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  1. #1
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    Default Suzuki New Grand Vitara 2008+ Repairs & Modifications

    This thread will serve as a common repository for all parts, technical information and mods for the Suzuki New Grand Vitara 2008 models onwards. Please feel free to include information on anything that you have done to enhance your GV experience!

    This should make it easier for all members to find and access information for the various vehicles which has been previously posted.

    It would be great if everybody could include the following information when posting :

    - Vehicle Model and Year, e.g. GV 3.2V6 2008

    - Make and Part numbers, cost, month and year purchased, and whether recommended or not - i.e. would you do it again!

    When posting, please title your post in a way which makes it easy to identify - for example :

    Drivetrain - Transfer case - Front Prop Shaft Oil Seal Replacement, or,

    Oils - Transmission - ATF replacement.

    And please include any how-to info which may help others who want to do the same in the future.

    Thanks everyone - this should be a great help for us all!


    ************************************************** ************************************************** ************************************************** ***************


    2008 Suzuki Grand Vitara 3.2V6 Transfer Case Front Propshaft Oil Seal Replacement

    One of the Grand Vitara's little wear and tear items is the transfer case front oil seal. When this wears out you will notice an oil spray under the vehicle by the transfer case underneath the body. Mine has been spraying for a while, and I finally got a chance to do the repair over the Christmas break.

    To do this job, you will need:

    a jack
    axle stands
    chocks for the rear wheels
    ratchet set with an E10 Tx female socket for the prop shaft Tx bolts
    Click image for larger version. 

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    3/8" male socket to remove the transfer case drain and fill plugs
    long-nose Circlip pliers
    Wooden/plastic hammer
    very thin flat screwdriver (4mm) , and large flat screwdriver (10mm)
    container to catch oil
    blue loctite
    Suzuki special tool for seal replacement (stiff shampoo lid diameter 53mm)
    Click image for larger version. 

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    assistant with phone camera

    1.5L transfer gear oil - I use the Castrol EPX 80W-90 GL5 (best to have at least 2L) (Cost R 30 each)

    Suzuki SZ09283-40037-000 - 002565/Seal front output shaft (Cost R122)
    Rubber O-Ring outer diameter approx 27mm, thickness 2.5mm
    Circlip inner diameter 23mm
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    Time : 3 hours

    Make sure handbrake is on, and jack up the front of the car so both wheels are off the ground and support with axle stands. Put chocks in front and behind each rear wheel.

    Make sure you can loosen Transfer case filler plug, and then undo transfer case drain plug, and drain transfer case oil. Try to catch transfer case drain plug before it lands in drain container :-) ...

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Undo the Tx nuts holding the prop shaft in the transfer case output flange using the E10 Tx socket. I marked mine before removal so I could put them back in the same place again. I loosened three, and then had my assistant put the 4WD selector in N, and the gear shift in N, then I could rotate the prop shaft to make the other three bolts accessible, then put the vehicle back in D, and 4WD back in 4H to lock the prop shaft again.

    Once they are all removed you can push the prop-shaft towards the engine and remove it from the flange. I then tied it out of the way so I could work on the flange.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    To remove the output flange from the output shaft is a little tricky, and this is where the assistant with phone camera is invaluable - it is very difficult to see directly into the flange because of the transmission support - I used the camera in video mode so that I could see what I was doing in the flange.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Remove the circlip with the circlip pliers. Once that was off I still could not remove the flange, and realised there is a magnetic washer which slipped into the circlip groove and was blocking removal. Click image for larger version. 

