Renault Duster

[PhireSide]

You make a good point there BD, regarding brights that can maar gooi some scattered light, as chances are it’s for driving along empty roads anyway. I also mistyped and meant W21/5W instead of P21/5W - I found that the bulb is also called a 580 bulb, or type 7443. 7440 is also compatible, but is a single filament, so it isn’t 100% correct as only one circuit will illuminate in that case.

I actually discovered that my car has a colourful history as it is originally an ex-Windhoek car, but also spent some time at an embassy in East London, which would explain the super dark tint on the windows and the signs that there were flashing lights fitted to the front bumper (screw holes are visible on the grille).

Anyway, the reason I was faffing with the bumper is that I am hunting down an odd rattle in the front that I can’t seem to find. I thought at first it was the bonnet, but I added some rubber floor protectors to the rubber standoffs on the body and the contact there is good and the bonnet doesn’t jostle about while driving.

I did a visual inspection of the steering knuckles and associated hardware - shocks (Monroe, in this case), drop links, sway bar, ball joints, CV’s, et cetera. Is there any other common rattle area I can check? It sounds worst when driving over rough tar/asphalt while turning at low speeds. Almost like a rumble which I can slightly feel through the pedals. I am hoping it could be something small, like shock tower bearings. The shocks themselves look quite new - maybe with 20k on them, give or take.

Other than that, I am really enjoying driving it and looking forward to taking it off the beaten path in due course.

[Ian.McM]

You make a good point there BD, regarding brights that can maar gooi some scattered light, as chances are it’s for driving along empty roads anyway. I also mistyped and meant W21/5W instead of P21/5W - I found that the bulb is also called a 580 bulb, or type 7443. 7440 is also compatible, but is a single filament, so it isn’t 100% correct as only one circuit will illuminate in that case.

I actually discovered that my car has a colourful history as it is originally an ex-Windhoek car, but also spent some time at an embassy in East London, which would explain the super dark tint on the windows and the signs that there were flashing lights fitted to the front bumper (screw holes are visible on the grille).

Anyway, the reason I was faffing with the bumper is that I am hunting down an odd rattle in the front that I can’t seem to find. I thought at first it was the bonnet, but I added some rubber floor protectors to the rubber standoffs on the body and the contact there is good and the bonnet doesn’t jostle about while driving.

I did a visual inspection of the steering knuckles and associated hardware - shocks (Monroe, in this case), drop links, sway bar, ball joints, CV’s, et cetera. Is there any other common rattle area I can check? It sounds worst when driving over rough tar/asphalt while turning at low speeds. Almost like a rumble which I can slightly feel through the pedals. I am hoping it could be something small, like shock tower bearings. The shocks themselves look quite new - maybe with 20k on them, give or take.

Other than that, I am really enjoying driving it and looking forward to taking it off the beaten path in due course.

Once had a weird rattle in my Honda CRV. Sounded like in the glove box or left front door. Eventually found that the windscreen washer water bottle right up front was not securely fixed. It might not be anything mechanical.

[PhireSide]

Hmmm, something about this bonnet catch looks off

[Butch Dassie]

...Anyway, the reason I was faffing with the bumper is that I am hunting down an odd rattle in the front that I can’t seem to find. I thought at first it was the bonnet, but I added some rubber floor protectors to the rubber standoffs on the body and the contact there is good and the bonnet doesn’t jostle about while driving.

I did a visual inspection of the steering knuckles and associated hardware - shocks (Monroe, in this case), drop links, sway bar, ball joints, CV’s, et cetera. Is there any other common rattle area I can check? It sounds worst when driving over rough tar/asphalt while turning at low speeds. Almost like a rumble which I can slightly feel through the pedals. I am hoping it could be something small, like shock tower bearings. The shocks themselves look quite new - maybe with 20k on them, give or take...

Check your bash plate. Mine would loosen the bolts after going over rough roads. That is, until I upgraded their size.

I've added some plastic ties to secure some lines and pipes.

If you are in lock mode (permanent 4WD), it does make a grinding noise when cornering (not a rattle).

Failing that, CV joints?

[PhireSide]

Check your bash plate. Mine would loosen the bolts after going over rough roads. That is, until I upgraded their size.

I've added some plastic ties to secure some lines and pipes.

If you are in lock mode (permanent 4WD), it does make a grinding noise when cornering (not a rattle).

Failing that, CV joints?

the bash plate seems very solid, albeit with some dings and scratches - but all the bolts are tight as can come.

