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  1. #621
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    Default Re: Electrickery for camping

    Well mine is displaying battery voltage but no amps as yet - it is a rainy day here. Does solar give one amps on a cloudy day?

    Incidentally I see there is a section at the back of the meter for ventilation. I made a cut out when mounting so that this area is not blocked.




    Quote Originally Posted by Advocatus View Post
    Thanks Mr Tolbos and Hendrik. I have learned something ....

    Also ran a quick experiment/test with the meter.

    Connected the meter as per Paul's equation between source (charger/solar controller) and battery. (Battery connected to meter's load)

    Without input the meter displays the battery voltage (no amps or watt) - (thanks Hendrik)
    Attachment 480045

    With input from source it displays the amps (and even watt) going to the battery - and the increase in voltage going to the battery.
    Attachment 480046

    Paul.....it should work...
    Last edited by Paul Dold; 2018/03/07 at 12:13 PM.

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  2. #622
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    Default Re: Electrickery for camping

    Quote Originally Posted by Hendrik du Toit View Post
    Ive notice something a while back that i need to test again.....when you push amp through, you get a substantial voltage drop between input and output amps . Will test again.
    Ive tested again tonight pushing 7 amps through the meter and couldn’t simulate the voltage drop again.

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  3. #623
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    Default Re: Electrickery for camping

    My system 'balances' with 2 x 105 Ah batteries, 2 x 130W panels and 2 x 40 lt fridge and freezer units. Recharges usage daily perfect. Assumes sunlight of course and can accommodate 1-2 days of rainy weather before I need to make a plan, followed by at least 2-3 days of good sunlight to get back in shape

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  5. #624
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    Default Re: Electrickery for camping

    Here is a quick question, and as always if it is already discussed please forgive and point me in the right direction. Current set up is: dual battery in the car charged via the cars alternator and a NL solenoid switch. This additional battery also has a 12v point in the boot for a fridge and then a 50Amp BH plug into which I plug my trailer. The trailer also has a battery and this is looked after by a HCDP power panel. The dual battery in the car is not being looked after well at all, and I would like to install a dc-dc charger. My concern is this, can I run one dc-dc charger into another?
    Does this make sense?
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  6. #625
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    Default Re: Electrickery for camping

    So after some research - thanks works wifi - i have ascertained that, NO- you may not run one charger into another. In this instance i would need to disconnect the trailer from the cars dual battery and connect it to the cranking battery, so that that alternator is the one seeing the trailer battery and thus the Mk4 Power Panel will take over the management of this battery from the alternator. Thus the second battery will be a stand alone being looked after by the new dc-dc charger.
    Rob
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  7. #626
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    Default Re: Electrickery for camping

    Further back there was a discussion about using an inline switch so that the meter could be reset. Can anyone advise what switch to use? The switches I have seen are rated at 10A at 240V. Will it be safe to use on the load side of the aux battery where one could at times be drawing 30-40A at a guess? Fluffy has shown examples of how D.C. switches can arc quite dramatically

  8. #627
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    Default Re: Electrickery for camping

    Quote Originally Posted by Woolf View Post
    Further back there was a discussion about using an inline switch so that the meter could be reset. Can anyone advise what switch to use? The switches I have seen are rated at 10A at 240V. Will it be safe to use on the load side of the aux battery where one could at times be drawing 30-40A at a guess? Fluffy has shown examples of how D.C. switches can arc quite dramatically
    I have a 20 A 12V switch that I use on the input side of the battery. Got is from an electrical store in Boksburg, above Mica close to the East Rand mall.

    You apparently do get for bigger and but then they become really bulky. Will post a photo of the installation.

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  10. #628
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    Default Re: Electrickery for camping

    Quote Originally Posted by Gerhardvr26 View Post
    I have a 20 A 12V switch that I use on the input side of the battery. Got is from an electrical store in Boksburg, above Mica close to the East Rand mall.

    You apparently do get for bigger and but then they become really bulky. Will post a photo of the installation.
    Photo as promised, for what it's worth.

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  12. #629
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  14. #630
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    Default Re: Electrickery for camping

    That's neat Gerhard.

    If you can't find suitable DC switches, you can also use mini AC circuit breakers as switches, if you can fit them. But don't use low amp ratings, as they have a considerable volt drop across them when using 12VDC. I used 50A and 63A circuit breakers in my vehicle as switches.


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  16. #631
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    Default Re: Electrickery for camping

    Quote Originally Posted by Gerhardvr26 View Post
    Photo as promised, for what it's worth.
    Definitely worth it. That's exactly what I am looking for. 20A should be sufficient. Will make sure that no load is connected when zeroing so there will be no arcing across the terminals.

    Is the shop you are talking about in the building behind Roelene Electronics? There is a Shell garage at the exit of the parking lot.

    Another question for you. Have you noticed any issues with the ventilation slots at the back of the unit covered up?

    Thanks for your effort. Much appreciated
    Last edited by Woolf; 2018/03/18 at 05:13 PM.

  17. #632
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    Default Re: Electrickery for camping

    Quote Originally Posted by Woolf View Post
    Is the shop you are talking about in the building behind Roelene Electronics? There is a Shell garage at the exit of the parking lot.
    Spot on. When standing in front of the building, the entrance is to the very far right. Go up one flight of stairs and down the corridor for about 40 meters. Shop on the left hand side. Is open on Saturday mornings.

    Quote Originally Posted by Woolf View Post
    Another question for you. Have you noticed any issues with the ventilation slots at the back of the unit covered up?
    No, but I have not really put it through its paces yet. Had the panels on it for a couple of hours without an issue but that was it. I can't think that it's will get that hot with only 20 A passing through it.