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    I managed to pry it out using a very thin screwdriver. Once the washer was out, I could rotate the flange and knock it forwards and off the output shaft gradually using a piece of wood. The old rubber O-ring came out with the flange.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Once removed I could see the state of the old oil seal - it did not even look like the new one as the outer lip was worn away - hence the leaking! I pried it out gently using the large screwdriver, cleaned up around the shaft, and readied the new seal for installation by placing it in position, and then using my "special tool" for seating it. I found a stiff plastic shampoo lid which exactly matched the stiff outer diameter of the oil seal, and by placing that on the seal and knocking it in with the plastic hammer, effected perfect seating of the new oil seal! Take care not to disturb the lubricant on the inside of the seal which will go onto the flange when it is replaced.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    I also cleaned up the flange, and used a little grease on the surface which would mate with the lip of the new seal. Click image for larger version. 

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    Replaced the flange, seated it properly and then rolled the new rubber O-ring onto the output shaft followed by the magnetic washer, and the new circlip.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Used the phone camera again to make sure that the circlip was seated in it's groove correctly, and then replaced the prop shaft and re-tightened the Tx bolts, and then checked everything was tightened up again.

    Lowered the vehicle slightly to ensure the oil level would reflect correctly, and after replacing the cleaned drain plug with some loctite on the threads, refilled the transfer case oil with 1.5L new oil. If you are refilling directly from the 500ml bottles you will need more than 1.5L because the bottles are horizontal while refilling, making it impossible to empty each bottle. When the fill hole just starts to overflow, the level is good and fill plug can be replaced. clean up spilt oil, replace transfer case protection, and good to go!

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Total cost : R 240 and 3 hours time - next time will be faster!

    Update 01/02/2016:

    A year later and I decided to change the transfer case seal again, just so that I could apply the new oil seal washer as per the Suzuki Technical bulletin Q-JB-030 dated 07/04/2009.

    New parts :

    Transfer Case Front Oil Seal 09283-40037 R117.96 ex VAT
    Circlip 08331-3124A R16.86 ex VAT
    O-ring 09280-24010 R32.67 ex VAT
    Front Output Shaft Washer 29170-80k00 R157.91 ex VAT
    3 x 500ml Castrol EP90 80w-90 GEAR OIL R150

    Click image for larger version. 

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    New parts at the top, old parts at the bottom .....

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    What's the difference? The new washer has a lip on it which makes sure that the O-ring remains seated where it should on the transfer case output shaft and should help stopping the oil leakage from the transfer case.

    On newer models there is apparently also a nut on the end of the output shaft which replaces the circlip.

    So, same procedure as above, and put everything back together again - I must say it even feels that the drive shaft flange is sitting better (tighter) on the shaft....

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Refilled oil and we're all good to go, and hopefully I wont be doing that again within the next five years :-)
    Same procedure as above
    Last edited by daveysmith; 2016/02/03 at 02:31 PM. Reason: Adding New Information

    Suzi Blue 2008 Nocturne Blue Suzuki Grand Vitara 3.2 V6
    Dobinson's 40mm suspension, Air Lift 1000 60902 Kit, 16" Hyundai Tucson rims, 235/70R16 General Grabber AT3 tyres
    Wizerd rock sliders, radiator, sump and diff plates, Frontrunner RoofRack, NL 2nd Battery Box, Llumar sun protection
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  2. #2
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    Default

    Nice write up! Looks easy enough with the right tools and liquids to keep cool

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  4. #3
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    Default

    Nicely done. I had mine replaced by the dealer for R1500.
    2015 Isuzu KB250 D/C 4x4 HO LE - Mine


  5. #4
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    Default

    Thanjs guys....Learnt a few new things under the Suzi

    Suzi Blue 2008 Nocturne Blue Suzuki Grand Vitara 3.2 V6
    Dobinson's 40mm suspension, Air Lift 1000 60902 Kit, 16" Hyundai Tucson rims, 235/70R16 General Grabber AT3 tyres
    Wizerd rock sliders, radiator, sump and diff plates, Frontrunner RoofRack, NL 2nd Battery Box, Llumar sun protection
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  6. #5
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    Default