I found that there were some loose fasteners holding the arch liners on, which I fastened again, but it made no difference. There are also these little metal cages over the wishbone where it connects to the chassis; one cage is MIA so I might see if I can find or fabricate another one.

I drive it mainly in 2WD mode, I actually haven’t had to use 4WD lock yet, and also checked the CV’s and they seem solid. Also no rattling of the calipers or anything. I may take it for a shock test sometime as Tyres&More near us do a free one.

I am busy fabricating a sleeve to go over the latch that I posted above. I am not sure why it would be notched like that. Otherwise, I will maybe try shim the lock forward a bit with some washers to see if I can get it to engage on a more solid piece of metal instead.

edit: not quite sure why the iPhone browser is butchering the quote markdown text when I quote you

[PhireSide]

Plan made with the bonnet latch: I wrapped a piece of aquarium pipe around the metal catch, cable tied it and wrapped it in harness tape. The latch also needed to be adjusted further down.

I also doubled up on the rubber stops that sit on the bodywork by adding some more rubber pads on the bonnet itself:

[Butch Dassie]

...I found that there were some loose fasteners holding the arch liners on, which I fastened again, but it made no difference. There are also these little metal cages over the wishbone where it connects to the chassis; one cage is MIA so I might see if I can find or fabricate another one.

I drive it mainly in 2WD mode, I actually haven’t had to use 4WD lock yet, and also checked the CV’s and they seem solid. Also no rattling of the calipers or anything. I may take it for a shock test sometime as Tyres&More near us do a free one.

I am busy fabricating a sleeve to go over the latch that I posted above. I am not sure why it would be notched like that. Otherwise, I will maybe try shim the lock forward a bit with some washers to see if I can get it to engage on a more solid piece of metal instead.

edit: not quite sure why the iPhone browser is butchering the quote markdown text when I quote you

I lost two liners due to those silly clips. Then I heard the motor clatter much better. I replaced the clips and now put some bitumen flashing over them to hold them onto the post.

Oh! My left front brake had a rattle when I first got it. Solution: push anti-rattle clip into the caliper. One of the few things Reno SA did.

That notch does look very strange. It is definitely cut and not worn.

Some people love iPhone...

[edit: removed rubbish about just being a safety catch. There is the remote release and safety catch is manually operated in front of the vehicle.]

[PhireSide]

I lost two liners due to those silly clips. Then I heard the motor clatter much better. I replaced the clips and now put some bitumen flashing over them to hold them onto the post.

Oh! My left front brake had a rattle when I first got it. Solution: push anti-rattle clip into the caliper. One of the few things Reno SA did.

That notch does look very strange. It is definitely cut and not worn. It's just a safety catch to prevent the bonnet from flying up under speed. Thus, it shouldn't be the source of the problem.

Some people love iPhone...

I used to be a big Android fan (had tons of Xiaomi’s as well as some Samsung and Sony smartphones) but recently decided to try the Dark Side out and so far, so good. I don’t tinker with my stuff as often anymore, so as long as it can call, take peechas, and browse the web I am happy

On the topic of arch liners, these on the Duster are paper thin. Both my rear ones have holes punched in them, I surmise from stones being thrown up. When I have some more time, I want to take them off and try reinforce them (maybe with some flashing, or something) to try make them a bit stronger and less flimsy. But, I also detest those clips that they use. What would have been wrong with using some mild steel screws with wide heads to keep everything in place?

I went for a short drive with the family and unfortunately the noise remains. It seems to happen when driving over bumpy surfaces, as we were down at the beachfront and I heard it quite loudly when turning either way as we drove over the paved area near the roadhouse. It is just a bit weird that it happens mostly when turning. I had a similar noise on my old Hyundai which ended up being the drop links that were shot. If I can find these cheaply, I might try replace them.

The only other possible source I could see is that my right side strut dust boot is a bit loose where it slides over the bottom end of the shock, when compared to the left side which is a tight fit. I may try wrapping some harness tape and pressing it on, although I doubt that the boot rattles so loudly that I can hear it above the engine noise.

A good idea to check the caliper clips though, thank you. There are only so many parts that could be the culprit, and I am sure that it will come out eventually.

Before I bought my Duster, I trawled through every page here from start to finish and there is a trove of information on this thread, and BD you seem like a very knowledgeable chap when it comes to these cars. I appreciate the feedback and the advice very much.

[Butch Dassie]

I've only been to Tankwa once, but I noticed the locals' mud guards were in different states of being chewed off. They say they have to replace them completely every two to three years due to the shale shards the tyres throw at them.

I don't think our liners would last that long there.

It still sounds like CV joints to me. If the CV dust boot is loose, it will allow dust inside which will eventually destroy the teeth.

[PhireSide]

I've only been to Tankwa once, but I noticed the locals' mud guards were in different states of being chewed off. They say they have to replace them completely every two to three years due to the shale shards the tyres throw at them.

I don't think our liners would last that long there.

It still sounds like CV joints to me. If the CV dust boot is loose, it will allow dust inside which will eventually destroy the teeth.

I had a chance to check the CV's, and both inner and outers still look pristine. The boots are still intact and no signs of grease on the outsides. I also checked wheel bearings while I was at it, as I had the wheels up in the air. Only issue I saw was what looked like a bit of sweat on the gearbox, so will have that seen to at the next service.

I found that I can emulate the sound and feeling through the steering wheel quite well by going down my driveway at around 5-7kph. We have a paved driveway, but it's these crappy clinker bricks that they have laid out which is quite bumpy overall, and when going down it's almost as if the rattle comes from the steering rack side. I had a look again at the control arm bushes, tie rod ends and ball joints and I couldn't spot anything wrong there. I am going to try to lower tyre pressures a little and see if there is any change.

I can only imagine that shale such as that would destroy most vehicle arch liners and mudguards given enough time. Some roads are absolute torture on cars, but at least we don't have cars that rust away after ten years like some of the northern hemisphere countries where they salt the roads. So in that regard, I reckon we can count our blessings.

[Ian.McM]

Will be interested, if the rattle is eventually traced, to know where it came from!

It might be worth checking whether the drive shaft (such as it may be in a Duster 4×4) has any play which leads to it touching and knocking on some part of the body work as you drive over the clinker bricks? The upper anchor points of seat belts can also rattle.

As I discovered years ago with my Honda, the source of the sound won't necessarily be where it seems to be coming from. It also doesn't have to be a moving part.

[AJBotha]

Morning Gents.
After 5 years of faultless service I am looking at upgrading my Duster to a bigger vehicle. If you are in the market for one give me a call, some basics:
2016 Duster 4x4 1.5 dCi Dynamique, 145 000 km, Eastern Cape, Grey, hoping to get around R140k. I'll try to post a full add in the classifieds.
As a side note, what can I expect to get for it? Groete
Antonie
0605083257

[PhireSide]

Will be interested, if the rattle is eventually traced, to know where it came from!

It might be worth checking whether the drive shaft (such as it may be in a Duster 4×4) has any play which leads to it touching and knocking on some part of the body work as you drive over the clinker bricks? The upper anchor points of seat belts can also rattle.

As I discovered years ago with my Honda, the source of the sound won't necessarily be where it seems to be coming from. It also doesn't have to be a moving part.

I seem to think I should divert my attention to the steering shaft/rack/column for now, but will look when I have a gap again. I do have minor clicking on pullaway from the driveshaft, which I think could be something to look at as well, but I might leave this for the extended warranty to sort out as I have a feeling that differentials/gearboxes is above my paygrade.

I found that the steering column shroud is loose as well, so I will see if there is maybe some anchorage points or clips missing that I can remedy.

When I had my Hyundai, I also had a phantom noise which sounded similar to the noise I am hearing with the Duster, and two tyre shops diagnosed it as the top shock bearing that was causing the issue, while the other one diagnosed it as a worn tie-rod end. The noise ended up being the drop links that were shot. I replaced them with OE units sourced from DAR, and Bob's your auntie - no more noise.

[PhireSide]

I’m happy to report that, much like what Ian reported above, the sound was coming from not quite where I thought it was.

It ended up being a combination of a loose steering column surround and the driver footwell airvent that was loose.

I managed to secure the column surround with some harness tape on the clip near the bottom, and I also turned some around the airvent outlet that was rattling against the crash pad below the column.

Went for a test drive, and happy days - there are much fewer rattles inside the cabin. I do hear faint rubbing between the steering wheel and the column surround now, but I’ll realign them tomorrow when there’s daylight again.

[PhireSide]

One of the local Twatter/X pages has some info on the fresh new Dacia/Renault Duster here

[PhireSide]

[PhireSide]

So, my noise from the suspension remains.

i am starting to suspect the shock tower components as I read previously on this thread that someone (somewhere near page 120) had an issue where the one shock was mounted lower than the other. I measured mine, and it seems like my driver’s side one is 27mm from the top of the tower on the chassis to the rubber ‘doughnut’ and the passenger side is a bit lower at 19mm.

could there be some missing part on one of my sides? Maybe a spacer, or a bushing of sorts?

[Butch Dassie]

Not sure if this helps: