Warning Lights





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Thread: Warning Lights

  1. #1
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    Default Warning Lights

    I've tried Googling, but could not find any info.

    My 2.8 Sailor bakkie developed a strange problem, when I start it, there is a light looking like the handbrake warning light without the exclamation mark that lights up very dimly. The battery warning light also light up dimly and the vehicle goes in limp-mode.

    Am I correct to assume it may be something to do with the alternator? To test it, do I simply put a multimeter across the battery terminals?

    I must also say that it does not happen every time I start the vehicle, but it is becoming a more regular occurance.

    Any advise will be appreciated, as I would rather spend mone on Groenie than my daily commute

  2. #2
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    Put a Multimeter across the battery terminals while the vehicle is idling, get a reading of 14.2.

    I've noticed from the alternator there is a pipe going to the brake booster, since both the battery and (what I perceive as) brake lights are on, my attention will be with the brakes from now on.

    Tried to take the wheels off to inspect the pads, but someone must have tightened the nuts with a pneumatic tool - I've bent two wheel spanners to a nearly unrecognisable mess. Tonight it will be a heavy duty socket and an extension bar

  3. #3
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    Could not find my Heavy Duty Power Bar last night, this morning I decided to take it (at limp mode speed) to a Tire shop to loosen the nuts. Less than half a kilometer from home, the lights went out and I was back to normal speeds.

    Got to the tire shop, gave the nusts som slack and I tightened it by hand myself.

    Now I am driving with my entire toolbox and trolley jack on my backseat waiting for the lights to come again, then I will strip the wheels next to the road and see if it has something to do with brake wear

  4. #4
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    Default

    sounds like an idea next to the road wonders have been made
    have you tryed checking if one of the cables to the drum brakes is not scew or something?
    4x4 action group
    www.gwm4x4club.co.za

    Nissan navara (camping and family truck)
    Jeep XJ (to make sure fortunes can't follow)
    Triumph tiger 800 (everyday drive)
    Conqueror safari trailer

  5. #5
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    Default

    That problem is often a bad earth - seen it often in vehicles over the years

  6. #6
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    Checked all cables even used the jumpers as additional earth points, but nothing, the brakes (both the pads and the shoes) seem to be fine.

    I am sure it must be a wear indicator of some kind, as the warning lights are brighter than what they were before

  7. #7
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    Default

    Does the vehicle have wear indicators ? and why is the battery light also on

  8. #8
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    I hope it does have wear indicators somewhere, else my entire theory goes out the window.

    There is a rubber pipe connecting the brake booster with the altenator, when I take that off, it makes a "shhhhh' sound, so it makes some sense that if there is fault with either the brakes or altenator that both lights will light up.

    As stated previously, the alternator checks out fine, so it leaves only the brakes.
    Last edited by MouseDog; 2013/03/16 at 12:57 PM.

  9. #9
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    Smile

    I remember I once had a similar problem, but for me the brake fluid did the trick! At times problem is not as complicated!

  10. #10
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    Brake fluid is full, checked the sensor, and it brings on the handbrake light.

    Checked and cleaned all brakes, no improvement.

    Took it for diagnostics, no error codes. And I am not prepared to pay a mechanic "per hour" to try and find the fault.

    I don't know which avenue to persue next - any idea where I must look next

  11. #11
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    just remember, that some switches are monitored by the ecu, ie, the brake pedal switch is. clutch too.
    when riding on your clutch the ecu find that the switch is normal open, where it should be closed "foot off pedal"
    same with brake switch.

    my brake switch became stuck at some time.
    not saying it is, but a possible avenue

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by sea sick View Post
    just remember, that some switches are monitored by the ecu, ie, the brake pedal switch is. clutch too.
    when riding on your clutch the ecu find that the switch is normal open, where it should be closed "foot off pedal"
    same with brake switch.

    my brake switch became stuck at some time.
    not saying it is, but a possible avenue
    Checked both the brake switch and clutch switch, they seem fine, no improvement with the (TOS prohibiting my feeling) lights. Are there any other switches that I could look at?

    I am at the point to just take the globes out of the warning lights and flogging the vehicle

  13. #13
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    Is it possible for a turbo to pack up without any warning? When driving the vehicle, she will rev cleanly in neutral or with clutch pushed it, even in 1st and 2nd, but no feeling of the turbo working. From 3rd to 5th the revs will not go pas 2100 (where the turbo should start working). Or is this just the vehicle's version of Limp mode?

    I must add, there is no smoke of any color whatsoever.

  14. #14
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    Hi Mousedog i had the same problem on my 2.8 steed not revving over 2000rpm took it to a diesel mechanic cleaned the egr valve put it back and voila!..problem solved!Got vehicle back on my way home engine light came on thought he missed something.Took it to GWM Midrand and told me it was the brake switch..replaced it and light when off...came on after about 1000km again then switched it off waited 5 minutes and light was off after a while came on again then i pumped the brake pedal few times and it went off.I suspect it has somthing to do with the brake booster sensor.By the way i blanked the egr off .

  15. #15
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    Default

    Just as I wanted to start testing the sensors, the lights went of, it has been about a week with them off, last night on my way home, I drove a bit of corrugated gravel road and they were back on.

    I somehow doubt that it has something to do with the diesel system, a friend of mine with the 2.? Petrol version has the exact same problem, only difference is that his vehicle does not go into limp mode so it does not bother him.

    Where is the EGR valve?

  16. #16
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    It connects from the exhaust manifold and runs across the rear of the engine into the intake manifold.The valve is at the intake manifold looks like a round little booster but it is a diaphram.

  17. #17
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    Saga continues, lights are still on, but after about 5km of driving they go off until I stop at which point they come on when I restart.

    I've also noticed that the vehicle runs slightly hotter than usual.

    What baffles me however, when the vehicle goes into limp mode, I switch the aircon on and she drives normally again.

    Myself and the dealers are totally stumped with this issue

  18. #18
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    Sounds like the chinas made a bypass to limp mode
    You think it's only your bakkie or will this bypass work for all?
    4x4 action group
    www.gwm4x4club.co.za

    Nissan navara (camping and family truck)
    Jeep XJ (to make sure fortunes can't follow)
    Triumph tiger 800 (everyday drive)
    Conqueror safari trailer

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by gualter View Post
    Sounds like the chinas made a bypass to limp mode
    You think it's only your bakkie or will this bypass work for all?
    Somehow I think its related to the fault I have.

    It is seriously driving me insane

  20. #20
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    Default pipe between actuator and turbo leaking.

    Hi mousedog.
    Check this site. http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/m...-DIY-check.htm
    My 2.8 used to go in limp mode. All I did was replace hose clamps on actuator pipe with proper one's. That solved problem. Bakkie lighter on fuel and more power.
    Hope this helps.
    Deon
    2008 GWM Steed 2,8 D/C 4X4

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