Attaching of drawer system





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  1. #1
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    Question Attaching of drawer system

    I have built a drawer system for my vehicle out of angle iron. This system can take 6 ammo boxes and has a slider on top. I pop-riveted this unit onto the load body of my vehicle. The rivets are breaking and I have decided to fix the system with rivnuts. My vehicle loadbody is not rubberised and I have decided to have it rubberised.

    My question now is should I put the rivnuts in first and then have the loadbody rubberised or should I put the rivnuts in after I have had the rubberising done? If I put the rivnuts in before the rubberising is done, will they not be more secure than if put in after rubberising? If put in after rubberising are they long enough to be adequatly secured?

    Any comments are welcome. I have seen that very good advice is given on this forum.
    Ben

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  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Whisky View Post
    I have built a drawer system for my vehicle out of angle iron. This system can take 6 ammo boxes and has a slider on top. I pop-riveted this unit onto the load body of my vehicle. The rivets are breaking and I have decided to fix the system with rivnuts. My vehicle loadbody is not rubberised and I have decided to have it rubberised.

    My question now is should I put the rivnuts in first and then have the loadbody rubberised or should I put the rivnuts in after I have had the rubberising done? If I put the rivnuts in before the rubberising is done, will they not be more secure than if put in after rubberising? If put in after rubberising are they long enough to be adequatly secured?

    Any comments are welcome. I have seen that very good advice is given on this forum.
    Rubberizing will fully cover Rivnuts and you will struggle getting them open again. They should be more than long enough to go through the metal and rubber so I would put it in after rubber. If you give me some time, I can check the exact length of the 6mm Rivnut after crimping. Will let you know.
    Ettienne Myburgh

    Nissan Patrol 4.8GL OME, ARB, Drawers, 2nd Battery
    Challenger Off-road trailer with Howlin Moon tent

  3. #3
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    Thanks Khosaan. The rubberising could be anything between 3 and 5mm. I
    Ben

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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Whisky View Post
    Thanks Khosaan. The rubberising could be anything between 3 and 5mm. I
    You can put the rivnuts in but put bolts into the holes/nuts. So when the rubberriseing is completed, you just cut the rubber round the bolt loose and voala....
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  5. #5
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    Wink

    Please show us some pics of your drawers.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Khosaan View Post
    ...If you give me some time, I can check the exact length of the 6mm Rivnut after crimping. Will let you know.
    Once seated therivnut will be 8mm long with a grip range of max 3mm. This is for 6mm Riv nut. If the Rubberizing is going to be 3 to 5mm thick, you might have to cut some away before seating the Riv nut. This might be a good idea in any case as the rim of the riv nut sticks out about 2mm above the surface and prevents the slide from resting on the metal.

    Hope this helps

    Ettienne
    Ettienne Myburgh

    Nissan Patrol 4.8GL OME, ARB, Drawers, 2nd Battery
    Challenger Off-road trailer with Howlin Moon tent

  7. #7
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    My old LR had too many riv-nuts!
    My experience is that they vibrate a little bit as time goes on, thus getting a little loose. Then the bolt thread gets some mud or rust. If you try and take out the bolt after that - the rivnut just turns in the hole - you cant drill them out, you cant break the bolt off - I had to punch out the whole riv-nut with a hammer, leaving a badly dented firewall with a huge holes in it! What I did was to weld a nut onto a small metal plate. I then used 4 pop rivets to hold the plate in place - on the other side if possible so that the bolt holds the plate to the metal. The pop rivets only prevent the plate from turning while you tighten the bolt. Otherwise consider just putting a bolt all the way through and get someone to climb underneath and hold the nut (Use a nylock nut) while you tighten.

    PS - I am busy designing my own roller draw system - would be interested to see some photos of yours!!

  8. #8
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    Thanks Khosaan,

    I have given it some thought and I will have to secure the rivnuts after the rubberising has been done. After rubberising the slider will not be on the same position as before the rubberising due to the rubberising being 3-5mm thick. It will be 3mm of the hole of the nut.

    I will countersink the rivnut as you say. Thank you for the info.

    Yes your advice has helped.

    Benhur, as soon as I have completed the task I will post some photos.

