Trip Report CKGR & Okavango Delta July 2013





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    Default Trip Report CKGR & Okavango Delta July 2013

    Over the years I have obtained all my information for the trips I have done from this forum. So many of you have therefore contributed in a big way to the enjoyment of my travels. Having got back from Bots about 10 days ago, I have almost finished sorting pics and info and now it is time for me to hopefully assist others with some info that might make a difference to their trip in the future.
    Please note that I'm far from a fundi on overlanding, although I have done my fair share of traveling around Southern Africa. I hope the info needed will come through in this trip report, but if anyone needs anything more specific, please just send a PM and I'll do my best to answer your questions as objectively as possible.
    The logistics for this trip was quite a bit of work because of the size of the group and the fact that we went to two very different locations, each one needing its own type of equipment and very different planning etc.
    I have noticed that a lot of you write your trip reports in separate documents like Adobe, but not being a computer boff, I will simply write this one directly as different posts, if this OK with the forum admin.
    So here goes.......

    To give you a bit of backgorund, this trip was organized as a working/playing thing where some senior management of our company (big corporate) had a need to get away where there is no cellphone reception or any such interference to do a big think tank, sharing of ideas and more importantly to get to really know each other. This trip was my suggestion and I therefore ended up with the task of putting it all together. There are many other wonderful destinations in Bots, but I selected this route specifically to get into the wild places, back to basics, but at the same time not having to spend day after day in the vehicles.

    The group: 10 men aged between 35 and 65, coming from Gauteng, Cape Town, Durban and myself from the Lowveld.
    The vehicles:1) My 2000 model Landy 110 TD5 with 320,000 km on the clock, 2) a relatively new 2011 model D3 Fortunner pulling a Conqueror Comfort trailer and 3) a 2009 short wheel base Pajero, pulling an Alu Star trailer. The Landy and Fortunner carried 4 persons each and 2 were in the Pajero.
    Passengers rotated between the 3 vehicles so that the guys in the Landy got a bit of comfort for parts of the trip by moving to the other vehicles
    The Dates: 13th July to 31 July 2013.

    Planning:
    It was decided that the 3 vehicle owners would supply all the necessary equipment for the trip except for personal stuff like sleeping bags, mattresses etc. This we did out of our own equipment making sure that we had what we needed without duplicating stuff. I'm pleased to report that we already had it all and had to purchase nothing. In addition we had a handheld no licence radio in each vehicle.

    We bought a few supplies from a food point of view before we left, more in the lines of dry goods, but decided to purchase the bulk of our food in Bots as we went along. A roster was drawn up for cooking duties in two man teams, menus were finalized and grocery lists were drawn up based on the menus. I'm happy to report that we ate like kings and everything worked out to perfection.
    We placed our meat order with Sandy's Butchery in Palapye for the CKGR leg of the trip and on arrival there, we were blown away by Mike's helpfulness, the quality of meat, his attention to detail having vacuum packed the meat according to our planned meals. Each person in the group commented on the meat and we have yet to find better stuff in SA. It was awesome and we owe a huge thank you to Mike. If you're going to Bots take away the possible border hassles and all the other issues of transporting fresh meat by using Sandy's Butchery. In addition it is a lot cheaper than the meat in SA.
    We did take quite a bit of wine, whisky, brandy etc from SA, but bought our beers in Bots. The local St Louis beer is fantastic and you'll go a very long way to better the St Louis Export beer, I would convert tomorrow if we could get it here.
    We pre-booked and paid for all of our accommodation before leaving with the exception of the CKGR park fees which we paid on arrival at Motsweri gate. ( I will provide details on all of the above stuff as we go along).

    My vehicle is insured by Tuffstuff and I also rented a Satphone through them for the duration of the trip for emergencies from the office and from our SWAMBO's.

