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  1. #361
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    Default

    Maybe its was his eyes sweating just a bit
    Last edited by mfuwefarmer; 2012/11/23 at 07:34 PM.

  2. #362
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    Default TerryC

    Thank you Stan - for a wonderfully detailed report and the way in which you have presented it. You have captured our trip not only day by day but moment by moment. I am sure that if you ever decide to retire from being a surgeon, Tony could line you up to do some writing! Thanks also to Anne for all the note taking.
    Well done!!

    Terry & Margaret



    http://youtu.be/ze0E9XAJ4fs Busanga -Morning of 17th


    http://youtu.be/XiMQhO_nOmo Busanga - Afternoon of 17th


    Wednesday 17 – Busanga Plains

    Up at 5.15am Breakfast 5.45am - Game drive 6.15 – 11.05am
    During the morning Game drive we saw:-.
    3 lioness & 1 young lion (about 4/5 years),
    1 cheetah, it had moved off its kill so we watched the vultures for a while after tracking the cheetah in the nearby forest.
    Tea/coffee and muffins supplied by our driver & guide, Ferrison, the others group were with Tyrone.
    Back for lunch, rest, as it was very hot and shower then tea/coffee and sarmies at about 3.30/3.45pm and off on another late afternoon game drive this time we swopped vehicles and Tyrone would be our guide.
    We watched a herd of about 60 elephants, lions, jackals, servals, leopard (up a tree – spotted by Terry) and 2 cubs, wild dogs, genet, white tailed mongoose, sable antelope, hyaena, roan antelope, lechwe, puku, zebras, Lichtenstein’s Hartebeeste Wow – what a day of game viewing! Also had drinks and sausages while watching wild dogs.
    Arrived back at camp at about 9pm. Supper was at about 10pm. Bed at about 11pm
    Breakfast: Fruit, cereal, toast & marmalade. Tea/coffee.
    Lunch: Lasagna, green salad, beetroot & rolls
    Supper: Soup
    Pork fillet, potatoes & some veges.
    Apple Tart
    “What an incredible day this had been”


    http://youtu.be/Ry6NkNR5X_0 Our last day at Busanga


    Thursday 18 – Busanga Plains

    Up at 5.10am Breakfast 5.45am Game drive 6.30 – 10am
    Goodbye to Judy and Dave as they only had 2 nights at Busanga Plains.
    This morning all 6 of us were on a game drive with Ferrison - 4 lions (3 females and 1 male), big herd of elephants (50 +) plus many babies, ground hornbill, buck, not much else. Tea/coffee & muffins
    Then, relaxing, chatting, lunch, shower, and 3 new people arrived – Tyrone’s dad, a lady and a strange little man – with bags of camera equipment – he needed the whole seat of the game drive vehicle!!!!! Somehow he reminded us of Mr. Been. He was keen to show us his pictures --- Tony remarked that were not that great.
    Afternoon tea/coffee and cake! Then game drive with Ferrison. 4 – 7pm
    Elephants, hippos at hippo pool, 2 male lions – just lying and rolling around. – The flies were all over them and must worry them to some extent. Drinks and biltong!
    Dark clouds – rain threatened.
    (Busanga is only open about 4 months of each year – July – Oct. It takes 2 months to set up camp and 2 weeks to take down. Beds, tents & solid furniture are piled onto the deck of the lounge and covered, while linen, crockery etc are all taken back to Mukambi)
    Breakfast: Fruit, cereal, toast, marmalade
    Lunch: Fish & sauce tartare, small roasted potatoes, salad & rolls
    Supper: Fish cakes
    Lamb chops, cous cous & veges
    Milk Tart


    Margaret & Terry

    PS I am having a problem with my Vodacom 3G connection. Problem has been escalated but so far it has not improoved. I only get a 2G connection!
    2004 Disco II XS TD5 A/T Sold - Sad to see it go
    2008 Land Cruiser 76 4.2 Diesel SW

  3. #363
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    Default Can I provoke a comparative analysis?

    This thread is already a valuable reference for a planned Zambian trip. Perhaps further value can be added if I can elicit further comments and information from those on this trip and also from others well travelled in Zambia? Points of view and emphasis will vary. Maybe the sort of questions and answers here can be used as a template to add a variety of opinions and add value?