    Ben.
    Ben

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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alouette View Post
    My old LR had too many riv-nuts!
    My experience is that they vibrate a little bit as time goes on, thus getting a little loose. Then the bolt thread gets some mud or rust. If you try and take out the bolt after that - the rivnut just turns in the hole - you cant drill them out, you cant break the bolt off - I had to punch out the whole riv-nut with a hammer, leaving a badly dented firewall with a huge holes in it! What I did was to weld a nut onto a small metal plate. I then used 4 pop rivets to hold the plate in place - on the other side if possible so that the bolt holds the plate to the metal. The pop rivets only prevent the plate from turning while you tighten the bolt. Otherwise consider just putting a bolt all the way through and get someone to climb underneath and hold the nut (Use a nylock nut) while you tighten.

    PS - I am busy designing my own roller draw system - would be interested to see some photos of yours!!
    Thanks Alouette,

    This is something to consider. As you say if the bolt rusts inside the nut there is noway you would get it out!! So maybe I must reconsider and secure it with bolt and nut. Are there any other views from other readers.

    Ben
    Ben

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  10. #10
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    There is another way.

    You get a 6mm rivet. The only problem is that a hand riveter cant break the nail. Have to use an air riveter. At Adendorfs they are about R300. Those rivets are strong and I use them a lot. 6mm drill if you want them out.
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  11. #11
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    We use 6mm rivets in our factory - as you say they are strong.
    HOWEVER - certain applications require something stronger - a monobolt. It works like a rivet but it is steel not aluminum. We use the same air-riveter that you use for the 6mm pops to pull the monobolts.

    Whisky - if you are going to buy a air-riveter consider using the monobolts - I doubt that you will have problems - with a bit more effort they will drill out like a pop-rivet.

  12. #12
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    My rivnuts are also steel. Get them from Bulhof.

    My rivnut tool can handle up to 10mm bolts.
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  13. #13
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    Good morning people,

    Thank you for all the information. It is a real help. I now know the pros and cons of rivnuts!! Henris, I wil only be using 6 securing pionts. To purchase a tool for only 6 nuts is not worth it. I will have the load body rubberised and will then secure the slider with 6, 6mm bolts and nuts. I think it will be the easist to secure and remove when needed to.

    This forum is great. If there is still someone whom has read this thread and has some more ideas on this topic lets hear from you. We can all benifit.

    Thank you,


    Ben
    Ben

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  14. #14
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    Are these bigger rivnuts strong enough to hold a fully loaded drawer system and fridge slide, in the back of my pajero? My plan is to have this system completely removable when not in use and so the fixing points should be flush and coverable by the standard carpets. Or will a monobolt be necessary as Alouette suggested?
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  15. #15
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    SimonB

    The monobolt I discussed is basically a steel pop-rivet. If you want to have your draw removable I would suggest you use a bolt and nut.
    I am busy designing my own draw system. I will just use ordinary bolts and nuts to bolt it down - It is going to be the most cheap and easy way of doing it.

  16. #16
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    Couple of 8mm rivnuts should do the trick. But don't be scimpy
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  17. #17
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    I would have used some sort of reinforcement under the sheet steel, even a rectangular strip, fastened with two rivnuts, just to ensure that the rivnuts don't tear out.

  18. #18
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    Guys

    My canopy (a Radical top) was secured with special nuts that were secured on the edge of the load bin. These nuts worked on a similar principal than the rivnut accept that they are actually secured on the blind side by another nut again which makes it mush stronger than a rivnut. The advantage is that you do not need a special tool to install them but the disadvantage is that you need access to the blind side.

    So Whisky in your case I presume that you will have access to the blind side, since you are thinking of using normal bolts and nuts, so if you install these things once you would not have to creep in under your vehicle every time you want to take the system out. Give Radical tops a call they are in Kempton Park.

    When I bought my Van one of these nuts were missing and they sold me one over the telephone and mailed it to me
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  19. #19
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    Benny

    Not a bad idea, but as you say, you need access to the blind side. As far as it goes for me I haven't been underneath to have a good look to see what access I have around the sides of the fuel tank etc.
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