Solo Namibia Trip Report + Pictures

[Lone4WRanger]

I just returned from a solo 1 week trip to Namibia.

The country, the scenery, the people, the experience, everything was fantastic. Since this was my first time to Namibia, and I traveled solo, I thought I would post the trip experience for others that might visit in the future.

Before I left I thought about purchasing some tuffstuff insurance, but was told there would be a 60 day waiting period and had a bit of a bad experience in obtaining a quote. I looked at traveling into Africa solo objectively. I've traveled to Mozambique and Kenya twice before with vehicles. On one occasion I had a minor mechanical breakdown, and it took me a day to source a part and be on my way again. When dealing with breakdowns while abroad, the goal should always be to fix or replace the part and be on your way again, rather than to do a recovery where a vehicle is shipped back to SA.

Part of the adventure of any trip is dealing with breakdowns and mishaps. Travel without some form of difficulty is just travel, not adventure. That breakdown and recovery you might face often leads to the best experiences on the trip, and will be told around many a campfire, not to mention experience gained.

The main thing when traveling into Africa is to be prepared and take sensible precautions. I was only going to Namibia on a one week trip, I'm driving a brand new vehicle, and I'm sticking to the main routes). I over prepared for the trip, but that's when you know you are well covered should something go wrong.

The vehicle I used was a stock standard 2013 Ford Ranger 3.2 XLT D/C 4x4. I packed the following :

50l water (1 x 20l 1 x 25l 1x 5l)
90l extra diesel (2 x 20l metal diesel jerry cans, 2 x 25l plastic jerry cans)
1 x 1 man expedition tent
2 x sleeping bags
1 x cellphone with international roaming
Enough food to last 2 weeks
Cadac 5kg gas bottle with standard cooker top
Camping pot set
2 x maxtrax
Camping chair
lots of warm clothes
Recovery Gear (tow straps, shackles, kinetic tow strap, spade, pump, tire pressure monitor, tire repair kit)
Extra Oil
Full set of tools (Full socket and spanner set, screwdriver set, pliers, etc.)
Torches (head torch, led lenser, lots of batteries)
Laptop with charger and adapters

Camera Equipment : EOS 5D MKIII, 16-35 ii, 24-70 ii, 24mm 1.4L, 100mm Macro 2.8L IS, 85mm 1.2L, Pelican Case to store equipment (dust, water and fire proof, military rated), tripod, extra batteries.



Before I left I took my vehicle for a 15 000km service (It had 13 800 km on the odo), and had the air filter changed.

Day 1 : Cape Town to Vioolsdrift.



I leave at 8am in the morning. A cold front has hit Cape Town, and the clouds look angry. I take a slow drive.
By the time I hit Citrusdal I start hitting the road works that I have been warned about. I'm on holiday and am in no rush, but the roadworks test my patience. Every 3-5km there is a wait of 10 minutes, sometimes longer. The stop and go lanes last from Citrusdal all the way past Klawer. I estimate that the roadworks added and additional 90 minutes of travelling time.
I reach Vioolsdrift by 5pm and settle at The Growcery. They offer lodging and camp site. I take a campsite right on the banks of the orange river. I had a great time staying here and ended up having a few drinks with the owner, staff and guests till late at night. It rains through the night, and luckily my tent keeps the water out.





Before crossing the border, I decide to dump 25l of water and empty 25l of diesel into the Ranger. One of the plastic cans is leaking and I feel that 65l of extra fuel is more than enough.

Day 2 : Vioolsdrift to Aus.
My original plan was to make the Fish River Canyon my first stop, but since the cold front has now hit the South of Namibia, I decide to rather make my way North of the cold front. I move the Fish River Canyon stop to the end of my trip, on my way back to South Africa.

At the last minute, I open the map I bought at the garage and decide to take a route that is less travelled. I take the route through the Richtersveld, Rosh Pinah and then Aus. The section through the Richtersveld is very scenic. The roads are muddy due to the recent rainfall from last night. Some sections I engage 4H for extra traction. After the Richtersveld section, I hit a long section of tar and I arrive in Aus by Mid Afternoon and stay at the Klein Aus Vista.







I spend the afternoon exploring the Aus area and looking for wild horses, but I fail to see any. I go to the lookout point, but they’re nowhere to be seen. I decide to get up early the next day to try again, and to go to the ghost town, Kolmanskop.