    *What destination was your personal highlight?

    Busanga Plains, for it’s isolation, numbers and variety of game and excellent birding.


    *Which activity(s) here contributed the most to your enjoyment?

    The expert guiding on the game drives.


    *At which destination(s) would you have liked to have stayed longer and why?

    Definitely McBrides. One walk with Chris, none with Charlotte and only one boat drift was not enough- two extra days.
    Mushingashi- one extra day.
    Liuwa Plains- two extra days spent further north perhaps three weeks later would have been great.


    *If pushed for time, which destination(s) would be cut or reduced and why?

    Southern Kafue, to allow more time for the above. Certainly if I go again I would skip most of this. The animals and birds were just not enough.


    *With no time limits what would you most have liked to add to your trip?

    Definitely would still add Kasanka for the bats, sitatunga, the isolation and the environmental variety. Would love to tag Shoebill Island onto this.
    To traverse North and South Luangwa as well would be great.


    *Which was the best campsite?

    Pontoon campsite Kasanka. McBrides right up there.


    *Which was the best non-camping option?

    Busanga Plains Camp.


    *Which route was the most interesting or challenging?

    The road and ferries into Liuwa.


    *Which route was the most boring or disappointing?

    The southern Spinal Route.


    *What was your most exciting sighting?

    The serval at Busanga. All the sitatunga at Kasanka were also special. In context the wild dogs next to the Nata-Kasani road.


    *Best positive feature(s) of Zambia as a self-drive destination?

    All the water, especially the rivers. The hospitality and friendliness.


    *Most negative Zambian feature(s)?

    The black market fuel at Mombwa and the money changers at the borders. The attitude at Konkamoya.


    *Best add-on of your trip.

    Kasanka.


    *Choose your single favourite photograph(s).




    Come all, do not let me down here. Choose your own categories if you like.
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    Last edited by Stan Weakley; 2012/11/24 at 09:41 AM.
    Stanley Weakley.
    Toyota Landcruiser 76SW 4,2L diesel.

    “Great journeys are memorable not so much for what you saw, but for where you camped”.

    Trans East Africa 2015/2016 Trip report https://www.4x4community.co.za/forum...-6-SLOW-DONKEY
    OR
    http://www.4x4community.co.za/forum/...e16?highlight= from post 315.

  4. #364
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    Default

    OK, I'll play. This is my current favourite photo.

    I can't argue with your summary, Stan, in any respect.

    Mike
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    "A poxy, feral, Brit architect who drinks bad beer and supports the wrong rugby team." Tony Weaver

    "Mike for President" Freeflyd

  5. #365
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    Default

    Stan I think you are spot-on!

    I have stated many a time and will say it again, Southern Kafue south of Mukambi/Kaingo is an absolute waste of time and good money and it will remain so until the powers in charge have sorted out the poaching and re-populated the area. Yes it has potential but then its needs firm and decisive intervention. The spinal road...goodness knows why they have done it now..........?

    Kasanka and Shoebill ranks very high in my books as well as those already mentioned by Stan.

    The contributions made by all in this thread is very positive and much appreciated. Sure there are issues the tourism industry and nature conservation agencies are grappling with and hopefully answers would be found to make Zambia an even more attractive destiny especially for the South African and European self drivers.

  6. #366
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    Default

    To be fair, Bertie, Nanzhila is a pretty special place. Unfortunately, we all drifted off in different directions and so no one went there, but I thoroughly recommend it. Good game numbers, and great birding. Also, whilst Konkamoya were very unpleasant to us, there is lots of wildlife in the area, with some great herds of ellies. It isn't all bad news in the south.

    Mike
    "A poxy, feral, Brit architect who drinks bad beer and supports the wrong rugby team." Tony Weaver

    "Mike for President" Freeflyd

  7. #367
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    Default

    Folks.

    I've emailed all from our trip but let me post it here too. Could everyone please visit Trip Advisor and give feedback on the camps and lodges who hosted us. This is important for their business these days, unfortunately, so a few minutes of your time, please.

    Many thanks.

