Improving battery charge capacity





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  1. #1
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    Default Improving battery charge capacity

    For interest and comment picked up the post below off the Australian LR site - post was from a commercial member who represents TRAXIDE Tronics which is apparently quite a well respected outfit in OZ:

    There is no way an alternator can charge and MAINTAIN a battery when the vehicle is not in regular use, and your type of use is a VERY common scenario these days.

    The trick to using a battery charger is to fully charge the battery but do not remove the charger once it goes into FLOAT mode.

    When a battery charger fully charges a battery, it only fully charges the amount of capacity in the battery that can actually be charged.

    That may sound like double dutch but over time batteries loose capacitance and this can be caused by many factors, like not charging the battery on a regular basis, not charging it long enough to allow the battery to get to a fully charged state and so on.

    You can easily end up with say a 100Ah battery with only 60% of it’s original capacity being able to be charged.

    So when you charge the battery, and the charger goes into FLOAT mode, you have only charged the 60% available.

    Now the trick is to leave the battery charger on, after it goes into FLOAT mode and leave it in float mode for around 8 to 10 hour. Then turn the charge off for around 12 hours.

    You need to let the battery’s electrolyte settle between charges, so that when the charger is turned on again, it will virtually stir up the electrolyte.

    Then repeat the charging cycle for as many times as you can, as this will help to revive the battery and in many cases will noticeably increase the battery’s usable capacity.

    But this type of conditioning charging will also allow the battery to be quicker charged, while driving.
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  2. #2
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    Be afraid be VERY afraid.

    VERY dangerous information.
    Cheers

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  3. #3
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    Fluffy

    Which part of that info should we be afraid of ??

  4. #4
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    The fact that it will loose capacitance

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  5. #5
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    I was told by a battery supplier to use the Recon function on a c-Tek to get best charge, I hope this is correct.
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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by robbief View Post
    i was told by a battery supplier to use the recon function on a c-tek to get best charge, i hope this is correct.

    no no no
    Cheers

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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by RossJ View Post
    Fluffy

    Which part of that info should we be afraid of ??
    Almost none of that is applicable with a smart charger. They (almost) all have maintenance modes. These chargers are designed to overcome the problems stated. Ctek, Beneton PSA, the lot.

    I can just imagine somebody taking his R4 grand smart charger and switching it off 8 hours after it is charged.

    Oh, and there is quite a bit of, how do we say this, poetic license, in many statements in that article.
    Cheers

    ZS5KAD
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  8. #8
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    OK
    I didnt get that from the article posted
    The essence I got was that taking the charger off and allowing battery to "settle" then re connecting for x hours or days and repeating the disconnecting and charging cycle could re vitalizd the battery to a better state allowing it to be used for longer
    Ross

  9. #9
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    The original post does not specify what kind of charger, it renders the info useless.

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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fluffy View Post
    no no no
    Just goes to show that info from a MD of a company that sells batteries and chargers can be wrong. This a battery Distributor and not a little franchise.
    Robbie
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  11. #11
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    oh how i wish uncle George would respond
    chargers like C tek are designed exactly to overcome problems with capacity loss
    they are designed to sit on charge for months at a time if required
    many reasons for loss of capacity
    if metal is lost, then automatically capacity is lost
    the plates spall and this sludge drops to the bottom of the casing
    there is no trick available to get that metal back onto the matrix once it has gone walkies
    if it is an unsealed battery, you could lose electrolyte. by adding battery water, you will weaken the concentration of acid which will also reduce capacity


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  12. #12
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    Hi Landyluvver

    your battery uncle is online after travelling to Wartburg in KZN today battling the rain and very dense fog between Mooi River and PMB.

    But to the topic on hand.

    Modern cars have many more systems drawing current compared to lets say 35 years ago when we used to go by the 1 - 2 - 3 formula. For the youngsters here on the forum, 1 litre Klippies, 2 litre coke and a 3 litre Cortina not complete without the fur on the dashboard 8)

    But to get serious again. A modern vehicle driven in urban conditions, i.e. moms taxi needs to get a booster charge every 6 weeks or so in summer and about every 4 weeks in winter.

    Nothing damages a battery more than having it operate at less than 50% of full charge.

    Your best choice is the CTEK , and yes Fluffy and myself both operate a CTEK MXS7.0.

    And if you go on leave for 3-4 weeks, just connect the CTEK before you leave and disconnect it when you have come back home again.

    My fleet of classic cars are permanently on CTEK's. Each got its own charger. That is why I don't have problems with batteries.

    Hope this helps.
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  13. #13
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    please try to explain why the alternator will not charge a battery to its full capacity
    the alternator dumps 14 odd volts into a battery to the point where the regulator recons that the battery is charged and then backs off
    batteries work on a electrolitic conversion where electrons are lost by the anode to the cathode while discharging (or is it the other way around?) and then the process is reversed while charging
    overcharging or charging to rapidly will shed metal so over time there is a point where the metal shed is sufficient to cause a short circuit between the plates and the cell is dead
    other than the loss of metal, what other factors reduce battery efficiency or cause the alternator not to fully charge the potential capacity?

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  14. #14
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    Just disconnect battery while not in use (George will kill me) but this works for me. I drive mine every 3 weeks and have no problems. I also have a Big 3 up grade to move more power to the battery and all my lights...this works on some cars not all. So check before you do it.

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  15. #15
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    Modern cars draw more current true. But modern cars have built in smart chargers. It no longer just run the alternator output via your charge light to the battery. Tbe reasons amongst others are...

    To control alternator load on the engine to save fuel.
    To optimally charge battery as lead etc are ROHS no no list.
    To fully charge or boost charge during short trips


    Granted a car that doesnt run frequently can do witj a maintenance charge. But you dont need to condition your battery externally to the car if it is a frequent runner.

    Come on guys do you really think us engineers will put all these so called power hungry "modules" in the car and dont think of charging the battery?
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