Vleesbaai : Viscous fan hits radiator, now electric fan





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  1. #1
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    Default Vleesbaai : Viscous fan hits radiator, now electric fan

    Vleesbaai : Viscous fan hits radiator, now electric fan
    About three weeks ago I finally fitted the spacers (40mm front and 50mm at the back) to my Kia Sportage(2002).
    With confidence I convinced my brother in law with his V6 Tuna, to join me to Vleesbaai. So off we went to Vleesbaai on 27/12/2011 (Tuesday). We were a group of 18 vehicles, all excited. After the necessary paperwork signed, tyres deflated and a briefing by the guide, we headed for the dunes.
    Despite the lift, I could feel that the Kia was struggling a bit with the standard tyres(205/70/R15), but managed to overcome the first few “steep” dunes. I imagine that the track was enjoyed by a huge number of 4x4’s over the past few weeks. At about the 3rd or 4th “obstacle” with a reasonable amount of momentum the Kia approached the Dune. I suddenly heard a “hissing” sound (amper soos my vrou se stoompot wat stoom afblaas) and realised that something is wrong. Half way up the dune I took the “escape route” and stopped(actually I got stuck, not having momentum any more). It looked like a steam train that just stopped at a station releasing all its steam. ….
    At first it only looked like the viscous blade got stuck in the cowling. With a knife, a peace of the plastic was cut out releasing the blade to freely turn. Water was dripping fast and I decided to call it the day. Stocked with about 7liters extra , and with the help of a friendly bloke in his Toyota bakkie we got the Kia going again. I slowly headed back to the starting point with lots of stops in between and from there was towed 60km back home.
    The next day we took out the radiator and determined that the blade somehow got to close and damaged the radiator. The radiator is made from aluminium and an attempted to fix it with epoxy glue was not a long term solution. I decided to fit a new Radiator (from Silverton Radiators in George).
    I was still “liking” my wounds and with my ego buried somewhere in the dunes, I decided to replace the viscous fan with an electric one. I started off by installing a 400mm fan. After driving up and down the streets the Kia got to hot. I have all the electrics in place and even a LED light in the cockpit to see when the fan is on. The thermo switch is fitted in the bottom pipe with a t-peace made by Silverton Radiators. Finally I connected the aircon fan and fitted a third fan next to it to help with the cooling. After a new radiator, 3 electrict fans and a lot of …. well everything …. The Kia is running smoothly with the temp gage staying just below the half way mark under any driving condition.
    I still need to move the 400m fan a bit just to ensure maximum clearance between the engine and the fan.
    We checked the engine mountings and they seem to be ok.
    At the end I saw that the very thin bash plate below the radiator was bent upwards forcing the radiator “upwards” which probably let to the viscous blade( due to engine movement), hitting the radiator. I might be wrong. But just take note of what might happen.
    I took out the plate, modified it a bit and replaced it , making sure that it does not touch the radiator. Will sometime in the future replace it with a proper bush plate.
    Now I must get back up that horse and try Vleesbaai again….
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  2. #2
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    Default

    Hi Albri
    Nice job, how much did Silverton charge for the `T ` piece and which thermo switch did you use.I am also looking into doing this conversion and can you feel any power increase and consumption decrease ?I see there is a lot of open radiator space around the fan and think you are loosing quite a bit of cooling capacity due to there being no cowling. When the fan runs it is only pulling air across the fan section in contact with the radiator and not the whole radiator and a cowling should make quite a big difference.

    Andrew

  3. #3
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    I've got a very similar setup on a 2001 Sportage.
    Extra 10" (25 cm) electric fan next to the original aircon fan.
    16" (40 cm) electric fan mounted on the radiator.

    The 16" fan only comes on occasionally and then only for a few seconds.
    I don't currently use the extra 10" fan at all and consider it a fallback in case the 16" fan dies.

    If your fan(s) are running a lot, it may be that either your radiator is clogged or your temp switch is set too low.

