Wiring Diagram for Caravan





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  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2007
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    Port Elizabeth
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    43
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    Default Wiring Diagram for Caravan

    Hi People

    Can anyone please help me.

    When I go camping I connect the 220 volt supply to the caravan and form that i run my fridge and geyser mainly, plus the 12 volt lights at night.

    Now the way it is wired at the moment is the 220 volt goes to the on-board charger then from there to the battery and from there to all the appliances. The problem is that the deep cycle battery runs flat after about 4 hrs. This is my first caravan so i am not sure how they should be wired.

    Thanks for any help.
    Prince
    Toyota Legend 4x4 2.7i

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
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    Klerksdorp
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    Default

    Prince,

    Are you running the fridge & geyser off 220v or 12v? Many of the older fridges were 3-way, and could run off gas, 12v DC as well as 220V AC. I don't know about the geyser voltage. But a normal Caravan power pack only charges at some 4A (or used to, I don't know about the newer ones) and if you're drawing a higher amperage than that, the battery will run flat.

    In short, only run the lights off the power pack and the fridge & geyser off 220V AC Mains, even though they pass through the Chargemaster. It goes to say that you have checked that there are no blown fuses in the Chargemaster?

    You might also want to try post this question here:
    https://mail.caravansa.co.za/forum/ as there are many knowledgable chaps in that field on the Caravan forum.


    -F_D
    Eric Skeen is the Family Dog
    White Fang:
    1999 2700i DC Raider 4x4
    Bull Dog: 1987 4Y-EFI 2200 DC 4x4
    Pra Dog: 1998 Prado VX 3.4 V6
    Hound Dog: 2000 2700i SC 4x4

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Port Elizabeth
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    43
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    Default

    Hi Family Dog

    The fridge I have is a minus 40 it can only run on 12v. But i think the geyser runs on 220v.

    The caravan is a 2000 explorer. I was thinking of putting a transformer in so when i hook up to 220v then i will get power from the transformer rather than the battery. But I would like to see a wiring diagram so i know what I do is right and safe.

    Thanks for the caravan forum I will ask the same question there.
    Prince
    Toyota Legend 4x4 2.7i

  4. #4
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    Sep 2006
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    Prince,

    This is then the problem. The Fridge draws roughly ~10A DC on 12V, and the ChargeMaster can only supply some 40% of that. When you run the caravan lights, you use about 1A for each fluorescent tube.

    You can build an external power supply for the fridge only, but it will cost a bit. You would require a nominal 12V Transformer rated at least 20A or so to prevent it from overheating, and a bridge rectifier to convert the AC to DC. 25A bridges are available, but it will require a hefty aluminium heatsink.

    Alternatively, we have 22A DC Power Supplies which are designed to power HF/SSB radios, one of these might do the job but I cannot recall it's duty cycle rating.

    I am not sure that the Minus 40 fridge has any form of thermostat control - I think it might be an absorption unit that has a constant current draw, but could be wrong on that.

    Please let me know what the Caravan Forum has to say on this, Mark Lester is the resident expert there.

    -F_D
    Eric Skeen is the Family Dog
    White Fang:
    1999 2700i DC Raider 4x4
    Bull Dog: 1987 4Y-EFI 2200 DC 4x4
    Pra Dog: 1998 Prado VX 3.4 V6
    Hound Dog: 2000 2700i SC 4x4

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Pretoria
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    64
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    2,019

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Family_Dog View Post
    Prince,

    This is then the problem. The Fridge draws roughly ~10A DC on 12V, and the ChargeMaster can only supply some 40% of that. -F_D
    I also have a Minus 40 which use the same Danfoss BDF 35 compressor than NL, Waeco etc so no way that it will draw 10A constantly. Insulation on a Minus 40 is also excellent so the power usage is close to a NL. You are thinking of 3 way fridges which Minus 40 never made, they use a heating element draws a constant 10A which will flatten a battery in no time.

    I will buy a 15A (effective 10A) charger from Midas and connect it to the battery. Perhaps the battery needs replacement?
    Last edited by PierredW; 2007/12/19 at 10:32 AM.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
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    Klerksdorp
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    Default

    Aahhh, as I stated, I wasn't sure if this was an absorption unit with a heating element or not, wasn't aware that it had a compressor! I was thinking of the old caravan types that used a heating element and certainly do draw 10A continuous.

    You could then opt for an additional charger as Pierre suggests, but now you do not require a 20A unit as I previously stated because the compressor does not run continuously on the unit.


    -F_D
    Eric Skeen is the Family Dog
    White Fang:
    1999 2700i DC Raider 4x4
    Bull Dog: 1987 4Y-EFI 2200 DC 4x4
    Pra Dog: 1998 Prado VX 3.4 V6
    Hound Dog: 2000 2700i SC 4x4

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Brackenfell
    Age
    61
    Posts
    1,439

    Default

    I think the battery is shot. I had the same problem or almost on my Jurgens 4x4 trailer just after I got it. The nose cone fridge wont work and after about 3 hrs my lights and waterpump wont work fitted a new dc and away i went. The guy I got it from did not look after the battery and left it un charged for months and only charged if he wants to use the trailer witch was only in the hunting season.

    My 2c
    2003 COLT RODEO 2.8TDI BRACKENFELL CAPE TOWN SOUTH AFRICA 1300 Tazz vir Liewe Heksie

  8. #8

    Default

    I think kenny hit the nail On the head, Have just done a fitting of an intellegent solenoid for one of the guys at work, was having the same problem. Remove the battery from the van and charge using a trickle charger for 24 hours, Have it load tested. This will give a clear indication of battery state.
    @nd check the charge rate from the chargemaster as the transformer may be faultly.

    Cheers
    Mark

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