Disco 1 300tdi oil usage

Hello everyone

Need some advice. The car is using more and more oil. Did Khutse to Piper with no oil used and the from there I had to add 500ml at Deception camp. Drove 700km home and had to add oil again. Car doesn’t smoke more than just accelerating and cold start. Head gasket was done 2000km ago but the “reputable” workshop did not set the valves correctly and brushed me off. Had it set by someone else.

Car did not use much oil before the head gasket went.

Could it be the rings? I have a little bit of blowback but the cap is not blown off.
I use Ravenol 15W40 mineral oil.

Mine generally doesn't use oil but when heavily loaded and pushing it a bit, I tend to see an increase in oil consumption.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by jfh

Mine generally doesn't use oil but when heavily loaded and pushing it a bit, I tend to see an increase in oil consumption.

---

So unloaded no issues? Come to think of it I did have a bit of above my average usage before the trip as well.

On our defender it was the rear crank seal causing high oil usage. Ours gradually started using more oil and I started thinking it's burning it up because there was no apparent leak that I could see. Eventually it was using 500ml+ oil per 400km with no excess smoke or anything. And then it started covering the rear door and windows in oil mist/spray on the open road. After replacing it the defender hardly uses any oil

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Eighty2_ZA

On our defender it was the rear crank seal causing high oil usage. Ours gradually started using more oil and I started thinking it's burning it up because there was no apparent leak that I could see. Eventually it was using 500ml+ oil per 400km with no excess smoke or anything. And then it started covering the rear door and windows in oil mist/spray on the open road. After replacing it the defender hardly uses any oil

---

Thank you for this. I do have a leak as well in my rear crank seal but its not leaving puddles under the car.

Had a check today and there was quite a bit of oil in the intake pipe to the turbo (something like that).

Kudos

On the driver side of the motor - about in the middle is a black cylinder - called an oil separator

the bottom has a pipe that drains back into the sump and the other one goes around the back to connect to the intake pipe you mentioned

take that oil seperator out , disconnect the pipes and give it a good clean with paraffin or similar

That can get all gooey and block up a bit

make SURE that the black cylinder has not even a smell of whatever you use to clean it with before you put it back

Then also clean that top pipe that connects to the intake pipe as well - so any residual oil in it doesnt cloud your judgement going forward

Make EXTRA EXTRA sure that there isnt a wiff of whatever you used to clean that with else you will see 4 00 gazillion rpm on that motor

Then that oil residue could have been there for ages - the intake stuff I mean

While you at it pull the bottom pipe as well just to make sure it isnt blocked or crimped where it joins the block / sump

Turbo might be on the way out.
Take off pipe from airbox to turbo and inspect impeller with phone camera for wear, and wiggle turbo shaft side to side and in and out looking for looseness
Also look at the pipe you took off. Lots of oil in there indicates it's from the breather indicating rings. A little oil (there will always be some) indicates a good motor

If turbo, just do a cheap cartridge. Under 2k

Thanks a lot for the advice!! Appreciate it. Will have a look at it for sure

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by RossJ

Kudos

On the driver side of the motor - about in the middle is a black cylinder - called an oil separator

the bottom has a pipe that drains back into the sump and the other one goes around the back to connect to the intake pipe you mentioned

take that oil seperator out , disconnect the pipes and give it a good clean with paraffin or similar

That can get all gooey and block up a bit

make SURE that the black cylinder has not even a smell of whatever you use to clean it with before you put it back

Then also clean that top pipe that connects to the intake pipe as well - so any residual oil in it doesnt cloud your judgement going forward

Make EXTRA EXTRA sure that there isnt a wiff of whatever you used to clean that with else you will see 4 00 gazillion rpm on that motor

Then that oil residue could have been there for ages - the intake stuff I mean

While you at it pull the bottom pipe as well just to make sure it isnt blocked or crimped where it joins the block / sump

---

So I replaced the Syclone breather, cleaned the pipe that runs down into the engine block. The pipe that runs into the intake spits oil out while running. Just to see if there is a blockage I blew down the pipe running into the engine block and I could hear the bubbles. Isn't the oil supposed to be running back into the sump from where it enters the engine block again? It seems to be gathered where it enters the engine block. I can only see black smoke when accelerating and no white or blue smoke. I cannot see an oil leak anywhere. But tested car again and oil was gone after 400km of highway driving.