  4. #4
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    This is how my 16" fan was installed. Make sure you check which direction the fan is turning under power.
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    Mounting was done by drilling thru the shroud and bolt it in place.
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    I found a jeep 3 row all metal radiator about the same size as my sportage's to replace my leaking one. I CAREFULLY cut the shielding off the outside and welded the mounting brackets on the sides from the old radiator. The inlet and outlet are a little smaller but found some radiator hose that was 2 different sizes on the ends and got everything to work pretty good.
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    Another thing you can do is remove the fan pulley. It isn't necessary and you can just run a shorter belt.
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    I now run a 16" on the front and removed the small one for the AC that died. I have wired the fans with a SPAL FAN-PWM. The AC is extremely cold in heavy traffic and I've never overheated.
    I use Pro-Comp fans that move about 2500cfm each.
    96 4 door Sportage. 4 door is lifted 4" UPYOURKIA front lift kit and 3" body lift. 265 75 16 Treadwright MAD DOG tires, twin 16" electric fans, SPAL_PWM. 1995 SOHC Transmission and Transfer case. Kevlar Clutch. Set up for hunting.
    2000 2 door Sportage daily driver.

  5. #5
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    @lifted: Did you use the Procomp 16'' fan kit?

    Similar to this? http://www.wantitall.co.za/PROCOMP-S...38__B004MNH7DY

    The thermostat is a probe that you stick into the radiator fins. How effective is this?

    Product Features


    • 12 Volt High Performance Reversible Electric Cooling Fan
    • Great for radiators, oil cooler, transmission coolers & more!
    • Blades and polarity of the wiring can be reversed and it becomes a pusher fan.
    • Universal application to fit all makes and models, cars and trucks
    • 2500 CFM Rating
    (back to top)
    Product Description


    Kit Includes: * 16 Inch Fan (w/ mounting feet) * Mounting Tie Strap Kit * Thermostat Fan Controller Great for Radiators, Oil Coolers,&Transmission Cooler, Condenser etc. * 12v Reversible Electrical Cooling Fans are ideal for OEM or High Performance applications. * Configured as a puller from the factory, it mounts on the inside and pulls the air through the radiator. * Blades and polarity of the wiring can be reversed and it becomes a pusher * Universal fit for Cars, Trucks, Hot Rods, Street Rod etc. Chevy Ford Pontiac Olds Chrysler. * Includes mounting tabs. * 2500 CFM Rating Measurements: * Thickness- 1 1/2" at edge, 3" at center * Height- 16" * Width- 17" Derale Electric Thermo Fan Controller Kit. * Thermostat is a Single Stage Controller, push-in radiator fin probe. * Activates at 180'F and shuts off at 170'F. * Will work on any 12 volt fan. * Relay is 30/40 amp, heavy duty for fans that draw over 10 amps. * Maximum capacity is 25 amps. * A/C override circuit included. * Designed for single and dual fan setups. This kit includes thermostat probe switch, relay w/ wiring&fuse, wire hardware and relay holder screw, installation booklet with diagram

    Herman Bellville
    2005 Kia Sorento EX 2.5diesel Coil Lift Kit, Body Lit Kit, 4mm Bash Plate, Rock Sliders, Wheel Spacers.

  6. #6
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    No,
    I use a SPAL FAN-PWM with a SPAL temp sender. http://www.spalusa.com/store/Main.aspx?html=pwmv3

    What I would use for a switch is a radiator fan switch/sensor with an on @ 98C and off @90C and a 40 amp relay. Remove the lower thermostat housing off the motor, drill out and tap the empty boss next to the temp gauge sender and screw the sender in there. Hook it up to the relay and hook the fan up to the relay. Make sure the + wire for the coil is only hot with KEY ON.

    Hope this helps.
    96 4 door Sportage. 4 door is lifted 4" UPYOURKIA front lift kit and 3" body lift. 265 75 16 Treadwright MAD DOG tires, twin 16" electric fans, SPAL_PWM. 1995 SOHC Transmission and Transfer case. Kevlar Clutch. Set up for hunting.
    2000 2 door Sportage daily driver.

  7. #7
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    Default Vleesbaai Dune route

    On another note re Vleesbaai..

    I did this route for the 2nd time this holiday and i must say i was a bit dissapointed.

    They usually take a group of 12 4x4's, but to my dissapointment we had 18 cars on the route. We were rushed through the course with quick stops at the playpits where only 4 or 5 had the time to play. To my amazement i found out that another group were folowing us and that we had to hurry up. Most of the 'new' track were easy enought for my wifes Atos.

    The last long dune were the only grade 3 challenge were you had to wait for ages to have a go. I think the fee of R300 for this course were a rip off and wont be doing the Vleesbaai route again. Seems like it became a case of trying to make as much money as possible rather that giving drivers what they paid for.