    Thanks for posting! You should compile all your posts and publish a DIY owners manual for the GV. If I may add, one should ensure that the flange bolts are tightened on both ends if the prop shaft while you are down there, else you might land yourself in the same predicament that I experienced in Zambia a while ago.
    Now: Land Rover D4 SDV6 SE 4x4
    Platkar: BMW M6 convertible 4.4L V8 Twin Turbo power
    Ex: Mercedes ML 500 4x4 with LR
    Ex: Ford Ranger Wildtrak bitdi 10spd 4x4
    Ex: Suzuki GV 3.2 V6 Legend

  7. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kierie View Post
    Thanks for posting! You should compile all your posts and publish a DIY owners manual for the GV. If I may add, one should ensure that the flange bolts are tightened on both ends if the prop shaft while you are down there, else you might land yourself in the same predicament that I experienced in Zambia a while ago.
    Hey Kierie... yes indeed...in fact I was thinking we GV owners should compile a new technical thread listing parts/accessories/ prices/ recommendations / how tos specifically for our vehicles as an easy - to - access info archive.

    Could be grouped for example ...

    2008-2011 GV 3.2V6

    Drivetrain/transfer case front oil seal

    Part type... part no. ...bought from. .. cost ...

    How to replace it yourself....


    Suspension....

    Part type...part no...

    Etc.... must think about that...

    Would be a nice place to group info also about mods and costs....

    Suzi Blue 2008 Nocturne Blue Suzuki Grand Vitara 3.2 V6
    Dobinson's 40mm suspension, Air Lift 1000 60902 Kit, 16" Hyundai Tucson rims, 235/70R16 General Grabber AT3 tyres
    Wizerd rock sliders, radiator, sump and diff plates, Frontrunner RoofRack, NL 2nd Battery Box, Llumar sun protection
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  8. #7
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    Default Grand Vitara front and rear brakes

    I have to share this, I feel the dealers are over charging us for brakes which can be done by anyone with a wheel spanner, jack, number 12 wrench and a bit of time.

    The GV brake pads can be replaced by Ferodo's FDB4060 for fronts and FDB1693 on the rear. And they are MUCH cheaper from a parts shop like Midas, than the dealers

    Front Brake pads:
    Dealers: R1600 Suzuki OEM pads
    Midas: R580 Ferodo FDB4060 pads

    Rear Brake pads:
    Dealer: R1000 Suzuki OEM pads
    Midas: R680 Ferodo FDB1693 pads

    I also found out the Alternator is a 130A unit and the battery is either a 45Ah, 54Ah or 63Ah unit. You can put in a 90Ah unit if you want.

    Glad I can share
    From another post
    2015 Isuzu KB250 D/C 4x4 HO LE - Mine


  9. #8
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    Weet nie of ons ook sommer die "How To" ook hier moet insit nie maar hier is 'n ou kleintjie

    Auxiliary input on Suzuki Grand Vitara 2009 (and probably the Suzuki SX4 as well)

    Here is a list of stuff you will require:
    1) Stereo audio cable. Length depends on where you want to place your input. I used about 700mm.
    2) 3.5mm Stereo audio panel mount socket.
    3) 2 x 4way 2.54mm female header strips.
    4) 1.5kOhm resistor
    5) Soldering iron and solder
    6) Heat shrink and insulation tape.
    7) 3.5mm audio extension cable from the socket to the player.

    I drilled a hole into the back of the small cubby behind the gear lever and installed the socket in there. You can't see it and its nice to hide the pod from prying eyes. AND you can remove the pod when the car eventually goes for service.

    To remove the trimmings you need a small flat screw driver. Push the screw driver under the silver trimmings between the seats and slowly start lifting it. The trimmings clip into the console so its quick to remove. Remove the screws from the radio AND the climate control part. That whole part is fixed together. Oh and put something like a towel between the console and the gear lever so it doesn't scratch.

    I found the pinout of the connector in the back on some other forum somewhere and tried it and it worked VERY well. (Cant find the link now and saved the pinout on the home PC and I'm at work atm)

    BUT

    From memory here is a circuit. The left and right could be swapped but it could be correct aswell...