    Here are some details that you might need in the planning stages of your trip:

    The border: We used the Groblers Brug/Martin's Drift border post. On the SA side you need a passport valid for 6 months after your return, in addition to vehicle papers (Bank letter, certified copy of registration, proof of insurance whilst in Bots) Having said that, we did not have to produce any of the above, except for the passports, but if they ask for them, you had better have them or they'll send you home.
    On the Bots side you fill in a little white form, which you hand in with your passport, make sure they stamp it. Vehicle owners produce your registration doc at the customs counter and pay the following fees.
    Road Permit (RTP) P40
    MV Insurance (MVI) P50
    Road Fund (NRF) P50
    You then get an official printed receipt, keep this with you as any cop along the way can ask for it.
    Bots has no issues such as special stickers, reflective vests, extinguishers, triangles etc such as the Moz reqirements, but a lot of the above is common sense and you should have some of them anyway.

    Accommodation: We stayed at the following places

    1) Khama Rhino Sanctuary (Serowe) Phone +267 463-0713, email [email protected] Fax +267 463-5808.
    I found the easiest way to arrange things was by email. They were very efficient and no hassles. I also used their website www.khamarhinosanctuary.com

    2) CKGR we stayed at Sunday Camp (CKSUN02) operated by Bigfoot Tours. Joyce was very efficient and contact details are Phone/Fax +267 395-3360. Answering of the phone doesn't always happen first time but I found email the best way to get things done - bigfo[email protected] Their website is www.bigfoottours.co.bw
    You need a booking voucher from them which you produce at the park gate to enter.

    3) Audi Camp in Maun. Phone or email is equally efficient and I found them very willing to please. Good contact are either of the two managers Bob, and Ron.
    Phone: +267 686-0599 Fax: +267 686-5388 email: [email protected]
    Web: www.okavangocamp.com

    4) Woodlands Stop Over (20 k's north of Francistown) Phone: +267 244-0131 email:[email protected] woodlandsbotswana.com
    Again email worked just fine for me.

    Now for the first leg story.

    Having got the group together in Johannesburg on the Friday, we spent the day packing vehicles and sorting kit, making sure we had what we needed without extra junk. We were ready to go by about 18:00 and proceeded to celebrate with anticipation by having a few cold ones around a simple braai. The various members were staying at different locations nearby and arrangements were made for the 3 vehicles to pick them all up from their various overnight venues and then for us all to meet up at the Shell Ultra City on the Ben Schoeman at Midrand at 03:45 on Saturday morning. For me the night was a short one, doing mental checks whilst tossing and turning, the excitement added to the sleep difficulties.
    Finally the time came, a quick shower, a cup of coffee and I set off to pick up my 3 passengers. We arrived at 03:45 on the dot and imediately the others pulled in. All on time, a good omen.
    The weather was good although very cold, so most were bundled up in beenies and heavy jackets and we got away at 04:00, exactly as planned. Traffic was reasonably quiet and being the slowest in the convoy, the Landy set the pace up front. We kept this arrangement for the entire trip. The Cow (Landy) seemed very happy at between 100 & 110 km/hour and this was our cruise speed. Up the N1 was easy going and eventually the lights from the Engen One-Stop came into view, time for a Wimpy Breakfast and a few Mega coffees.


    By the time we were nicely satisfied, the sun was just coming up and the views between Nylstroom and Vaalwater were quite spectacular.


    At the turn off outside Vallwater to Ellisras it was time for a pit stop


    Onwards to Ellisras where the other two vehicles needed to top up with fuel and here we discovered our first hurdle. Although we had increased the daily ATM withdrawal limit on the bank card, the bank had in error reduced it to R100 per day. We made many frantic phone calls to that institution, but got nowhere. We had to live with this situation for the entire trip. Fortunately we could still use the card for purchases. Luckily I had got enough Pula for the border costs and had US$ 1000 in cash with me.
    Once again we set off for Groblersbrug and had absolutely no issues there, in fact we were through both sides within 20 minutes.

    Last edited by TonyP; 2013/08/09 at 10:48 AM.
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    The road from Martin's Drift to Palapye is not in good shape. The problems are within 30 k's of the border, after that it is fine. There are a lot of road works going on, so I'm sure it will be great fairly soon. You can change currency into Pula at Sherwood ranch which is about 5 k's from the border. If traveling over a weekend all Bureaus de Change close at 12:00 on Saturdays, so make use of this one.

