The Lake St Lucia estuary is once again open after being closed off for five years during one of the most severe droughts to hit the area in living history. In March 2007 huge swells of nearly four meters pounded the sandbank separating the estuary from the sea, eventually, causing the mouth to breach. Thousands of liters of salt water rushed into the mouth and pushed high up into the estuary.
This was the result of the highest spring tides in 20 years and unusually rough seas stirred up by Cyclone Gamede lashing south–west Madagascar and sweeping across the Indian Ocean.
Amazingly, it was just two weeks later that yet another phenomenon occurred, a closed low-pressure system that generated strong winds and intense rainfall over a large stretch of the KZN Coastline.
The sea conditions were even more turbulent with waves as high as twelve meters being measured in the Zululand/Maputaland area.
For Lake St Lucia this meant another influx of salt water, pushed in by an angry sea that tossed huge pipes around like plastic toys.
The spectacle created by all this soon had everyone rushing to the area to take it all in.
The flooding of water into the estuary mouth that virtually covered the whole beach, now, three months later, looks like this and the mouth, far from being wide open, looks as if it is closing up again.
Looking out over Cattalina Bay, part of the main lake system, I’m also amazed at how less than two years ago this whole area was dried up as far as the eye could see, there wasn’t a drop of water anywhere.
Richard Crompton
Now I have just seen a pod of hippos rise and fall 200 meters offshore and you would think that in fact perhaps the drought has broken in here, and yet people are not sure. There have been good rains, but I’ve tasted this water and it’s very saline.
The amount of salt that has come in is not of immediate concern to the authorities, because the recent heavy rains have helped to neutralize the water so that its salinity is no higher than that of the sea.
In fact, says Estuarine Ecologist, Ricky Taylor, the whole system is humming at the moment: the inflow of seawater has brought with it crabs and prawns and the crocodiles have had a glut of marine fish to feed on. Even the reed beds, which have been destroyed by the saline water, are providing a food source for a whole new system of saline species.
Dr Ricky Taylor – Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife
This is exactly what an estuarine needs. It needs break down of vegetation all the time, and it gets broken down again by bacteria which is the bottom of the food chain. What we’ve got here is very healthy in the system, but the healthiness only comes when the vegetation is replaced by other stuff that comes in with a higher salinity. If this died now and was killed and there was no other Estuarine Vegetation to replace this, then you would start getting erosion on the banks.
Richard Crompton
What replaces it in time?
Dr Ricky Taylor
I think you will get mangroves here in time. If you look near the heron, you can see a little green seedling of mangrove that’s starting to grow there.
On the shores of the lake the grass, which had spread into the lake bed during the drought, is also now dying because of the high salinity, and, like the reed beds, becoming the source of a whole new food chain for salt water organisms.
Dr Ricky Taylor
Richard, this is the sort of thing I was telling you about where in the shallow water you get some of the salt water coming in and it starts killing some of the vegetation, you can see here and this is what forms the beginning of a food chain in the rotting vegetation, because on this vegetation you start getting a growth of bacteria and that breaks down the cellulose and the various compounds of the vegetation is then the food for other organisms.
While a whole new saline food chain is establishing itself, the fresh water species are clinging to life in the fresh water seepage from the adjacent dunes which have been providing a lifeline for both crocodiles and hippos during the drought.
From being totally exposed when the lake dried up, crocodiles are now completely immersed in the salt water and not easily seen at the moment. Although crocodiles can stay in salt water, they need fresh water to drink because they become dehydrated very quickly hippos, on the other hand don’t become dehydrated quite so quickly because their skins are thicker, so they can spend long periods wallowing in saline water. But, they too, like crocs, need fresh water to drink which they get from the little fresh water rivulets and the dune seepage on the periphery of the lake.
The fresh water seepage is not only sustaining larger animals, but also a myriad smaller creatures such as this tadpole and a whole array of fresh water plants, some of them quite fascinating.
Dr Ricky Taylor
It is an insectivorous plant, it catches insects. You get them here, especially in these seepage areas where you get this fresh water coming out of the dunes. It is very low in nitrogen and the plant needs to supplement its nitrogen so it has adapted things to be able to catch insects. If you look at it, it has something like glue and the insects sticks on that. So the insect land on this and it gets all snarled up in this and then slowly the leave will fold and engulf the insect and digest it.
