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  1. #81
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    I need some help / input from you guys please. Especially Samaya, Kierie, DaveySmith and others owners of the 3.2 v6.

    I've recently (3 weeks ago) bought a Suzuki Grand Vitara 3.2 v6. Picked it up in Pretoria and drove it back home to Cape Town. Stopped on our way back to Cape Town to do some light 4x4 at Karoo National Park, actaully it was more off roading and less 4x4ing. During the next week I realised a rattling noise (like a chain rattling against metal) everytime I engage the gearbox and driving off (or reversing) right after starting the engine from cold. It only lasts for about 1 minute max then no weird noises anymore. Is this normal or might something be wrong? timing chain be loose? Which Suzuki Dealer around Cape Town is highly recommended?

    The next weekend (last weekend) I took the SGV out to Atlantis Dunes. I had such a good time, really had some bonding time with the gearbox and got to experiment with all the available settings (for the first time). Once I understood everything and tried different combinations for different scenarios I really had a blast and realised how chuffed I am with this vehicle. Why had I never bought it sooner!?

    But then, after an afternoon of rather responsible fun I damaged the front whilst going down a dune with a last minute ditch - although being well aware of this (and similar) risks, it completely caught me by surprise as it wasn't even a major dune. Got out and saw water raining from behind the cracked and broken bumper. My heart dropped through the floor. I even saw parts in my rear view mirror (LHS headlamp washing nozzle). Then I realised it was (luckily only) the headlamp washing unit nozzle that popped out (hence the water). But upon closer look I noticed the green droplets from the bottom of the radiator as well.

    Long story short the radiator isn't losing water level - not eve slightly, the vehicle doesn't even heat up a little more than usual, but yet everytime I dry off the radiator a day later the droplets re-appear - no marks on the ground. Definitley not an overflow issue and the radiator itself nor any pipes are broken or bent.

    So upon what seems like my 20th inspection I only now realised that the bottom of the radiator might have shifted backwards from the impact and the radiator might have cracked slightly somewhere, as it seems the moist is coming from behind the radiator - between the fan and the radiator (where I cannot see anything). It seems the mounting rubbers might be out of their pots and that the radiator now faces slightly downwards because of the impact below, but I'm not sure as I have never checked it out before in order to notice a difference.

    Is it possible you could perhaps share a picture of what yours looks like?

    Luckily my insurance covers me even though I go off road and the claim are being processed. I just want to make sure that they pick up all the damage and that I don't have long lasting radiator issues.
    Last edited by RASSIE-WP; 2015/08/18 at 08:39 PM. Reason: Clarifications
    officially & physically carless
    Kumho KL71 205/80 R16 MT
    2019 Husqvarna Vitpilen 701
    ex 2009 Suzuki Grand Vitara 3.2 V6
    ex 2008 BMW 125i Coupe M-Sport
    ex 2000 Opel Astra CS 1.6
    ex 1988 Honda Balade 1.6i sport
    ex 1999 Yamaha TZR 125 Racing Sport

  2. #82
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    car6006- how is she looking now?

    Question: will these work ok on my GV? "Orginal JK rims and tyres. Brand new, 100% tread, no mileage as they were replaced the day I purchased my Jeep. 5 tyres 245/75R17 and rims":
    http//www.4x4community.co.za/classifieds/showproduct.php/product/33020/title/orginal-jk-rims-and-tyres/cat/25
    2010 Grand Vitara 2.4 man, Stofpad radiator & belly plates & lift kit, 245/60R17 Firestone Destinations, Tucson rims
    SWAMBO: '96 Defender 90- lotsa bits fitted for adventures; '09 Disco 4 HSE, new turbos etc., BF Goodrichs and offroad trim; Defender (puma) game drive vehicle, offroad "kitchen" trailer

  3. #83
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    Quote Originally Posted by adiebear View Post
    car6006- how is she looking now?

    Question: will these work ok on my GV? "Orginal JK rims and tyres. Brand new, 100% tread, no mileage as they were replaced the day I purchased my Jeep. 5 tyres 245/75R17 and rims":
    http//www.4x4community.co.za/classifieds/showproduct.php/product/33020/title/orginal-jk-rims-and-tyres/cat/25
    Those rims won't fit on the GV. The PCD is different. Do yourself a favour and go back the the first page of this thread. I posted a comprehensive list of tyre sizes that will fit the GV including the rim size for the GV.