    We eventually arrived at Sandy's Butchery in Palapye at about 12:05 to pick up our previously ordered meat. Mike does not have a card machine so you need to pay in cash (Pula or Rands) As said before, I have never had better tasting meat before. His contact details are: Phone +267 714-41141 or 752-46322. He prefers communicating via email on [email protected] GPS co-ordinates are S22 32.463 E27 05.323



    We still had to buy some fresh groceries so we pushed on to Serowe, on the corner before the turn off to the A14 in Serowe is a very nice shopping centre on the right hand side with a superb Spar. Boiteko Spar has it all. A beautiful shop, clean, very well stocked and next door is a Tops for your supplies of St Louis Export Lager.
    From here it is only 28 k's to Khama Rhino Sanctuary, where we pulled in for our first night's stop. The day's distance traveled 603 kilometers.



    We had chosen to use their A frame chalets because we wanted an early start the next day to head for Sunday Camp in the CKGR. Each chalets has 4 single beds in two rooms as well as a shower, toilet and hand basin. They are very comfortable with clean linen and each chalet has a braai, outside tap. Perfect for a quick one night stop over.


    We had traveled with all our water tanks empty, but filled them all up at our chalet for the trip into the CKGR, take your own hose pipe. The type that rolls up flat on a reel are perfect.
    I noticed a few vehicles in the camp site, but all was perfectly quiet and sitting around our camp fire in the bush on our first night couldn't have been better.
    Last edited by TonyP; 2013/08/09 at 12:41 PM.
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    Good usefull report , thanks a mill

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    Well written so far ,looking forward to reading the balance.

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    Good start to what I'm sure is going to be a great trip report. Brings back so many instant memories . Looking forward to the next installment Tony. Subscribed ....
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    Subscribed as well!

    It does bring back so many good memories. Waiting eagerly for the rest Tony
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    Thanks guys, I hope it helps somebody.

    The cost per person for the Khama chalets including the park entry fees and vehicle fees worked out to P245 per person. The breakdown is as follows per person per night.
    Park entry = P46.43
    Vehicle fee = P56.61
    Chalet Accomm = P122.00 (note, the whole chalet is P488
    Bots bed Levy = P10
    and 12% vat.

    The above is real value for money and Khama is a good place to stay. As reported elsewhere on this forum, the restaurant is no more, so it is strictly self catering .

    Sunday (Day 2)
    We were up at sunrise and repacked the vehicles. This was easy as we had only used our kit bags for the night. As can be seen by the following pics, each vehicle was packed to the roofs except for the Fortunner, who had it all in the trailer.



    We stopped at reception to hand in our keys and to purchase a few bags of wood for the first night in the CKGR at P17 per bag, but it is good wood.


    From here it was up the A14 to Letlhakane for a refuel. The distance to Lethlakane from Khama is 163 km. We turned off the highway into town and pulled into the Shell garage. Whilst the others filled up the vehicles I headed into town to try to change some cash into Pula and found a very helpful manager of Chapies who assisted us with a few bucks. On my return the guys were busy doing something with the Landy and it took a while for me to notice a new accessory. In addition I had given them all a grumbling about all their kit saying they might as well have brought the kitchen sink as well, so they had borrowed the zinc tub from a vendor at the garage as a joke. I might add that the Cow still has the bell attached.



    The garage accepts card payments so we were fine with using our R100 per day card. We also filled up our jerrycans here. We continued our drive through town and back onto the highway and low and behold, a brand new Engen Garage about 500 meters on the left of the highway. So in future, there is no need to turn off into town.

    On up the highway and we started to see theses dustdevils all over the place before reaching Rakops


    Opposite Rakops there is a Motel on the left hand side of the highway which I have stayed at on a previous occasion, it is quite comfortable and clean. Obviously we did not make use of it this time and soon got to the turn off where we stopped for the required group pic


    For the first 4 k's the track is fine and then the patches of soft sand start. Momentum is the name of the game. at about kilometer 10, the radio crackles, the Fortuner is stuck and the Pajero can't get around him. A group of cows had forced him to lose momentum and the very fine talcum powder sand had claimed another victim. To give him his due, he was pulling a loaded Conqueror trailer.