Turbo was reconned 3 weeks ago.

So you're getting oil coming out of the positive crankcase vent valve pipe to the inlet manifold? And you're still using oil?

This is caused by excessive crank pressure. This is caused by bad rings or glazed cylinders. The reworked head has increased this effect as you now have more compression.

Sorry.

"I blew down the pipe running into the engine block and I could hear the bubbles"

I have never tried this but the oil should drain freely back into the sump

This is the pipe that comes from the bottom of the cyclone into the block ?

I would test and pour some oil down that pipe using a funnel or something and it should never fill that pipe at all as it should drain very fast

That pipe feeds into a "nipple" attachment that goes into the block and it is a ### one to seat properly as it is right next to the brake vacuum pumps housing so I wonder if it isn't kinked there maybe

the sump oil level at full isn't anywhere near that height for you to hear bubbles at all

If that nipple is blocked then that would explain the oil coming out into the turbo air inlet pipe like you said as it cant drain fast enough into the sump

As they say - "while you down there"

Maybe take the other breather pipe off and make sure all ok and you can blow down it as well. That's the one that also goes into the rocker cover and is closer to the front of the motor

I hope it's something small and stupid

There is one last test if the above is all negative

Disconnect the pipe from the bottom of the cyclone

Connect another pipe from the bottom of the cyclone and run it into say an empty coke bottle - make sure this pipe runs downhill only from the bottom of the cyclone

the pipe that is now disconnected from the bottom of the cyclone will indicate sump pressure

the other pipe draining into the coke bottle will tell us if the cyclone is working - Having watched some videos on the cyclone I am expecting a fair amount of oil to be flowing into the coke bottle so not like drip drip only

this is a link to what the cyclone looks like inside

https://www.lrukforums.com/attachmen...e_3-jpg.15161/

This is what it's supposed to do if you don't have excessive crankcase pressure.

https://youtu.be/rhmYRqUSYBA

Update

First of all thank you to everybody taking the time to share their knowledge with me and see me through this.

Due to my very limited knowledge I had to take the car in (again) to a company that knows what to do.

They did find a blocked breather pipe, fixed it and the oil usage was better but still really bad. Now it is opening the engine to see if an oil ring maybe didn't break. So the saga continues.
Should I maybe just overhaul the engine? Will this definitely fix the problem?

There is overhaul and then there's overhaul.

Doing it properly is expensive but maybe you won't need to replace stuff like pistons, oil pump and the head.
If you go this route make sure that the company knows the 300Tdi.

They must measure up everything:
Pistons
Sleeves
Crank
Oil pump
Piston protrusion

After that you will know how expensive it will be.

You can also check:
Injection pump
Injectors
Glow plugs

If you are lucky it will only be:
Rings
Bearings
Seals ( the rear crank seal must be done correctly)

While the engine is out you can also replace the clutch.

As I said it could become very expensive.

Has a compression test been done?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Kudus

Now it is opening the engine to see if an oil ring maybe didn't break. So the saga continues.
Should I maybe just overhaul the engine? Will this definitely fix the problem?

---

A overhaul done PROPERLY should return to engine close to factory spec. But there are workshops and there are workshops.........

While the 300TDi is as basic a turbo-diesel as you can find, bad rebuild techniques and not following the FACTORY WORKSHOP REBUILD SPECS will mean a waste of money and the return to the same if not worse operation in a short time.

I would RE-SLEEVE not REBORE if a simple hone cannot be done

These guys offer good rebuild parts:

https://www.turnerengineering.co.uk/...s-c102x3005632

Do NOT be tempted to use Bearmach.......

