How to fit switched 12v power to your Ranger T6





Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 27
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    johannesburg
    Age
    30
    Posts
    32
    Thanked: 0

    Default How to fit switched 12v power to your Ranger T6

    Hi Guys.
    I struggled with this so I thought i would do a post to explain how to do it.
    Unfortunatelly I did not take any pictures, but its not difficult.

    THe T6 Ranger has 3 12v sockets in the cabin, however they are all permanently on, which is a problem if you want to have a GPS or in my case a dash mounted CAM (and a laser *detector*).

    I had to bring some wires from the front of the car, and the easiest place was on the passenger side as there is a large grommet there (for my sensors in front).

    I thought the easiest place to get power from would be from the interior fuse box, which is on the drivers side behind the small storage tray.

    The cubby and the driver side come out easily by simply reaching for the clips on their side from the inside.

    On the fuse box, from my results, there are only 2 fuses which have no power when ign is off and power when it is on.

    The fuse is a 7.5A (and the one bellow it if i remember correctly) and its on the rightmost side of the fusebox. It is described on the manual as the reverse cam, dash blah blah fuse.

    Now in my case, the accesories which I am using draw very little current, so i did not use a relay however it would probably not be a bad idea to do so (will explain how to at the end of the post).

    You can get a little device called "tap a fuse" or a fuse splitter. What they basically is the following: They look like a fuse that goes where the fuse would go. It the raises out a bit, and has a place for a fuse (where you would put the original fuse). It then has another spot on it for a different fuse (or not, depends if its a fused model or not, you could just add a inline fuse) and a wire that comes out (would be a hot 12v wire).

    Well I couldnt find such nifty devices here in SA (anybody knows where can i get one?) so I just build my on version.

    I got a 7.5 mini blade fuse, carefully cut some of the insulation off the top of it (the plastic). I then soldered 1 side of a miniblade fuse holder onto it.
    the othe side of the fuse holder I ran to the passager side of the cabin. THis is my 12v switched wire.

    For ground, you can get it from anywhere. I foud a nice bolt right by the fuse box which I attached it to.


    Now if you are gonna draw heavy power from it, I would suggest you use a relay.
    This would easily be accomplished by taking that "12v switched" and attaching to 1 side of the coil of the relay. The other side of the coil would go to ground.

    You would then connect a permanently on 12v source (tap into you cigaret lights for 10A or less shared or straight to the battery for high current) to the "Common" pin of the relay.

    The NO (normally open) pin of the relay would then go to your device. Also, if you had something that you wanted to come on everytime you switched your car off (which i wouldnt really recommend), you could wire it to the NC (normally closed) pin of the relay. (this would switch off automatically when you run your car).


    Hope this helps whoever needs!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Pretoria
    Age
    36
    Posts
    355
    Thanked: 6

    Default

    Nice to Know Thanx!!!
    2018 Ford Ranger 2.2 Double Cab XLT 4x2 A/T

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Durban
    Age
    45
    Posts
    2,407
    Thanked: 87

    Default

    Front passenger footwell, take the kick cover off on the bottom left, there's a 20A yellow cable that's aux. ignition power. Use something like a Hellerman quick splice connector (no wire cutting) to tap off that.
    I'm powering my dash cam and before I got a built in GPS, my Garmin used to power off that.
    Current: 2018 Ford Ranger 3.2L XLT AT D/C 4x4 (since: 24/04/2018 )
    Previous: 2015 Ford Ranger 3.2L XLT M/T D/C 4x4 (31/08/2016-24/04/2018 )
    Previous: 2013 Ford Ranger 3.2L XLT M/T D/C 4x4 (05/01/2013-31/08/2016)
    Previous: 2010 Nissan Navara 2.5D LE M/T D/C 4x2 (Sold: 30/10/2012)

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    johannesburg
    Age
    30
    Posts
    32
    Thanked: 0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Prodigal View Post
    Front passenger footwell, take the kick cover off on the bottom left, there's a 20A yellow cable that's aux. ignition power. Use something like a Hellerman quick splice connector (no wire cutting) to tap off that.
    I'm powering my dash cam and before I got a built in GPS, my Garmin used to power off that.
    Very good to know!!!!! Easier I suppose haha

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Durban
    Age
    45
    Posts
    2,407
    Thanked: 87

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Prodigal View Post
    Front passenger footwell, take the kick cover off on the bottom left, there's a 20A yellow cable that's aux. ignition power. Use something like a Hellerman quick splice connector (no wire cutting) to tap off that.
    I'm powering my dash cam and before I got a built in GPS, my Garmin used to power off that.
    Knew I had a picture somewhere.
    That blue connector is the no-cut splice connector, splicing into the yellow, the white cable going up is my new 12v ignition power cable which I fused and then distributed as needed.
    I grounded my new distribution from the factory ground lug on the left.

