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1995 300TDi Defender with VGT Turbo (stolen by my son now)
2002 Defender with LS1 MS3 ECU, 4L80e, LT230 1.222, Lockers and HD CW&P, 35" with 4" Lift
2005 Defender TD5
Is it astonishing how involved we get with our landy no other brand makes you so hands on
Time for clutch replacement
Do the reverse switch at the same time
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Zapiture,
Discovery 4 Facelift 2015
Defender D90 2.8 2003
Conqueror Commander 2014
[QUOTE=Zapiture;4580548]Time for clutch replacement
Same here...
Your DMF still in there?
1964 SII 88"
1983 LR90 V8
1998 Def 90 2.8i (Her's)
2011 Def 90 Puma
1964 SII 88"
1983 LR90 V8
1998 Def 90 2.8i (Her's)
2011 Def 90 Puma
Anyone have the wiring diagram for the reverse light? Replaced the switch but no power going to the back.
Tx in advance.
Zapiture,
Discovery 4 Facelift 2015
Defender D90 2.8 2003
Conqueror Commander 2014
Have you got 12V at one of the switch wires you should have, if not look at fuse, if you have then bridge the terminal and see if get 12V at the end of wire at light, if you do then connect switch and put into reverse and re check,
next check earth wire at light make sure it is earthing,
also check contacts on light could be loose or corroded and even blown globe,
there are also terminals close to reverse light check them
therw is also a terminal connector by clutch on the firewall chech there as well
if putting LED rev light some times wires need to be swooped round
ignition must be on for light to work
Last edited by clivemd; 2021/02/13 at 11:29 AM.
1995 300TDi Defender with VGT Turbo (stolen by my son now)
2002 Defender with LS1 MS3 ECU, 4L80e, LT230 1.222, Lockers and HD CW&P, 35" with 4" Lift
2005 Defender TD5
I am speaking under correction as I worked on it fairly long ago and my memory is a bit foggy.
Power comes via the fuse box to the switch. From the switch to the reverse light. The light grounds on the body.
If all else fails, pull all the fuses (take a pic beforehand) and pull the reverse light bulb. Using a multimeter on continuity function and an extension wire clamped to the reverse light contact point, tone the fuse holders until you identify the correct fuse.
Verify that the opposite slot of the fuse holder feeds 12v. Try to reverse engineer the circuit like that.
If none of the fuse holders tone, you probably have a broken wire between the fuse box, switch and reverse lamp.
Alternatively, the switch may provide the ground. I cant remember if it was the reverse switch or difflock switch where I have seen this.
If this is the case, 12v is constantly fed to the reverse lamp. The ground wire runs to the switch and when it is 'on', the circuit to ground is completed.
I'm gonna put a curse on you and all your kids will be born completely naked.
Thanks guys, much appreciated. Traced the wire, goes into the relay. I’ll come right from here.
Zapiture,
Discovery 4 Facelift 2015
Defender D90 2.8 2003
Conqueror Commander 2014
The wires that run to the rear aren't in an awesome location. I am assuming it runs on top of the chassis and not inside.
The exhaust likes to burn them and gravel also eats them away. A visual inspection may reveal melted or broken wires running to the back.
I'm gonna put a curse on you and all your kids will be born completely naked.
A while back some company fixed our potholes, they used a truck that sprayed the tar at high pressure.
I ask twice if I should move my vehicle, they assured me my vehicle is safe.
While washing the Landy I discovered that the whole vehicle is covered by a fine overspray of tar.
Yeah!
Luckily I had a clay bar, but it was a lot of unnecessary work.
I should have trusted my gut feeling.
Some might say that I should have claimed or made a fuss, I just wasn't into all the schlep and I knew I would do the job better.
Last edited by jfh; 2021/02/20 at 02:44 PM.
A couple days back I was reverse parking at the office and saw the brake lights weren't on...
So I checked the fuse and it was fine so my thought was that the switch was gone and started getting quotes on replacement.
Yesterday I took the afternoon to investigate a bit further and found the wiring to be fine so it definitely is the switch. Upon taking the switch out, I saw it to be in relative good condition and so I cleaned it and tested it outside the hole it stays in and it worked fine. This is when I came to realize the 'setting' of the switch which is quite important. I don't know how it came out of it's correct position but basically it needs to be just wound into the thread slightly as too much will leave the button pushed in permanently and then no brake lights. It also has a brass washer which locks it in this position. I suspect this washer was not tight and the switch wound itself deeper or even looser and then sat skew in the hole.
Was quite an interesting job as it's not in a very nice position to work and the Sun did it's work on my neck and back of my legs.
2018 Suzuki Jimny - Expedition vehicle
2002 Land Rover Defender - Daily Drive
If everything noted in the above posts fails try checking the part of the selector in the gearbox that activates the switch. Mine was so worn down that it couldn't push the switch in far enough to turn on
I think he's talking about the brake light switch.
Busy with my tdi refurb..almost there
Last edited by Mellin; 2021/03/08 at 09:14 PM.
Finished installing coolant hoses.
air cleaner housing in and top intercooler hose in. LOWER HOSES CANT FIND
fuel filter in.
Merit before Race - anything else IS Racism.
Stay Calm, engage low-ratio, keep buggering on - a Landy Man
Longevity isn't worth dying for,
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