    Mike
    "A poxy, feral, Brit architect who drinks bad beer and supports the wrong rugby team." Tony Weaver

    "Mike for President" Freeflyd

  8. #368
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    Default

    I have been there Mike at both venues not to long ago
    I agree Nanzhila is an excellent birding destination, but hardly any game maybe 10% of the carrying capacity, which on its own as a visit must be a bit of a waste of money and time which could have been spent more rewardingly elsewhere in the KNP.
    Last edited by mfuwefarmer; 2012/11/24 at 02:34 PM.

  9. #369
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    Default Brukkaros Crater

    http://youtu.be/rFA79SmDqG8

    The Brukkaros Crater was our first overnight stop in Namibia , on our way to Zambia . While it can be argued that Namibia should feature on the Namibian pages , it is an (un)fortunate fact that Namibia /Botswana /Zim are bound to feature large in any overland trip to Zambia. Hence this thread on the Zambia section.
    Brukkaros is an extinct volcano 40 km to the west of the road betwen Keetmanshoop and Mariental. The camp site is run as a Community Campsite.
    We arrived in the dark , found nobody at the gate , and indeed we were the only people on the mountain that night.
    In the dark we drove a fairly steep 4x4 only track up the side of the crater and by 10 pm we had set up camp at the top . No water supplies , a long drop toilet and exciting views in the morning.
    Great value for money - the next morning there was still no signs of any human activity- so in fact it cost us nothing. Not an ideal stop over if you are in a hurry or desperately need a good shower. But it certainly breaks the monotony of the Great North Road...

  10. #370
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    Default

    Hi Stan

    My feedback as per your request. My views differ only slightly from yours...

    *What destination was your personal highlight?


    I agree with your choice of Busanga -except for one thing :
    The Cost. While I understand where the price comes from and appreciate that we had a special bargain price - fact remains that 2 nights at Busanga escalated the cost of the trip by 50 %...
    So - pride of place has to go to Mc Brides.

    *Which activity(s) here contributed the most to your enjoyment?

    The River Trips at Mc Brides were pure bliss.


    *At which destination(s) would you have liked to have stayed longer and why?

    "Definitely McBrides. One walk with Chris, none with Charlotte and only one boat drift was not enough- two extra days.

    Liuwa Plains- two extra days spent further north perhaps three weeks later would have been great.
    "

    Agreed


    *If pushed for time, which destination(s) would be cut or reduced and why?

    "Southern Kafue, to allow more time for the above. Certainly if I go again I would skip most of this. The animals and birds were just not enough." Yes
    In particular , I would give Konkamayo a big miss


    *With no time limits what would you most have liked to add to your trip?


    "To traverse North and South Luangwa as well would be great. "


    *Which was the best campsite?

    "McBrides right up there." Mc Brides had a starnge effect on me - food for the soul..


    *Which was the best non-camping option?

    Mukambi - Linda , in her generosity , seemed always to be looking for an excuse to give a free upgrade from (free) camping to a chalet.

    *Which route was the most interesting or challenging?

    "The road and ferries into Liuwa."

    Yes. Although it was not easy driving , I actually rate this as the personal highlight of the trip


    *Which route was the most boring or disappointing?

    "The southern Spinal Route". Yes - few redeeming features.The Elephant Sanctuary was a rewarding visit - otherwise not very uplifting..


    *What was your most exciting sighting?

    The serval at Busanga. All the sitatunga at Kasanka were also special. In context the wild dogs next to the Nata-Kasani road.


    *Best positive feature(s) of Zambia as a self-drive destination?

    The hospitality and friendliness. Yes , big time.


    *Most negative Zambian feature(s)?

    "The attitude at Konkamoya."


    *Best add-on of your trip.

    Caprivi House Boat Safari Lodge - Katim Mulilo , with Curt and Silka .
    Very comfortable , last outpost before crossing in to Zambia. Excellent shopping in Katima.


    *Choose your single favourite photograph(s).

    Stans Ele pic is the most dramatic , in my eyes.

