Electrickery for camping - Page 11





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  1. #201
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    Quote Originally Posted by ash007 View Post
    Thanks Chris
    Would love to hear the other answers from Manni.
    It seems like this pannel would work so much better for me than the cteck and all the addons for distribution and charging.
    I am hoping to learn from all your school fees Chris and do it once properly.
    P.S. will find a way to block wheels whilst connected to AC
    I LOVE my Ctek. But as you say, this panel is just SO MUCH cleaner and easier than the Ctek and all the add-on's. Should I do a new installation for myself tomorrow - Mk4 Power Panel without a doubt !!




    a friend use a "clip-on tag" - as soon as the 220V is connected the tag is clipped onto the steering wheel.


    Elders was on charge at home ... got in and drove off ... nearly ripped the plug box off the wall !!!
    I now open the door at the back and loop the lead over the handle - cant close the door and not remember about the 220V connected.

  2. #202
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    Quote Originally Posted by ChrisF View Post
    Hi Ashley some interesting questions. We were able to figure out some of these as we did the installation, but I love to contact Manie to get all the answers. Here are what we have figured out :

    2) believe this to be same as the 12A charger - thus while on alternator power, charging the battery at 12A, WHILE providing power to the fridge without reducing the charge rate. Thus a 4 hour drive required to charge the battery at 50% SOC.

    3) we noted two fuses - 1 small fuse for the 220V charger, 1 off 25A fuse for the complete unit. The drawing also requires a 50A fuse to be fitted at the 2nd battery.

    4) would love to know

    5) YES We played between solar\alternator\220V ... it has about a 30 second delay for each switch over, but does so completely automatically !! NO issue having the 220V connected WHILE starting the engine.

    6, 7) due to the installation configuration the box with the power panel wont be opened each time. Thus ALL switches were left ON.

    dont know for sure. Expect it to be charger only. Surely one of the questions I would love Manie to elaborate on ....

    9) it came with this configuration. Testing showed it took about 30 seconds before switching off. (MUCH simpler installation - simple bolt on to the primary battery, with no need to T into vehicle wiring. Remember this Ranger had 1 000km on the clock when we did this installation. DONT want to touch the vehicle wiring at this stage)

    10) we tested it, and the charge rate DO drop down on a full battery. Would appreciate some confirmation from Manie on the float charging of this unit ...
    NOTE - from previous school fees - make SURE you cant drive off with the 220V socket plugged in ...
    Hi All,

    Nice project Chris, super well done.

    Just one point that I am not sure if you covered in your answer above.

    The Charger may only be 12A but unlike C-Tek and others the entire max current is available for the battery to charge and the normal load is run by a bypass switch when charging from the alternator. That's why the unit has separate Load and Aux Battery terminals.

    Also you don't need a temp sensor because the charge rate of 12A is spot on for a 10C charge for a 105AH battery.
    Cheers

    ZS5KAD
    3 V8's
    NA TwinTurbo SuperCharger
    A V6 and an inline 4

    The frogs are starting to notice that the water is getting warm but it is already too hot to do anything about it.....

  3. #203
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    Thanks Fluffy
    Ashley

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  4. #204
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    Quote Originally Posted by ash007 View Post

    4. Is the solar charger a MPPT unit?
    MPPC solar controller

  5. #205
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    Quote Originally Posted by ChrisF View Post
    Should I do a new installation for myself tomorrow - Mk4 Power Panel without a doubt !!
    Jip agree the panel setup is excellent with the only drawback that it is not portable.

  6. #206
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    Quote Originally Posted by mfuwefarmer View Post
    Jip agree the panel setup is excellent with the only drawback that it is not portable.

    Probably a stupid question, but I admit I know very little about this.

    How big a disadvantage is that?

  7. #207
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    That depends on your camping style
    The panel is ideal for a trailer setup or a dedicated overlanding vehicle.
    I have the panel in my trailer and its brilliant

    But for my portable box I now have a 12amp HCDP unit attached to a NL box and its an excellent alternative to the solenoid system at roughly the same price as a fully kitted NL box.