    I have 2006 Jeep Cherokee KJ Steel rims on my GV but I need a hub centric spacer on them to keep them centred. Do not go smaller than 16" rims as it won't fit over the brake calipers.
    2015 Isuzu KB250 D/C 4x4 HO LE - Mine


  4. #84
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    Quote Originally Posted by RASSIE-WP View Post
    I need some help / input from you guys please. Especially Samaya, Kierie, DaveySmith and others owners of the 3.2 v6.

    I've recently (3 weeks ago) bought a Suzuki Grand Vitara 3.2 v6. Picked it up in Pretoria and drove it back home to Cape Town. Stopped on our way back to Cape Town to do some light 4x4 at Karoo National Park, actaully it was more off roading and less 4x4ing. During the next week I realised a rattling noise (like a chain rattling against metal) everytime I engage the gearbox and driving off (or reversing) right after starting the engine from cold. It only lasts for about 1 minute max then no weird noises anymore. Is this normal or might something be wrong? timing chain be loose? Which Suzuki Dealer around Cape Town is highly recommended?

    The next weekend (last weekend) I took the SGV out to Atlantis Dunes. I had such a good time, really had some bonding time with the gearbox and got to experiment with all the available settings (for the first time). Once I understood everything and tried different combinations for different scenarios I really had a blast and realised how chuffed I am with this vehicle. Why had I never bought it sooner!?

    But then, after an afternoon of rather responsible fun I damaged the front whilst going down a dune with a last minute ditch - although being well aware of this (and similar) risks, it completely caught me by surprise as it wasn't even a major dune. Got out and saw water raining from behind the cracked and broken bumper. My heart dropped through the floor. I even saw parts in my rear view mirror (LHS headlamp washing nozzle). Then I realised it was (luckily only) the headlamp washing unit nozzle that popped out (hence the water). But upon closer look I noticed the green droplets from the bottom of the radiator as well.

    Long story short the radiator isn't losing water level - not eve slightly, the vehicle doesn't even heat up a little more than usual, but yet everytime I dry off the radiator a day later the droplets re-appear - no marks on the ground. Definitley not an overflow issue and the radiator itself nor any pipes are broken or bent.

    So upon what seems like my 20th inspection I only now realised that the bottom of the radiator might have shifted backwards from the impact and the radiator might have cracked slightly somewhere, as it seems the moist is coming from behind the radiator - between the fan and the radiator (where I cannot see anything). It seems the mounting rubbers might be out of their pots and that the radiator now faces slightly downwards because of the impact below, but I'm not sure as I have never checked it out before in order to notice a difference.

    Is it possible you could perhaps share a picture of what yours looks like?

    Luckily my insurance covers me even though I go off road and the claim are being processed. I just want to make sure that they pick up all the damage and that I don't have long lasting radiator issues.
    I cannot remember how the radiator is fitted to the GV. You should however check that all the small diameter steel pipes running under the radiator are also still connected and not broken. Remember your aircon radiator is also mounted there. Before you go playing again, get bash plates from either Stofpad or Wizerd. Those 2 only. I'll try take a picture of the radiator tonight if someone else haven't done so by then.

    These GV's are fantastic vehicles
    Last edited by Samaya; 2015/08/19 at 09:20 AM.
    2015 Isuzu KB250 D/C 4x4 HO LE - Mine


  5. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by RASSIE-WP View Post
    I need some help / input from you guys please. Especially Samaya, Kierie, DaveySmith and others owners of the 3.2 v6.

    I've recently (3 weeks ago) bought a Suzuki Grand Vitara 3.2 v6. Picked it up in Pretoria and drove it back home to Cape Town. Stopped on our way back to Cape Town to do some light 4x4 at Karoo National Park, actaully it was more off roading and less 4x4ing. During the next week I realised a rattling noise (like a chain rattling against metal) everytime I engage the gearbox and driving off (or reversing) right after starting the engine from cold. It only lasts for about 1 minute max then no weird noises anymore. Is this normal or might something be wrong? timing chain be loose? Which Suzuki Dealer around Cape Town is highly recommended?