  11. #371
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    Default

    I'm afraid I have too many highlights and too many favourites to answer this one in detail. Nanzhila in the south, despite the paucity of game, is one of my favourite areas in the Kafue, and the camp is excellent. Rapids campsite at Kaingu has the most sublime setting, but the campsite at McBrides, and Mushingashi also challenge for best spots. The remoteness of Liuwa makes it very special. If the attitude at Konkamoyo could get sorted out, it has a lovely setting on the lake, and the big herds of elephant that come through are special. The Ngoma teak forest was very special, and I would love to see it in leaf.
    Here are five of my favourite shots from the trip (I am still sorting through over 2000 shots):
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    Tony Weaver
    2010 Mitsubishi Pajero Sport 3.2l diesel
    Previously
    1991 Land Rover 110 Hi-Line 3.5l V8; 1968 2.25l Land Rover SII; 1969 2.6l SIIA; 1973 2.25l SIII
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  12. #372
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    Default

    I was NOT part of the forum trip in particular but visited the same areas twice just before and after you guys have made your visits.
    I would like to put my views from the independent visit into the equation, just for references.


    Quote Originally Posted by Stan Weakley View Post
    This thread is already a valuable reference for a planned Zambian trip. Perhaps further value can be added if I can elicit further comments and information from those on this trip and also from others well travelled in Zambia? Points of view and emphasis will vary. Maybe the sort of questions and answers here can be used as a template to add a variety of opinions and add value?


    *What destination was your personal highlight?

    Busanga Plains, for it’s isolation, numbers and variety of game and excellent birding.
    Unfortunately out of bounds for self drivers, but definately, you awakened my appetite.
    For me it was the wildebeast migration which we hit full blast visitng Liuwa Plains by mid October.

    *Which activity(s) here contributed the most to your enjoyment?

    The expert guiding on the game drives.
    The efforts by the operator in Liuwa to please the visitors, fire were lightened, firewood provided for free and the shower facilities prepared individually, great effort.


    *At which destination(s) would you have liked to have stayed longer and why?

    Definitely McBrides. One walk with Chris, none with Charlotte and only one boat drift was not enough- two extra days.
    Mushingashi- one extra day.
    Liuwa Plains- two extra days spent further north perhaps three weeks later would have been great.
    Mc Brides for sure, but also Mayukuyuku and the northern part of Kafue in particular.
    Can agree as the migration was showing progress, the new calves were born at astonishing rates.
    We visited the same location twice within 2 days (water hole in central part of Liuwa) and the presence of young ones really "exploded" in just a day.


    *If pushed for time, which destination(s) would be cut or reduced and why?

    Southern Kafue, to allow more time for the above. Certainly if I go again I would skip most of this. The animals and birds were just not enough.
    Southern part of Kafue was a disappointment, very scattered highlights.
    Positive in this part: Wildlife around southern tip of IT dam
    Nanzhila camp set-up
    Lowlights: Activities compromised by Tsetses, little wildlife spotting and over rated Hippo Bay camp site (in effect it does not even exist anymore but you camp improvised at Konkamoyo)


    *With no time limits what would you most have liked to add to your trip?

    Definitely would still add Kasanka for the bats, sitatunga, the isolation and the environmental variety. Would love to tag Shoebill Island onto this.
    To traverse North and South Luangwa as well would be great.

    Limiting myself to the western part of Zambia I would like to traverse Northern Kafue from Kabenga gate to Moshi - Lufupa - and Hook bridge (min 3 days).



    *Which was the best campsite?

    Pontoon campsite Kasanka. McBrides right up there.

    Mayukuyuku
    and Sikale (Northern Liuwa)



    *Which was the best non-camping option?

    Busanga Plains Camp.

    Water view lodge in Zambezi (overlooking the Floodplains from 50 meters above)
    Understand: this is a town overnight option, self catering with garden access.
    Ignore the nightly power cuts to the town for reasons unknown.


    *Which route was the most interesting or challenging?

    The road and ferries into Liuwa.
    The 5 ferry route from Sitoti - Lealui - Kalabo - Lukulu - Watopa


    *Which route was the most boring or disappointing?

    The southern Spinal Route.
    Access roads to Southern Kafue (Kalomo), then Mwumba to Mc Brides both for reasons of deterioration.
    The spinal road which does not yield any viewings or vistas.


    *What was your most exciting sighting?

    The serval at Busanga. All the sitatunga at Kasanka were also special. In context the wild dogs next to the Nata-Kasani road.

    Spotted Hyenas bathing in Liuwa, migration of the Wildebeest and Zebras

    *Best positive feature(s) of Zambia as a self-drive destination?

