Calling All Standard WJ Owners





Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 25
  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Roodepoort
    Age
    41
    Posts
    581
    Thanked: 28

    Default Calling All Standard WJ Owners

    Morning,

    I would like to ask a favour of all standard WJ owners who may have 5 minutes over this weekend, please? What I would like you to do is help me with some data research! So grab a standard tape measure and measure from the middle of your wheel to the underside of your wheel arch (see photos).

    I measured mine this morning and these are my figures (with the model please be specific e.g. V8/CRD, Up Country, Laredo, Overland etc):
    Year: 2004
    Model: CRD Black Pearl
    Front: 45cm
    Rear:50cm

    Thanks for your help!

    Cheers

    David
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Malpas, UK
    Age
    46
    Posts
    1,406
    Thanked: 30

    Default

    Think you will find all diesels and overlands will be at 18"/18.5" and petrols/limiteds at 17"/17.5" unless the springs have sagged (tend to go on right side first due to torque)

    seach on jeepforum, had been asked on there many times
    Cheers
    Steve Wright

    2007 Grand Cherokee CRD Overland
    2017 Renegade Ltd, SWMABO's ride
    Planet-X London Road x2 & 2011 Cube Analog, powered by chips & beer
    Previous Jeeps- 8 XJs, 3 KJs, 3 WJs, 2 TJ's & an MJ

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Pta, Silverton
    Age
    40
    Posts
    3,850
    Thanked: 72

    Default

    Just lift it already! And bigger tyres...

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Cape Town
    Age
    50
    Posts
    999
    Thanked: 0

    Default

    Year: 2004
    Model: V8 Laredo Up Country
    Front Left: 47cm
    Front Right: 45cm
    Rear Left:47cm
    Rear Right: 45.5cm
    2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo (WG) 4.7L V8 - Oh the joy

    <a href="http://www.fuelly.com/driver/mfour/grand-cherokee" target="_blank"><img src="https://badges.fuelly.com/images/smallsig-metric/118642.png" width="135" height="50" alt="Fuelly" title="Share and compare MPG at Fuelly" border="0" style="border:solid #ccc 1px;padding:4px;background:#fff;"/></a>

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Roodepoort
    Age
    41
    Posts
    581
    Thanked: 28

    Default

    Thanks as always for the responses!


    @Steve from the research I did this week I did come across the reference to 18”/18.5”, the reason for my post was to validate this with “real” Jeep owners as I also found a post on lifting a WJ and they mentioned that the WJ produced between 02-04 came out standard with double cardan joints (see point 5 below), which as far as I can tell is not the case (looks like CV’s at both ends).
    http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f52/how-lift-wj-994/
    The other reason for posting was to determine if I did indeed have any sag in my suspension, my hope was that I had about an inch worth of sag, this would explain why I continually ground out on my transfer case bash plate and if that had been the case I would have quite happily have had coil spacers made to return to standard… sadly this is not the case as I am running at exactly 18 inches in the front and 18.5 inches at the rear which as far as I can tell is factory fresh …. 


    @Bulli, Hahaha! I wish it was that simple, the lift really doesn’t seem to be the problem – I am very keen on the type of rubber lift sold by this company http://www.jgcparts.com/LiftKit2.html – in fact I will probably have them made locally. The problem would appear the consequences post lift, at the very least I will be looking at R4000+ for a new prop shaft, and R4000+ for longer shocks, then I have my biggest problem…. Towing my bike, which is really why I have the Jeep as my previous Ford Focus wasn’t up to the job, unfortunately, unfortunately, my Jeep needs to be like a Swiss army knife of vehicles. It needs to be my daily commuter (currently running about 5000kms every six weeks), tow vehicle to get me to track days in comfort and with ease and when the time comes able to do the odd 4x4 route for example Hennops. Now, the Jeep itself actually does all of this in standard form, however, a major limitation and source of huge frustration is the transfer case cross member/bash plate setup and this is the problem I am trying to understand and find a solution to. At first I did think it was just inexperience, but after chatting to a couple of fellow WJ owners this is a problem for most. From what I have read the spacer route is the best option as opposed to new coils etc as the Jeeps suspension remains in tact….

    @mfour, Thank you for taking the time to measure up!