EDIT: Listen to jfh...........

I concur with resleeving.

Kudos

Which of the breather pipes was it ?

I would follow the oil usage fault finding from scratch again to find where the oil is being used after the breather pipe find / fix

You get indies ( good ones that care) and you get indies who see an inexperienced person coming from a mile away and see ronts

If it was me I would start from scratch in the fault finding process that you have allready maybe learnt from a bit

these are simple engines to fault find on

As mentioned above one persons rebuild is another person's repair job

If it is an oil ring or bad compression by just taking the exhaust outlet off you should be able to identify which cylinder it is

On compression tests I had a known indie on this forum - not active anymore on the forum - tell me I had half of the compression that I should have and thats why it wouldnt start

was he lying or is the tools he used rubbish I dont know- the former is my gut feel

turned out he got the injection pump timing out

Ja, maybe the first step is to wash the whole engine and gearbox.

Go for a short drive and see if you can find a leak.

I’ll just tell you rather where the car is at the moment then you can tell me if they would do a good job or not and whether they care enough. It is at LRXtreme. Org is involved with my car from what I gather.

So they will open up and see what is wrong and give me a quote.
Would like your opinions on the quote as soon as I get it please.

No compression test was done. I wondered why not??

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Kudus

I’ll just tell you rather where the car is at the moment then you can tell me if they would do a good job or not and whether they care enough. It is at LRXtreme. Org is involved with my car from what I gather.

So they will open up and see what is wrong and give me a quote.
Would like your opinions on the quote as soon as I get it please.

No compression test was done. I wondered why not??

---

Should be fine. LRXtreme is fairly competent. A compression test would not offer much info beyond confirming what they already suspect: worn rings or a worn cylinder.........

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by jelo

Should be fine. LRXtreme is fairly competent. A compression test would not offer much info beyond confirming what they already suspect: worn rings or a worn cylinder.........

---

That word “fairly” concerns me. Would’ve preferred to hear “extremely”. I’m telling you guys, this has been a journey.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Kudus

That word “fairly” concerns me. Would’ve preferred to hear “extremely”. I’m telling you guys, this has been a journey.

---

No independent workshop is perfect...........but they have a decent reputation.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by jelo

No independent workshop is perfect...........but they have a decent reputation.

---

Ok, I understand. Thanks for explaining

Can somebody educate me please. I’m just getting all my ducks in a row before I het the news from the technicians.

Why do we want to re-sleeve rather than rebore?

Although the maintenance manual states that there are 2 oversize sized pistons available, you can only get the 20 thou (maximum) pistons size for sale.

That means you will have to bore the original sleeves maximum if it's out of tolerance.
You will gain some power but might have a heat problem if the cooling system is compromised.

It's just preference.
With both you will have to do machining.

The sleeves should be cheaper than the new pistons.

Have the con rods crack tested, I know of 3 that pushed through the block, but it's rather rare.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by jfh

Although the maintenance manual states that there are 2 oversize sized pistons available, you can only get the 20 thou (maximum) pistons size for sale.

That means you will have to bore the original sleeves maximum if it's out of tolerance.
You will gain some power but might have a heat problem if the cooling system is compromised.

It's just preference.
With both you will have to do machining.

The sleeves should be cheaper than the new pistons.

Have the con rods crack tested, I know of 3 that pushed through the block, but it's rather rare.

---

Thank you for explaining. Really appreciate it

Just to stir a little. The is a kit that takes it to 2.8 ltr.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Sam vd Merwe

Just to stir a little. The is a kit that takes it to 2.8 ltr.

---

https://www.mdengineering.co.uk/inte...-2-8l-300-tdi/

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Sam vd Merwe

Just to stir a little. The is a kit that takes it to 2.8 ltr.

---

I know of one or two blokes that has both and their opinion is a 300Tdi with a uprated turbo is cheaper for the same performance.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Kudus

Can somebody educate me please. I’m just getting all my ducks in a row before I het the news from the technicians.

Why do we want to re-sleeve rather than rebore?

---

when I did mine I re board, and went 10 tho KS Pistons to me if sleeves were ok and could bore then that way I went
one thing very very important when rebuilding the 300TDi is check bearing with plastique guage don’t trust engineering shops they can make mistakes, and also check piston protrusion for the correct head gasket

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by clivemd

when I did mine I re board, and went 10 tho KS Pistons to me if sleeves were ok and could bore then that way I went
one thing very very important when rebuilding the 300TDi is check bearing with plastique guage don’t trust engineering shops they can make mistakes, and also check piston protrusion for the correct head gasket

---

You were very lucky to get 10thou.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by jfh

You were very lucky to get 10thou.

---

sorry you right was 20 tho was thinking of another engine did

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by jfh

Although the maintenance manual states that there are 2 oversize sized pistons available, you can only get the 20 thou (maximum) pistons size for sale.

That means you will have to bore the original sleeves maximum if it's out of tolerance.
You will gain some power but might have a heat problem if the cooling system is compromised.

It's just preference.
With both you will have to do machining.

The sleeves should be cheaper than the new pistons.

Have the con rods crack tested, I know of 3 that pushed through the block, but it's rather rare.

---

To add to this and also clivemd's post later down the thread.

The RAVE states there are two oversizes: first oversize is 10 thou, second oversize is 20 thou. However, to the best of my knowledge, KS (and other aftermarket) pistons are available in standard, 20 thou and 40 thou (you will see this on Turner's website if you doubt). So it seems you can bore out to 40 thou but that's not what RAVE says, so it's not up to spec.

Hence also be EXTREMELY careful when giving instructions to an engineering shop about this. If you use the RAVE's measurements for first oversize and then buy (alleged) first-oversize KS pistons you will have bored out to 10 thou and fitted 20 thou pistons. Big problem.

As clivemd says, check all measurements RELATIVE to each other, not just to the specs.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by jfh

Although the maintenance manual states that there are 2 oversize sized pistons available, you can only get the 20 thou (maximum) pistons size for sale.

That means you will have to bore the original sleeves maximum if it's out of tolerance.
You will gain some power but might have a heat problem if the cooling system is compromised.

It's just preference.
With both you will have to do machining.

The sleeves should be cheaper than the new pistons.

Have the con rods crack tested, I know of 3 that pushed through the block, but it's rather rare.

---

I'm in danger of hijacking a thread here, but perhaps it's of relevance to the OP in deciding whether to rebore or resleeve.

Can you explain why 20 thou oversize is such an issue in terms of possible overheating? I've heard many experienced mechanics say the same as you (jfh). I remember doing the calculation at the time, and I've just done it again to refresh my memory. Going up to 20 thou oversize is about a 2% increase in displacement, so if it was a 2.5 litre it's now a 2.55 litre engine. Surely this would be only a couple of kW extra if anything - is that really enough to cause overheating?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by antvz

I'm in danger of hijacking a thread here, but perhaps it's of relevance to the OP in deciding whether to rebore or resleeve.

Can you explain why 20 thou oversize is such an issue in terms of possible overheating? I've heard many experienced mechanics say the same as you (jfh). I remember doing the calculation at the time, and I've just done it again to refresh my memory. Going up to 20 thou oversize is about a 2% increase in displacement, so if it was a 2.5 litre it's now a 2.55 litre engine. Surely this would be only a couple of kW extra if anything - is that really enough to cause overheating?

---

It not the 2 percent in displacement that it the bugger. The sleeve wall is much thinner and will heat up quickly. If the cooling system is not 100 percent it will run hotter.

I'm always playing save when it comes to engine rebuilding.

On some engines if you loose 10% of the cooling system's efficiency it will overheat even on standard displacement.
That little increase in displacement also increases the heat.

