    I hope this helps someone. If you have any questions or suggestions, shoot.
    To revive an old thread... What did you use to mount the back-to-back central drawer slides? That link to Gelmar no longer works and I'm having the same issue on a system I'm building... Thanks!

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