    The portable box can be removed from the vehicle and be placed in a cooler environment thus saving on battery power consumption

  8. #208
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    Thanks Mfuwefarmer

    Is there a difference between MPPT and MPPC
    Ashley

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  9. #209
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    Quote Originally Posted by ash007 View Post
    Thanks Mfuwefarmer

    Is there a difference between MPPT and MPPC
    Manie explains it quiet well, read this post
    Last edited by mfuwefarmer; 2014/12/27 at 04:40 PM.

  10. #210
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    Thanks Mfuwefarmer for the help
    Lets hope Manie_dup pitches up soon to answer questions 8 and 10 then of post #198
    Ashley

    Toyota Hilux Dakar 3.0 D4D D/C 4x4 (2013)
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  11. #211
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    Oom Bertie baie dankie vir die insette.


    The unit is small enough that one could actually bolt it to the side of a battery box. Certainly not designed for this purpose, but it is possible.




    Dimensions : Without inverter 235(W)x235(D)x100(H) mm3

  12. #212
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    Nice Project Ranger, Chris!

    I have a question on the fuse on the main battery. I recently had power installed, but I still need to get the second battery. The installation on my vehicle also goes through a solenoid. The fuse between the positive terminal and the solenoid is 100 amp, but in your installation you used a 50 amp. Is the 100 amp fuse fine, or should I consider replacing the fuse with a lower amp rating?
    Jurgen
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    Then: 2012 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon 3.6 V6
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  13. #213
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    At that rating it is much of a muchness .... the only reason these fuses should blow is due to a fault, and then it would blow either the 50 or 100A in an instant. (yes, in theory one could draw 60 or 70 A and the wire could heat up.... but that WONT be hapening with one fridge)


    In fact most stores only stock the 100A National Luna fuse and holder. Not that easy to get hold of the 50A fuse.

  14. #214
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    Quote Originally Posted by ChrisF View Post
    At that rating it is much of a muchness .... the only reason these fuses should blow is due to a fault, and then it would blow either the 50 or 100A in an instant. (yes, in theory one could draw 60 or 70 A and the wire could heat up.... but that WONT be hapening with one fridge)


    In fact most stores only stock the 100A National Luna fuse and holder. Not that easy to get hold of the 50A fuse.
    Exactly.

    Cable fuses are there to protect against catastrophic failure of a cable and the possibility of fire.

    Equipment fuses are there to protect equipment or protect the supply from equipment failure.

    VERY different requirements and applications.
    Cheers

    ZS5KAD
    3 V8's
    NA TwinTurbo SuperCharger
    A V6 and an inline 4

    The frogs are starting to notice that the water is getting warm but it is already too hot to do anything about it.....

  15. #215
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    You mention that the compressor is connected to the second battery. Would it not make more sense to connect it to the main battery and let the engine idle when using the compressor? At least there will be enough in the second battery to run the fridge and lights.

  16. #216
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chukkie View Post
    You mention that the compressor is connected to the second battery. Would it not make more sense to connect it to the main battery and let the engine idle when using the compressor? At least there will be enough in the second battery to run the fridge and lights.
    Paul (Ore) wanted the compressor to be build in permanently. This placement was just the most practical for his requirements.

    Connecting directly to the second battery ensured the shortest cables.

    Most of us only re-inflate just before the return trip - thus there will be more than enough time to back the amps the compressor used.


    BUT, you are correct - it wont be a good idea to re-inflate four large tires (which he does not have) in camp, with limited time to re-charge, and then to park off for a few days.



    all that said .... you have made me think about this again .... primary battery connection of the compressor may just have merit for most people
    Last edited by Elders; 2014/12/29 at 06:17 PM.

  17. #217
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    Where can i get a fuse distribution block like the one in post #9 ?

  18. #218
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    Mxduro, try auto-part shops like Midas or Autozone.
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  19. #219
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  20. #220
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    Quote Originally Posted by AndyT View Post
    Those i can get everywhere but i need 1 that gets + main supply and the fuses are already connected to that + supply. See pic.
    Attached Images Attached Images  

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