    A 50 point turn by the Landy saw us heading back and we tugged him out in reverse. If the guys hadn't been so lazy they could probably have got him out with a bit of a push. We had to reverse for a while to firmer ground to turn right way around again and off we went, stopping every now and then to wait for the less capable vehicles The cow was in her element. But man, that dust is something else.



    The 45 k's to the gate passed relatively quickly and here we produced our Bigfoot booking voucher. The Lady behind the counter said we must pay our park and vehicle fees when we exit the CKGR in 4 days time so off we went once again. Although there are patches of soft sand along the way, their were no more incidents.


    T4A GPS Maps is very accurate and we knew we were close to getting there when we came to Deception Pan


    If I have omitted to say that the CKGR is bone dry, it is an understatement, it doesn't get any dryer than this place is at the moment.
    Finally the turn off to our camp site at CKSUN02 where we waited for the others, in case they missed the turning.


    The sun was getting low in the west, but with 10 pairs of hands we had our camp set in no time




    settled around a good fire to enjoy ribs, pork chops, salad and ice cream for dessert and to appreciate the moon and a zillion stars

    Last edited by TonyP; 2013/08/15 at 09:15 PM.
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    Thanks, it will help a lot for my trip June 2014.
    Enjoying the story so far ...
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    Thanks Tony
    This is really detailed ,I'm so depressed from watching your photos
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    Thanks!
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    Nice report, cant wait for the rest

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    Sounds awesome! We're going to Central in December /January, so this is really helpful - thanks.
    Can't wait to read the rest...

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    Sorry for the delay guys, been busy at work, will add stuff over the weekend by the latest. Lots to come.
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    Subscribed!

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    Realy great read so far, waiting for the rest.
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    What a lovely trip Tony!

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    Eish, you guys are too kind, here comes more.

    I'm not going to bore you with the four days we spent in the CKGR. It was a mixture of work and play. More a case of play by day and work at night around the fire. Not a bad combination.
    Our days consisted of getting up at sunrise, drive around a bit, but we got wise and waited for the game to come to us at the Sunday Pan waterhole. Not a bad decision at the end of the day. After a good morning's viewing we would go back to camp for a brunch, do the shower thing, have a power nap and then back out there in the late afternoon. Back to camp to cook supper and work with a cold beer in the hand.
    Here are a few pics of our routine.













    Brunch back at camp


    A good power nap and relax



    Then back to the waterhole in search of "he who rushes around doing nothing"


    The facilities at CKSUN02 are perfect, what more do you need and the shower bucket was present.


    We were pretty frugal with our water supply although everyone did take a daily shower. We had a total of 350 litres of water which worked out perfectly for the 4 days. When we got back to the tar at Rakops we had about 10 liters left.
    Now about the camp. It was the most perfect spot. Absolute silence reigned supreme, other than the bird calls and a good chorus of lion moans, grunts and roars every night. The following was a trail left in camp on our second night, but nobody heard him.


    As many have said, the wonder of the CKGR is it's vastness, timeless beauty and the incredible sense of being alone in the universe. We did take a quick look at the other Sunday Camps, they were empty but I would have a hard time choosing between all of them. They are all absolutely amazing.

    Sadly, the time came for us to pack up which we did at sunrise on the 5th day of the trip to head back through Matswere gate and on to Maun for the second part of our adventure. After loading the vehicles we took turns with 3 rakes that we had brought with us and we raked the entire camp site, filled up the little water tub that someone had left previously for the birds, left a little stack of firewood next to the fire pit to save the next visitors the trouble of wood hunting on their first night, loaded our garbage bags on the Landy's roof rack and hit the trail.
    A howling, bitterly cold wind was blowing from the north east making it very difficult to see the soft sand bits in the blowing dust, but after a few hours the gate came into view. We stopped, offloaded our garbage in the trailer provided and headed into the office to settle our bill. Nice to get out of the cold wind and blowing sand.
    Park entry fees were P120 per person per day plus vehicle entry fees at P50 per vehicle per day (no extra for trailers) and then of course the P160 per person per day paid to Bigfoot for the camp.