Day 3 : Kolmanskop, NamibRand, Sossusvlei reserve
I get up early, skip breakfast, and leave for Kolmanskop. I spend the morning at Kolmanskop. There’s a tour with too many people for my liking. I spend some time in the musuem. I am fascinated by the history of the town. Afterwards I walk around, taking some pictures, but I leave early as there are too many people. I set out for Sossusvlei from Aus. I take the C14 from Aus to Helmeringhausen. I stop to have some coffee at the local coffee shop and have the best apple pie I have ever had. From there, I take the c27 to Sossusvlei via Namibrand.



The scenery is spectacular. I stop every 15km to take pictures. I literally get out of the car, aim the camera and take a picture, and what is captured is always breathtaking. I see blue skies, red rocks, african plains. All the stopping and exploring is adding hours to my estimated travel time.

Pretty soon I reach the NamibRand nature reserve. There’s no fences. You have to drive carefully as animals often jump out right in front of your vehicle. I think it’s the most beautiful road I have ever driven on, coupled with the most spectacular scenery I have ever seen. The sun is about to set, and I am making the most of the golden hour by taking pictures. Wildlife is abundant. Oryx, zebra, springbok, and fox are all around me.





By now, all the stopping and taking pictures has pushed my traveling time past sunset. It’s now dark and the last thing I want to happen is hit an animal. I decide to drive 30km/h till sossusvlei.

I reach Sossusvlei. It’s late - after 8pm already. I don’t feel like camping tonight, and decide to stop at the Sossusvlei lodge to enquire about their rates. My idea of staying in a lodge quickly changes when I am told the rates are R3000 per night per person. I head for the campsite which is more reasonable at R170 a night including park fee access to Sossusvlei.

I set up camp when I notice a guy on a bicycle pitching up tent next to me. I introduce myself to the cyclist - his name is Reggie, he is French, and he is busy cycling from South Africa to Tanzania on a bicycle. And I thought I was crazy to travel alone. Here I am travelling with insurance, 50l of water, 90l of fuel and enough food for a week in my vehicle. He is travelling on a bicycle with only 5l of water and a few pieces of fruit at a time for food. I offer him some beer and food, we get on well, and decide to head to Sossusvlei Dune 45 the next morning.

Day 4 : Sossusvlei
It was a very cold night and none of us slept through. The cold has turned the vapor into ice on the inside of my tent. We get up at 4.30 am and head for Sossusvlei. It’s a 50km drive to get to the Sossusvlei gates. From there it’s a 10 minute drive through sand (4x4 needed), and from there it’s another 8 minute walk to get to the dune.





We climb the dune, it’s at least an hour’s climb. After that I spend some time at dead vlei, on the other side of the dune. I am fascinated by the dead vlei, spending about 90 minutes taking pictures here.



We return to the camp, pack up, and head for a buffet lunch at the Sossusvlei lodge. Great food and very reasonably priced. After that, we say our goodbyes as Reggie has to get moving on the bicycle again.

I head back to the Sossuvlei lodge, and manage to bargain the price of lodging down from R3000 / night to R1300 per night. The lodging is great.

Day 5 : Sossuvlei to Keetmanshoop
Sadly, it’s time for me to start heading home. I get up early and take the C19 via Sossus to Maltahohe. There’s a very strong side wind and I can feel the back of the bakkie crabbing along and feeling somewhat unstable. I reduce speed to be safe. I see a Nissan Micra approach, and suddenly the vehicle loses control. I anticipate a rollover and immediately stop to put some distance between me and this situation that is busy unfolding in front of me. The Micra turns 90 degrees towards me, then 90 degrees the other ways, and then somehow they come to a stop without hitting the edge of the road or rolling the vehicle. There’s 4 young european tourists in the car and they’re all laughing. I point and shout at them. I’m certain they have no idea they just escaped a rollover and a possible fatality as a result thereof.

From Maltahohe to Mariental and Keetmans it’s a tar road, and a very boring one at that. I stay overnight at the Keetmanshoop quiver tree forest with the aim of exploring the area the next morning. I don’t find the Keetmanshoop area to be particularly beautiful, and the lodging wasn’t great either. I give the quiver tree forest a miss, as I the setting doesn't look natural to me. I am sure I will encounter more quiver trees in a more beautiful setting on the way to the Fish River Canyon. (And I did)

Day 6 : Keetmanshoop to Fish River Canyon
I decided to make a stop at the Fish River Canyon. The scenery changes for the better, south of Keetmanshoop to the scenic Namibia I have become accustomed to. I stop by the Canon Roadhouse, have a coffee and head out to the Fish River Canyon viewpoint. Wow, a definite highlight of the trip. I take some pictures, and decide to head out to Ai Ais.







