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  #1  
Old 17-01-11, 07:33 PM
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Default How to fix the Triton steering column

How to fix the Triton steering column

Ok, so another forum member (thank you 4x4Freak) managed to get hold of his old steering column, which was replaced under maintenance plan. I had the column picked up in Cape Town, and brought through to Pretoria for me to inspect.



The Column I received.


At first, I could not find anything wrong with the column... All bearings and bushes on the shaft seem to be in perfect condition... And then, I tried something else...



The 4 circles marked in red, is the mounting points for the column inside the vehicle.


I grabbed hold of the one funny looking mounting with a vice-grip, and found this mounting to be loose...





I then discovered, that both these funny mountings are not solid...

Ok, so to fix the steering column, you just need to secure these mountings, but here’s the catch! Fixing this could be life threatening in the event of a head-on vehicle accident... Yes, by fixing this could perhaps kill you... WHY ?

Let me explain....

Let’s start by having a closer look at these funny mountings.


This mounting (as seen in photo)....





.....Slides onto the steering column’s bracket








Then, the mounting gets glued to the steering column...

See red circles in 2 pictures below...







Now these 4 glued spots are supposed to break during an accident... Why ??





In an accident (head-on)... The mountings (red arrows) will stay bolted to the vehicle... Then, the steering column (green arrows) will collapse in the direction of the yellow arrow. This will only happen if the 2 glued brackets are able to break loose. This makes for a “collapsible” steering in the event of an accident.

What happens now is that the glue breaks of during normal use, which causes the steering column to rattle on its own mountings.

I removed my Triton’s cover, grabbed hold of my steering wheel, and started pushing and pulling on it... I could clearly see that my Triton’s exact mountings are also loose....

So, to fix the “loose” steering column, you should just permanently attach these 2 little mountings to the steering column bracket.

Now I have not done this to my vehicle yet, so I have no solution on HOW to attach the two... But I’m either considering using a lot of Pratley Steel glue, or maybe to use 2 X 2mm bolts on each bracket (through the holes used for the glue). These 2mm bolts should (but I CANNOT guarantee this) break in an event of a head-on accident, which COULD perhaps still give you a collapsible steering column. There are a lot of ways to fix this, but as mentioned... Permanently fixing these little brackets to the steering column COULD cause your steering column NOT to collapse in a head on collision.
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  #2  
Old 17-01-11, 09:00 PM
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Eish! Very interesting.

So apart from rattling there should actually be no influence on the handling of the bakkie once these mountings have worked themselves loose?

Maybe a glue that does not bond quite as hard as pratley? I'd hate to have that column impale me in the even of an accident!

Maybe one can find some sort of plastic clip to mount through the glue holes that will still sheer off...

Seems like a iffy design on a vehicle that should be able take a fair amount of punishment...
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Old 17-01-11, 09:45 PM
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Baie baie goeie werk Regardt! Dit is uitstekende nuus! Ek is baie beindruk!
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Old 18-01-11, 06:59 AM
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Just to let you know... I will be fixing mine sometime in the future... And if it does happen that I'm involved in a head-on, then what will happen will happen... I could just as easily end up in a head-on with SWAMBO's citi golf...

Thanks Nico
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Old 18-01-11, 07:06 AM
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My suggestion would be a very small tac with the welder. Not, very small. Welding on steel carries 1tonne per 10mm. So it must be about 0,5mm. Your Pratley steel trick should also work. I suggest a copious amount, as Pratley Steel is very brittle.

Come to think of it, Sikaflex should work quite well. Not brittle and not as soft as Silicone. But will sheer under load.
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Old 18-01-11, 07:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Henris View Post
My suggestion would be a very small tac with the welder. Not, very small. Welding on steel carries 1tonne per 10mm. So it must be about 0,5mm. Your Pratley steel trick should also work. I suggest a copious amount, as Pratley Steel is very brittle.

Come to think of it, Sikaflex should work quite well. Not brittle and not as soft as Silicone. But will sheer under load.
Henris,

I'm not sure how you would weld it (what type of welding), cause the bracket is not made of steel... It's some sort of aluminium alloy... The steering column bracket is steel though... So for a PERMANENT fix, you could remove those funny inserts, and weld a piece of flatbar in it's place... But then there is no way the the steering will colapse...
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Old 18-01-11, 08:15 AM
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Sinwolf ek se weer jou beaut. jy is slim.. Dis reg wat van in plaas van gom n klein bietjie epoxy ? Dis flippen sterk. Dalk kan jy dit toets op daai ou coloum van my ? Dit is goeie werk meneer
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Old 18-01-11, 08:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4x4 freak View Post
Sinwolf ek se weer jou beaut. jy is slim.. Dis reg wat van in plaas van gom n klein bietjie epoxy ? Dis flippen sterk. Dalk kan jy dit toets op daai ou coloum van my ? Dit is goeie werk meneer
Thanks... En nee, nie slim nie... Net oplettend

Ek kan daai ou een van jou plak, maar die toets werk sal moet in 'n voertuig gedoen word, sodat die column aan all die daaglikse stress blootgestel kan word...

Now I understand why Mitsu dealers say the problem is not life threatening.... It's actually life saving
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Old 18-01-11, 08:32 AM
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Thanks bulla
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Old 18-01-11, 10:57 AM
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Nice om te weet ons het sulke kundige mense op die site!!
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Old 18-01-11, 11:10 AM
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Amazing work Regardt, well done and thank you!
Even should I decide not to fix it (unlikely) at least we all know exactly what is going on now and can rest a little easier.

I am curious to see everyone's solution to this now that we know what to do (sikaflex, pratley, flat bar etc) but i have a question for some of you:

Those of us with big heavy BullBars obviously have a concern already i.c.w crumple zones when making contact with another solid object (ie head on collision)... so is the crumpling of the steering column as much of a concern in these instances?
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Old 18-01-11, 05:38 PM
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Citi Golf vs Triton in headon collision?

Collapsable steering vs fixed steering?

Even my Colt vs Triton?

I would think about it and make it a solid fix vs use sikaflex.....
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Old 19-01-11, 09:18 AM
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Another two questions;
1. How would your insurers react? Obviously they would have to FIND what was done, which would be pretty unlikely... but if they do go over the car with a fine tooth comb after a crash and find that something was "fixed" they might reject a claim? To get even more negative... this would really suck if you were impaled by the column too and it was SWAMBO claiming
2. If you have a 3rd party warranty provider... same thing... you have a steering issue, you claim, they send an assessor, find some homemade handiwork and VOILA they reject and you pay for everything yourself.

Eish. decisions decisions.
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Old 19-01-11, 10:15 AM
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At least you would not have to repair the steering column...

So bietjie wiskunde... help my as ek verkeerd is...

Shear strength = 0.6 x Tensile strength (for mild steel)
Tensile strength = 800MPA -grade 8.8
Thus Shear strength = 480 MPA

Shear strength = Force (Newton) / Area
Thus Force = Shear strength x Area.
If you use a 2mm bolt the area will be Pi X Diameter^2 / 4 = 3.141 mm2
Thus the Force required to shear the bolt will be 1508 Newton = 153 kg per bolt...
However for a 1mm bolt it will be 38kg per bolt.

Further, if you get a grade 4.8 bolt it would be 19kg per 1mm bolt... and 77kg per 2mm bolt.

I would say drill a new hole, thread it and put on a 1mm bolt on a side. This will be strong enough to keep the stuff from moving and still break in an accident...

If my brain did not freeze over...
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Old 19-01-11, 10:23 AM
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And in an accident... What will be the force of your body on that steering ?? I would say AT LEAST 150kg ??
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Old 19-01-11, 10:24 AM
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P.S. Dankie vir die berekeninge smiles
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Old 19-01-11, 10:57 AM
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Stem saam oor die 1mm boutjie en dis rerig nie baie nie. Die fors wat gebruik word om te breek vs die gom is uiteindelik die verskil.

Die groot ding oor die stuur wat breek is om jou borskas en nek te red. Maar ek vra net weer hoeveel voertuie op die mark het rerig stuur meganismes wat breek? Jy is dalk net gelukkig oor jy 'n Triton ry.

Maar die keuse is daar 1mm bout of weer net gom? Dalk sterker as wat Mitsubishi gebruik?
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Old 20-01-11, 10:29 AM
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SinWolf, do you want to link this thread to the newtriton.net forum? I saw on the other thread you have registered there.
Lets get the Aussies to throw some brainpower at it... hopefully they are better mechanics than they are rugby players and can give us some feedback as to whether this has been resolved over there.
From what i have already searched on their forum, a lot of them have obviously experienced the knocking and have complained about it, but no one has offered a solution as yet.

... At the very least you will look like a hero in another country
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Old 20-01-11, 10:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NerdBakkie View Post
SinWolf, do you want to link this thread to the newtriton.net forum? I saw on the other thread you have registered there.
Lets get the Aussies to throw some brainpower at it... hopefully they are better mechanics than they are rugby players and can give us some feedback as to whether this has been resolved over there.
From what i have already searched on their forum, a lot of them have obviously experienced the knocking and have complained about it, but no one has offered a solution as yet.

... At the very least you will look like a hero in another country

I sleep at night.... NOT during the day....

http://www.newtriton.net/phpbb/viewt...hp?f=23&t=7284
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Old 20-01-11, 10:57 AM
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haha, k, guess i should have searched better
I like their idea of a simple silicon adhesive to dampen the knocking... i would assume that the "Silastic" they are talking about is their equivalent to a normal black car silicone?
It obviously wouldn't act as a serious adhesive, but could perhaps stop the annoying play and knocking...?
My concern with a sikflex/pratley solution is that if it does eventually break... as it no doubt will after constant use and force after 10,000km's... then not only are you right back at square one, but you also have a mess of solid grey gunk that you have to file off.
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Old 20-01-11, 12:00 PM
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Sinwolf, gaan maak 'n draai by hobby shops, spesifiek die wat in vliegtuie spesialiseer.

Jy kry nylon boute wat gebruik word om die model vliegtuie se vlerke aan die rompe vas te maak. Word gebruik vir exactly waarvoor jy dit wil gebruik, in geval van 'n prang sheer die boute af.
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Old 20-01-11, 12:07 PM
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Quote:
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Sinwolf, gaan maak 'n draai by hobby shops, spesifiek die wat in vliegtuie spesialiseer.

Jy kry nylon boute wat gebruik word om die model vliegtuie se vlerke aan die rompe vas te maak. Word gebruik vir exactly waarvoor jy dit wil gebruik, in geval van 'n prang sheer die boute af.
Thanks...

Ek ken daai boute ja.... Maar hulle is nogals dik... 5mm

Ek wil nie graag die gate op daai klein brackets so groot boor nie...

Ek sal wel kyk of ek dalk dunner nylon boute kan gry... se 3mm maks !
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Old 21-01-11, 10:47 PM
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Manne , net n gedagte. As jy nie regkom met die nylon boutjie nie
Brass boutjie en moertjie wat effens gemerk (met yster saag) is op die sheering point . Die shearing strenght van brass behoort nog laer te wees as mild steel.
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Old 17-02-11, 12:45 PM
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Default Dankie!

Sinwolf, Dankie, dankie! Dit was nog die een ding wat elke nou en dan in die aande by my kom spook het. Nou is ek rustiger en sal die nodige goedjies in my toolbox gooi...Daar behoort 'n prys te wees vir hierdie soort 'speurwerk'! Wel gedaan!GroetePieter
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Old 17-02-11, 02:24 PM
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Yes hy het mooi gemaak met dit!
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Old 18-02-11, 08:26 AM
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How about 2 or 3 small (aluminium) pop rivits; should shear quite easiliy?
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Old 19-02-11, 09:33 AM
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How about sika - it's almost like silicon?
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Old 09-02-12, 09:52 PM
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Default Triton stearing

Ek het nou my colum uitgesort het die gaaitjies oopgeboor gevul met steenvas en die bracket terug gesit stearing is nou baie solid en stil.
Wil net graag iets weet , as my triton afgeskakel is en jy draai die stuurwiel vinnig links en regs dan is daar so n kap geluid wat klink of dit van die rack en pinion af kom maar as jy die voertuig start en die selfde doen is dit stil, wil weet is dit normaal of is daar fout iewers op die rack en pinion
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Old 03-10-12, 02:59 PM
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[QUOTE=SinWolf;664370]How to fix the Triton steering column

Ok, so another forum member (thank you 4x4Freak) managed to get hold of his old steering column, which was replaced under maintenance plan. I had the column picked up in Cape Town, and brought through to Pretoria for me to inspect.




I realize that this is now quite old. However I refuse to believe that my 100,000 Km Triton that does nothing but softroading at best would require two column replacements in that sort of mileage. So when the problem resurfaced I took another look at this.

What SinWolf described here is true, but there is also another contributor to this. The rubber shown on the picture (at the end of the metal bellows) is held in place by a very flimsy clamp. I presume this is meant to fail as part of the steering collapsing mechanism. This clamp has two parts that 'must' hook onto each other to hold the rubber bush in place. When this clamp fails and opens up enough, the steering column gives you the sensation that it has a play.

A simple action of forcing the steering to turn with no engine assistance (engine off), combined with tires significantly wider than spec will open this bush clamp. I have neither found the time nor worked out a way to clamp it back firmly. So I have the two ends of the clamp strapped together by a T15R cable strap and my steering has been quite firm with no funny feeling for the past two weeks.
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Old 03-10-12, 03:41 PM
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Hi Lusenga

I presume the clamp you are talking about is the one with the green markings on them??
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Old 03-10-12, 03:50 PM
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Quote:
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Hi Lusenga

I presume the clamp you are talking about is the one with the green markings on them??
Correct. That thing is next to the angled joint and therefore must be reasonably anchored. If there is movement there you will feel it when turning the steering, especially coming in / out of parking lots as you need full locks.
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Old 05-10-12, 10:38 AM
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Blast, thought maybe that was the source of my neverending woes but mine is solid.
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