Electrickery for camping

[Fluffy]

Smap thanks for the feedback - will add it and update the post. (also now see I dont show a main fuse in the unprotected line feeding the power distribution box ..)


in my setup that lead is about 250mm long, NO place to short to earth ... but best to ensure a safe message goes out

I would like, without opening a can of worms, to caution against too many fuses in a system.

The belt and braces approach is a worthy cause, but one has to be practical. Fuses and their connections are another thing to fail or cause problems. AND THEY DO. One of the biggest sources of failures is lose fuses or the connections to the fuses.

If Ctek thought it was necessary to put a fuse in the output lead they would have done so, as would all the other charger manufacturers.

Almost universally the chargers output will be protected in some way against a short. Either a physical fuse or an electronic circuit that performs the function of a resettable fuse, or it will just fail.

If you must put in a fuse put it as close to the aux battery as is practical. If there is a cable short the fuse will isolate the battery and the charger will protect itself.

[Smap]

That is exactly what I meant Fluffy. You do not want to unleash a couple of hundred available amps without being able to stop it. Maybe just a bit "omslagtig" the way I put it.

[Vlakvarkie]

Dankie Chris.

+1000 dat dit 'n sticky word.

[Stranger]

Thanks for this, great piece of work

[Eurard]

En hier dog ek jy is net n mooi gesiggie, nice man, dankie

[Columbus]

Well done Chris, nice job.

[Chris Viljee]

Chris, dis die beste wat ek nog gesien het en baie leersaam. Mooi man.
Give the man a single malt!!

[Eggie]

Netjies Chris, sommer baie netjies.

Jy steek natuurlik jou kop ver uit as jy so "techno" raak, maar ek sien niemand waag dit tot dusver om jou te kritiseer nie. Voorwaar netjies.


Ek stem saam met Poen dat die LC (lood kristal) tipe batterye net die ding is vir ons tipe toepassing. Dis baie geld, maar ook baie goed bestee.

[Dylan]

Great set of Articles, well done Chris, this is extremely useful.

Cheers

[Metalmachine]

Do not mean to hijack the thread...

Here are a few pics of a extra batt set I built for someone. Its mounted on a steel frame covered with alu plate and serves as a platform to house the extra batt and his fridge to the front of the plate.
It is mounted between the 2 back seats. The double batt is fed from a CTEC 250 S and there are multiple Hella, Cigarette and BH connection plugs mounted on the sides of the batt box.
Alu tie-down strips are mounted onto the platform to strap the fridge tightly to the platform and the platform is bolted onto the chassis to make it projectile safe just incase.

All is made safe with multiple fuses, all connections soldered and exclusive use of heat shrink.

Pity I never took pics after everything was installed but sure I can get some if I ask for the vehicle.

[old no 7]

BEST Thread I have read so far!!

Thank you.

[Hugos]

Thanks Chris, when i decided to add a Batt to the Jeep, info like this was "skaars". Luckily, Leeu (a member here) took pity on me! Great info.

[Subok]

Thanks Chris! Literally thousands of discussion posts on this (and other) forums combined.
I agree to make it a sticky and to perhaps close the thread. Another discussion thread on the subject can be opened and useful info transferred to the sticky?
I am at the 'solar panel stage' of evolution and would appreciate more info on the wiring of the panel/controller for semi-permanent mounting on the roof of a vehicle in combination with a solenoid-type dual battery setup, so that the panel will charge the dual battery when stationary while say, sitting at a water hole on a game drive. This is for those of us who dont have a trailer waiting at the camp with the panel keeping the fridge going. Apologies if i missed this in your original post.
Finally, I suggest that the forum knighthood be bestowed on Chris for this valuable contribution.

[Fluffy]

Netjies Chris, sommer baie netjies.

Jy steek natuurlik jou kop ver uit as jy so "techno" raak, maar ek sien niemand waag dit tot dusver om jou te kritiseer nie. Voorwaar netjies.


Ek stem saam met Poen dat die LC (lood kristal) tipe batterye net die ding is vir ons tipe toepassing. Dis baie geld, maar ook baie goed bestee.

Agree Eggie.

Let's all make a pact to not pollute this thread with unnecessary critique of some of the finer points that hold no value other than to show how clever we are.

If you would like to discuss an issue, maybe start another thread and reference this one.

Obviously an incredible amount of thought and work went into this one.

[Sandveld]

Got to love the Toyota wheels on the diagrams!

[Elders]

Do not mean to hijack the thread...

Here are a few pics of a extra batt set I built for someone. Its mounted on a steel frame covered with alu plate and serves as a platform to house the extra batt and his fridge to the front of the plate.
It is mounted between the 2 back seats. The double batt is fed from a CTEC 250 S and there are multiple Hella, Cigarette and BH connection plugs mounted on the sides of the batt box.
Alu tie-down strips are mounted onto the platform to strap the fridge tightly to the platform and the platform is bolted onto the chassis to make it projectile safe just incase.

All is made safe with multiple fuses, all connections soldered and exclusive use of heat shrink.

Pity I never took pics after everything was installed but sure I can get some if I ask for the vehicle.

That looks GOOD !!


I would support a fitment centre that delivers work of that standard.

[Elders]

the pdf has been added to POST ONE.

THANKS for the feedback, it has been added to the pdf document.

[Elders]

... I am at the 'solar panel stage' of evolution and would appreciate more info on the wiring of the panel/controller for semi-permanent mounting on the roof of a vehicle in combination with a solenoid-type dual battery setup, so that the panel will charge the dual battery when stationary while say, sitting at a water hole on a game drive.....

two options here, again most start with option one, and most move on to option two at some stage ....


ONE -
Make a "slide" mount for the solar panel. The mount could be permanently mounted to the roof/canopy, or a temp fix to roof rails ...

You then make use of Brad Harison Connectors (which reminds me I still want to add a chapter on connectors). Your solar panel(s) connect to a lead with a BHC, which in turn is permanently connected to the dual charger. So every time you stop the solar carries on charging.

IF you camp under trees you then have the option to slide out the solar panels, and use an extention lead to connect it to your system.



Slide frame for the solar panels (final resting place of my old canopy .. )



panels in frame (sorry I dont have a better pic of this)


TWO - exactly the same as one, except that the panels are fixed (cant slide out). right or wrong, it is just too much of a shlep and people hardly ever use the slide function ....


second time round I just bolted it on .... (may well still wish I kept a slide of sorts ... maar dis mos maar hoe ons leer)

[mfuwefarmer]

Excellent contribution Chris!

[Balljoint]

Hi Chris
Excellent information.
Could you tell me where I could get that voltage/ amp meter in your illustrations.
Regards