Trip Report: First trip to Namibia

[chris-2]

All the photos taken during this trip can be viewed in the Photo Galleries section (click on the link)
Remember to sort photos in correct date sequence...

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Hi,

Here follows our trip report of our recent trip to Namibia. If you want to read about the preparation for this trip, please look at:
http://www.4x4community.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=18504

We are back and to describe our overall impression: the BEST trip ever!








Here are the main statistics:

• we did 5524 kms from Durbanville and back

• used 566,69 liters of diesel
• and if my calculation is correct, got an average consumption of 9,75 km/l
  
  
• spent R1980 on accommodation, and
  
• R380 on park fees
  
• (accommodation in Windhoek was "for free")

We were also very fortunate as we did not have a single puncture. We travelled mostly on gravel roads (some really bad in the sense of loose sand, rocks, 2 spoor tracks, etc). Perhaps it had something to do with the tyre pressure? In stead of 2 Bar, I deflated all 4 wheels to 1,7 / 1,8 Bar. The only damage we experienced was on the way back. Just past Springbok, a bakkie in front of me threw up a small stone that chipped my front windscreen!


Below is an overview of the trip, destinations & durations:

# days Date Destination Nights

Day1 Sat 19 April 2008 Sat Felix Unite 1 night
Day2 Sun 20 April 2008 Sun Hobas Camping - Visrivier 1 night
Day3 Mon 21 April 2008 Mon Lovedale Holiday Farm 1 night
Day4 Tue 22 April 2008 Tue Betesda 1 night
Day5 Wed 23 April 2008 Wed Solitaire Guest Farm 1 night
Day6 Thu 24 April 2008 Thu Swakop 3 nights
Day7 Fri 25 April 2008 Fri Swakop
Day8 Sat 26 April 2008 Sat Swakop
Day9 Sun 27 April 2008 Sun White Lady Lodge / Ugab 1 night
Day10 Mon 28 April 2008 Mon Aba Huab 1 night
Day11 Tue 29 April 2008 Tue Spitskoppe 1 night
Day12 Wed 30 April 2008 Wed Windhoek 3 nights
Day13 Thu 01 May 2008 Thu Windhoek
Day14 Fri 02 May 2008 Fri Windhoek
Day15 Sat 03 May 2008 Sat Abiqua 1 night
Day16 Sun 04 May 2008 Sun Home

Here follows the trip report per day:

Sat, 19 April
We left home at approx 09:00. First stopped at the Co-op to bay a small 4x4 spade (just in case one will need one…). Stopped in Malmesbury for some spare fuses for the Pajero. It stopped raining when we reached Citrusdal. Bought some naartjies (@ R5 a bag!). At 17:00 we were through the border control at Noordoewer. From start to finish all went pretty quick.

We camped at Felix Unite for the evening @ a total cost of R100 for 2. Nice, camping spots, lawn, shade and warm water in the ablutions. We booked dinner and were pleasantly surprised with steak, chips and some salad for R65 a head.

Sun, 20 April
Early morning we took a short (approx 3 km’s) paddle up and down the Gariep. The Felix’ guys gave us a canoe, etc to use for free - very nice of them. We left for the Fish River Canyon at 11:00.

Arrived at Hobas Camping site at 13:00. Camping cost for 2 was R300 besides the R60 pp and R10 per car park fees. Took tons of pictures included some nice ones of the full moon rising later that evening when we returned to camp. There was an overland group that shared the camp with us. Not a problem except that there were only one shower in the mens! Luckily the water was warm.

Mon, 21 April
We left the next morning at 10:00 (09:00 Namibian time from now onwards) after we went to the Canyon for a second time, making sure we visited each and every view point available. Put in some diesel at Canon Roadhouse (cash only). We followed the C12 further North to Seeheim. Then for a short distance on the B4 across the Fish River before we took the C14 again to Bethanie. We initially thought of camping at Konkiep, but after a brief stop, decided to change our route. In stead of taking the D425 and then D707, we kept going to Helmeringhausen. Put in some diesel again. As we made no reservations for the trip, we started to look out for a possible place to camp for the evening. We took the C27 and soon spotted the sign of Lovedale Holiday Farm. They had only 2 camping spots and one was still available, so we took it. At R40 pppn it was really cheap. The sites were really nice: electrical point, electrical lights, fenced off by some reeds, built-in braai, table, shaded tree on some level sand, etc. The only down side was the ablution. Although it was clean and nicely built, there was no warm water (only luke warm except it was so cold the evening it actually felt cold). There was also an unpleasant smell coming from the toilets when the breeze turned. Apart from that, everything else was really nice. We nearly froze that evening – was very cold.