    The next weekend (last weekend) I took the SGV out to Atlantis Dunes. I had such a good time, really had some bonding time with the gearbox and got to experiment with all the available settings (for the first time). Once I understood everything and tried different combinations for different scenarios I really had a blast and realised how chuffed I am with this vehicle. Why had I never bought it sooner!?

    But then, after an afternoon of rather responsible fun I damaged the front whilst going down a dune with a last minute ditch - although being well aware of this (and similar) risks, it completely caught me by surprise as it wasn't even a major dune. Got out and saw water raining from behind the cracked and broken bumper. My heart dropped through the floor. I even saw parts in my rear view mirror (LHS headlamp washing nozzle). Then I realised it was (luckily only) the headlamp washing unit nozzle that popped out (hence the water). But upon closer look I noticed the green droplets from the bottom of the radiator as well.

    Long story short the radiator isn't losing water level - not eve slightly, the vehicle doesn't even heat up a little more than usual, but yet everytime I dry off the radiator a day later the droplets re-appear - no marks on the ground. Definitley not an overflow issue and the radiator itself nor any pipes are broken or bent.

    So upon what seems like my 20th inspection I only now realised that the bottom of the radiator might have shifted backwards from the impact and the radiator might have cracked slightly somewhere, as it seems the moist is coming from behind the radiator - between the fan and the radiator (where I cannot see anything). It seems the mounting rubbers might be out of their pots and that the radiator now faces slightly downwards because of the impact below, but I'm not sure as I have never checked it out before in order to notice a difference.

    Is it possible you could perhaps share a picture of what yours looks like?

    Luckily my insurance covers me even though I go off road and the claim are being processed. I just want to make sure that they pick up all the damage and that I don't have long lasting radiator issues.
    Hi Rassie, sounds like you had a bit too much fun 😎and that you need to fit that very important front bash plate when you are fixed.

    I'm out of town at the moment but will see if I can see them when I get back - it may be difficult without removing the bash plate

    Suzi Blue 2008 Nocturne Blue Suzuki Grand Vitara 3.2 V6
    Dobinson's 40mm suspension, Air Lift 1000 60902 Kit, 16" Hyundai Tucson rims, 235/70R16 General Grabber AT3 tyres
    Wizerd rock sliders, radiator, sump and diff plates, Frontrunner RoofRack, NL 2nd Battery Box, Llumar sun protection
    Metalian Genie Trailer

  6. #86
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    Quote Originally Posted by Samaya View Post
    Those rims won't fit on the GV. The PCD is different. Do yourself a favour and go back the the first page of this thread. I posted a comprehensive list of tyre sizes that will fit the GV including the rim size for the GV.

    I have 2006 Jeep Cherokee KJ Steel rims on my GV but I need a hub centric spacer on them to keep them centred. Do not go smaller than 16" rims as it won't fit over the brake calipers.
    Thank you Samaya
    2010 Grand Vitara 2.4 man, Stofpad radiator & belly plates & lift kit, 245/60R17 Firestone Destinations, Tucson rims
    SWAMBO: '96 Defender 90- lotsa bits fitted for adventures; '09 Disco 4 HSE, new turbos etc., BF Goodrichs and offroad trim; Defender (puma) game drive vehicle, offroad "kitchen" trailer

  7. #87
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    Default Suzuki New Grand Vitara 2008+ Repairs & Modifications

    What Samaya and Dave said +1

    The front bash plate is the most important mod to install if you plan on doing sand driving. It was also the first mod that I fitted after the first lift kit.

    I suspect that you could maybe have bent your radiator backwards slightly and this caused a tiny crack somewhere, which opens up when the heat buildup in the radiator causes the metal to expand. Maybe try some radiator stop leak and see if this (temporarily) solves the coolant sweat problem.
    Last edited by Kierie; 2015/08/20 at 01:05 PM.
    Now: Land Rover D4 SDV6 SE 4x4
    Platkar: BMW M6 convertible 4.4L V8 Twin Turbo power
    Ex: Mercedes ML 500 4x4 with LR
    Ex: Ford Ranger Wildtrak bitdi 10spd 4x4
    Ex: Suzuki GV 3.2 V6 Legend

  8. #88
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    Quote Originally Posted by RASSIE-WP View Post
    I need some help / input from you guys please. Especially Samaya, Kierie, DaveySmith and others owners of the 3.2 v6.
    .

    My response above, Rassie. Strongs! I hope you get it sorted.

    By the way, Ive never had issues with the ESP and TC on sand with my V6, but some okes had voiced some concerns. I enjoy my GV on sand in every aspect. What is your opinion on the sand and dune driving capabilities?
    Now: Land Rover D4 SDV6 SE 4x4
    Platkar: BMW M6 convertible 4.4L V8 Twin Turbo power
    Ex: Mercedes ML 500 4x4 with LR
    Ex: Ford Ranger Wildtrak bitdi 10spd 4x4
    Ex: Suzuki GV 3.2 V6 Legend

  9. #89
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kierie View Post
    My response above, Rassie. Strongs! I hope you get it sorted.

    By the way, Ive never had issues with the ESP and TC on sand with my V6, but some okes had voiced some concerns. I enjoy my GV on sand in every aspect. What is your opinion on the sand and dune driving capabilities?
    Thanks for all the input, guys.

    Just an update on the rattle sound mentioned in my initial post - turns out it was a heat shield (around the branches) that rattles against the exhaust system until the metals heats up and expands to permanently make contact - just to be bent clear from contact - and no rattley sound anymore.. Thanks Suzuki Mekor (Tygervalley).

    To answer Kierie's question (not sure whether this thread is the correct place to elaborate on this, but since you asked):

    Initially arriving on the sand from the tar (after deflating the tyres) but before engaging the diff lock and nor understanding the gearbox, I quickly got myself into a pickle (or three). Something wasn't lekker but couldn't get my finger on it. Then eventually discovered that the ESP is of course still engaged (btw quite impressed how responsive and effective the ESP really works) I learned how CRITICAL it is to disengage the ESP! If not you'll lose power every time the computer cuts out the throttle and subtly apply your brakes automatically when it detects 'unstable conditions' (hahaha 'unstable conditions'... I'll say!).

    I noticed that (as per the user manual) the ESP remains engaged when going from 4H to 4Hlock and also reengages automatically every time coming back from 4Llock to 4Hlock. Hence I had to make sure it was off after every switchover.

    The next challenge was to exactly control the auto gearbox to ensure you are in exactly the correct gear you need to be for each scenario and not finding yourself in the wrong gear in a "compromised" situation - I learned the hard way - the shovel was involved. Then I took some time experimenting with the L, 3, and 4... and of course discovering the A/T power button... my word... the A/T power button!

    This button (like a typical "sport mode") let's you drive THROUGH every gear before shifting (just make sure you don't lift your foot from the throttle as it might still shift if you lay off). This really made the difference in achieving speed / momentum vs torque! I used this button with the gear marked 3 a lot! You'll start off in 1st and then remain in high revs 2 without shifting to 3. Without using the button you are bound to shift to 3 as soon as you are too quick and lay off on the throttle, losing your powerful 2nd gear torque at the point when you need it most.

    I ended up REALLY bonding with the gearbox - to such extent that the gears were dictated around at my every command - and the best thing is how quickly the shift happens with an auto transmission! For a hardcore manual oke, I really fell in love with this gearbox - even now on the tarmac I'm having a ball. Knowing how to have the power you need at your fingertips!

    After the above experience I found myself explaining to friends the following paradigm / metaphor: The engine's power, the gearbox, the low range, the diff lock options and that A/T power button is much like an electric guitarist with his choice of amp channels, the choice of two / three guitar pickups, and a few effects pedals. (and all the settings of each). If you spend the time and get to know your equipment, settings and the range / scope of your sound, it's very possible to achieve with particular combinations the perfect tone for a wide variety sounds or dynamics you'll need in a song / set list.

    The SGV certainly felt like it could accomplish anything, as long as the driver knows how to squeeze out the required tone!

    I cannot wait to go shred some face-melting solos with the SGV again - after fitting that bash plate of course!
    Last edited by RASSIE-WP; 2015/08/20 at 10:47 PM.
    officially & physically carless
    Kumho KL71 205/80 R16 MT
    2019 Husqvarna Vitpilen 701
    ex 2009 Suzuki Grand Vitara 3.2 V6
    ex 2008 BMW 125i Coupe M-Sport
    ex 2000 Opel Astra CS 1.6
    ex 1988 Honda Balade 1.6i sport
    ex 1999 Yamaha TZR 125 Racing Sport

  10. The Following User Says Thank You to RASSIE-WP For This Useful Post:


  11. #90
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    PS. please advise on how to upload pictures - I'm still a noob on here
    Last edited by RASSIE-WP; 2015/08/20 at 06:40 PM.

