Electrickery for camping - Page 15





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  1. #281
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    Quote Originally Posted by gmmcdonald View Post
    Only option unless you have solar is to directly connect the batteries so they can charge while running and then disconnect when vehicle is not running. PITA but can work.
    Exactly.

    That is all the NL does anyway.
    Cheers

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  2. #282
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    Thanks everyone
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  3. #283
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    Default electricity

    i bought this 8 fuse holder at 4x4 direct this morning and want to supply 12v from the battery in the trailor to the fuse holder and from a fuse to a led light ,and the fridge and so on .

    what is the best way to do it ,thanks
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  4. #284
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    If I run a 440 watt appliance from an 12v - 220v inverter the formula amp=watt/volt indicates the current drawn from the inverter is 2 amp. If I power the inverter from a 12v battery and apply the same formula, does the inverter draws 36.6 amp from the battery?


    Hennie Beukes
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  5. #285
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    Quote Originally Posted by Let's Play View Post
    If I run a 440 watt appliance from an 12v - 220v inverter the formula amp=watt/volt indicates the current drawn from the inverter is 2 amp. If I power the inverter from a 12v battery and apply the same formula, does the inverter draws 36.6 amp from the battery?

    You can expect it to draw anything from 5% to20% more due to inefficiencies (losses) in the inverter and cabling.
    Eggie.

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  6. #286
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    Default Wire Thickness

    This question may have been asked and answered, but I could not find it. What thickness wire do I use from the primary battery of my car to the Brad Harrison at the tow hitch to charge the battery in my trailer through a MK 3 HCDP panel?

  7. #287
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    Quote Originally Posted by frans k View Post
    This question may have been asked and answered, but I could not find it. What thickness wire do I use from the primary battery of my car to the Brad Harrison at the tow hitch to charge the battery in my trailer through a MK 3 HCDP panel?

    A 6mm˛ cable will do, but if you go to all the trouble and with possible future expansion plans in mind, it would be better to use a 10mm˛ cable. Even 16mm˛ could make sense to some.

    Whichever you use, remember to fuse it according to size.
    Eggie.

    What this country needs more and more, are more unemployed politicians.
    - apology to Edward Langley.

  8. #288
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    Thanks. I have a 16 mm2 cable from the aux battery in the engine compartment to the load bin. I'll go with 6 mm2. What size fuse?

  9. #289
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    50A provided that the cable is kept away from heat sources and not in a bundle with other cable, otherwise 30A.
    Eggie.

    What this country needs more and more, are more unemployed politicians.
    - apology to Edward Langley.

  10. #290
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    Hi Guys. I started reading this thread.(new to the forum and 4x4). electricity is not my strong point. I want to get a good system built into my 4x4 trailer that runs off dual battery system and solar. Who in cape town does a good job at this. I don't mind going to one of you guys on here that seem to be more meticulous than i think alot of shops would be. I want to do my first trip though NAM and Bot in April and then next year oct a trip up to Rwanda.

  11. #291
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eggie View Post
    50A provided that the cable is kept away from heat sources and not in a bundle with other cable, otherwise 30A.
    Thank you. Much appreciated.

  12. #292
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    Question for the experts and people that use a HCDP (12A) DC-DC Charger. I have a setup in my Trailer where I use Solar Panels (160W) to charge a battery in the trailer (See attached picture).

    I want to connect my Bushpower battery pack (it is the HCDP 12A dc-dc charger) to the system to charge for example when stationary for a few days. With my limited knowledge I basically have 2 options to connect the battery pack to the SP charging system.
    A: I could use the "Appliance' terminals from the regulator and plug that into the power pack - SELECT the CAR option on the HCDP charger and isolate the 2 batteries. or
    B: I could run directly from the Trailer battery, again to the HCDP charger (On CAR again) but if I leave the battery pack connected I could potentially run the trailer battery flat during the night (or bad weather) when the Solar panels are not charging.

    My Question to the experts: Which option would be the best? (I am leaning toward option A at the moment.
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    Last edited by mtbbiker; 2015/12/21 at 10:25 AM.

  13. #293
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    Morning all.
    I’m busy with a repair and rebuild project on a Suzuki SJ410 that has a Nissan 1400motor and 4 speed gearbox fitted.
    With all the repair and replacement work I'm doing on the electrical system at themoment, I'm thinking of upgrading the alternator on the Nissan 1400 motor while I'm about it. I haven't a clue what the output is on the one that is fitted but it's physically very small. I have 2 spare alternators from Toyota 1600 20Valve engines which I could use but would have to change the pulleys over as the Nissan runs a V-belt and the Toyota a PK4 belt. Can anyone advise on what alternator output I should be looking at for a system that will be supplying spot-lights, a light bar and possibly a second battery in the future.The long term plan is to modify and upgrade the SJ410 and my one trailer for off-road camping trips. As a freelance photographer, I might be dragging a laptopcomputer and charging gear for the camera batteries.
    The battery that is fitted is also quite small so before I finalise the battery box build, what size battery would be recommended as the vehicles primary battery.
    Last edited by Paul#25; 2016/01/07 at 10:24 AM.