Tue, 22 April
We left at 07:50 after I took some pictures of the farm, the Campbell’s Karakul stud, etc. We stopped at Betta for some refreshments. The C27 was OK, loose sand and stones with some corrugation at places. One has to be careful driving on these roads, but I enjoyed every moment of it!

We took the D845, then a short distance on the C 19 before we turned of on the D854 to look up Betesda Camping site at 13:00. It looked nice, but the Easter wind was too strong for my liking and we decided to look closer at Sesriem.
We followed the C19 and D826 to Sesriem. We put some diesel in there (cash only) before we drove out to the Sesriem Gorge (or is it Canyon?) to explore. We later decided to head back to Betesda camp and took the advice of one of the girls working there to take spot no 6. When we arrived there at 16:00, the wind had died down completely. We had a wonderful evening in the camp: nice camping spot (no 6) with good, clean ablutions. At R130 for both of us, all inclusive, it was good value for money. Later that evening, after a nice hot shower we hit the bed (blow-up mattress,,,) and slept like a log – warm and no wind!

Wed, 23 April
The next morning, we left for Sesriem and Sossusvlei at 07:30 (a bit too late ).
My wife and I climbed the big dune to the top (we nearly died!) and spent quite some time exploring (and recovering) and soaking in as much of the beauty as possible. We saw some Oryx (gemsbokke) on the way out (14:30)

We arrived at Solitaire at 15:40 and filled up the Pajero’s tank. Using my GPS, we chose Solitaire Guest Farm as our next overnight spot. Simone informed us that she was fully booked (also only 2 camping spots). We were about to leave, very disappointedly, when someone called us and we recognized the people that camped next to us at Lovedale near Helmeringhausen. They offered that we could use their ablution facility (both spots had its own ablution facilities), so Simone and Walther OK’d that we camp there as well! It was a beautiful evening too, no wind, warm and quiet. There was even a tame Springbok and little Meerkat (suricate) visiting us at the tent.

The ablusion is very neat with a separate toilet, huge shower, separate basin and laundry area. There is however no roof, so you can literally look at the stars (sterre) when you shower…

Thu, 24 April till Sat 26 April
The next morning we went back to the General dealer in Solitaire as we had not yet tried their famous apply crumb pie. We then took the D1275 to see what the Spreetshoogte pass looked like. It was a beautiful trip, especially when we came back via the D1261, D1265 and then the C26 to include the Gamsberg pass before we rejoined the C14 through the Namib Naukluft National Park.

We stopped at a number of viewpoints through Spreetshoogte, Gamsberg as well as Kuiseb (including Eastern Carpcliff). We had lunch at approx 13:30 at the Granadula viewpoint in the Kuiseb pass. I also could not resist the temptation to drive in the Kuiseb river bed. There were a few other 4x4 vehicles parked there for a break or a drink in the shade. A nice spot to camp (I think).

We drove past Walvisbay and arrived at Swakopmund at 16:30. We decided that a proper bed would be the preferred way to sleep (camping and sleeping virtually on the ground for 5 days was enough for now!). Alte Brucke had no accommodation (1 bedroom) available so we tried the Swakopmund Rest Camp (Municipal camp). We got a bedroom “apartment” consisting of a semi open-plan consisting of a room with a double bed, small kitchen, separate shower + basin, separate toilet and separate scullery. At R240 a night it was a very good option considering camping can cost much more at some places.

We stayed in Swakop for 3 days. Climbed Dune 7 to the top and visited all the nice restaurants including The Tug,

Sun 27 April
We left for Henties Bay at 06:50. It was very misty. At 07:10 the fog cleared and it was a nice clear day with many anglers either already in position at the beach or others still driving there. We stopped in Henties for breakfast and to fill up the Diesel.

We reached Cape Cross at 10:00 and took some pictures of the seals, etc. The total cost was R70.

I then took a route on T4A that started a few kilometers north of Cape Cross that ran through the Messum Crater to the Brandberg. It was an amazing trip!. Many people would say there was nothing but desert or whatever else you would like to describe “niks”, but it was awesome! We took plenty of pictures, including some of the Welwitchia. It was 39 degrees and very hot (lucky for us the air-con was working nicely).
It went slowly as we stopped many times for pictures. The road was mainly a 2 spoor track. Later the afternoon we came across a huge cameleon. If we did’nt venture of the original track to get closer to the Brandberg, we would never have spotted it. The grass was growing almost waist high and my radiator was starting to clog up of the grass seeds. I cleaned it but did not want to offload some luggage to get the bin where the grille net was packed away.