As I said earlier this is a preference thing.
If I had to rebuild my 300Tdi I will resleeve.

Thank you all. It helps to read your advice. I must add that its all a bit overwhelming reading the technical terms but I am at least understanding the theory of what you are saying.

only problem is I will not be checking this or checking that and am in the unfortunate position to have to trust the guys working on it to check. I don’t have the tools, knowledge or means (distance from where I am to where they are) to check all these things. Or can I ask for a report?

If they get it wrong I am properly screwed. Will probably light a mach and say goodbye if they do.

So from what you all are saying is if needs be I’ll just play it safe and ask for re-sleeve? Less chance of getting it wrong.

Update

They will give me a report tomorrow but I just want to be ready. So far it looks like that the engine was re-bored to 20thou already and it has deep grooves in the cylinder.

1. So even though it was bored already can I still re-sleeve it?
2. I hear people talk about importing Jap engines. Will this be a better option for me? Advice needed please?
3. will it be cost affective (including reliability in future) to restore this engine or should I go for a Remtek (or any other) refurbished engine?

It seems like this engine might have had a hard life already.

Once again, thank you to everybody that is always pitching in with their knowledge.

Rentec's reputation has dipped a bit. That being said....probably better than a corner workshop. Let LRextreme advise you.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by jelo

Rentec's reputation has dipped a bit. That being said....probably better than a corner workshop. Let LRextreme advise you.

---

Thanks Jelo. So is it possible to re-sleeve an engine that's been re-bored before?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Kudus

Thanks Jelo. So is it possible to re-sleeve an engine that's been re-bored before?

---

Oh absolutely. They just rebored the existing sleeve.

The process now is to press out the old sleeves, heat the block, chill the new sleeves and join them by force.
Then mill the block and sleeve face, and off you go (with another 100 steps as per the workshop manual).

This is a sleeve:

https://cdn1.oxatis.com/Files/122596...351027x600.jpg

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by jelo

Oh absolutely. They just rebored the existing sleeve.

The process now is to press out the old sleeves, heat the block, chill the new sleeves and join them by force.
Then mill the block and sleeve face, and off you go (with another 100 steps as per the workshop manual).

This is a sleeve:

https://cdn1.oxatis.com/Files/122596...351027x600.jpg

---

That sounds easy like you described it. But its a complex job. Lol

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Sam vd Merwe

That sounds easy like you described it. But its a complex job. Lol

---

Yes, and it needs a proper engineering shop...........

LRExtreme will farm it out. That includes hone or bore to standard oversize spec.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by jelo

Oh absolutely. They just rebored the existing sleeve.

The process now is to press out the old sleeves, heat the block, chill the new sleeves and join them by force.
Then mill the block and sleeve face, and off you go (with another 100 steps as per the workshop manual).

This is a sleeve:

https://cdn1.oxatis.com/Files/122596...351027x600.jpg

---

Thank you Jelo. Very well explained even I could understand it ;D

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Sam vd Merwe

That sounds easy like you described it. But its a complex job. Lol

---

LOL, yes sure but Jelo knows how limited my knowledge is by now so he has to break it down real simple for me to get it;)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Kudus

LOL, yes sure but Jelo knows how limited my knowledge is by now so he has to break it down real simple for me to get it;)

---

Never mind. Workshop manuals have lots of diagrams for a reason [emoji16]

Quick question

I’ve been looking around at prices for engines. Haven’t received the report on mine yet.

I see the prices on imported engines are around R24 000 from Acrotek and LDRengines. Is this something to consider? Might it be cheaper this way?
But will it be more reliable?
what about a Jap import?
Or should I just rebuild the engine I have? What will in the end be more reliable and cost affective?

Reliability would, of course, be an unknown with such an engine. Remember it's still a 25-year-old engine that's going in there. A lot can happen in 25 years.

I think a lot depends on what you want to use the car for. And how much money you want to sink in it (I don't say "invest" since you'll never get any of it back).