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Cape Town
    Age
    50
    Posts
    999
    Thanked: 0

    Default

    No problem OW. I'll be doing a 2" coil lift (as soon as the piggy bank is full ) to get rid of the right-hand sagging. A spacer lift will only raise the body, but the sag will remain. Also I want to stiffen the suspension a bit, especially the back. I turned my rear bumper into a sand plough, partly due to bad driving, and partly due to the back end being a bit too bouncy. On road it is fine, but off road where a bit of speed is needed over bumpy terrain, it is too soft. It should also improve on road cornering a bit.
    2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo (WG) 4.7L V8 - Oh the joy

    <a href="http://www.fuelly.com/driver/mfour/grand-cherokee" target="_blank"><img src="https://badges.fuelly.com/images/smallsig-metric/118642.png" width="135" height="50" alt="Fuelly" title="Share and compare MPG at Fuelly" border="0" style="border:solid #ccc 1px;padding:4px;background:#fff;"/></a>

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Walmer, Port Elizabeth
    Age
    58
    Posts
    1,827
    Thanked: 27

    Default

    Hi Guys, this debate has been discussed a number of time here, lately here:

    http://www.4x4community.co.za/forum/...d.php?t=113673

    Sorry I dont have my WJ with me this weekend to check the measurements you requested. I do however have measurements i took some months ago from the ground to the wheel arches, front 680 and rear 690. This was the driverside on an unloaded vehicle with tyre pressure at normal road going pressure. I also noted that the driver side was 10mm lower front and rear.

    I have the Laredo which came out with the upcountry suspension which is 25mm higher than a standard height. Now remember if you are doing a 2" coil lift, the 2" is an increase of 2" from the "standard" height and not the "upcountry" height, in fact you will only gain 1" of lift if you replace the Upcountry coils.

    A suggestion to correct the driver side sagging with a spacer lift, is to swap the springs around from driver side to passenger side, this will help some when the driver side is usually the side that is heaviest as well as the engine torque which tends to compress the driver side susspension when applying a bit of right foot encouragement...

    Alternatively, if you are making your own spacers, make the driver side spacers a bit longer to ultimatly level out your WJ.
    Last edited by MikeS; 2012/09/16 at 04:30 PM.
    ----------------------------
    Jeep Grand Cherokee, Current
    Overland CRD 2009 (Oh hell yes!!)
    Mopar Superchip - 200kw 600Nm, 50mm lift, Dick Cepek rims, rear bash plate, Mopar towhitch.

    ----------------------------
    Jeep Grand Cherokee, SOLD
    Laredo, 2004 - V8 4.7L (Oh yes!!)
    2.5" lift, BulliProp!, 245/75/R17 Wrangler A/T's

    Audi A4, FOR SALE
    Exec. 2001 - 2L (mmmmm!)
    ----------------------------

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Pta, Silverton
    Age
    40
    Posts
    3,850
    Thanked: 72

    Default

    OW, i know that the cross member is a big concern. I know WJ lifts have been discussed alot lately, but a standard WJ is just to low.

    I also need to do a lift quite badly, but the funds is just not available at the moment. What i did do is to fit seconhand JK rims and secondhand 245/75/17 tyres to test if it will work on the WJ, and if it would help with the clearance issue. I went to test it yesterday, it works(no real rubbing issues) and it helps alot with the breakover angle and clearance under the diffs.
    How ever, sould one wish to do the tuff stuff with a WJ you will have to lift atleast 2".
    At the end i will only lift 2" to avoid spending money on track bars and relocation brackets. And i am sure the WJ will go where it should with the bigger tyres and 2" lift. But i will replace shocks and coils, not spacers.
    Andre
    ______________________________________
    2010 2.8 CRD KK Limited (Heksie transport)
    174000km

    2007 3.0 CRD XK Limited
    255000km

    2006 3.0 CRD WH Laredo
    310000km
    Dead

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    CT/PE
    Age
    36
    Posts
    3,853
    Thanked: 1

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by mfour View Post
    No problem OW. I'll be doing a 2" coil lift (as soon as the piggy bank is full ) to get rid of the right-hand sagging. A spacer lift will only raise the body, but the sag will remain. Also I want to stiffen the suspension a bit, especially the back. I turned my rear bumper into a sand plough, partly due to bad driving, and partly due to the back end being a bit too bouncy. On road it is fine, but off road where a bit of speed is needed over bumpy terrain, it is too soft. It should also improve on road cornering a bit.
    Um, I don't want to get you down or anything, but you might find out that replacing the suspension will not remove the "Jeep Lean". I'm not 100% clued up with the WJ's, but a LOT of the XJ's I have seen (including mine) all lean to the right. Even after I replaced the whole suspension with the 4.5"lift, I STILL had a right side that was a centimeter or 2 lower than the left. I've spoken to Mark and Andrew about it and its almost impossible to get rid of. But then the WJ may be different, you never know. Just don't make that your reason for the kit and get annoyed when its still there, we're all in the same boat.
    Nick "Useless/King of Stuck" Sjoberg