After a long drive in a dry, sandy riverbed, we reached the Brandberg White Lady Lodge Camping Site. We chose a nice spot (cant remember the number) and got the fire lit just before it was dark.

Mon 28 Apr
The next morning we went to the Lodge to settle our account (think the total bill was R140). Before we left I fitted the grille net. I then decided to follow another T4A route to Twyfelfontein. This proofed to be more challenging than any of the other routes we took to date. Some areas was deep, soft sand , while there were also rocky steep areas to cross. Overall, it was probably the most beautiful stretch of the complete trip. In one area I thought to make a new road and followed a dry river bed. This worked only until we encountered huge rocks in our way and were then forced to drive through the “bush” until we crossed another 2 spoor track! We only reached Aba Huab Camping Site at 15:30 – evidence of the slow speed on the track.

After we set up camp, we drove to Twyfelfontein for some fuel. I offered them my petro card and they accepted it requesting I drive to the Twyfelfontein Lodge for payment. Amazing that one still gets people that can trust someone else! After a couple of Tafel Lagers we went back to camp. Cant remeber but I think our total cost for the one night at Aba Huab was around R100.

The site was OK, not the best, nor the worst. Again there was an open air shower (no roof), but what bothered my wife most was the continuous movement on the road not far from the site. Every now and then there was a donkey cart passing by (in the middle of the night). Also, the staff at the Reception had some friends and they partied until late.

I had no problem sleeping there. The moment my head touched the pillow I was in dream land!

Tue, 29 April
At 09:00 we took a drive to take pictures of the Burnt Mountain, Organ Pipes, etc. We then set off to the Petrified forest and spent some time there. Of all the interesting things we saw during our Namibia trip, the Petrified forest was probably the least inspiring to me…

At 12:20 we topped up the Paj at Korixas. We took the D2319 to Uis and just before we got to the Ugab River, we were very lucky as we almost bumped into a Desert elephant crossing the road!. While I was trying to get a full frontal picture of the elephant, my wife took video images through the sunroof to get a better view. It was quite amazing watching the elephant literally climbing the fence in stead of trampling it. If the pertified forest was the least inspiring then this elephant was definitely the highlight of the trip.

We also came across some Herero women (girls) posing their bare breasts, while dressed as Himba. When I wanted to take pictures, I was quickly stopped. After I paid R10, I was allowed to take as many photos as I wanted. A little further there was another stand next to road. My wife wanted to buy some of the dolls in traditional clothing they sell next to road,

We passed Uis on the D1930 and visited the old mine dumps and waterhole.

We arrived at Spitzkoppe Community camp at 17:00. Total cost for the camping was R100, We also ordered some traditional food for the evening at R55 a plate. It was dark when we found a place to setup tent. Luckily we viewed some of the most beautiful sunsets. We drove to the “restaurant” and had an enjoyable evening.

Wed, 30 April
The next morning, we took an early, cold shower in the nature. As we were too late the previous day to find a spot close to water, etc. we literally drove around the Spitzkoppe to camp at a spot far from everyone. It was nice, but there was no water, toilets, nothing. So we decided to use our water in a can to wash up and get fresh!

We then drove around the Spitzkoppe and eventually climbed out a steep rock at Bushmen’s Paradise using a chain as help. It was a pity that most of the bushman paintings were damaged by people to such an extent that it was actually not worth while climbing there. If it was not for the tremendous rock formations and beautiful views from up there, it would have been a waste. We left Spitzkoppe at 09:45.

When we got to Usakos I inflated the tyres to 2 Bar again as we were then going to stay on tar (mostly). We arrived in Windhoek at 13:30 and stayed there for 3 nights. As we were attending a wedding, we had accommodation at some people’s house and it was nice to sleep in a proper bed again.


Sat, 03 May
We left early and arrived at Abiqua Camp at 17:30 (SA time). This was by far the best camping site & facilities we encountered during the trip. R100 for 2, R10 for a car and R10 for electricity was very good.

Sun 04 May
We left camp at 07:30 at 08:00 we were through both sides of the border posts. Everything went smoothly, just a pity the officials on the SA side were so unfriendly.
At 14:30 we pulled in at our house in Durbanville – journey successfully completed!

I have plenty of photos to post, just deciding whether to post it in this thread or some other place?

Although this was a very successful trip as well as most enjoyable, I would probably next time have one or two more vehicles travel with us. Some of the areas we drove was very remote, and I did not carry any serious recovery kit with me. We were very lucky not to encounter any problems but I would think that driving through the Messum Crater and then from Brandberg to Twyfelfontain one needs to have a least another vehicle in the group.