    All very worthwhile and I'd do it all over again tomorrow. We experienced our second problem of the trip on the track back to the highway, not something you would wish on anybody, but solved without a hassle. The people of Botswana are the best....watch this space.
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    We finished the formalities and headed to the vehicles when Ryan, the owner of the Fortuner & Conqueror trailer came up to me, it seems that he had forgotten to release the handbrake on the trailer before setting off from Sunday camp. He did not feel any extra drag, thinking it was just the soft sand conditions, anyway his brakes on the trailer were smoking and the white paint on the rims were now shaded a dirty brown from the heat.
    We made sure the brake was released and sent the Pajero ahead, the Fortuner in the middle and I brought up the rear in the Landy, just in case. We had lots of time, so pushed on slowly. I hung back a few 100 meters to stay out of his dust and things progressed nicely until coming around a bend we were faced with this.


    and Ryan running down the track after his wheel. The heat had burned the grease out of the bearings and they disintegrated as did the brake shoes etc.


    A bit of a vergaardering later

    we decided that there was no alternative but to secure the trailer using the highlift jack on the Landy and continue to Maun to get help, leaving the trailer where it was.Not a nice decision for Ryan to make.



    I headed back to the park gate to inform them of the mishap and what few plans we had at that stage and they committed to keep an eye on the trailer overnight. A huge thank you to the rangers for taking care of the trailer, you guys were great.

    For some, this bit of excitement was too much and on getting to the highway we set off for Maun.


    Many fairly large herds of cattle crossing the road to water meant that we seemed to be continuously breaking our stride and then for a fairly lengthy stretch between Magodi and the Boteti Bridge found us trying to dodge millions of potholes, a fruitless task. They were doing some patchwork, but it is going to take years to do the entire stretch at this rate.

    We eventually slowed down on the outskirts of Maun at about 14:00 and headed straight for an old acquaintances workshop. Louw from Delta 4X4 had assisted me in the past. After explaining our problem, he rolled into action. Phoning around Maun he located some bearings that would suffice in getting the trailer to Maun and we made arrangements to meet him at the Engen Garage the next morning to go and recover the trailer. Feeling a bit more relaxed on the issue we headed for our spot for the next two nights...Audi Camp which is situated about 12 k's north of Maun.
    Having spent the past few days roughing it in the CKGR, we had decided to have a bit of time on R&R at Audi to get some clothes laundered and spend a lot of time in the great showers as well as washing down the Kalahari dust at their great pub before setting off into the Delta via Mokoros. With the trailer problem it is just as well that we had booked 2 nights in their permanent 2 bedded safari tents. In addition we used the time to replenish our food stock.
    On arrival, we fell out of the vehicles and stumbled stiffly to the bar to get a head start on washing the throats.

    The younger members decided to make a session of it whilst us older and wiser ones hit the showers, another good call.
    This shooters menu was attacked with glee by the not so wise


    One of the more dangerous species, a Black mamba or something like that


    After a great shower

    we managed to pry the others away from the bar and had a superb meal in the restaurant.


    During supper a call came through from one of our PA's, two members of the group had to head back to Joburg for an important meeting. Not wanting to stand in the way of business we didn't interfere, but sadly they would have to fly back on the morning we left for the Delta.
    Last edited by TonyP; 2013/08/15 at 09:27 PM.
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    Keep in coming tony, stunning pics and great reporting. Wild dogs in the CKGR !! I don't think i' ve seen images of these guys from here before, where did you find them? What a sighting. I guess if you have to leave a trailer behind Botswana is probably one safer places. 4x4 folk seem to be a breed apart ready to help at the drop of a hat. Looking forward to the second half of the trip.
    Last edited by Keith Newnham; 2013/08/16 at 05:51 AM.
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    Nice report, looking forward to the rest.
    Dewald

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