  12. #91
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    Quote Originally Posted by RASSIE-WP View Post
    PS. please advise on how to upload pictures - I'm still a noob on here

    http://www.4x4community.co.za/forum/...play.php?f=144


    Have look there...Very first sticky thread helps with uploading pics.

  13. #92
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    Quote Originally Posted by RASSIE-WP View Post
    Thanks for all the input, guys.

    Just an update on the rattle sound mentioned in my initial post - turns out it was a heat shield (around the branches) that rattles against the exhaust system until the metals heats up and expands to permanently make contact - just to be bent clear from contact - and no rattley sound anymore.. Thanks Suzuki Mekor (Tygervalley).

    To answer Kierie's question (not sure whether this thread is the correct place to elaborate on this, but since you asked):

    Initially arriving on the sand from the tar (after deflating the tyres) but before engaging the diff lock and nor understanding the gearbox, I quickly got myself into a pickle (or three). Something wasn't lekker but couldn't get my finger on it. Then eventually discovered that the ESP is of course still engaged (btw quite impressed how responsive and effective the ESP really works) I learned how CRITICAL it is to disengage the ESP! If not you'll lose power every time the computer cuts out the throttle and subtly apply your brakes automatically when it detects 'unstable conditions' (hahaha 'unstable conditions'... I'll say!).

    I noticed that (as per the user manual) the ESP remains engaged when going from 4H to 4Hlock and also reengages automatically every time coming back from 4Llock to 4Hlock. Hence I had to make sure it was off after every switchover.

    The next challenge was to exactly control the auto gearbox to ensure you are in exactly the correct gear you need to be for each scenario and not finding yourself in the wrong gear in a "compromised" situation - I learned the hard way - the shovel was involved. Then I took some time experimenting with the L, 3, and 4... and of course discovering the A/T power button... my word... the A/T power button!

    This button (like a typical "sport mode") let's you drive THROUGH every gear before shifting (just make sure you don't lift your foot from the throttle as it might still shift if you lay off). This really made the difference in achieving speed / momentum vs torque! I used this button with the gear marked 3 a lot! You'll start off in 1st and then remain in high revs 2 without shifting to 3. Without using the button you are bound to shift to 3 as soon as you are too quick and lay off on the throttle, losing your powerful 2nd gear torque at the point when you need it most.

    I ended up REALLY bonding with the gearbox - to such extent that the gears were dictated around at my every command - and the best thing is how quickly the shift happens with an auto transmission! For a hardcore manual oke, I really fell in love with this gearbox - even now on the tarmac I'm having a ball. Knowing how to have the power you need at your fingertips!

    After the above experience I found myself explaining to friends the following paradigm / metaphor: The engine's power, the gearbox, the low range, the diff lock options and that A/T power button is much like an electric guitarist with his choice of amp channels, the choice of two / three guitar pickups, and a few effects pedals. (and all the settings of each). If you spend the time and get to know your equipment, settings and the range / scope of your sound, it's very possible to achieve with particular combinations the perfect tone for a wide variety sounds or dynamics you'll need in a song / set list.

    The SGV certainly felt like it could accomplish anything, as long as the driver knows how to squeeze out the required tone!

    I cannot wait to go shred some face-melting solos with the SGV again - after fitting that bash plate of course!
    Just a note on the A/T button, with it engaged, and you select 2nd gear, it pulls away in second gear.
    Vic

    "We are plain quiet folk and have no use for adventures. Nasty disturbing uncomfortable things! Make you late for dinner!"

    2019 Suzuki Jimny - 235/75R15 M/T's, lifted
    EX 2012 Suzuki Jimny 1.5 - 215R15C's, Steel undies, lifted and locked. - CRASHED
    EX 1984 Suzuki SJ410 - 245/75R15 Muddies, Nissan A15 Motor, OME's - SOLD
    EX 2008 Suzuki Jimny - 215R15C's, Mounty's Rock Sliders, tow-bar
    EX 1996 Jeep Cherokee XJ OME's 30x9.5 A/Ts

  14. #93
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    Sometimes after starting my GV in the mornings, (cold start)ESP warning light would come on for a second. Beginning it was very irritating, search the web for a cure. Read somewhere it can be from the battery. The other day my battery had enough and I purchased a battery from Battery Centre. Wola the yellow message and ping is gone Jin the mornings.
    Last edited by Beker; 2015/08/23 at 09:01 AM.