We saw Namibia in what most Namibians referred to as "seldom seen" - as a result of the high rainfall earlier the year, areas that are normally empty desertwith little or no plants, were covered in grass and some areas were even green!. As a result, most of the roads were damaged at the low water bridges but that made for even more adventure.

Chris

[chris-2]

Ok, So here are the first pics of the trip. I'll post a few every day

Sat, 20 April

Felix Unite, Noordoewer
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Sun, 21 April

Fish River Canyon, Hobas Camping & Full Moon rising...
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[chris-2]

Third night, 21 April

This is enroute to Lovedale Holiday Farm, past the Fish River near Seeheim; beautiful landscape near Helmeringhausen. The camp site is on the Lovedale Holiday farm
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[chris-2]

22 April, destination: Sossusvlei:

Some free advertising for the Campbells...
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[img]http://www.4x4community.co.za/forum/picture.php?albumid=11&pictureid=51[/img]




Evidence of the good rain that fell in Namibia:
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[img]http://www.4x4community.co.za/forum/picture.php?albumid=11&pictureid=52[/img]




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[img]http://www.4x4community.co.za/forum/picture.php?albumid=11&pictureid=54[/img]




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[img]http://www.4x4community.co.za/forum/picture.php?albumid=11&pictureid=53[/img]



Springbok in excellent condition!
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[img]http://www.4x4community.co.za/forum/picture.php?albumid=11&pictureid=55[/img]





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[img]http://www.4x4community.co.za/forum/picture.php?albumid=11&pictureid=56[/img]




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Sesriem Gorge:
[img]http://www.4x4community.co.za/forum/picture.php?albumid=11&pictureid=58[/img]

[img]http://www.4x4community.co.za/forum/picture.php?albumid=11&pictureid=58[/img]

[Hoffie]

Chris, I don't check anything boet.

[chris-2]

23 April, Sossus & Solitaire

En-route to Sossusvlei:
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Too late to get there before sunrise, best I could get...
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Lekker ou dwarrel-wind...
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Solitaire famous for its Apple crumble pie
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Check the rain-fall stats in the middle of the pic
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Solitaire Guest Farm, our camping site for the night:
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[oulouis]

I can't see the pictures? What's wrong

[Uys]

Get SWAMBO to bring your spectacles

[chris-2]

Sorry for this small problem - busy investigating what the h.. is going on here?!

Will try and post another test pic here - if that still does not show, I need help

Using the BB Code method:

[chris-2]

Oulouis, Hoffie,

Can you see the images now??

[Uys]

No, still nothing

[oulouis]

no - even with my glasses on!

[Andre]

Nou hoekom kan ek alles sien?

[oulouis]

Vir een of ander rede wys die fotos nou Ek verstaan nie so lekker nie.

[chris-2]

Good, then I can start posting the rest of the trip images

[chris-2]

The springbok trying to quench his thirst from our kettle
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We decided to drive up Spreetshoogte pass, back via the Gamsberg pass & then the Kuiseb pass enroute to Walvisbay. It was a beautiful drive with many viewpoints. Here are only a view pics:
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We pulled over in the dry riverbed for a refreshment...
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These pics were taken around the Kuiseb pass in the Naukluft National Park - not sure what these mountains are called
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As it was in the middle of the day, the light was not good for taking pics..
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The last 80 kms or so before one gets Walvisbay - there is literally NOTHING there but sand/gravel
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[chris-2]

Dune 7 just outside of Walvisbay
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Dune 7 one morning
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Flamingos outside Walvisbay
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Not sure what these birds are, does anyone know?
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Sunset viewed from The Tug in Swakop
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Swakop Rest camp where we stayed
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Henties where we stopped for breakfast enroute to the Messum Crater
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A quick stop at Cape Cross to look at the thousands of seals
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Full of emptyness enroute to Messum Crater. This was an awesome experience following a 2 spoor track, driving in 39 degrees Celsius and not sure where the track was taking us...
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The well known Welwitchia
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More pics of the Messum as well as some of Brandberg as we got closer that afternoon
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[Andre]

Now even I cannot see any of your last pics. Me thinks something is jinxed on your side.

[Bosveld]

Now even I cannot see any of your last pics. Me thinks something is jinxed on your side.

Me too....

[chris-2]

Me too....

Just curious, was the Welwitchia perhaps the last pic you were able to see? I need to troubleshoot what went wrong and the pics I posted after the welwitchia I used a different method...