    This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 870x316.

    On you radio you just press the CD selection button or mode on the steering wheel and it will go to the aux after the CD.

    BTW I think the SX4 uses the same radio so it is entirely possible to do this on the SX4 aswell.

    Any questions, ask me


    Cheers
    From an older post
    2015 Isuzu KB250 D/C 4x4 HO LE - Mine


  10. #9
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    Default DIY Drawers

    I made a drawer system for the GV. It has 2 drawers and a small subwoofer in the back. It measures 1m x 0.7m with the drawers being 500mm wide and 700mm deep, the rails can take 50kg each so 100kg per drawer. Its mostly made of shutter ply as it was both lighter and stronger than supawood. The drawers them selves are 1.2mm thick galvinised sheet metal. This thing is not light, I guess about 40kg and akward to get into the GV...

    On the floor:
    I test fitted everything and made sure nothing interferes with each other
    This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 1024x768.

    This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 1024x768.



    After some cut outs and sanding and painting and glueing down a non slip matt, it looked like this
    This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 1024x768.

    What I think is unique here is that I don't have to open the drawer everytime to gain access to the stuff inside I can just lift the lid
    This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 1024x768.

    I put it in the GV and started packing my stuff in there
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    This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 1024x768.

    And I added a rubber strap the side and put my bottle jack and fire extinguisher in there
    This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 1024x768.

    I have 2 anchor points on the back side
    This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 1024x768.

    So this is what it looks like in the back of my GV
    This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 1024x768.

    It needs another coat of paint and some lacquer but I am very happy with it.
    Another older post
    2015 Isuzu KB250 D/C 4x4 HO LE - Mine


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    Default Kierie's prop shaft bolts

    GV owners take note:

    I had to fix my GV front prop assembly on the side of the road in Zambia, a few days ago. The prop shaft bolts came loose and I lost four out of six on a bad gravel track outside Lusaka. This left me with no forward propulsion in D and I had to engage CDL to get onto the verge. This is because in normal D hi range, the GV will send the torque to the wheels with the most free spinning momentum. No front prop, no propulsion. CDL forced the remaining driving wheels to compensate and provide forward propulsion. The first indication that the front prop came loose, was a loud knocking sound underneath the gear shifter and a terrible "death wobble" when the prop was suspended by two bolts only.

    BUT I had the front prop and oil seal checked as part of a general service before this trip and the Suzuki dealership mech clearly never tightened the bolts after this was done.

    As luck would have it, there are almost as much Suzukis in Zambia as Toyotas, thanks to Jan Japan motor importers. I sent a bush mechie that I found at a nearby mission station into Lusaka by public transport and he returned with new bolts. Fitted and tightened properly in two minutes. The whole ordeal lasted seven hours, due to him having to travel to Lusaka and back. Cost me R1600 for 8 new bolts, transport money and gratuity.

    So.... Check your front prop bolts, where it enters the front diff coming from the transfer case.

    I now carry spares.

    The reason I don't post this in the Suzuki problems thread, is because this was solely caused by shoddy workmanship from the Suzuki dealership. I will take this up with them upon my return to SA.

    Kierie.
    Something from Kierie
    Last edited by Samaya; 2015/01/30 at 12:19 PM.
    2015 Isuzu KB250 D/C 4x4 HO LE - Mine


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    Default The GV tyre questions

    Which tyre's fit on your GV?

    Adding bigger tyres to your GV has a few benefits. Firstly it lifts your GV, great for going offroad. Don't expect a 5" lift, its not that that impressive... 5mm to 20mm (for really big tyres) is more realistic. It doesn't sound like much but you only need a rock sticking 1mm out too much to damage your vehicle.

