Electrickery for camping - Page 13





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  1. #241
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    Default Spanner in the works.

    Quote Originally Posted by bokvirsports View Post
    As Chris said there will be an "evolution" of technology as time goes by.

    I would like to ask the question of the following:

    I have studied going off grid at home which is like camping at home because you have to provide with and for various tastes and needs. I am working on a project where a new housing development will be done completely off grid NO ESKOM power at all, and need to ask the following. Panels, Batteries, LED lights only etc.

    I've been thinking of this for a while now, I would like to know if anyone has the answer on running an off road fridge off Capacitors rather than Batteries or a combination of both what will be the best option because capacitors come both in slow and fast discharge units and I have seen videos of people starting a car on a pack of capacitors reading only just over 10 volts after having run all he car accessories for about half an hour.

    SO my question is can it be done on capacitors or is batteries the only way
    What are the problems possibly associated with capacitors only

    More questions than answers at this stage but maybe a starting point.

    You will need a heck of a lot of capacitor capacity to start a car or run your fridge for any length of time. I don't doubt that this is possible, just that it is not practical (in terms of size & cost). Perhaps if technology advances in this direction it could become viable.

    Until then, go with a battery, perhaps even the Tesla lithium battery may be a cost effective solution fairly soon.
    Last edited by Eggie; 2015/06/28 at 09:56 PM.
    Eggie.

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  2. #242
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    Hi guys, I'm following the one wiring diagram from the post and an struggling to receive a current reading from my ctek, I have attached a photo of the wiring setu diagram and supplied mine as well.

    I have tried connecting the yellow cable from the ammeter on both sides of the shunt to see if there was a difference as well add connecting the positive wires directly from the ctek and the positive bus bar.

    Hope somebody can help,
    Nick
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  3. #243
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    Are you getting a voltage reading?
    Safe Diving

    Andy

    2013 Isuzu KB6 300 DC 4X4

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/andrews_underwater_images/

  4. #244
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    Quote Originally Posted by AndyT View Post
    Are you getting a voltage reading?
    Hi Andy,

    I am yes. I'm having a bit of an irregularity in addition to this, I have a cable coming off each terminal, the negative from the secondary battery has an isolator for safety sake. I also have a dual battery monitor in place, on the secondary it's connected after the isolator (so it's not supposed to pick up until switched on).

    I was removing the cabling (battery disconnected by isolator) and the two positive wires from both batteries touched and the battery monitor alarm went on? This seems very strange to me (the secondary battery circuit is not complete). This also happened if the two negatives touched if not connected to the ctek.

    I'm busy taking my main cables out now to check if there's a short or damage or something.
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  5. #245
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    Is the current reading blank or does it display zeroes ?

    The vehicle is running when you are trying to get a current reading ?

    Also is your secondary battery not perhaps fully charged ?
    Last edited by AndyT; 2015/07/09 at 08:17 PM.
    Safe Diving

    Andy

    2013 Isuzu KB6 300 DC 4X4

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/andrews_underwater_images/

  6. #246
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    Quote Originally Posted by AndyT View Post
    The vehicle is running when you are trying to get a current reading ?

    Also is your secondary battery not perhaps fully charged ?
    When the car is off I get a voltage reading, after turning on the car it takes a while for the ctek to recognise the charge coming from the primary battery, thereafter the voltage starts increasing but no amps, surely there should be an anno reading along with the increased voltage or is this just charge flowing through?

    I connected my fridge to see if it would cause the ctek to charge but it didn't make a difference, I could see the fridge using current on another monitor that I have setup.

    I am still worried that there is a short somewhere and that the batteries are being connected in parallel somehow (although I still struggle with this as my one terminal was disconnected )
    I have checked the wiring and everything is fine, I have come to the conclusion that when the wires connected they were essentially connecting the wires for the battery monitor to the same battery (the negative for the battery monitor is after the isolator (i.e. when the battery is isolated the monitor does not display for it))
    slightly embarrassing but when stressing or being over cautious rationality seems to go out the window
    Last edited by nicksimp08; 2015/07/10 at 09:15 AM. Reason: additional information added
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  7. #247
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    As far as I can see your wiring diagram looks Ok, I managed to install 4 of these VA meters without issue.