  8. #8
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    Andrew:
    • Silverton charged me R150 for the T piece. (I ordered it the morning and they delivered it around lunch time, very good service.) ;
    • Here is a layout of items I bought at Midas:
      • Pilot light blue (IAC73 R19.79;
      • 4 point Relay (C4001S-BP) R22.62;
      • 30 AMP Plug Fuse (FP30-BP) R7.48;
      • Fuse Plug Holder (FH5-BP) R14.32;
      • Thermo Switch (Audi/VW/Fiat FS150) R103.74


      • SWITCHING TEMPERATURE - CIRCUIT 1 LOWER (DEGREES CELCIUS): 87


      • SWITCHING TEMPERATURE - CIRCUIT 1 UPPER (DEGREES CELCIUS): 92


    • I can feel a difference in power, espessialy in town during midday(the time the viscous fan usually worked at its “hardest”)
    • I still have to refull to be able to calculate the consumption;
    • I agree that a cowling of some sort or some type of “cover” will help with the air flow, like the one of lifted96.
    Here are a few additional fotos.
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  9. #9
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    I forgot to mention that the fan is a RF16 (400mm) fan unit for R373.50

    We went to Gouritsrivier over the past weekend and the setup(fan and radiator) worked great.

  10. #10
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    Using a good cowling can increase the fan's efficiency by up to 20%.
    Patrol TB48
    Patrol TD42T
    Ex-4x4-partners:
    105 Cruiser
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  11. #11
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    Albri, just for interest sake, my fan is sitting flush with the radiator. I see yours have a gap of about 10mm. Mayby that is why your vehicle got hot?
    Hendrik
    2.5HP Triton

  12. #12
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    Hendrik, you and Kiri are both right. I agree that the lack of a cowling and the 10mm gap resulted in the setup not operating to its optimum capacity. The blades of the electric fan felt a bit to “soft” and my way of thinking was that under load with hot temperatures the blades could bent a bit possibly touching the radiator. That’s why the fan is not flush to the radiator. After my Vleesbaai story I decided that I don’t want anything to touch or possibly touch the radiator. (Over cautious, I know)
    I am not sure if I can get my old cowling back(might be thrown away by know) , and if not, if I decide to make a cowling what suggestions do you have.

  13. #13
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    Albi, Have a piece of aluminium folded and bolt it onto the existing holes. Important to seal between the cowling and the radiator, every bit helps. The cowling does not need to be tapering away from the radiator (if it does, even better). The larger the distance between fans and radiator the better. Don't let the cowling obstruct part of the radiator core.
    Patrol TB48
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    105 Cruiser
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  14. #14
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    Kiri, thank you for your reply. It makes senses, for now I am going to use it as is(1 fan pulling and 2 fans blowing air). Who knows, before long I am sure that I will start sourcing the material required. Regards

  15. #15
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    @Albri. Was the tee piece an off the shelf part or did they make it up for you?

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Balerit View Post
    @Albri. Was the tee piece an off the shelf part or did they make it up for you?
    Hi Balerit
    The T Piece was not an off the shelf part. They made it for me.
    I am using this setup for almost 2 years now.
    Since then:
    • I have connected a small led switch(on/off) in the car to be able to switch it off during water crossings(Do NOT forget to switch it back on again);

    • The aircon fan was initially also connected to the other fans installed, but that lead to, too much pressure building up in the aircon radiator, (no fan to cool the aircon radiator, only on when the other fans are in operation)so I reconnected it back to the aircon setup. We just came back from Baviaans and had no problems with the remaining 2 fans not able to cope with the cooling of the radiator of the car (and the aircon worked very good);

    • I still have to make up some sort of cowling;

    • After river crossings the fans kept on turning even if the temperature was way below the normal operating temperature. At first I thought it was a faulty relay and replaced that, but that did not resolve the matter. What I noticed was when the T-piece with its thermo switch is dry again it worked fine again. Can it be that the “cold water” during water crossings, is affecting the thermo switch? Or is it that obvious that I just have to seal the wire connections on the thermo switch with some sort of silicone?

    Regards

    2001 Pajero GLS 3.5 V6

  17. #17
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    Thumbs up Fan switch

    Hi Albri, thanks for the reply, ja I'd say the water is bridging the thermo switch causing the fan to run. Good tip about fan switch.

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