    2000 Jeep Cherokee (XJ) 4.0 litre Country
    * Zone 4.5" Lift & Nitro Shocks * D30 sleeved & trussed * D35Trussed & Chromolly shafts * BDS QD's * 31" Maxxis Trepadors * 15x8j Black A-line's * Rugged Ridge TBS * Zone Steering Damper * Cowley Branches, Maniac Freeflow & Cowley Mufflers * Maniac Hood Vents * Maniac Rocksliders* Maniac Recovery Points * Smash and Grab *

    Previous: 2002 Isuzu KB 300 TDi LX 4x4 D/Cab - Phantom

    Disclaimer:
    All comments and actions made by me were made hypothetically and shouldn't be accepted as fact or tried at home.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    CY ek sÍ!
    Age
    57
    Posts
    2,402
    Thanked: 1

    Default

    Ok...Ok..... with a 2 inch lift from Standard:

    Front fom centre of hub 52cm
    Rear from centre of hub 51cm

    Time to think about that 2 inch. It makes a helluva difference!
    It's a J e e p thing...........you would'nt understand!!
    Ek ry met stok-ou Jeeps, want dan dink almal ek's al lankal ryk!!
    Gee vir my 'n Coke......skoon Coke......met 'n dubbel Brannas in asseblief!!

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Bellville
    Age
    61
    Posts
    11,632
    Thanked: 727

    Default

    I have fitted an extra coil seat (the rubber thingy) to my right front coil to get rid of the "Jeep-lean" When empty, RooiTjiep is now about 10 mm higher on the RHS, which is eliminated by my lard-ass as soon as I get in. Engine torque pull the RHS down as soon as you put it in drive, though. It's something you have to live with if you want the comfort provided by softish coil springs.

    I agree with Hennie - that extra 2 inches make a huge difference.
    Last edited by ThysleRoux; 2012/09/16 at 07:48 PM.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    CY ek sÍ!
    Age
    57
    Posts
    2,402
    Thanked: 1

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ThysleRoux View Post
    .

    I agree with Hennie - that extra 2 inches make a huge difference.
    Still need the bigger rubbers Thys!!
    It's a J e e p thing...........you would'nt understand!!
    Ek ry met stok-ou Jeeps, want dan dink almal ek's al lankal ryk!!
    Gee vir my 'n Coke......skoon Coke......met 'n dubbel Brannas in asseblief!!

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Kuilsrivier
    Age
    64
    Posts
    272
    Thanked: 2

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by OceanWanderer View Post
    Thanks as always for the responses!


    From what I have read the spacer route is the best option as opposed to new coils etc as the Jeeps suspension remains in tact….

    @mfour, Thank you for taking the time to measure up!
    ME 2 cents, have just used this product, very satisfied, total costs were just over R1830, bought kit on e-bay for $75.99
    Jeep WJ Laredo V8 2003

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Kuilsrivier
    Age
    64
    Posts
    272
    Thanked: 2

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by HennieZJ View Post
    Ok...Ok..... with a 2 inch lift from Standard:

    Front fom centre of hub 52cm
    Rear from centre of hub 51cm

    Time to think about that 2 inch. It makes a helluva difference!
    Mine with spacers 51cm front and back
    Jeep WJ Laredo V8 2003

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Goodwood
    Age
    47
    Posts
    367
    Thanked: 0

    Default

    OK

    I have the 2004 WJ Overland

    Front 48cm
    Rear 51cm

    I dont have any Spacers in.
    Last edited by Fillistyn; 2012/09/17 at 06:44 AM.
    KTM 950 Adventure
    Opel Zafira 1.9 CDTi Panoramic
    Sold: 2004 GC CRD Overland

  16. #16
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Roodepoort
    Age
    41
    Posts
    581
    Thanked: 28

    Default

    Fillistyn,

    Now your figures are more like it! There is a 3cm (1inch+) difference between the front of our Jeeps!

    I don't suppose any of the lifted Jeep owners would like to measure the angle of their front prop shaft for me?

    Cheers

    David

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Walmer, Port Elizabeth
    Age
    58
    Posts
    1,827
    Thanked: 27

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by OceanWanderer View Post
    Fillistyn,

    Now your figures are more like it! There is a 3cm (1inch+) difference between the front of our Jeeps!