The road and scenery to Ai Ais takes you through the Ai Ais national park, and the scenery is once again spectacular. At Ai Ais springs, I spend some time in the warm swimming pool. I didn’t expect to enjoy it this much here, but it’s an unexpected highlight. I make my way back to the Canon Road House where I spend the last night.



Day 7 :
Fish River Canyon to Cape Town. No pictures.


General Notes :
Most of the roads are very well traveled.
Gravel roads are in great condition.
There’s always cars on most of the routes, and if you stop, there are always other cars that stop to check if you are ok.
Namibia is very safe.
Accommodation at Sossusvlei is very expensive if you decide not to camp. Be prepared to pay in the region of R1500 - R3000 pp/pn in season.
Only cash accepted at fuel stations.
Diesel 50 not really available / always on empty at stations
Take plenty of cash. Most lodges have ATM’s though.
Plenty of tire repair facilities and basic mechanical repairs at farm stops.
Major repairs to be done at Keetmans, Windhoek, etc. in case of emergency.
Saw quite a few flat tires on SUV’s. Ran into a friend who toured Namibia in a Volvo XC90. He had 3 flats on one stretch of road. His vehicle might be All wheel drive, but the tires on SUVs are not always tough enough for the conditions. Something to keep in mind when travelling with an SUV.
50l of extra fuel should be enough for most people if you are sticking to the main routes. (assuming your vehicle is using 11 - 13l / 100km)

Ford Ranger Notes :
The vehicle exceeded all my expectations. It’s comfortable, quiet, capable and fuel efficient.
Tire pressures were 2.8 at the rear and 2.4 in the front. I kept it like that on gravel and tar, and find it to be a great combination when loaded. No flats and the rear was loaded heavily enough not to experience any fishtailing at those tire pressures.

The traction control on this vehicle is phenomenal. I tested it on a few sections by entering 90 degree turns at high speed, and trying to get the rear to come out. No matter how hard I tried, the traction control worked discretely and immediately. Sometimes I would enter a corrugated turn and step on the accelerator and see if I can get the rear to step out, but the vehicle with traction behaves impeccably. It really is something else. You can never feel it, but it works so well. Turn it off, and you can feel the rear fishtailing immediately. That being said, one must always travel at a sensible speed on gravel roads and drive defensively. Traction control can only work up to a point.

Water pipe issues. There has been some reports of water pipes bursting on the Ford Rangers. I inquired before my trip, and here’s the lowdown. All Auto rangers are affected. There is a pipe that must be replaced.

All manuals before 2013 are also affected (there are water pipes to the right behind the battery that must be replaced.) The problem is these pipes chafe through as a result of friction (especially on long distance gravel road driving). The problem has been fixed on all manual rangers from mid 2013 forward. My vehicle was not affected, and this was confirmed in the workshop - I had the mechanic show me the new pipes which has an extra layer of plastic coil around it to prevent to chafing issue.

Insurance Notes :

Do you need special off-road insurance when travelling to Namibia? My answer is no. Get travel insurance, make sure your vehicle is insured comprehensively for abroad. If your vehicle is in warranty, you should be able to take it to a garage in Namibia, ie. Ford, Toyota, VW, etc. Even if you don't have all of these, don't fret. The rest of the world and namibia doesn't have special offroad cover, and they manage just fine, just like all of us did for many years before specialist off-road cover. I ran into a few people who had breakdowns, and they were all sorted within a day or 2.

That being said, your mileage may vary. You might drive a much older, higher mileage vehicle. You might go way off the beaten track. You might have backup vehicles or not. Either way, if you have a breakdown, the objective is to fix the problem and continue the journey rather than ship the vehicle back to SA. To that end, you need to decide what your personal requirements are and what you need to be covered. For me, personally, I found my current insurance cover to be more than adequate for travel into Namibia.

As a parting thought : If a guy can travel through Africa on a bicycle, we can all travel with a lot less than we think we need. Just a thought. ;-)

Final Notes :
I have fallen in love with Namibia. I feel like I belong there. I will be back. Very soon.

[Mielieman]

Absolutely Brilliant I want to go now!

P.S. Is it possible for me to get a copy of that last picture you took, I want to make it my desktop background?

[Regard]

Absolutely Brilliant I want to go now!

P.S. Is it possible for me to get a copy of that last picture you took, I want to make it my desktop background?

Right click on it -> Set as Backround.

[Paul Dold]

Thanks for posting! Enjoyed your report. Marvelous countryside.