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  19. #633
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    Default Re: Electrickery for camping

    Careful with the statement 'only 20A' on a 12V system. Wire thickness and fusing needs to be appropriate to avoid tears later. In my experience anyway.

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  20. #634
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    Default Re: Electrickery for camping

    Quote Originally Posted by Subok View Post
    Careful with the statement 'only 20A' on a 12V system. Wire thickness and fusing needs to be appropriate to avoid tears later. In my experience anyway.
    Was waiting for this.

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  21. #635
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    Default Re: Stock power supplies in campers

    Quote Originally Posted by a2iPhoto View Post
    I am considering to replace the MeanWell 24A charger/power supply in Conqueror with a Victron BlueSmart 12V/15A model in order to monitor charging through software App, as well as benefit from the 7 stage charging. This would obviously reduce current from 24A to 15A, and I am trying to understand what possible real life limitations this will have.

    A typical max use scenario would be:

    Fridge/Freezer - 5 to 7A
    LED lights - 1 to 2A
    USB charging - 1 to 2A

    I have a 2x 102Ah battery setup that needs to be charged (and 15A should be more than sufficient for this purpose).

    Since the various different manufacturers uses different chargers, and must have thought through this already, I am curious what is in use out there (i.e. I noted some Bushlapa models coming out with Victron but not sure what strength).
    Anyone?
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  22. #636
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    Default Re: Stock power supplies in campers

    Quote Originally Posted by a2iPhoto View Post
    I am considering to replace the MeanWell 24A charger/power supply in Conqueror with a Victron BlueSmart 12V/15A model in order to monitor charging through software App, as well as benefit from the 7 stage charging. This would obviously reduce current from 24A to 15A, and I am trying to understand what possible real life limitations this will have.

    A typical max use scenario would be:

    Fridge/Freezer - 5 to 7A
    LED lights - 1 to 2A
    USB charging - 1 to 2A

    I have a 2x 102Ah battery setup that needs to be charged (and 15A should be more than sufficient for this purpose).

    Since the various different manufacturers uses different chargers, and must have thought through this already, I am curious what is in use out there (i.e. I noted some Bushlapa models coming out with Victron but not sure what strength).
    In other words you will only be relying on solar power?
    How many watts solar do you have available?
    Is the panels mounted flat on your roof or can you adjust them to optimal angle to face the sun?

  23. #637
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    Default Electrickery for camping

    Quote Originally Posted by a2iPhoto View Post
    Anyone?
    i think both the meanwell 24amp and victron 15amp is 220v chargers. Meanwell is 3stage and victron 7 stage. 3 stages is correct for good charger (bulk, absorption & float stages) and more than 3 stages mostly looks like most marketing mumble jumble.
    Bushlapa went from 10amp ctek to 15amp victron. Recommended Charger size should be around 10% of battery ah, so 21amp in your case. 24amp should be close enough.

    I do not think you need app monitoring on 220v chargers as will only tell stage that in with wide range of battery charge status.https://www.victronenergy.co.za/char...t-ip22-charger

    I would rather get solar controller and small panel to supplement when there is no 220v available for the same money. Will also charge whilst towing if panel is roof mounted.

    Alternatively get a proper monitor that can accurate read state of battery measuring incoming and outgoing current with calculated remianing ah. See victron bmv700 or bmv712 now has bluetooth.
    https://www.victronenergy.co.za/batt.../bmv-712-smart
    Last edited by BennvdmWhk; 2018/03/19 at 07:11 PM.
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  24. #638
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    Default Re: Electrickery for camping

    Quote Originally Posted by Woolf View Post
    Another question for you. Have you noticed any issues with the ventilation slots at the back of the unit covered up?

    Thanks for your effort. Much appreciated
    Had the two 100 W panels in the full sun for a couple of hours this afternoon. Regularly felt the monitor for heat but could not detect any rise in temperature at all.

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  26. #639
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    Default Re: Electrickery for camping

    We had in the Echo 4 with 2x100 Amp batteries and the HCdP power pack mark iv with 12Amp charger for 6 years and never had an issue.
    The HCdP power pack had a 150 Watt solar input, many a time we camped with no 220 V and only once we ran dry on the day we departed.
    It was overcast for 3 of the 4 days we stayed

    Now in the BL we have Victron 15 Amp charger with 2 x 100 Amp batteries.
    The batteries are kept faily full as the camp only has power for 2 hours in the morning and 4 hours in the evening (did not use the solar as a test)
    For solar we have 2 x 100 Watt panels and a Victron 100/15 MPPT (tested for 2 1/2 days so far and OK).
    So far so good.
    To short a time have lapsed with the new setup.

    Should now more in May/June after some more tests
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  27. #640
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    Default Re: Electrickery for camping

    Having just changed my Hilux set-up from an RTT to a Blinkgat Camper conversion, it looks as if my previously basic electrical system must be improved by increasing the service battery capacity. My previous system was plain Vanilla Flavour: A 94 Ah Deep cycle battery mounted in the engine compartment and an 80W solar panel on the RTT, all controlled by a C-TEK D250S mounted behind the cubby hole. Two cables of 10 mm2 feed back to the tailgate, where the Snomaster 52 L and one LED light were mounted. This has worked well.

    Now I have doubled the solar panels to 160 Watt and increased the load by with more lights, USB chargers etc, and a 12V fan for hot nights. It seems to me that I can make it all work very simply by (in effect) inserting a second identical 94 Ah battery into the 10 mm2 line at a convenient spot in the camper body. I would buy two batteries so that both start off in the same condition.

    Am I wrong?
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