All this freshwater seepage means you have to watch where you are walking!
Richard Crompton
Am I overweight?
Dr Ricky Taylor
It is water seepage, water seeping through the sand grains here.
Dr Ricky Taylor
Here is another of these carnivorous plants growing in the seepage here, if you look, these are like little swimming insects or stations in the water. Each one of these dark bits are actually modified leaves, are the bits that catch the swimming crustacean, they are little pots that the crustacean come into, it has a spring-loaded lid. As it touches it, it triggers it off, it expands, sucking in the water and as it sucks in the water it sucks in that little crustacean. Once it is in the pot it gets digested by the plant.
Although the system may be humming right now, Ricky warns that unless the drought breaks, all these plants will die out and the crocodiles and hippos will once again be in serious trouble.
This is the sixth year of a ten year drought cycle and with each year that the drought continues the less fresh water there will be flowing from the dunes and the saltier the remaining water will become. Because of this, if the mouth closes up again, it will not be manually opened, he says.
Dr Ricky Taylor
We do have this big fear that if the drought carries on for another few years that the lake salinity will increase, the amount of salt coming in from the sea will built up and we could get into a system that is too saline for a lot of the life. I think the perception is that when we see water we see vegetation, we see fish jumping inside we think everything is very nice and working well but the drought is still very severe here at Lake St Lucia.
The fresh water from the five rivers feeding into the estuarine system is diminishing each year because of human pressure and this makes matters worse. In fact it is estimated that since the early 50’s the whole wetland area has lost on average about 70% of the fresh water that once flowed into it, 50% of which came from the Imfolozi which was manually closed off from Lake St Lucia in 1952 because it was bringing far too much sediment in from adjoining sugar cane plantations.
When the Imfolozi River flowed into the Lake St Lucia mouth, it looked more like a bay, today it has dwindled down to this sorry state, and it is not surprising it keeps closing up.
Richard Crompton
It is quite a different perspective of the mouth from here and you can, perhaps you can see where you are saying it is more likely to close-up.
Dr Ricky Taylor
It could quite easily close up. Prior to the 1950s this whole sandbank wasn’t here. In the past before the 1050s this was open water to the big dunes. This is the area known as the St Lucia Bay. It was the old St Lucia Bay which the ships used to come into in 1800s.
Richard Crompton
And it is being caused by what?
Dr Ricky Taylor
It is where the Imfolozi and the St Lucia join, they link up in one place. They then in the past, had a single mouth that went out here.
Ricky explains that the Imfolozi swampland, which is now covered in sugar plantations, used to act as a valuable filter, sifting out unwanted sediment so that only valuable fresh water reached the river and the lake. There is only one solution to the problem he says.
Dr Ricky Taylor
We have to buy out some of the farms and rehabilitate those farms into a sediment filter.
Richard Crompton
And if we don’t do that Ricky, would it mean that the system would gradually deteriorate?
Dr Ricky Taylor
Yes, I think what is happening is that we get a severe drought maybe every ten years. In St Lucia, every time we get one of those droughts the system deteriorates a lot. In between the droughts there isn’t enough time for the system to recover fully. So, slowly drought after drought the St Lucia system deteriorates to a lower and lower system.
Richard Crompton
Can that happen to a World Heritage Site?
Dr Ricky Taylor
It is happening.
What is also happening is that local communities are planting sugar cane right inside the World Heritage Site this time in the Mhkuze flood plains, another vital filtration system feeding fresh water into the lake from the Mkhuze River.
As the main river flowing into Lake St Lucia now that the Imfolozi River has been canalized, this is another nail in the coffin for a wetland system that is gradually choking up.
Richard Crompton
The Lake St Lucia system cannot survive on salt water alone, but this is the gloomy scenario facing the authority here. Since the 1950’s it has been estimated that two thirds of the water that used to flow into it and if you look at the international debate, authorities are actually starting to resuscitate, rehabilitate wetlands. They are starting to appreciate how important wetlands are. This is not just a wetland it is a World Heritage Site and yet it is dying and we are not really doing much about it. Every time we come back to this issue the same question is brought up; how are we going to take the Imfolozi river, which historically was the greater source of fresh water, how are we going to resuscitate that to allow it to perform its filtration and feeding of fresh water into the system? Something has to be done to save this World Heritage Site.
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