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  #1  
Old 12-07-10, 08:24 AM
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Default V8 Fuel Consumption


Ok ok, for the billionth time here we go with the consumption thing again. I have been driving my D1 V8 auto around a bit this weekend and worked out the fuel consumption. It equates to about 3 km/l which is mainly highway driving. Now i know they heavy but this is crazy.

So fiddling in the engine bay there is 2 lambda sensor plugs, the sensors have been unplugged at some stage in the vehicles life when a new exhaust was being installed and then just done away with. Has anyone unplugged there sensors? How does the ecu know they no longer applicable?

What do i need to check in order to understand the high consumption? by no means do i "race" the disco.
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Old 12-07-10, 08:40 AM
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Keen, 3km/l is insane to say the least. My D1 V8 in town i'm getting 5km/l. I was getting 4km/l and thought something had to be wrong. If i was you i'd call Jack with regards and ask if he wouldn't mind checking the items possibly contributing to the high consumption.
I went to him after thinking i could of had a faulty MAF, he connect up his laptop diagnostics machine, confirmed all was OK and cleared the remaining faults.
You wont know untill you get it checked...

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Old 12-07-10, 08:53 AM
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Ajay, the issue at the moment is that i need to get some mileage on the thing so that i can take it back to him for a service after the engine work done. He was having an issue connecting to the ECU last time i was there. There must be something i can look for though.
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Old 12-07-10, 08:57 AM
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Wow, and I thought 5km/L is bad.

I didn't think Lambdaís were fitted to D1's in this country.

I have a 97 Range Rover and the Lambda plugs are just sitting each side of the sump. Only the North American model actually had them fitted. I could be wrong but I think the wiring exists but the sensors were never fitted.

However if you are supposed to have sensors fitted and the CPU is not getting a reading then it may consider this to be a very lean mixture and pump all the fuel it can into the motor to compensate.

If it is a little smarter then it would have gone into a limp home function which would probably still give you at least 5km/litre on the highway.

Personally I don't think the lambdaís are your problem. Again I could be wrong but the D1 had a lot of vacuum pipes which if perished could have a major influence on fuel consumption.

You donít mention what speed you travel at on the Highway. I recently drove to Durban and back with 5 people and luggage, returned 13L/100 on the way down from JHB and 15L/100 on the way back with the Cruise Control set at 110 on the GPS and that's the 4.6L motor.

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Old 12-07-10, 09:02 AM
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unplug the MAF and check if there is any difference in the idling, pulling or general driving. if not, the MAF is shot.
i would take it back to Jack and check the MAF in any event.
check the timing as well.
5 is more or less what you should be aiming for around town if you don't drag race and 7 on the highway.
i know the motor has been redone and should still be stiff but those figures are crazy.

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Old 12-07-10, 09:10 AM
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OK, if you can take a photo of where the lambdaís plug in and a breif discription i could check for you on mine. I've still got stock std branches and pipe. Then i'd follow LL's instructions about checking the MAF. Other problem if not the MAF could be a lifter problem. No point guessing though...

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Old 12-07-10, 09:15 AM
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there is a way the lambda sensors can be disabled from the ECU.
the same ECU was used on vehicles fitted with and without Lamda sensors. Jack should be able to do that.

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Old 12-07-10, 09:16 AM
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I agree, MAF is the most likely cause if the wiring to the CPU is ok. As you mention the mechanic had problems wiring it up.

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Old 12-07-10, 10:09 AM
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MAF is ok, Jack confirmed that it was fine. There must be something else i can check. My highway speeds are between 90 and 110kmh so no low flying. Can vacume hoses really have that much odf an effect?
How can i check the coil? And plug leads? There is no mifiring but maybe there is an issue with that?
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Old 12-07-10, 10:27 AM
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Does your cruise control work? If so i'd say your vacuum pipes are OK. All the soft rubber pipes around the engine bay are mostly vacuum pipes, comes from the the masterbrake cyl up the firewall (top) across the top to behind the water bottle (into a T piece) then distributes to accel and to the front left headlight area.
I'm sure Jack would of set the timing correctly, unless it wasn't tightend and has come lose? No missfire would be an indication of tiing being good. Hell bud i don't know. I'm getting 5km/l, but i don't think i'd be a happy camper with getting 3.

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  #11  
Old 12-07-10, 01:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keenfish View Post

So fiddling in the engine bay there is 2 lambda sensor plugs, the sensors have been unplugged at some stage in the vehicles life when a new exhaust was being installed and then just done away with. Has anyone unplugged there sensors? How does the ecu know they no longer applicable?
AFAIK, the Disco 1 sold in this country did not have lambdas but a lot had them fitted aftermarket. Mine does.

You need to check what tune resistor is fitted. You will find it in the loom going to the ECU which is in the footwell fitted to the rhs of the vehicle. You need to remove the cover just about above your shins. It is taped in to the loom and quite hard to find. It will have a blue connector and a resistor inside clear plastic. You can tell the value of the resistor by the colour of the wires. If it is a white one then it is (I think 3900 ohms) then it is expecting to see lambdas. If it is red or blue your lambdas will be ignored.

Quote:
What do i need to check in order to understand the high consumption? by no means do i "race" the disco.
The usual culprits are the MAF, the coolant temp sensor and the lambdas (if fitted). These are quite easy to test with a multimeter. If you are happy to diy I can give you more info.
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Old 12-07-10, 01:45 PM
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Hi Ancient, i'm more than happy to DIY, please send me the info.
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Old 12-07-10, 06:35 PM
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Rub your finger around the inside of the exhaust, is it black sooty and smells of petrol?

Remove each spark plug and see if they all look the same or if any are sooty or dark to light grey. If any are not like the majority, make a note of what cylinders and then let us know

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  #14  
Old 12-07-10, 08:10 PM
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Don't forget the vacuum advance. This is easily missed and makes a huge difference to fuel consumption. A common problem on the D1.

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Old 13-07-10, 08:13 AM
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Ok, let me give you a bit more backround. The disco was heavy on fuel, then i found out the head gasket was leaking. We sorted the head gasket, rebuilt the motor and now the consumption is still heavy. So Estee i don't think we will be able to pinpoint it to a cylinder, it would have to be something pre existing. The throttle body was really dirt so i tried giving it a clean with some carb cleaner. Maybe that will help the consumption.

Vacuum advance seems fine. Tried to clean MAF again but haven't had time to take it for a drive.

AncientGeek mentioned the resistor, i had a look and it's green so the ecu is not looking for the lambda sensors. This issue has me a bit foxed.
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Old 13-07-10, 08:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by camelman View Post
Don't forget the vacuum advance. This is easily missed and makes a huge difference to fuel consumption. A common problem on the D1.
Just out of curiousity, the vacuum advance pump? Where is it located on a D1?

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  #17  
Old 13-07-10, 09:04 AM
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You need to disassemble the MAF to clean it properly. It comes apart quite easily with a torx key. Be careful with the gaskets. On the left you will see a separate passage with 2 wires in it. Give it a good spray with an electronic cleaner that leaves no residue. If its very dirty use carb cleaner first. Let wel I have heard the Bosch maf on the disco 2 does not like being cleaned.

To check the MAF you need some way of tapping into the wires going into it. I made up an intermediate connector with male and female spade plugs that I could clamp a multimeter into. The red/black wire is ground. You should measure 12v between this and the brown/orange wire. The blue green should be about .5v volts with the ignition on and engine not running, and about 1.7 v at idle. While you have the maf apart blow into the passage with the wires and you should see the voltage increase. Hardly rocket science but a good test. The blue-red is the CO trim, it should be between 1 and 1.5 volts. You can adjust this with a screwdriver inserted into the tube facing backwards which has a potentiometer inside. It might have an anti-tamper plug but the chances are someone has already removed it. Accurate setting requires a CO analyser but you could use the lean drop method provided your idle is good (and the IAC disconnected). This has a big effect on idle mixture pretty much like the mixture screw in a carburetor.