  14. #294
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paul#25 View Post
    Morning all.
    I’m busy with a repair and rebuild project on a Suzuki SJ410 that has a Nissan 1400motor and 4 speed gearbox fitted.
    With all the repair and replacement work I'm doing on the electrical system at themoment, I'm thinking of upgrading the alternator on the Nissan 1400 motor while I'm about it. I haven't a clue what the output is on the one that is fitted but it's physically very small. I have 2 spare alternators from Toyota 1600 20Valve engines which I could use but would have to change the pulleys over as the Nissan runs a V-belt and the Toyota a PK4 belt. Can anyone advise on what alternator output I should be looking at for a system that will be supplying spot-lights, a light bar and possibly a second battery in the future.The long term plan is to modify and upgrade the SJ410 and my one trailer for off-road camping trips. As a freelance photographer, I might be dragging a laptopcomputer and charging gear for the camera batteries.
    The battery that is fitted is also quite small so before I finalise the battery box build, what size battery would be recommended as the vehicles primary battery.

    I'm somewhat out of my league on this, but the following might help:

    Regular lights (front, rear, internal) - 15A
    plus spots - 10A
    plus light bar - 5A to 10A
    2nd battery - 25A (this includes a DC-DC and the bits & bobs that you mention)
    TOTAL around 60A (a rather big alternator for your engine size).

    The primary battery: Fit a battery as big as that which fits the available space. A 70Ahr is serious overkill, but for what it seems you intend using it, it would be nice. A 40Ahr and even smaller could also do for a petrol engine, it all depends on space availability.

    The utility battery size is probably more important - 100Ahr at least.
    Eggie.

    What this country needs more and more, are more unemployed politicians.
    - apology to Edward Langley.

  15. #295
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    Hi everybody,

    I want to know if it will be possible to do the following:

    To make circuit diagrams available of working and tested dual batt systems.

    Accompanied by specifications like wire and fuse sizes, possible suppliers, hints of routing and installation etc.

    A short description of the process.

    This can be used by members with limited skills to do an installation, to identify so called boffins and tricky salesmen. (also those with "rusted" knoledge)

    This must not be seen as "stealing" of ideas, but rather as sharing of information!

    Members doing their own installations MUST have it checked before using!

    The can also report back with ideas or problems encountered.

    I hope that this will make life easier for some members.

    Thanx

  16. #296
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    Default Re: Electrickery for camping

    Uitstekende werk, dankie

  17. #297
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    Default Re: Electrickery for camping

    Hi Lappies,

    I saw your request and decided to post a diagram of my setup

    A few remarks:

    I decided to do everything myself, because then I can trace and rectify any issue out in the bush myself

    I used an amplifier wiring kit supplied by Autostyle http://www.autostyle.co.za/car-audio...iring-kit.html
    and additional fuse holder
    http://www.autostyle.co.za/car-audio...se-holder.html

    The breakers are DIN Rail mountable household breakers mounted in a Schneider Electrical weather proof plastic box with the 12V sockets mounted on the front

    The + and - supply cables I ran on top of the chassis rails through to the load bin and then through holes that I drilled below the battery box, through rubber grommets

    My battery box http://www.outdoorwarehouse.co.za/pr...ge-battery-box

    100A solenoid switch, 10A relay and toggle switch I purchased from http://www.caelex.co.za/

    My system has been in use for seven years and despite heavy usage I received five year's service from the first deep cycle battery

    When I am stationary and charging the battery from a solar panel I hook the solar panel and charge controller up to the secondary battery poles directly

    I will never suggest that my system is the ideal, nor the ultimate, but - it has served me very well for a reasonable expense with 0 hassles

    Have a nice one

    Willie
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  18. #298
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    Default Re: Electrickery for camping

    this is the diagram of my current setup.
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    Currently do not own a 4x4, driving a sedan
    Ex: 2013 Ford Ranger 3.2 XLT 4x4 auto
    Ex: 2012 Ford Ranger 3.2 XLT 4x4 auto
    Ex: 2013 Ford Ranger 2.2 XLS 2WD manual
    Ex: 2009 Mazda BT50 3.0 CRDi double cab manual

  19. #299
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    Default Re: Electrickery for camping

    One question!
    Why, on most diagrams in this thread, are shunts for ammeters connected in the negative line?
    It makes sense if it is a complete isolated circuit, but main batt connected to earth(body)! Any electrical installation with neg connected to earth will bypass the ammeter(eg. radio earthing via bracket and earth wire via lug to closest bare metal)
    Although metal is a relative bad conductor, the mass of the body makes it a convenient earting contact.
    Just asking!!!!

  20. #300
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    Default Re: Electrickery for camping

    Quote Originally Posted by Lappies Labuschagne View Post
    One question!
    Why, on most diagrams in this thread, are shunts for ammeters connected in the negative line?
    It makes sense if it is a complete isolated circuit, but main batt connected to earth(body)! Any electrical installation with neg connected to earth will bypass the ammeter(eg. radio earthing via bracket and earth wire via lug to closest bare metal)
    Although metal is a relative bad conductor, the mass of the body makes it a convenient earting contact.
    Just asking!!!!

    Valid question for it does seem crazy (but it is not).

    The shunt is placed in the neg(-) circuit of the auxiliary battery. The aux battery neg pole is therefore ever so slightly off earth potential, but you never use the neg pole of the battery to drive anything. Instead all is linked to the other side of the shunt, which is true earth anyway. So even if appliances touch the framework, it has no effect. Just do not use the neg side of the battery to connect to your appliances or anything other than the shunt itself.
    Eggie.

    What this country needs more and more, are more unemployed politicians.
    - apology to Edward Langley.

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