    All the water, especially the rivers. The hospitality and friendliness.

    The variety of landscapes, omni presence of water, the vistas from elevations and the hospitality of the Zambians in general.

    Maybe a bit biased coming from a desert like country with people with an attitude.


    *Most negative Zambian feature(s)?

    The black market fuel at Mombwa and the money changers at the borders. The attitude at Konkamoya.

    The currency restrictions and broken ATM's outside main towns, the fact you have to pay fuel in cash and the rip-off of crafty "helpers" on ferries and with fuel supply.



    *Best add-on of your trip.

    Kasanka.
    Extra days in places of preference.


    *Choose your single favourite photograph(s).




    Come all, do not let me down here. Choose your own categories if you like.
    Still sorting pictures, and I think I will not "pollute" the collection of pictures from the participants of the Forum trip.

    Will post them on my FB page a bit later
    Last edited by Kalahari Safari; 2012/11/25 at 04:03 PM.
    Walter Rene Gygax
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  13. #373
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    Default

    Wow Stan, I read and re-read you trip report yesterday and was so speechless that I could only reply today

    Thank you so much. Your spoonfeeding is exactly the info I was looking for. Also your costing for each place is very helpful.

    Fantastic, thanks again
    Christa

    2018 Toyota Fortuner 2.8 GD-6 4x4 AT - sold

    Bushlapa 78 - sold

  14. #374
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    Thanks Lekhubu, I would be very interested to know when you are planning on going and what routes/stopovers you have planned. The report is my version and the way I saw things. I deliberately tried to convey my personal opinions.

    There will be some variation in opinion amongst our group and I am sure they would be able to give you a whole lot more expert advice. Because we all got on so well, it was difficult to find any fault at all and the entire trip was a resounding success.

    Stan.
    Stanley Weakley.
    Toyota Landcruiser 76SW 4,2L diesel.

    “Great journeys are memorable not so much for what you saw, but for where you camped”.

    Trans East Africa 2015/2016 Trip report https://www.4x4community.co.za/forum...-6-SLOW-DONKEY
    OR
    http://www.4x4community.co.za/forum/...e16?highlight= from post 315.

  15. #375
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    Default

    Hi,
    I wasn't part of the forum trip either and didn't visit exactly the same place, but I'll try too...

    *What destination was your personal highlight?
    Busanga Plains, for it’s isolation, numbers and variety of game and excellent birding.
    Unfortunately out of bounds for self drivers, but definately, you awakened my appetite. Mine as well... :-)
    For me it was the wildebeast migration which we hit full blast visitng Liuwa Plains by mid October.
    Hard to say, maybe South Luangwa and around. We loved much Kundalila Falls as well, but not for an overnight.

    *Which activity(s) here contributed the most to your enjoyment?
    The expert guiding on the game drives.
    The efforts by the operator in Liuwa to please the visitors, fire were lightened, firewood provided for free and the shower facilities prepared individually, great effort.
    The day spent at Kawasa eco village near Mfuwe. People there are incredibly kind and one can learn so much...


    *At which destination(s) would you have liked to have stayed longer and why?
    Definitely McBrides. One walk with Chris, none with Charlotte and only one boat drift was not enough- two extra days.
    Mushingashi- one extra day.
    Liuwa Plains- two extra days spent further north perhaps three weeks later would have been great.
    Mc Brides for sure, but also Mayukuyuku and the northern part of Kafue in particular.
    Can agree as the migration was showing progress, the new calves were born at astonishing rates.
    We visited the same location twice within 2 days (water hole in central part of Liuwa) and the presence of young ones really "exploded" in just a day.
    Kafue NPI would have liked to have time to visit McBrides and northern Kafue


    *If pushed for time, which destination(s) would be cut or reduced and why?
    Southern Kafue, to allow more time for the above. Certainly if I go again I would skip most of this. The animals and birds were just not enough.
    Southern part of Kafue was a disappointment, very scattered highlights.
    Positive in this part: Wildlife around southern tip of IT dam
    Nanzhila camp set-up
    Lowlights: Activities compromised by Tsetses, little wildlife spotting and over rated Hippo Bay camp site (in effect it does not even exist anymore but you camp improvised at Konkamoyo)Mutinondo Wilderness? A beautiful spot, but not much to do and no game. Maybe disappointed because of the weather and I was expecting too much?

    *With no time limits what would you most have liked to add to your trip?
    Definitely would still add Kasanka for the bats, sitatunga, the isolation and the environmental variety. Would love to tag Shoebill Island onto this.
    To traverse North and South Luangwa as well would be great.
    Limiting myself to the western part of Zambia I would like to traverse Northern Kafue from Kabenga gate to Moshi - Lufupa - and Hook bridge (min 3 days).
    Shiwa Ngandu, Kapishiya and the Luangwa Valley between NLNP and SLNP

    *Which was the best campsite?
    Pontoon campsite Kasanka. McBrides right up there.
    Mayukuyuku and Sikale (Northern Liuwa)
    Hard to say... Kaingu? Pontoon at Kasanka?

    *Which was the best non-camping option?
    Busanga Plains Camp.
    Water view lodge in Zambezi (overlooking the Floodplains from 50 meters above)
    Understand: this is a town overnight option, self catering with garden access.
    Ignore the nightly power cuts to the town for reasons unknown.
    Didn't try much. No opinion.

    *Which route was the most interesting or challenging?
    The road and ferries into Liuwa.
    The 5 ferry route from Sitoti - Lealui - Kalabo - Lukulu - Watopa
    Leopard road between Lusaka and Lower Zambezi

    *Which route was the most boring or disappointing?
    The southern Spinal Route.
    Access roads to Southern Kafue (Kalomo), then Mwumba to Mc Brides both for reasons of deterioration.
    The spinal road which does not yield any viewings or vistas.
    All tar roads!

    *What was your most exciting sighting?
    The serval at Busanga. All the sitatunga at Kasanka were also special. In context the wild dogs next to the Nata-Kasani road.
    Spotted Hyenas bathing in Liuwa, migration of the Wildebeest and Zebras
    Bats at Kasanka. All these hippos in the Luangwa river.

    *Best positive feature(s) of Zambia as a self-drive destination?
    All the water, especially the rivers. The hospitality and friendliness. Same for me!
    The variety of landscapes, omni presence of water, the vistas from elevations and the hospitality of the Zambians in general.
    Maybe a bit biased coming from a desert like country with people with an attitude.

    *Most negative Zambian feature(s)?
    The black market fuel at Mombwa and the money changers at the borders. The attitude at Konkamoya.
    The currency restrictions and broken ATM's outside main towns, the fact you have to pay fuel in cash and the rip-off of crafty "helpers" on ferries and with fuel supply.
    The corrupted cops in Lusaka.

    *Choose your single favourite photograph(s).
    I'm with translation of the report of our last trip. Should come soon...
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    Pierre
    -------------------------------------------------------------

  16. #376
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    Feb 2008
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    Glencairn, Cape Town
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    Default

    Hi Pierre, Mukambi Plains Camp does have a self drive option for Busanga which can be cheaper than the inclusive package. Worth checking out.

  17. #377
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    Sep 2009
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    Waterfall
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    Default Terryc

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    http://youtu.be/SCHqFNX7bLk



    Sunday 21 - Mukambi to Nanzhila

    We were up at 5am left camp at 6am and had tea/coffee at lodge & finally left Mukambi 6.15am. It was sad to leave ‘home’ after the wonderful stay we had had there – wonderful hospitality. – thanks to Linda, Jacques, Heather, Victor & Purity. We had said our goodbye’s to Tony & Mike the previous evening and we would be the only couple heading for Nanzhila.
    Once again we took the River Road, a sandy track which winds S.E. through bush and the odd clearings with glimpses of the Kafue river on our right. You will have to cross a number of medium & one or two steep gully’s on the way down. We passed Puku Pan & Kaingu for the second time in a week. After Kaingu we continued S.E. for another 43 kms and passed a number of small villages. This track appeared little used by motor vehicles for the first 20 - 30 kms, it was only when we got closer to the D769 that other tire tracks could be seen. It was well worth taking this route.
    Once back on the D769 (Itezhi-Tezhi) road which was once tarred in the distant past but now corrugated & potholed we continued S through the town of Itezhi-Tezhi and on to the Dam Wall. We were somewhat amused or bewildered, just after leaving the town to see large drums rolling down the hill towards us. Some were running free whilst others were being guided by local youngsters. Running from drum to drum they somehow managed to keep the drums out of our path. When we crested the hill we could see a string of drums being pushed up the long slope with 2-3 boys at each drum. Once at the top the boys ran down the hill again to fetch the next drum in relay fashion. We reasoned that the drums were full of fresh water and as it was Sunday this would be repeated weekly. We had a 25min delay at the boom gate on approaching the dam wall due to blasting taking place a little bit further along the dam’s retaining wall.
    We re-entered KNP at the Musa Gate .( Entrance fee to reserve – 712 000kw) and continuing S for approximately 22kms to the Park Headquarters at Ngoma. We were now on the Cordon Road and continued S past the airstrip of Ngoma which will appear on your right. A few kms further and there is sign board indicating Nanzhila to the left. We had already decided to take the Cordon Road route which is a bit longer. This part the Cordon Road had very deep sand, the worst we encountered on the trip, in places new tracks had being formed for 100m to 200m to get past the worst sections. Once again we noted that any tire tracks we could distinguish were many day old so this is not a well used road. Tyre pressures on my Disco were 1.2bar front & 1.5bar rear and despite the load we were carrying, we had no problems. You will eventually come to a road going off to your left and a sign post indicating Nanzhila Lodge 13 Kms.
    We arrived at 03.30pm and were warmly welcomed by staff who introduced themselves. After a liquid refreshment we were shown to the camp site which is about 500m from the main lodge. We were the only ones there and a choice of any of the 3 nicely shaded sites which could easily accommodate two tents & vehicles each. The new ablution block, completed Jan 2012, consists of two nicely laid out bathroom suits each with separate shower & loo and an entrance area with a hand basin and bench seat. Plenty of hot water supplied via a donkey boiler. There is an outside dish washing sink and campfire areas at each site. The camp site also looks out onto a dambo. A little later, “Steady” the camp attendant reappeared to make sure we were comfortable, he had brought over a stack of fire wood and set up and lit a camp fire for us as well as making sure that the donkey was well supplied for the night.
    Supper that night was a magical braai – (Steak, smash & baked beans & olives) We were totally on our own, with just the sounds of the bush around us.

    Monday 22nd

    Lazy morning. We only got up at about 7.45am. Margaret washed some clothes & then we went on a game drive getting back to the lodge at about 2pm.
    We saw mainly bird life, a single Saddlebilled stork, Wattled cranes, Waterbuck, Pukus, Impala and what we thought were 3 African Hawk Eagles. We were to be told later that poachers had been in the area in the previous weeks and the bigger game had moved off into the bush.

    The Camp Web Site: http://www.nanzhila.com

    “Nanzhila Plains Safari Camp is a new development located on the site of the old Nanzhila Rest Camp built in the late 1950's, in the remote and seldom visited southern sector of Kafue National Park. The area is best known for its lush woodlands of Miombo, Zambezi Teak and Mopane, the beautiful plains and the stream that runs through it, after which our lodge is named.”
    The lodge

    “The raised, thatched Boma is situated under the shade of a huge Jackelberry Tree (African Ebony). It houses the lounge and dining area, bar and verandah, with a stunning and elevated view of the dambo, whilst on the adjoining Kjope we have positioned our communal open-air fire place which is the focal point of the evening activities where guests can enjoy a warm fire, a cold drink, good fellowship and the sounds of the African night.”

    There are three en-suite thatched cottages and three en-suite safari tents.

    We had arranged for supper at the lodge that evening and at about 05.30 we sat outside on the adjoining verandah around the open camp fire to enjoy a sundowner with Dean who was managing the camp. We later had very enjoyable well prepared supper that evening.
    Supper:
    Soup & fresh baked rolls
    Chicken, mixed fresh vegetables & salad.
    Cake & custard
    At about midnight- Thunder & lightning!! Fortunately we had put the fly-sheet on the tent because the rain came down in buckets.

    23 October

    Next morning we were up at 5.45am and expected to see a very wet camp site, but due to the sandy nature of the ground the water had all soaked away, but we still had to pack a wet tent. Packing took a bit longer than usual due to previous nights rain, but we were on our way by 07.30am “I think Mike would still have approved of our start time.”
    From Nanzhila we had two choices, the longer Cordon Road route(+/-75kms) or the shorter direct Eastern route(+/- 40kms) to Dundumwezi. The question had been what effect had last nights rain had on the roads? The book say “but do NOT take this road if its wet!”. So we took this route with the idea that if it got too bad we would turn around and try the Cordon Road. Needless to say there were some slippery muddy stages but the sun was out again drying the track. We only had one really steep and very slippery eroded gully with a stream running at the bottom. However with LR, 2nd gear, diff lock & traction control doing its job we were through and up the bank on the other side, Margaret’s white knuckles and all. When we arrived at the border post at Dundumwezi the guards wanted to know if they could let other vehicles go on that road because they believed it was too wet. Leaving Nanzhila we saw 2 hoopoes, squirrels, wildebeest with 3 young ones, a mongoose, saddlebilled stork and an eagle - we think the longcrested eagle.

    From Dundumwezi we headed for Kolomo (74kms) and then Livingstone.(129kms).

    Nanzhila Safari Camp
    Camping x 2 nights @ 75,000pp 300,000
    Dinner x 2 @ 175pp 350,000
    Beers soft drinks & water 80,000
    Total ZK 730,000
    Terry & Margaret
    2004 Disco II XS TD5 A/T Sold - Sad to see it go
    2008 Land Cruiser 76 4.2 Diesel SW

  18. #378
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Gordons Bay as a base - travelling Africa
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    Default

    *What destination was your personal highlight?
    South Luangwa Nsefu Sector

    *Which activity(s) here contributed the most to your enjoyment
    Having a walk with the guides from Buffalo Camp (North Luangwa), crossing the river barefeet, getting next to a buffalo herd while a lion pride kills one of them, no 50 m away.

    *At which destination(s) would you have liked to have stayed longer and why?
    NL, SL, Kafue, Kasanka all brilliant

    *If pushed for time, which destination(s) would be cut or reduced and why?
    Fountain Of Zambezi - a joke

    *With no time limits what would you most have liked to add to your trip? Mc Brides area, Liuwa Plains, Bangweulu, Busanga

    *Which was the best campsite?
    Pontoon Campsite at Kasanka

    *Which was the best non-camping option?
    Buffalo Camp North Luangwa

    *Which route was the most interesting or challenging?
    Road to Lower Zambezi and Leopard Road

    *Which route was the most boring or disappointing?
    None

    *What was your most exciting sighting?
    Sitatunga at Kasanka

    *Best positive feature(s) of Zambia as a self-drive destination?
    Its not as expansive as Serengeti or Masai Mara,
    its not so far and its not so overcrowded.
    But it has a migration and lots of potential.
    In the 80ies, Prof Grzimek counted 190.000 wildebeest at Serengeti.
    Today its millions. Give Liuwa Plains 10 years ....


    *Most negative Zambian feature(s)?
    Can't remember any negative issues
    Last edited by Southerndreams; 2012/11/26 at 11:35 PM.

  19. #379
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Gaborone
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    74
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Tony Weaver View Post
    Hi Pierre, Mukambi Plains Camp does have a self drive option for Busanga which can be cheaper than the inclusive package. Worth checking out.
    Tony,

    I am interested for this but asked Linda some time back and the response was "Niet", meaning only the package was on offer.
    If this has changed we'll have to find out.
    Walter Rene Gygax
    Kalahari Safari
    ORRA Call: WB58 | ICASA ZRF430
    Nissan Patrol GU TB45
    | Nissan Safari GU TD42 | B'rakah 4x4 Trailer
    E34 - 535i for a bit of nostalgia
    E39 - 540i for the open roads

  20. #380
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Glencairn, Cape Town
    Age
    68
    Posts
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    Thanked: 5205

    Default

    A rogues gallery from the Zambian trip. Sadly, Heinz and Belinda weren't with us long enough for me to get portraits.
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    Tony Weaver
    2010 Mitsubishi Pajero Sport 3.2l diesel
    Previously
    1991 Land Rover 110 Hi-Line 3.5l V8; 1968 2.25l Land Rover SII; 1969 2.6l SIIA; 1973 2.25l SIII
    1983 Toyota HiLux 2l 4x4

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