    Current: 2018 Ford Ranger 3.2L XLT AT D/C 4x4 (since: 24/04/2018 )
    Previous: 2015 Ford Ranger 3.2L XLT M/T D/C 4x4 (31/08/2016-24/04/2018 )
    Previous: 2013 Ford Ranger 3.2L XLT M/T D/C 4x4 (05/01/2013-31/08/2016)
    Previous: 2010 Nissan Navara 2.5D LE M/T D/C 4x2 (Sold: 30/10/2012)

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Witbank
    Age
    58
    Posts
    2,045
    Thanked: 9

    Default Great invention



    I just love these connectors (the blue one), it makes it so easy to tap into anything and you get them in different sizes too.

    I've actually used two of them this afternoon when I installed extra reverse lights on both my vehicles (next to the towbar at the rear for hooking at night).

    Great invention
    "If you can park your car and NOT turn around to look at it as you walk away, you haven't bought the right car"

    Fancy Nancy - 2009 Pajero 3.8 Liter 24 Valve V6 SOHC MIVEC ECI- Multi Engine 6G75 with 184Kw & 329 Nm.
    Topless Tersia - 96 J-Top SWB 3.0 V6 Pajero. Restoration 99% completed.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Stormberg
    Posts
    125
    Thanked: 24

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Prodigal View Post
    Front passenger footwell, take the kick cover off on the bottom left, there's a 20A yellow cable that's aux. ignition power. Use something like a Hellerman quick splice connector (no wire cutting) to tap off that.
    I'm powering my dash cam and before I got a built in GPS, my Garmin used to power off that.

    Prodigal, did you add a 12v socket to plug your dash cam into or did you wire it directly? If you did, where did you mount it? I am thinking about adding a switched socket into the top of the dash so I can plug in my gps with no cables hanging down past the radio etc.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Durban
    Age
    45
    Posts
    2,407
    Thanked: 87

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Ranger.RSA View Post
    Prodigal, did you add a 12v socket to plug your dash cam into or did you wire it directly? If you did, where did you mount it? I am thinking about adding a switched socket into the top of the dash so I can plug in my gps with no cables hanging down past the radio etc.
    I added a 12v socket but left it hidden under the dash, not mounted to the dash itself. It's actually tucked into the drivers kick panel on the right hand side.
    Current: 2018 Ford Ranger 3.2L XLT AT D/C 4x4 (since: 24/04/2018 )
    Previous: 2015 Ford Ranger 3.2L XLT M/T D/C 4x4 (31/08/2016-24/04/2018 )
    Previous: 2013 Ford Ranger 3.2L XLT M/T D/C 4x4 (05/01/2013-31/08/2016)
    Previous: 2010 Nissan Navara 2.5D LE M/T D/C 4x2 (Sold: 30/10/2012)

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Stormberg
    Posts
    125
    Thanked: 24

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Prodigal View Post
    I added a 12v socket but left it hidden under the dash, not mounted to the dash itself. It's actually tucked into the drivers kick panel on the right hand side.
    Thanks!

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Simonstown
    Age
    55
    Posts
    153
    Thanked: 1

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Mitsu Bushy View Post


    I just love these connectors (the blue one), it makes it so easy to tap into anything and you get them in different sizes too.

    I've actually used two of them this afternoon when I installed extra reverse lights on both my vehicles (next to the towbar at the rear for hooking at night).

    Great invention
    I also love these connections,being an auto electrician they have given me plenty of work because they are very prone to corrosion and in time they lose the tension on the connection and cause the plastic to melt rather solder and shrink sleeve then I won't make money from you

  11. #11
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Durban
    Age
    45
    Posts
    2,407
    Thanked: 87

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Deep South View Post
    I also love these connections,being an auto electrician they have given me plenty of work because they are very prone to corrosion and in time they lose the tension on the connection and cause the plastic to melt rather solder and shrink sleeve then I won't make money from you
    I am sure you have more experience than me, being in the trade and all, but I've not had any problems thus far. I usually squeeze the metal lug a little to make for a tighter splice and you'll notice in the picture above that the connector has some anti corrosion jungle juice sticking out by the yellow cable. On a side note, I only leave interior located connectors bare like this one, any used in the engine comp. or exterior of vehicle are well insulated as well.
    Current: 2018 Ford Ranger 3.2L XLT AT D/C 4x4 (since: 24/04/2018 )
    Previous: 2015 Ford Ranger 3.2L XLT M/T D/C 4x4 (31/08/2016-24/04/2018 )
    Previous: 2013 Ford Ranger 3.2L XLT M/T D/C 4x4 (05/01/2013-31/08/2016)
    Previous: 2010 Nissan Navara 2.5D LE M/T D/C 4x2 (Sold: 30/10/2012)

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Centurion
    Age
    42
    Posts
    145
    Thanked: 0

    Default

    Hi, i guess this will also be suitable to power my tyre pressure monitoring system?
    2013 Ford Ranger 3.2 DID 4x4 Auto
    Sprite Tourer SP (modified)

    Prior
    2009 Mitsubishi Triton 3.2 DID and a few mods.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    johannesburg
    Age
    30
    Posts
    32
    Thanked: 0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Rabobi82 View Post
    Hi, i guess this will also be suitable to power my tyre pressure monitoring system?
    I am sure it will be. As always I would suggest a inline fuse. 5A should be more then enough