    Bigger tyres will have a higher sidewall. This lets you deflate your tyres to have a bigger footprint overall. This in turn allows for better grip in offroad situations. Mud, sand and rocks. Higher sidewall for onroad driving can help improve ride quality but will not be very noticeable. What it will also allow is for slower cornering as the tyre now gives way under the pressure of the vehicle and allows more body roll.

    Bigger tyres will influence your fuel consumption - negatively. You will use more fuel. It won't kill the consumption but expect 1-3l/100km more (before bigger tyres: 9l/100km - after bigger tyres: 10-12l/100km)

    Some larger tyre sizes are cheaper than stock sizes.

    The Warnings:
    For vehicles under warranty you cannot go over 3% on the tyre size or you will lose your warranty on the drive system (Diff's, prop shafts, transfer case, gearbox, etc...)

    You will also have reduced braking and in some cases, with much bigger tyres, your ABS and ESP will not function as advertised by the factory. This affects your traction control not only offroad but on road as well. In other words, your GV will take longer to stop, will not apply ABS effectively and when your wheels are slipping on a wet road it will take longer to adjust to the situation.

    GV's come out with 2 stock sizes.
    Stock 17": 225/65 R17. Pre-facelift 2.4 manual and auto. Facelift Dune 2.4
    Stock 18": 225/60 R18. Discontinued 3.2 V6 Auto. Facelift Summit 2.4

    There are no stock 16" rims for the GV. They have to be bought from companies selling after market rims.
    The rim is a 5 hole with a 114.3mm PCD. Centre bore of 60.1mm and an offset of 45mm. Nut 12 x 1.25

    What will fit:
    15" will not fit. The brake calipers are too big and the rim will not go over it. So anything from 16" to 20" can fit depending on the tyres used.

    Green = will fit and in warranty
    Orange = Will fit but warranty might be affected
    Red = Might fit, no warranty. You might experience rubbing

    17":
    235-65R17 (1.79% bigger); 225-70R17(3.11% bigger); 225-75R17(6.21% bigger); 235-70R17(5.04% bigger); 245-65R17(3.59% bigger); 245-70R17(6.97% bigger); 245-75R17(10.35% don't bother)

    18":
    225-65R18(3.07% Bigger); 235-70R18(8.11% don't bother); 245-65R18(6.67% bigger); 245-70R18 (10.04% don't bother)
    235-65R18(4.88% bigger); 225-70R18(6.61% bigger); 255-55R18(1.44% bigger)

    16":
    225-65R16(-3.51% TOO SMALL); 225-70R16(-0.4% smaller); 225-75R16(2.71% bigger); 235-65R16(-1.71% smaller); 235-70R16(1.53% bigger); 235-75R16(4.78% bigger);245-65R16(0.08% bigger); 245-70R16(3.47% bigger); 245-75R16(6.85% bigger); 255-60R16(-1.64% Smaller); 255-65R16(1.88% bigger); 255-70R16(5.4% bigger)

    If you want to check your tyre size use this site:
    http://www.1010tires.com/Tools/Tire-Size-Calculator

    If anyone wants me to change anything, add something or I typed anything incorrect, let me know please. Hopefully this does help someone
    Last edited by Samaya; 2018/02/14 at 10:48 AM.
    2015 Isuzu KB250 D/C 4x4 HO LE - Mine


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  14. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Samaya View Post
    Which tyre's fit on your GV?

    Hopefully this does help someone
    All you ever wanted to know about GV tyres but were too scared to ask ☺

    Great info...thank you!