    I don't suppose any of the lifted Jeep owners would like to measure the angle of their front prop shaft for me?

    Cheers

    David
    You can do it yourself David, just jack up your Jeep by 50mm!
    ----------------------------
    Jeep Grand Cherokee, Current
    Overland CRD 2009 (Oh hell yes!!)
    Mopar Superchip - 200kw 600Nm, 50mm lift, Dick Cepek rims, rear bash plate, Mopar towhitch.

    ----------------------------
    Jeep Grand Cherokee, SOLD
    Laredo, 2004 - V8 4.7L (Oh yes!!)
    2.5" lift, BulliProp!, 245/75/R17 Wrangler A/T's

    Audi A4, FOR SALE
    Exec. 2001 - 2L (mmmmm!)
    ----------------------------

  18. #18
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Roodepoort
    Age
    41
    Posts
    581
    Thanked: 28

    Default

    Mike

    Thanks for the suggestion, unfortunately, my driveway lies at an 11 degree angle which makes things like this slightly tricky.

    Anyway, after doing some more research I am now even more confused as to why lifting a WJ breaks CV joints and thus would really appreciate any input from WJ members.

    I began with this video they explain how to measure your drive line and what it all means (www.youtube.com/watch?v=KZ-m9ov3wYM) - I also used this website (http://www.4xshaft.com/) in the technical section > Slopes And Angles sub section, and this one (http://www.jpmagazine.com/techarticl...s_and_ujoints/) to understand the relationship between the pinion shaft, universals and CVs etc. The one thing that they point out is that is part of your drive line goes up and the other part goes down forming an upside down V these angles must be added together to give the operating angle. The front prop shaft/transfer case has such a configuration and when measured give an operating angle of 14* (11* prop shaft + 3* transfer case output shaft). As I understand it we have Rzeppa joints at this end of things and according to Wikipedia they have an operating range of up to 48*... so that means a theoretical angle increase of 34 degrees!!! So I am wondering if it is not the angle that is breaking shafts but the fact that we dont seem to have slip yokes

    So back to my request, I used the school protractor method on http://www.4xshaft.com/ grab your favorite protractor and stick some floss to the center line add a weight (I used a 12mm nut) place the protractor against the shaft and wait for the swing to stop, hey presto you have the angle!

    My angles are as follows:
    Front prop = 11* Down
    Transfer Case Output Coupling = 3* Up
    Rear Proposhaft = 3* Down

    Interestingly the rear prop shaft has universal at the diff end....

    Cheers

    David

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Malpas, UK
    Age
    46
    Posts
    1,406
    Thanked: 30

    Default

    When it comes to front shafts the WJ is pedantic as hell. I am running a double UJ on each end of mine, but if I line up the tc and axle yokes parallel as they should be it vibes bad. Get the axle pinion in line with the shaft it doesn't BUT a prop with a single UJ at the axle end when inline it vibrated!?!? All I will say is do a 2" lift and hope you CV shaft likes it, otherwise you can be chasing vibes on a UJ shaft
    Cheers
    Steve Wright

    2007 Grand Cherokee CRD Overland
    2017 Renegade Ltd, SWMABO's ride
    Planet-X London Road x2 & 2011 Cube Analog, powered by chips & beer
    Previous Jeeps- 8 XJs, 3 KJs, 3 WJs, 2 TJ's & an MJ

  20. #20
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Roodepoort
    Age
    41
    Posts
    581
    Thanked: 28

    Default

    @Steve, this is very interesting as it was mentioned on one of the links I read to solve this problem the pinion was packed with shims to ensure the angles were correct. In essence the the angles of the joints at either end must cancel each other out to ensure no vibrations...

Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. Calling all 4JB1T and 4JG2T owners
    By jelo in forum Isuzu
    Replies: 24
    Last Post: 2012/04/28, 04:56 PM
  2. Cherokee Calling all KJ owners, advice on diesel vs petrol
    By AlbertH in forum Jeep
    Replies: 39
    Last Post: 2012/03/16, 08:28 PM
  3. Calling all 4M40 owners
    By jelo in forum Mitsubishi
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 2012/03/01, 04:01 PM
  4. Calling all 90 (esp 2.8i) owners
    By dph in forum Land Rover
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 2010/10/06, 06:21 AM
  5. 35" Tyres on standard JK rims
    By Joenel in forum Jeep
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 2009/02/23, 04:58 PM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •