Tripreport: Zimbabwe - Botswana 17-31 August 2013





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  1. #1
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    Default Tripreport: Zimbabwe - Botswana 17-31 August 2013

    Taking off
    Our journey commenced from Pretoria on the morning of 17 August 2013 just before sunrise. It was just the two of us travelling with a Nissan Navara and an Echo4 Trailer. After heading north for a while, we left the N1 at the Mokopane offramp and crossed the Botswana border through Grobler’s Bridge/ Martinsdrift. We proceeded to Woodlands Stopover close to Francistown where we spent our first night. The next morning we continued, crossed the Zimbabwean border at Plumtree hence avoiding Beitbridge. We were surprised that we were not asked for the Police clearance certificate that we have spend considerable effort in obtaining.


    In Bulawayo we made a quick stop at Wayne’s Butchery to stock up our meat supplies for the next couple of days. We were greatly appreciate Wayne’s willingness to open his shop for us – as it was on a Sunday – and were impressed by the excellent quality of his products. From here we were off to our first destination, namely the Matobo National Park (Matopos).

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    Matobo National Park (Rhodes Matopos National Park) (18-19 August)
    Nestled between the Maleme Dam on the one side and huge granite rocks on the other, there were more than enough camping space to choose from. After the few day visitors have left we had the Maleme Campsite to ourselves - with the exception of a few baboons, a crow and an inquisitive horse. We enjoyed the tranquility and the sound of the fish eagle surrounding us while preparing supper and settling in for the night. Ablutions were clean and adequate – even hot water and electricity after a friendly electrician on a motorbike came to sort out a minor problem. Showers and toilets are located in separate buildings.

    It was unexpectedly chilly when we visited the historical graves of Cecil John Rhodes, Leander Starr Jameson, Allan Wilson and various other white settler leaders on the Matopo Hills the next morning. The Matobo Hills is a designated Unesco World Heritage Site. After a short steep uphill walk we were able to enjoy a stunning 360 degree view of the area. On returning to the parking area, two crows were excitedly admiring themselves in the side mirrors of Henry’s Navara, in the process scratching the doors. This incident encouraged us to remember to tuck the windows away whenever the vehicle was left unattended. We spend the rest of the day visiting the Pomongwe Cave and museum and exploring the opposite side of the Maleme Dam from our campsite.
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    Last edited by Ansiev; 2013/10/06 at 02:41 PM. Reason: Add photos

  2. #2
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    Hwange National Park (20-22 August)
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    After two peaceful nights in the Matopos we left on the morning of the 20th August for our next destination, namely Hwange National Park (previously Wankie Game Reserve). Hwange National Park is the largest game reserve in Zimbabwe. It is situated in the west between Bulawayo and Victoria Falls. While passing through Bulawayo we made another brief stop at Wayne’s and the supermarket to top up our fresh supplies before proceeding to Hwange. We arrived early afternoon and were welcomed by some baboons and friendly staff. Our campsite was located in the Main Camp. Having settled in, we were eager to start exploring the area. As the gates of the camp are closing at 18:00 we were not able to travel too far. We therefore stopped at the Nyamandhlovu Pan and watched the elephants and birdlife with great interest from the platform. We were intrigued by the playful elephant youngsters. One even had the courage to challenge the crock resting half way out of the water, but quickly backed off when snatched at. We could have stayed for several hours more indulging into this scenery, but had to return before getting locked out of the camp for the night. Early the next morning we were back enjoying our morning coffee at the hide before moving on for more game viewing. We were lucky to see a lioness returning to the site of their kill the day before to rescue their meal from the vultures and hyenas. We also saw zebra, giraffe, kudu, ostrich and numerous types of birds.

    At times we got frustrated with the partly tarred road and noisy people at the hides. Although the ablution facilities are old, the campsite attendant was doing his best to keep it perfectly clean – even polishing the red cement floor on a daily basis and placing wild flowers in empty cans for a very personal touch. As usual the baboons were always waiting from a distance for a chance to invade campsites for snacks. Every evening we were honoured by a visit from a badger that was more interested in our rubbish bin than in us. During the night we could hear the far off howling of the jackal and hyena during the night but during the day sounds of music and domestic animals such as dogs and chickens coming from the nearby village were more prominent, although not disturbing.

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    Victoria Falls (23-25 August)
    After our stay at Hwange we were off to our next destination and highlight of our trip, namely Victoria Falls where we arrived shortly after lunchtime. Immediately after our campsite was erected, we started exploring. At the Wild Horizon’s office we booked a relaxing Sundowners’ Cruise on the Zambezi River for later that very same afternoon and a Flight of Angels over the Vic Falls for the next morning first thing. We were more excited than two kids on Christmas Eve as for several months we were looking forward to the helicopter flight. It turned out to exceed our expectations by far and was money well spent indeed! For the rest of our stay we indulged into the beauty of the majestic fall and explored the rest of Vic Falls including the Historic Bridge. We also drove to the outskirts of the village and discovered the Zambezi National Park to be a destination for future consideration. The 20th United Nations World Tourist Organisation (UNWTO) General Assembly took place in Vic Falls and Livingstone from the 24th until the 29th August 2013 and was responsible for a distinctive vibe while we were there. This was a visit never to forget.



    General impressions of Zimbabwe
    We were pleasantly surprised with the Zimbabwean citizens. Our impressions were those of friendly, hard-working people who are taking pride in their country. The Police at the checkpoints never gave us any hassles with regard to bribes, etc. Once we’ve produced our permits we were waved off with wishes for a pleasant trip. We never experienced the slightest sign of arrogance. Food supplies and fuel were freely available, however credit card facilities were limited and we had to pay cash most of the time. Our brand new $1 bills were very much sought after.
    With a few exceptions the roads are in a fairly good condition. We passed several toll gates - all @ $1.00 each. Fortunately we took along a good supply of these bills. Election posters promoting Mr Robert Mugabe most of the time and slightly less Mr Morgan Tsvangirai were still generously displayed all over on trees along the road.
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    Last edited by Ansiev; 2013/10/08 at 01:24 PM.

  3. #3
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    Chobe National Park (26-29 August)
    The last, but not least destination of our trip was Chobe National Park. To get there from Vic Falls we had to cross the Botswana Border once again – this time at Kazungula. We arrived early afternoon and saw lots of game as we approached Ihaha campsite where we were booked for our stay. On our way to Ihaha we had to make a stop to deflate the tyres as the sand got quite deep in place along the road. While I was suppose to watch out for lions, I instead took advantage of this opportunity to photograph a large number of hippos that were in the Chobe River.

    We thought ourselves lucky to get a spot, in the shade of a large tree with a splendid view of the birdlife of the Chobe River. Every now and then some Impala were also passing by. However, we were not so please for too long, because as dusk fall, we became aware of a large number of baboons and a few monkeys starting to settle in for the night in “our” tree. Their arrogance did not impress us at all. They were not afraid of trying to steal our food from right underneath our noses. They were quite noisy before they finally went to sleep and we had to perform an emergency move of our trailer, with the tent opened on top, to get out of the way of their droppings! Every evening we made a large fire and patrolled our site with a “ketty” and Chobe ammunition (stones) resulting in the baboons in “our” tree moving gradually night by night to other campsites where it was less disturbing for them. On the last night we were finally left with only a few diehards that managed an ascent into “our” tree.

    The baboons, a bat and spider in the toilet and lack of hot water in the showers added to adventurousness of our stay in Chobe. We have never seen so many elephants together and we could watch the sunset literally from our doorstep every evening.

    Furthermore we saw plenty buffalo, zebra, giraffe, impala, wildebeest and birds to die for. The fish eagles were waiting patiently for me to practice my developing photographic skills. We were especially intrigued by an elephant mom guiding her little one through the river (see pictures below). Unfortunately the lion kept dodging us, but there will always be a next time!

    Returning home (30-31 August)
    On the morning of the 30th August we could hardly believe that the time for our holiday has run out so quickly. By now we were skilled enough to strike our camp down in 20 minutes and were ready to take the long road back to Gauteng. After passing through the main gate we stopped one last time to inflate the tires after leaving the sandy roads of Chobe behind. After several hours we reached our halfway stop where we spend another night at Woodlands Stopover – where we made a booking during our last stay. This time we secured a riverside room, equipped with a kitchenette and en suite bathroom - which we did not have in the chalet where we stayed during our previous sleep over. The luxury of a hot clean shower and bed was indeed awesome! Early the next morning we continued our journey uneventful through the border and then heading straight to Pretoria. We arrived safely during the afternoon and after an unforgettable adventure.
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    Last edited by Ansiev; 2013/10/06 at 07:42 PM.

  4. #4
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    Thanks for reporting back. I must say I find the reports of people being given a tough time from officials in Zim to be completely contrary to our experiences as well.
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    Glad you enjoyed your trip in Zim !

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    Thanks a lot !

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    Nice pictures and verry pleasant to read.
    Thank you!

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    Watch this space for more pics. Uploading is taking forever due to slow internet

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    Thx for sharing. Nice to hear good reports on Zim.

    Can you elaborate on the domestic disturbances at Hwange? I'd hate to spend cash going only to be disturbed by the local domestic animals.

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    Great report and a great adventure with awesome memories thanks

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    [QUOTE=geraas;1884232]Thx for sharing. Nice to hear good reports on Zim.

    Can you elaborate on the domestic disturbances at Hwange? I'd hate to spend cash going only to be disturbed by the local domestic

    Our campsite was in the Main Camp and in the closest corner to the living area of the local staff. During the day time we could hear remote sounds of chickens and dogs, but it was in now way disturbing and quiet during the night.

  12. #12
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    Thanks for a lovely report and great pictures.

    Was slightly confused by your reference to visiting Masuma Dam despite not being able "to travel too far" before the gate closed - Masuma is 93 km from Shumba - see for example this map on wikipedia or this scan of the game count map or (best) this of the 1:1000,000.

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    Thanks. Will check out the map.

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    Quote Originally Posted by babakathy View Post
    Was slightly confused by your reference to visiting Masuma Dam despite not being able "to travel too far" before the gate closed - Masuma is 93 km from Shumba - see for example this map on wikipedia or this scan of the game count map or (best) this of the 1:1000,000.
    Now you've slightly confused me - you've probably ment to say Masuma is 93km from Main camp, not from Shumba, right?
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    yes from MC, sorry

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    Quote Originally Posted by babakathy View Post
    Thanks for a lovely report and great pictures.

    Was slightly confused by your reference to visiting Masuma Dam despite not being able "to travel too far" before the gate closed - Masuma is 93 km from Shumba - see for example this map on wikipedia or this scan of the game count map or (best) this of the 1:1000,000.
    Thanks for the maps. Report corrected accordingly.

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    So glad to hear good reports about Zim. Maybe because we live here and know the conditions we are accustomed to travel and visiting many places here.

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