    Suzi Blue 2008 Nocturne Blue Suzuki Grand Vitara 3.2 V6
    Dobinson's 40mm suspension, Air Lift 1000 60902 Kit, 16" Hyundai Tucson rims, 235/70R16 General Grabber AT3 tyres
    Wizerd rock sliders, radiator, sump and diff plates, Frontrunner RoofRack, NL 2nd Battery Box, Llumar sun protection
    Metalian Genie Trailer

  15. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by daveysmith View Post
    All you ever wanted to know about GV tyres but were too scared to ask ☺

    Great info...thank you!
    Lots of typing that...
    2015 Isuzu KB250 D/C 4x4 HO LE - Mine


  16. #14
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    Default

    Hallo Samaya
    Dankie vir al die inligting veral mbt. die installasie van 'n "AUX" punt
    Ek het ook so 'n bietjie rondgekrap op die net en soortgelyke idees gesien.
    Net een vraag (ek weet jy het genoem dat die tekening uit jou kop is) volgens jou skets het die prop agter die radio 8 punte maar ek kry inligting vir 'n prop met net 6 punte.
    Sal maar seker moet oopmaak en kyk ne
    Louis Pretorius
    Amarok Bitdi 4 motion ( myne )
    Suzuki Swift Sport ( vrou s'n )
    Jurgens Xcape



  17. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by tierboskat View Post
    Hallo Samaya
    Dankie vir al die inligting veral mbt. die installasie van 'n "AUX" punt
    Ek het ook so 'n bietjie rondgekrap op die net en soortgelyke idees gesien.
    Net een vraag (ek weet jy het genoem dat die tekening uit jou kop is) volgens jou skets het die prop agter die radio 8 punte maar ek kry inligting vir 'n prop met net 6 punte.
    Sal maar seker moet oopmaak en kyk ne
    Dis definitief 8 punte. Ek het nou die dag my GV se radio aux op gekoppel. En die tekening is toe nog reg uit die kop uit ook
    2015 Isuzu KB250 D/C 4x4 HO LE - Mine


  18. #16
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    Default

    Samaya , dankie vir die inligting maar net nog 'n laaste vraag.. van watter kant af moet die linker en regter punte gedoen word ? Is daar 'n merk of wat ook al ?
    Louis Pretorius
    Amarok Bitdi 4 motion ( myne )
    Suzuki Swift Sport ( vrou s'n )
    Jurgens Xcape



  19. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by tierboskat View Post
    Samaya , dankie vir die inligting maar net nog 'n laaste vraag.. van watter kant af moet die linker en regter punte gedoen word ? Is daar 'n merk of wat ook al ?
    As jy die radio uit haal moet die konnektor aan die regterkant wees en die radio regop. Dan is die konnektor reg georienteer en die skets wys presies wat jy sien. So regs bo op die tekening is dan regs bo op die radio.
    2015 Isuzu KB250 D/C 4x4 HO LE - Mine


  20. #18
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    Moewiese dankie.....sal die naweek die ding doen.
    Louis Pretorius
    Amarok Bitdi 4 motion ( myne )
    Suzuki Swift Sport ( vrou s'n )
    Jurgens Xcape



  21. #19
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    Thanks, Samaya, for the great info on tyres! Really helpful!

    Im debating swapping 225/65R17 for 235/70R16. Main reason for that is to try and improve on ride quality in an attempt to make Swambo happy... well happier;]

    I was wondering how noticeable that improvement would actually be and how much worst the handling and body roll would become? Basically is it worth the hassle and expense of getting new rims and tyres?

  22. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by tiff View Post
    Thanks, Samaya, for the great info on tyres! Really helpful!

    Im debating swapping 225/65R17 for 235/70R16. Main reason for that is to try and improve on ride quality in an attempt to make Swambo happy... well happier;]

    I was wondering how noticeable that improvement would actually be and how much worst the handling and body roll would become? Basically is it worth the hassle and expense of getting new rims and tyres?
    I doubt you would notice a BIG improvement in ride quality. Ride comfort is slightly improved but the main advantage comes when going offroad. You will have higher sidewalls to protect your rims and you can deflate the tyres more.
    There will be a small amount of extra body roll so you will need to take corners a little bit slower. But honestly, I doubt you will notice any of this.

    For a bit better ride, deflate your tyres by 0.1 bar and see how it feels then. You will have to test by inflating or deflating the tyres.
    2015 Isuzu KB250 D/C 4x4 HO LE - Mine


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