So you're getting a workshop to install it - not sure what they charge to remove and install an engine, but the last time I had this done by an indy I think it was around R8k. Then there's fluids and things. So probably not much change for R40k.

On the other hand, I can't see the engine overhaul exercise at an indy costing anything less than R70k with everything included. So there's that. It will be even more if you replace the head.

You've got to really love that car to sink so much capital in it (you're speaking to a Disco Tdi owner here so I do understand).

My first Disco's engine was a Remtec one, that eventually put a conrod through the block. I was saving up to do a full rebuild and then saw another (running) Disco, bought that one, and it ALSO ended up needing a rebuild. So I scrapped the one, saved for a year, rebuilt the other... Every time I get out of the car to open my gate, I listen to the sound of that engine and know that it was money well spent... and very satisfying work. BUT if I had to do it over - I would have put an Acrotek import engine in that original Disco for R20k and just carried on driving till it blew up. There would have been enough spare parts to keep me going for a long time!

Hi guys

Just an update. Engine is being overhauled at the moment. R46 000 was the quote. Can you believe they are struggling to find bearings because of Covid. Lets hope for the best!!!

Another one I should have offered R10k for....

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by jelo

Another one I should have offered R10k for....

---

For my Disco???:o ;)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by jelo

Another one I should have offered R10k for....

---

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...ok_story_share

Another one
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...ok_story_share

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Kudus

Hi guys

Just an update. Engine is being overhauled at the moment. R46 000 was the quote. Can you believe they are struggling to find bearings because of Covid. Lets hope for the best!!!

---

And the funny thing is if you buy from Cradock or Bearmack it's South African made.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Kudus

For my Disco???:o ;)

---

Yep. R46k is more than the current market value.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by jelo

Yep. R46k is more than the current market value.

---

Jelo, you seem to be a big Disco fan?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Kudus

Jelo, you seem to be a big Disco fan?

---

Loves to hate.

46K is steeds 'n bargain want daar is min voertuie wat by 'n D1/D2 kom.

My D1 se ratkas het 39K gekos en ek het maar 38K vir haar betaal. Al seker 20miljoen se plesier uit haar uit gekry.

Love the D1, both V8 and TDi. But one must eventually draw a line.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Henkus

Loves to hate.

46K is steeds 'n bargain want daar is min voertuie wat by 'n D1/D2 kom.

My D1 se ratkas het 39K gekos en ek het maar 38K vir haar betaal. Al seker 20miljoen se plesier uit haar uit gekry.

---

You just supported my price estimate.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Henkus

Loves to hate.

46K is steeds 'n bargain want daar is min voertuie wat by 'n D1/D2 kom.

My D1 se ratkas het 39K gekos en ek het maar 38K vir haar betaal. Al seker 20miljoen se plesier uit haar uit gekry.

---

R20mil se plesier!! Nou praat jy waar!!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by jelo

Love the D1, both V8 and TDi. But one must eventually draw a line.

---

It is that eventually that I have to figure out. I haven’t seen the line yet…:p

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Kudus

It is that eventually that I have to figure out. I haven’t seen the line yet…:p

---

Well cool then. Just something to think about at 05h00

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by jelo

Well cool then. Just something to think about at 05h00

---

I’d like to rather think of the Kalahari trips I did and what I am still going to do:)
But yes, I am also laying awake because of the problems the car has at the moment

Britpart bearings are the only bearings they could find for the small end bearings. Would you trust Britpart bearings?

I'm not allowed to comment.

As the small end of the conrod is tapered, fitting them could be more difficult, as you have to get the conrod square to the small end bearing when pressing them in.

I know that Mike from Britannica Restoration rather fit new conrods.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Kudus

Britpart bearings are the only bearings they could find for the small end bearings. Would you trust Britpart bearings?

---

maybe give Turner engineering in UK a shout see what make there ones are as on there sight says aftermarket OEM

Thanks for your advice. Will work on it tomorrow morning

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by jelo

I'm not allowed to comment.

