Electrickery for camping - Page 63





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  1. #1241
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    Oct 2009
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    Default Re: Electrickery for camping

    My Victron is of the 600 series before Bluetooth.

    When the charge voltage remains above a certain voltage AND the charge current drops to below a certain threshold for a preset time, then the monitor automatically synchronizes.

    You would have to consult your specific model's manual to know if yours does the same or if it requires some form of user intervention.
    Eggie.

    What this country needs more and more, are more unemployed politicians.
    - apology to Edward Langley.

  2. #1242
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    Oct 2012
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    Fourways
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    Default Re: Electrickery for camping

    Hi Guys,

    Why would my DC to DC charger be charging my Auxiliary battery at 17.4v? Surely this will damage the battery?
    2017 Fortuner 2.8 GD6 4x4 Auto

  3. #1243
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    Default Re: Electrickery for camping

    Quote Originally Posted by Donlux View Post
    Hi Guys,

    Why would my DC to DC charger be charging my Auxiliary battery at 17.4v? Surely this will damage the battery?
    That is bad news - disconnect your utility battery without delay and have the utility charging system checked out.

    While you're at it, have your meter checked as well.
    If it is a multitester type, check/replace its battery.
    Eggie.

    What this country needs more and more, are more unemployed politicians.
    - apology to Edward Langley.

  4. #1244
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    Default Re: Electrickery for camping

    Quote Originally Posted by Eggie View Post

    While you're at it, have your meter checked as well.
    If it is a multitester type, check/replace its battery.
    Aaah, very good advice. Once had a contractor claiming our municipal voltage was at 500v plus between phases and 300v phase to phase. Installed a new battery into his test meter and voltages came down to what they should be.
    Isuzu STD 2.5d 2x4 rear diffy lock
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    snorkel soon
    Craig
    I DON'T LIVE IN AFRICA,AFRICA LIVES IN ME- Kyle my son

  5. #1245
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
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    Cape Town - RSA
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    Default Re: Electrickery for camping

    With a trip to Maubua coming up, I recently did an experiment with my current setup, in order to clarify in my own mind how the fridge and battery behaves and to measure the amounts of amps required to do typical work loads. I share here for anyone interested. A lot of what I discovered lines up with existing forum advice.

    Setup:
    10mm cables running direct from main battery to boot.
    Plugged into snomaster battery box, which has a manual isolator switch.
    Ritar 105aph AGM battery
    Snomaster 50L fridge.
    basic inline voltage and amp meter (Link)

    I only recently purchased the meter. So for the first time I could measure the amount of amps flowing through the system.

    Experiment:
    Input charge:
    First thing I did was discharge the battery by roughly 20amps (so open to bulk charging), then I plugged in the battery and meter to the Jeep and took a drive. Measured the amount of amps flowing into the battery through the 10mm cables. After about 15 minutes of driving around normally it averaged out at between 11 and 13 amps. This was very valuable and interesting to me. As the Jeep has a really powerful alternator, I was expecting this number to be higher. I'm currently considering if its worth it to switch to a WRND DC DC system, and was worried that the 20amp max charge limit may actually hinder me. This proves that it will certainly not. Now I might have gotten better results with thicker cables or a high cycle battery, but for my personal setup this was good data.

    Consumption:
    Now that I had a baseline for how fast I could recharge a battery, I wanted to get a feel for how much power I would pull from it, considering some worst case scenarios. So I let the fridge warm up to room temp (20 degrees), then put in a few bottles of room temp water, including a big 5L one. Set the temp to -15 and let rip. This was all pulling from the 12V battery, not 220V, and I simulated a 120W solar panel by plugging in my battery charger which delivers max 5A. The fridge started out at 15c and then slowly started dropping. 21 hours later I checked it and it had dropped to -5c. This was much slower than I had expected, although it is understandable considering what it needs to cool. What is interesting and important is that everything inside was now frozen solid. So I'm not convinced that going any lower will make any difference. I adjusted it this morning to -10. Will check when I'm home tonight.

    The compressor ran pretty much full time and used an average of between 3.5 and 4.5 amps constantly. The battery has charged back up via the charger. However this assumes the sun will be shining for 21 hours which seems unlikely. But it does prove that with a 5amp input it will at very least hold its charge, and with a bit of luck add a small amount back.

    Take Aways:
    Precooling your fridge at home before you leave on the trip definitely makes sense. It takes a lot longer than you think to get everything frozen. A 8 hour drive to your camp spot will not be enough. Bank on 24 hours to be safe.

    Try get a measurement of how many amps you are getting whilst on alternator charge. It might be less than you think. An hours game drive will probably only give me 5-8amp hours if you stop and turn off your engine to view animals.

    If you are at hot location, bank on your fridge pulling 4amps an hour constantly. Plan accordingly.

    I don't really see the value in setting your fridge way low, like -18. Unless someone can explain to me? Once everything is frozen, its frozen.

    Future plans:
    I think i'm going to invest in a WRND, and see if the amps improves when alternator power. If it can consistently give me 20amps, that will help.
    I'm also going to go for a 120W solar panel, and will do some experiment to check if I can average 5amps an hour. Also, it might we worthwhile have the WRND auto switch between the alternator and solar, that way if you are out on a drive, you make max use of the time. (assuming solar panel on roofrack)
    Last edited by Quiksilver; Today at 10:46 AM.
    2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 3.0 CRD Overland - GDE Eco Tune + 2" Lift on 265/70/17 BFG KO2's
    2017 Venter Savuti + Tentco Jnr, Dometic CF50 Fridge + Snomaster Battery Box
    --
    Ex - 2005 Cherokee CRD

  6. #1246
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
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    Default Re: Electrickery for camping

    It seems your system is designed to operate while driving, if I read correctly?

    What is your plan for overnight supply?
    Your 1x105Ah battery may not hold up through the night when your fridge is running at optimum.
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  7. #1247
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Cape Town - RSA
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    34
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    2,697

    Default Re: Electrickery for camping

    Quote Originally Posted by JohanMaree View Post
    It seems your system is designed to operate while driving, if I read correctly?

    What is your plan for overnight supply?
    Your 1x105Ah battery may not hold up through the night when your fridge is running at optimum.
    Well, I dont think you can have anything overnight unless I setup a windmill.

    But yes, the motivation here is to find out if I will get by with 1x battery and a 120w solar panel, with a daily game drive. I don't think I will.

    Option 2:
    Get a second battery and leave it in the trailer running the fridge and getting solar. Therefore splitting the load between the two batteries.
    Last edited by Quiksilver; Today at 11:02 AM.
    2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 3.0 CRD Overland - GDE Eco Tune + 2" Lift on 265/70/17 BFG KO2's
    2017 Venter Savuti + Tentco Jnr, Dometic CF50 Fridge + Snomaster Battery Box
    --
    Ex - 2005 Cherokee CRD

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