At Sossusvlei where did you camp - I take it you were too late to camp in the park itself? Were you at the Oasis camp site?

What camera were you using?

This is classic:

I set up camp when I notice a guy on a bicycle pitching up tent next to me. I introduce myself to the cyclist - his name is Reggie, he is French, and he is busy cycling from South Africa to Tanzania on a bicycle. And I thought I was crazy to travel alone. Here I am travelling with insurance, 50l of water, 90l of fuel and enough food for a week in my vehicle. He is travelling on a bicycle with only 5l of water and a few pieces of fruit at a time for food."

[Expat]

Nice report and pics.Thanks for sharing.Need to go again.

[camelman]

Nice one and some great photies

[Honda CRV]

Awesome!!! That's how you do it.......

[Mielieman]

Right click on it -> Set as Backround.

This is on the computer and the resolution is bad because the image has been resized...

[wilfwalk]

Well done and thanks for the great photos. Sure whets the appetite for a visit to that area.

[cherokee235]

Makes for lovely reading especially the pictures. Really beautiful. What type of camera were you using ?? The color of the pictures are very vivid and clear.

[Lone4WRanger]

Makes for lovely reading especially the pictures. Really beautiful. What type of camera were you using ?? The color of the pictures are very vivid and clear.

Hey guys

Thanks for all the comments.

I used a Canon EOS 5d Mark III with 16-35mm and 24-70mm lenses.

However, the quality of the light in Namibia is spectacular, and this makes all the difference if you shoot early morning or late evening. If I shoot the same times here in South Africa my pictures look ordinary.

Mielieman : please PM me your email address and I will send you a higher res pic no problem

[Jeepiscool]

Wow your pictures are awesome !!
Why did you go alone?

[Lone4WRanger]

Thanks for posting! Enjoyed your report. Marvelous countryside.

At Sossusvlei where did you camp - I take it you were too late to camp in the park itself? Were you at the Oasis camp site?

What camera were you using?

This is classic:

I set up camp when I notice a guy on a bicycle pitching up tent next to me. I introduce myself to the cyclist - his name is Reggie, he is French, and he is busy cycling from South Africa to Tanzania on a bicycle. And I thought I was crazy to travel alone. Here I am travelling with insurance, 50l of water, 90l of fuel and enough food for a week in my vehicle. He is travelling on a bicycle with only 5l of water and a few pieces of fruit at a time for food."

Hi, thanks for the comments, yes, I arrived a bit late, They didn't have any campsites left, but they took me to an unofficial spot where I could camp under the tree. A few minutes later the cyclist also got a spot under another tree, so it seems this camp site never really gets full ;-)

I camped at the Sossusvlei park (where you pay entry fee to go to Sossus and Sesriem).

PS Camera details added to original post.

[Lone4WRanger]

Wow your pictures are awesome !!
Why did you go alone?

I have been wanting to go to Namibia for a long time. I asked 2 friends if they wanted to join me on the trip, but none of them had the time or financial resources to do so. Truth be told, I don't think they enjoy nature as much as I do, and so I never really pushed hard for them to come with.

My wife and I have a 1 year old baby, and I felt that he is too young for the distance traveled, and my wife couldn't get off now or for the next 12 months. She was awesome enough to let me go on my own.

I am also more than happy to travel on my own, comfortable in my own skin, and definitely a loner. A loner doesn't mean you are lonely, just that you are happy to do things on your own and not feel lonely while doing things on your own. Some people think it's odd, and that's ok by me, but anyone that has travelled on their own before will relate.

Traveling on your own is a great experience, as you meet and mingle with people you would never meet if you were in a group. The first night I met the owner of the growcery and his staff, who ended up giving me lots of advice for the trip. Later during the trip I met the guy who cycled through africa, also on his own. In many ways it takes a stronger person to travel on his own. I was never really on my own, as wherever I ended up I always conversed and spent time with people. In the end I made more friends than I had before the trip.

That being said, I can't wait to experience Namibia with my wife and son next year when my wife has leave and my son is old enough.

[W3771M]

Nice pics.

Just deflate you tires next time.

[Lone4WRanger]

Some more pics

View from Room at Sossusvlei Lodge :


Sesriem Canyon :

[Adam Schäfer]

Thanks for sharing.
Nam is definitely on my list for next year.

[PeetS]

Great report, excellent photography!

Brings back good memories from our trip in May.

[vnielsen]

Great report and awesome pics! We leave on Wednesday for Kaokoland for a month😈

[deonl]

Not just the camera - the person holding it did a great job too!!!

Deon