---

All i can add is Britpart is not good. Cant speak my mind also

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Kudus

Britpart bearings are the only bearings they could find for the small end bearings. Would you trust Britpart bearings?

---

I think jfh put his finger on the problem here.

Whether they are Britpart or not, the problem is fitting them effectively. Somewhere on my Fugard thread I went through this story as well... ended up buying a set of Bearmach conrods from LP4A - I think it ended up costing around R5k. This after spending about R3k on engineering the old ones and not being happy with the result.

Turner Engineering does sell original LR conrods, reconditioned with new small ends. I would trust them. But you will pay...

The engine is being done by a reputable indy - ask them for some honest advice, in my opinion. What do they usually do? I would imagine that they would be happier fitting new conrods as well. This whole thing will impact the original quote they gave you - maybe they are trying to take a cheaper route to avoid doing this.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by antvz

I think jfh put his finger on the problem here.

Whether they are Britpart or not, the problem is fitting them effectively. Somewhere on my Fugard thread I went through this story as well... ended up buying a set of Bearmach conrods from LP4A - I think it ended up costing around R5k. This after spending about R3k on engineering the old ones and not being happy with the result.

Turner Engineering does sell original LR conrods, reconditioned with new small ends. I would trust them. But you will pay...

The engine is being done by a reputable indy - ask them for some honest advice, in my opinion. What do they usually do? I would imagine that they would be happier fitting new conrods as well. This whole thing will impact the original quote they gave you - maybe they are trying to take a cheaper route to avoid doing this.

---

Thanks antvz. Will give them a call asap in the morning then. Already emailed turner engineering. See what they respond

What do you guys think of Bearmach’s bearings?

What is value for the clearances it should run?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Kudus

What do you guys think of Bearmach’s bearings?

---

I'll have to ho on the site to see, but it's more about what brand they sell.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Kudus

What is value for the clearances it should run?

---

This will be found in the manual.

Is this for the small end bearing?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by jfh

I'll have to ho on the site to see, but it's more about what brand they sell.



This will be found in the manual.

Is this for the small end bearing?

---

Small end bearings yes. Guy said its running 500 do he is happy

Attachment 629770

This all I could find in the overhaul manual.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Kudus

Small end bearings yes. Guy said its running 500 do he is happy

---

Did he say 5 thousands?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by jfh

Did he say 5 thousands?

---

Thanks for all your trouble. He said in Afrikaans “500stes”

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Kudus

Jelo, you seem to be a big Disco fan?

---

Ignore him. He thinks he's being clever and people like him for being witty, but in actual fact he's just an annoying old man acting like a spoiled child

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Kudus

Thanks for all your trouble. He said in Afrikaans “500stes”

---

"500stes" is 0.127mm, that's a bit more than a tight sliding fit I think.

There must be no sideways play, according to the manual, maybe you could just ask him if there is any.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by jfh

"500stes" is 0.127mm, that's a bit more than a tight sliding fit I think.

There must be no sideways play, according to the manual, maybe you could just ask him if there is any.

---

Ok thanks. Will ask

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by jeepman85

Ignore him. He thinks he's being clever and people like him for being witty, but in actual fact he's just an annoying old man acting like a spoiled child

---

Ha ha
"Jeepman"
In a non 4x4 VW nogal

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by jelo

Ha ha
"Jeepman"
In a non 4x4 VW nogal

---

Non 4x4 VW? Are you smoking the good stuff again or are you so desperate to troll that you get confused?

Just an update

Got the car back after the engine rebuild. LRXtreme guys really did a great job. Something else that impressed me was the fact that they didn't treat my car like a piece of scrap but they treated it the same as the other workshops treat a disco 4 and its owner.

Org, Walter and their team are great!!!!

Thank you to you all for walking this scary journey with me and all the advice given!!

Sorry Jelo, the car is not for sale:p