    The only other thing I can think of is that the shunt and meter could be a mismatch.
    Otherwise either a faulty meter or their is an issue with your wiring as you have mentioned.
    Safe Diving

    Andy

    2013 Isuzu KB6 300 DC 4X4

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/andrews_underwater_images/

  8. #248
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    Quote Originally Posted by AndyT View Post
    As far as I can see your wiring diagram looks Ok, I managed to install 4 of these VA meters without issue.

    The only other thing I can think of is that the shunt and meter could be a mismatch.
    Otherwise either a faulty meter or their is an issue with your wiring as you have mentioned.
    I purchased 3 va meters from 4x4direct that came bundled with the 100A shunts so I am hoping they came with the correct match. I tried a different meter with the shunt which gave the same effect but didnt think of trying on a different shunt, I will give this a bash next week along with running the battery a bit lower before testing and let you know if it was that.
    <a href="http://www.fuelly.com/car/land_rover/defender-90/2000/nicksimp08/366301" target="_blank"><img src="https://badges.fuelly.com/images/sig-metric/366301.png" width="500" height="63" alt="Fuelly" title="Share and compare MPG at Fuelly" border="0"/></a>

  9. #249
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    How much current are you drawing? The spec says the following about the 100A meter
    "Measure Current Range 20-100A forward current"
    Maybe the scaling is such a way that it won't register current below 20A?

    They also state this:
    "NOTE: These Amp meters are more accurate towards the upper end of the range. Do not buy a 100Amp meter if you intend to measure 1 Amp, it will not work. If you will measure low amps like a camping fridge (typicaly 5 to 8 Amp), rather for the 20 Amp unit."

    Not sure if it's just the accuracy or the working as well that is influenced by the shunt size.

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  11. #250
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    Quote Originally Posted by MThompson View Post
    How much current are you drawing? The spec says the following about the 100A meter
    "Measure Current Range 20-100A forward current"
    Maybe the scaling is such a way that it won't register current below 20A?

    They also state this:
    "NOTE: These Amp meters are more accurate towards the upper end of the range. Do not buy a 100Amp meter if you intend to measure 1 Amp, it will not work. If you will measure low amps like a camping fridge (typicaly 5 to 8 Amp), rather for the 20 Amp unit."

    Not sure if it's just the accuracy or the working as well that is influenced by the shunt size.
    Unfortunately I did not read that far down the description to see that, however I will test again and see what results I get, maybe I will put a multimeter inline and see what I get.

    I did do initial tests with a 12v bulb which was drawing 0.1A on the ammeter (using the 100A shunt) so I think some value should be displayed.

    Do you know if its possible to use a smaller shunt or are the components in the actual ammeter different to allow for the current?
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  12. #251
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    Quote Originally Posted by MThompson View Post
    How much current are you drawing? The spec says the following about the 100A meter
    "Measure Current Range 20-100A forward current"
    Maybe the scaling is such a way that it won't register current below 20A?

    They also state this:
    "NOTE: These Amp meters are more accurate towards the upper end of the range. Do not buy a 100Amp meter if you intend to measure 1 Amp, it will not work. If you will measure low amps like a camping fridge (typicaly 5 to 8 Amp), rather for the 20 Amp unit."

    Not sure if it's just the accuracy or the working as well that is influenced by the shunt size.

    Probably a misprint. A meter that only reads from 20% and upwards of full scale is very unlikely.

    I do not use one of these meters, but I suspect that it will reasonably read all values below 20A, just perhaps with a reduced accuracy, ie not within the normal specification.
    Eggie.

    What this country needs more and more, are more unemployed politicians.
    - apology to Edward Langley.

  13. #252
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eggie View Post
    Probably a misprint. A meter that only reads from 20% and upwards of full scale is very unlikely.

    I do not use one of these meters, but I suspect that it will reasonably read all values below 20A, just perhaps with a reduced accuracy, ie not within the normal specification.
    That's my thoughts as well. It should in my opinion show at least something...but I guess it all depends on the adc scaling. If the adc needs for example 150mV to read and display 0.1Amp and use 0.1Amp steps and you only draw for example 0.04mA which should give approx 70mV, that could make that the adc doesn't register the reading. I believe this is why they have 3 versions to allow for different scaling factors and readings to allow better accuracy. Hope this makes some sense and this is just a thought as to where to look at the problem.

  14. #253
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    Looking at the specs now....all models has a 0.1A resolution....so anything above 100mA should register and be displayed.

  15. #254
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    I doubt it but could having a bus bar in the circuit cause the issue?
    The reason I doubt it is because all negatives are "grouped" on the ctek itself.

    I have deviated from the original diagrams (after attempting them) and linked the power cables from the meters (separate to the info cables) to the bus bars (being the secondary battery (the negative bar sharing both batteries)), I tried having both the power and info cables linked as in the diagram but the results were the same (and I wanted the meters lit even if there was no activity)

    Despite everything not working 100% yet I've attached in progress shots.

    Should I open a separate thread that we can link from here for reference and to avoid cluttering this thread? Any suggestions on a title?
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  16. #255
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    I have made some rough circuit diagrams of my setup, maybe it can clarify as to where the issue is. Let me know if anything is out of place, I did this out of my head last night (I just noticed now that I do not show the service batter + going through the fusebox).

    The reason for two seperate diagrams is that I have tried both ways (I have also tried without the ammeter and cig plug setup.
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  17. #256
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    Hallo all. I am quite new here. This is a very nice thread. I have learned a lot here. I read through all the posts about 2 or 3 months ago. I cannot recall someone with the same problem as I have. Here's my problem:

    I have two 105ah batteries connected to a 1000W pure sine invertor. A Ctek D250S and two 100W solar panels. (Panels not connected now). I use a Ctek Multi XS 7000 (220V - 12 V (7 Amp)) charger when the system is connected to the TV, DSTV's, Internet router. The charger does not feed the D250S, but the batteries directly. The 7A is not enough if the TV is on . I want to buy another charger, but here is my question. Should I buy a 15A - 20A smart charger to charge the batteries directly, or a cheaper charger to feed the D250S at alternator or solar inputs, as the D250S is a smart charger.

  18. #257
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mickey1200 View Post
    Hallo all. I am quite new here. This is a very nice thread. I have learned a lot here. I read through all the posts about 2 or 3 months ago. I cannot recall someone with the same problem as I have. Here's my problem:

    I have two 105ah batteries connected to a 1000W pure sine invertor. A Ctek D250S and two 100W solar panels. (Panels not connected now). I use a Ctek Multi XS 7000 (220V - 12 V (7 Amp)) charger when the system is connected to the TV, DSTV's, Internet router. The charger does not feed the D250S, but the batteries directly. The 7A is not enough if the TV is on . I want to buy another charger, but here is my question. Should I buy a 15A - 20A smart charger to charge the batteries directly, or a cheaper charger to feed the D250S at alternator or solar inputs, as the D250S is a smart charger.
    It is a very handy thread indeed.

    Do not feed the D250S's solar input with a charger or power supply. It is not designed for this type of supply at the solar input, and the D250S could be damaged unintentionally.

    If you can afford it, it would be safest to charge the 2 x 105Ahr batteries directly with a smart charger of 20A to 30A capability.
    Eggie.

    What this country needs more and more, are more unemployed politicians.
    - apology to Edward Langley.

  19. #258
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    If have a D250S charger installed between the vehicle main battery and trailer's. Will the trailer's battery draw power from the main battery if vehicle is switched off? There's no solenoid installed.

    Thanks
    Paul

  20. #259
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pauls View Post
    If have a D250S charger installed between the vehicle main battery and trailer's. Will the trailer's battery draw power from the main battery if vehicle is switched off? There's no solenoid installed.

    Thanks
    Paul

    Paul, the D250S is designed to switch off when the main battery voltage is 12,7V or less.
    So the answer is no and no solenoid is needed.
    Eggie.

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    - apology to Edward Langley.

  21. #260
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eggie View Post
    It is a very handy thread indeed.

    Do not feed the D250S's solar input with a charger or power supply. It is not designed for this type of supply at the solar input, and the D250S could be damaged unintentionally.

    If you can afford it, it would be safest to charge the 2 x 105Ahr batteries directly with a smart charger of 20A to 30A capability.
    If the charger has a supply setting, you can can connect it to the solar connection on supply mode to the 250, but not in charger mode, but why do this if you can connect it direct to the battery.
    Johan Kriel

    LC's and Echo Chobe

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