    Suzuki GV 2.4; 40 mm lift, steel undies, rocksliders, A/T Tyres

  15. #94
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    Yep...ESP very sensitive to battery functionality...as soon as battery drain becomes significant, ESP starts getting worried ....I installed a battery with higher CC rating to hopefully give longer life

    Suzi Blue 2008 Nocturne Blue Suzuki Grand Vitara 3.2 V6
    Dobinson's 40mm suspension, Air Lift 1000 60902 Kit, 16" Hyundai Tucson rims, 235/70R16 General Grabber AT3 tyres
    Wizerd rock sliders, radiator, sump and diff plates, Frontrunner RoofRack, NL 2nd Battery Box, Llumar sun protection
    Metalian Genie Trailer

  16. #95
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    [/QUOTE]

    2008 Suzuki Grand Vitara 3.2V6 Transfer Case Front Propshaft Oil Seal Replacement

    One of the Grand Vitara's little wear and tear items is the transfer case front oil seal. When this wears out you will notice an oil spray under the vehicle by the transfer case underneath the body. Mine has been spraying for a while, and I finally got a chance to do the repair over the Christmas break.

    Total cost : R 240 and 3 hours time - next time will be faster! [/QUOTE]

    Thanks for this post - I'm finding myself right here now. Got a quote from Suzuki Mekor (Bellville) to replace the diff seal as well as drain plug seal. Apparently the O-ring is on back-order from Japan and will only arrive 30 days from order.

    This of course means that the vehicle needs to go in twice (as the parts arrive on different occasions and I am dependent on a vehicle). I should probably (obviously?) not drive the vehicle with low fluid levels - but I'm checking the transfer case dip stick frequently and it seems OK, full in fact - I guess the leakage is still in early stages.

    Further I saw them estimating 5 units (i guess a unit is 30mins) of labour for each. They quoted R186 per unit of labour... The total quote amounts just shy of R3000. Hence my consideration of doing this myself.

    TBH I usually prefer the specialists taking care of these type of things for two reasons: (1.) Someone (other than myself) can be held accountable and (2.) I do not have the time / tools to do this myself.

    Any comments / suggestions?
    Last edited by RASSIE-WP; 2015/11/13 at 09:35 AM.
    officially & physically carless
    Kumho KL71 205/80 R16 MT
    2019 Husqvarna Vitpilen 701
    ex 2009 Suzuki Grand Vitara 3.2 V6
    ex 2008 BMW 125i Coupe M-Sport
    ex 2000 Opel Astra CS 1.6
    ex 1988 Honda Balade 1.6i sport
    ex 1999 Yamaha TZR 125 Racing Sport

  17. #96
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    It's a relatively easy job....there is no drain plug seal. Drain plug just needs a coating of blue loctite ( non permanent ) and tighten to correct torque. You are not going to run out of transfer case fluid overnight .... or in 30 days 😊

    PS transfer case has no dip stick ... you need to unscrew the fill plug in the transfer case under the car and check level is max 1 cm from bottom of fill plug hole
    Last edited by daveysmith; 2015/11/13 at 02:20 PM.

    Suzi Blue 2008 Nocturne Blue Suzuki Grand Vitara 3.2 V6
    Dobinson's 40mm suspension, Air Lift 1000 60902 Kit, 16" Hyundai Tucson rims, 235/70R16 General Grabber AT3 tyres
    Wizerd rock sliders, radiator, sump and diff plates, Frontrunner RoofRack, NL 2nd Battery Box, Llumar sun protection
    Metalian Genie Trailer

  18. #97
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by RASSIE-WP View Post
    Long story short the radiator isn't losing water level - not eve slightly, the vehicle doesn't even heat up a little more than usual, but yet everytime I dry off the radiator a day later the droplets re-appear - no marks on the ground. Definitley not an overflow issue and the radiator itself nor any pipes are broken or bent.