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Location
    Richards Bay
    Age
    60
    Posts
    6
    Thanked: 0

    Default Switched 12V to left front aux socket - 2013 XLT 3.2 4x4 Auto

    Hi Guys - here's my shot at this. (for those that also do not like permanent mods) This should leave your r/f and rear aux sockets unchanged and is 100% reversible.
    Take note to which side of the fuses the jumper wire is soldered.
    1 - Popped fuse. (to cut permanent 12V to l/f aux socket)
    2 - Fuse with amp rating of you choice to protect l/f aux circuit. (5A is more than you will need for D/cam-GPS)
    A - Fuse # 24 - permanent 12V supply to l/f aux socket only.
    B - Fuse # 34 - switched 12V (only supply terminal in slot) - unused on my vehicle.

    I suppose you can do this individually for r/f aux (fuse 20) and rear aux (fuse 31) as well but that I havenít test yet. My advice is to mod only one socket most suitable for your GPS-d/cam with the lowest amperage fuse needed. (in my case it is the left front one)
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Fused jumper.jpg 
Views:	1621 
Size:	62.5 KB 
ID:	342335   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Jumper installed.jpg 
Views:	11444 
Size:	60.9 KB 
ID:	342336  

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Brackenfell
    Age
    44
    Posts
    355
    Thanked: 2

    Default

    Do you maybe know which fuses I can do this mod to, to give me switched power to the Aux 12v socket in the wildtrak load bin ?

    I killed my battery this morning with a fridge because the ranger needs more that 10.5V that's the fridge cutoff. I have a second battery in the back so would rather have it switched.

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Location
    Richards Bay
    Age
    60
    Posts
    6
    Thanked: 0

    Default

    Pull # 46 and check your bin aux to see if it’s the correct fuse.
    Be very careful with higher amperage loads normally required for accessories in the back. If you’re not sure then rather use # 34 only to activate a relay to bridge the supply and load sides of # 46 using a popped fuse. To lower the chances of hot/bad contacts use the best quality fuse you can get. (no aluminium ching-chong stuff – you will regret it) Make sure to use a fused relay or inline fuse with the lowest amperage possible and never ever exceed the prescribed amperage.
    Note – This mod has not been tested by me yet so you do this at your own risk – capiche? 

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    Pretoria
    Age
    53
    Posts
    568
    Thanked: 42

    Default

    Why not build an automatic battery disconnect circuit?

    I checked, with the engine running, the battery voltage (12V socket) is always >14VDC. Once the engine is switched off, it drops to nominal battery voltage withing about 2 minutes (around 12.5VDC).

    So ... build a simple circuit which plugs into the existing 12V socket and one plugs the load into the circuit. The circuit turns the load on when the voltage is above 14V and off when below 12V.

    This way it works fully automatically, is a plug in unit which does not require fiddling with fuses or tap into existing wiring (warranty?) and can be removed if not required

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Lanseria
    Age
    55
    Posts
    171
    Thanked: 28

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Ranger.RSA View Post
    Prodigal, did you add a 12v socket to plug your dash cam into or did you wire it directly? If you did, where did you mount it? I am thinking about adding a switched socket into the top of the dash so I can plug in my gps with no cables hanging down past the radio etc.
    I disconnected the plug from the cable, ran the cable through the air vent in front of the windscreen, re-attached the plug and Bob's your uncle!

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Location
    Richards Bay
    Age
    60
    Posts
    6
    Thanked: 0

    Default

    Capone ... post was about an easy way to change the existing permanent 12V aux sockets to switched 12V sockets - low amperage application.
    Last edited by Piet Smith; 2015/04/08 at 05:10 PM.

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    Pretoria
    Age
    53
    Posts
    568
    Thanked: 42

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Piet Smith View Post
    Capone ... post was about an easy way to change the existing permanent 12V aux sockets to switched 12V sockets - low amperage application.
    Exactly, can't agree more - such a circuit is very simple .. any Amperage, mA to whatever the existing fuse will allow - and it will not void the warranty. Plug it into the socket and plug the load in - not even necessary to try and find the fuses or remember to change this back to standard before a service etc..

Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. Ford & Mazda 2008 ford ranger 2.5 4x4 no power
    By SUZITIAAN in forum Ford & Mazda
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 2013/12/03, 08:00 PM
  2. 12v Power Outlet in load bin
    By Makmoer in forum Volkswagen
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 2012/11/02, 08:17 AM
  3. New Ranger
    By Wise one in forum Ford & Mazda
    Replies: 374
    Last Post: 2012/03/09, 12:53 PM
  4. Raptor spotted!
    By JasonRSA in forum Ford & Mazda
    Replies: 40
    Last Post: 2011/08/16, 07:29 PM
  5. Terracan mods - power points for rear seats
    By offroad junky in forum Hyundai
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 2011/01/23, 07:52 PM

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •