Electrickery for camping - Page 12





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  1. #221
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    Quote Originally Posted by MXDURO View Post
    Those i can get everywhere but i need 1 that gets + main supply and the fuses are already connected to that + supply. See pic.
    Thus is a "modular unit" from SPARXX.


    Takes some explaining, then they hand you the modules to make up this unit ....


    mounting unit (two options - side or bottom mount)
    buzz bar / bolt on module
    then the fuse module, WITH bridge connector.


    The box is a standard electrical box.

  2. #222
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    Ok cool, ek sal maar 1 moet self bou.

  3. #223
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    Very good article that even I could understand.

    Just wish I had seen it before buying my 2 decade old colehersee relay system (as you guess, I am still at the fridge only stage but with eyes on the permanently mounted solar)

    '10 Mitsubishi Triton 3.2 DiD Manual 4x4
    Lets go play!!

  4. #224
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    Quote Originally Posted by dominee View Post
    Very good article that even I could understand.

    Just wish I had seen it before buying my 2 decade old colehersee relay system (as you guess, I am still at the fridge only stage but with eyes on the permanently mounted solar)
    be glad you saw it before spending more on a Ctek than you will pay for a HCdP Mk 4 Panel !

  5. #225
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    Not, if you have a buddy that travels the world and brings you all the stuff for less than 1/2 the price it costs here.

  6. #226
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    Default Solar tilt angles

    Hi guys

    thought i would add it here for anyones use.

    I set this up according to south africa LAT's.

    shout if you want other countries
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    - - Jurgens Xt120 - Howling moon star gaser tent - -

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  7. #227
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    I got the hcdp Mk II box in the caravan that can only accommodate 120 watt solars. I need more than 120 watt. Mk IV box is about R5000.

    Installed a separate solar controller to the battery, a Victron MPPT 75 /15 for R1330, 200 Watt (max 75 PV and 15 amps), which will any way only be used when not connected to the vehicle.
    Last edited by JLK; 2015/02/20 at 10:43 AM.
    Johan Kriel

    LC's and Echo Chobe

  8. #228
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    Johan, good news is that the Victron 75/15 can handle more than 200W of panel. The output current to the battery is automatically (and safely) limited to 15A.
    Last edited by Eggie; 2015/02/20 at 12:44 PM.
    Eggie.

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  9. #229
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    Great news, so I can go for a bigger panel to get longer hours a higher charge.
    Johan Kriel

    LC's and Echo Chobe

  10. #230
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    Default Electrickery for camping

    JLK, you can now also connect your panels in series, as Victron can take up to 75v input voltage. Less losses through cables when running higher volts, as amps drops. On bigger installations, this makes cabling a lot easier and cheaper as can use thinner cables.

    Victron changes volts back to 14.4v and ups the amps for best charging.
    I see it can also switch loads to run directly of solar & not battery. Might be worthwhile to add BH plugs for quick transfer of loads where standing for a long time with no driving.
    Last edited by BennvdmWhk; 2015/02/20 at 02:09 PM.
    Bennie van der Merwe
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  11. #231
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    Quote Originally Posted by ChrisF View Post
    Project RANGER electrickery – Power OUTPUTS -



    Hi Chris

    Sorry to bump an old thread, but I recently purchased my MK4 panel, and Im planning my installation now into my conqueror Companion

    I see on this Picture that you only used the one lights out "port" for the 5 LED Strips.

    My Question is regarding that extra port that is open, I have a 220v or gas geyser. Now the gas geyser users 12v for the igniter when running on gas, can I connect the igniter to that extra lights port, or should I rather add it to the water pump port?

    OR

    Should I use the lights out port but also add another switch to the cable going out so that I can control when the Igniter needs to run? Why I am asking this is because if I use the lights out port the igniter will permanently try and ignite if I put the lights on at the MK4 switch?

    I hope you understand the situation and question

    Thank you in advance

  12. #232
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    Charlie

    There are 11 cables coming from the gesyser to the panel.

    - 3x 220V
    - 2 for the LED light to show whether it is on - white and yellow (the LED also blink when the gas is igniting)
    - 2 to power the small electronic board in the geyser (black and red)
    - 2x green ones and 2x purple ones. Two of these switch the geyser between gas or 220 and the other is on/off (I think).

    Have a look at the Hansen website. There is a download which gives you very good info

    http://www.hansenproducts.co.za/tech...formation.html

  13. #233
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    Thanx for that info LdLL. I dont think my geyser is wired like that now, its a very old installation, 2008. And it looks very custom made.... This will help me a lot to get it to the way it must be! This is going to be a lot of work
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  14. #234
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    Quote Originally Posted by Charlie100 View Post
    Thanx for that info LdLL. I dont think my geyser is wired like that now, its a very old installation, 2008. And it looks very custom made.... This will help me a lot to get it to the way it must be! This is going to be a lot of work
    No problem

  15. #235
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    Hi ChrisF Your ELECTRICERY posting has very appreciatively been read and sort of understood. I have however another scenario that has no doubt been answered many times in different threads but hopefully you can short circuit (pun intended ) my search. I have just bought a Bush Lapa trailer that has a Hcdp Mk4 R00 panel exactly like the one you installed in the Ranger. My question is that the panel is presently wired to an external fixed Solar Panel on the roof of the trailer. There is also a BH plug at the front of my trailer for connecting to the alternator of the tow vehicle, I have checked the charge from the car and it seems to be charging from the alternator when connected to this BH. Can I connect an additional movable Solar Panel through a regulator to this BH to supplement the fixed SP when the vehicle is parked in the shade.
    Greg Hudson
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  16. #236
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bialetti View Post
    Hi ChrisF Your ELECTRICERY posting has very appreciatively been read and sort of understood. I have however another scenario that has no doubt been answered many times in different threads but hopefully you can short circuit (pun intended ) my search. I have just bought a Bush Lapa trailer that has a Hcdp Mk4 R00 panel exactly like the one you installed in the Ranger. My question is that the panel is presently wired to an external fixed Solar Panel on the roof of the trailer. There is also a BH plug at the front of my trailer for connecting to the alternator of the tow vehicle, I have checked the charge from the car and it seems to be charging from the alternator when connected to this BH. Can I connect an additional movable Solar Panel through a regulator to this BH to supplement the fixed SP when the vehicle is parked in the shade.
    Hi there, try Henk B or get hold of Manie direct from HcDP . They answer right smartly.
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  17. #237
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    Default Electrickery for camping

    Quote Originally Posted by Bialetti View Post
    Hi ChrisF Your ELECTRICERY posting has very appreciatively been read and sort of understood. I have however another scenario that has no doubt been answered many times in different threads but hopefully you can short circuit (pun intended ) my search. I have just bought a Bush Lapa trailer that has a Hcdp Mk4 R00 panel exactly like the one you installed in the Ranger. My question is that the panel is presently wired to an external fixed Solar Panel on the roof of the trailer. There is also a BH plug at the front of my trailer for connecting to the alternator of the tow vehicle, I have checked the charge from the car and it seems to be charging from the alternator when connected to this BH. Can I connect an additional movable Solar Panel through a regulator to this BH to supplement the fixed SP when the vehicle is parked in the shade.

    Short answer - No. Look for Per a previous reply from Manie of HCDP, I think on the Bushlapa mods thread on this.

    If connected to the front BH plug, the controller switches all load directly to the panel as would have done with alternator to allow faster charging. This load directly to the panel causes the voltage to drop below disconnect voltage when engine is turned off & this connect disconnect repeats to cause it to fail.
    If total solar panel watts is less than what hcdp can take - think 180w max on mk4, just add a second wire in paralel on the solar input. Ideally Tryget panels of the same type or similar voltage for max efficiency on a shared controller. We put our external plug on the top of the 220v plug inlet as per the mods document. You just need to remove the flip cover of the blue plug as can be in the way
    Last edited by BennvdmWhk; 2015/06/11 at 09:04 PM.
    Bennie van der Merwe
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  18. #238
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    Found it - here is the direct reply from Manie. http://4x4tribe.co.za/forum/showpost...postcount=2859
    Bennie van der Merwe
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    2007 Discovery 3 V8 SE
    Prev 2001 Pajero 3.2 DiD Lwb M/T

  19. #239
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    Thank you very much you guys are encyclopedias. I had seen that link but could not find again
    Greg Hudson
    2009 Prado 4.0 Petrol
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  20. #240
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    Default Spanner in the works

    As Chris said there will be an "evolution" of technology as time goes by.

    I would like to ask the question of the following:

    I have studied going off grid at home which is like camping at home because you have to provide with and for various tastes and needs. I am working on a project where a new housing development will be done completely off grid NO ESKOM power at all, and need to ask the following. Panels, Batteries, LED lights only etc.

    I've been thinking of this for a while now, I would like to know if anyone has the answer on running an off road fridge off Capacitors rather than Batteries or a combination of both what will be the best option because capacitors come both in slow and fast discharge units and I have seen videos of people starting a car on a pack of capacitors reading only just over 10 volts after having run all he car accessories for about half an hour.

    SO my question is can it be done on capacitors or is batteries the only way
    What are the problems possibly associated with capacitors only

    More questions than answers at this stage but maybe a starting point.
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