    So upon what seems like my 20th inspection I only now realised that the bottom of the radiator might have shifted backwards from the impact and the radiator might have cracked slightly somewhere, as it seems the moist is coming from behind the radiator - between the fan and the radiator (where I cannot see anything). It seems the mounting rubbers might be out of their pots and that the radiator now faces slightly downwards because of the impact below, but I'm not sure as I have never checked it out before in order to notice a difference.
    Just an update with pictures. All fixed and covered by insurance. picked up all issues. And a few months later now I fitted some underbody protection. Thanks for all input!
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    officially & physically carless
    Kumho KL71 205/80 R16 MT
    2019 Husqvarna Vitpilen 701
    ex 2009 Suzuki Grand Vitara 3.2 V6
    ex 2008 BMW 125i Coupe M-Sport
    ex 2000 Opel Astra CS 1.6
    ex 1988 Honda Balade 1.6i sport
    ex 1999 Yamaha TZR 125 Racing Sport

  19. #98
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Centurion
    Age
    57
    Posts
    44
    Thanked: 1

    Default Service bulletin for Suzuki GV - 2008/9

    "2008 Suzuki Grand Vitara 3.2V6 Transfer Case Front Propshaft Oil Seal Replacement

    One of the Grand Vitara's little wear and tear items is the transfer case front oil seal. When this wears out you will notice an oil spray under the vehicle by the transfer case underneath the body. Mine has been spraying for a while, and I finally got a chance to do the repair over the Christmas break."

    Hi everyone


    After a month or two, I decided to fix the oil leak I was having on my transfer case. This post was really very helpful and helped me a great deal in actually doing the job myself . To cut a long story short - and it was quite a long story, I found out from Centurion Zuuk spare part guy, that there was a service bulletin that came out in 2009 already - just a few months after I bought my Zuuk. I've attached the bulletin, and it actually seems that its not the oil seal causing the leak (or the only factor) at the transfer case front prop shaft, but the O-ring.
    So Suzuki came up with a modification, where they replace the washer that sits behind the O-ring, with a special retainer ring - apparently this ring keeps the O-ring in its proper position. Luckily they had spares available and I replaced the washer with this new retainer ring. Unfortunately, I was not able to get the correct oil seal, but managed - after a major search - to find a non OEM part from a place in Midrand - only problem is that its a non-rotational oil seal - but for R15, I decided to take a chance and see how long it'll last - I have ordered the OEM part just in case. So far so good - lets hope the leak stays away.
    Cheers
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  20. #99
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    Bellville, Cape Town
    Age
    37
    Posts
    115
    Thanked: 2

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by timpa View Post
    [FONT=Arial][B]
    Suzuki came up with a modification, where they replace the washer that sits behind the O-ring, with a special retainer ring - apparently this ring keeps the O-ring in its proper position.
    That is more or less what they've told me as well. My new O-ring should arrive at Monday - taking GV in on Tuesday to resolve. They have however resealed the oil plug last week and the oil leaks seems to have stopped... (for now)...

    Thanks, Timpa!
    officially & physically carless
    Kumho KL71 205/80 R16 MT
    2019 Husqvarna Vitpilen 701
    ex 2009 Suzuki Grand Vitara 3.2 V6
    ex 2008 BMW 125i Coupe M-Sport
    ex 2000 Opel Astra CS 1.6
    ex 1988 Honda Balade 1.6i sport
    ex 1999 Yamaha TZR 125 Racing Sport

  21. #100
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    Bellville, Cape Town
    Age
    37
    Posts
    115
    Thanked: 2

    Default Back Seat Removal

    On a different, yet a modification note:

    Has anyone temporarily removed the back seats of their SGV? Swambo and I are planning a trip through Lesotho's Mountains during this summer break and seeing that we are planning on folding the back seats up it occurred to me to try and detach them completely and leave the unwanted weight in the garage...
    officially & physically carless
    Kumho KL71 205/80 R16 MT
    2019 Husqvarna Vitpilen 701
    ex 2009 Suzuki Grand Vitara 3.2 V6
    ex 2008 BMW 125i Coupe M-Sport
    ex 2000 Opel Astra CS 1.6
    ex 1988 Honda Balade 1.6i sport
    ex 1999 Yamaha TZR 125 Racing Sport

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