The 3.9 engine has 3 temp sensors! If you look behind the distributor you will see one the on left one at a strange angle on the thermostat housing. This is the over-temp switch that turns on the AC fans if the engine is too hot. Measure the resistance across the 2 connectors. It should be an open circuit on a cold engine. If its shorted your fans will come on all the time.

To the right is the temp sensor positioned vertically in or above the thermostat housing. Pull the plug off and measure the resistance on the sensor. It should be about 5000 ohms with a cold engine. The resistance decreases with temp so you can test it again with the engine hot or remove it and test it in near-boiling water. It should go down to about 200 ohms when hot. If your temp sensor is faulty you will probably have a very poor idle when hot. Behind the temp sensor is another one with a single wire which is the one used for the dashboard.

Here are some good reads:
http://www.britishv8.org/Articles/Rover-14CUX-EFI.htm
http://www.g33.co.uk/fuel_injection.htm
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Old 13-07-10, 09:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AjayDisco View Post
Just out of curiousity, the vacuum advance pump? Where is it located on a D1?
Theres no vacuum pump you only get those on diesels. But above the throttle there is a nipple that has a pipe going to the vacuum advance on the distributor. It is easily blocked. You can prise out the nipple to clean it properly.

Its a strange design in that the gaaitjie for the vacuum is just upstream of the throttle so there is no vacuum at idle, only at part throttle. I've yet to see an explanation of why they did this.
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Old 13-07-10, 09:14 AM
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Ajay, The vacuum advance is on the distrubutor.
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Old 13-07-10, 09:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AncientGeek View Post
You need to disassemble the MAF to clean it properly. It comes apart quite easily with a torx key. Be careful with the gaskets. On the left you will see a separate passage with 2 wires in it. Give it a good spray with an electronic cleaner that leaves no residue. If its very dirty use carb cleaner first. Let wel I have heard the Bosch maf on the disco 2 does not like being cleaned.

To check the MAF you need some way of tapping into the wires going into it. I made up an intermediate connector with male and female spade plugs that I could clamp a multimeter into. The red/black wire is ground. You should measure 12v between this and the brown/orange wire. The blue green should be about .5v volts with the ignition on and engine not running, and about 1.7 v at idle. While you have the maf apart blow into the passage with the wires and you should see the voltage increase. Hardly rocket science but a good test. The blue-red is the CO trim, it should be between 1 and 1.5 volts. You can adjust this with a screwdriver inserted into the tube facing backwards which has a potentiometer inside. It might have an anti-tamper plug but the chances are someone has already removed it. Accurate setting requires a CO analyser but you could use the lean drop method provided your idle is good (and the IAC disconnected). This has a big effect on idle mixture pretty much like the mixture screw in a carburetor.

The 3.9 engine has 3 temp sensors! If you look behind the distributor you will see one the on left one at a strange angle on the thermostat housing. This is the over-temp switch that turns on the AC fans if the engine is too hot. Measure the resistance across the 2 connectors. It should be an open circuit on a cold engine. If its shorted your fans will come on all the time.

To the right is the temp sensor positioned vertically in or above the thermostat housing. Pull the plug off and measure the resistance on the sensor. It should be about 5000 ohms with a cold engine. The resistance decreases with temp so you can test it again with the engine hot or remove it and test it in near-boiling water. It should go down to about 200 ohms when hot. If your temp sensor is faulty you will probably have a very poor idle when hot. Behind the temp sensor is another one with a single wire which is the one used for the dashboard.

Here are some good reads:
http://www.britishv8.org/Articles/Rover-14CUX-EFI.htm
http://www.g33.co.uk/fuel_injection.htm
AG - Just out of concern, i do understand the voltage tests as well as the cleaning of the MAF. But i've been strongly advised by LR Indies that the screw which is blocked off on the MAF where you make adjustments up or down what ever the case should never be adjusted. Its blocked off for a reason. Unless you have had success with regards?
I'm still at a dead end about vacuum. I'm going to check this area on the distributor since i've been having endless troublshooting of the cruise control. Sorry off of the subject, but its just been something i've not been sure of and will check there now...

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Old 13-07-10, 09:39 AM
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start with the basics. get a timing light, set her up and check the timing with vacuum pipes removed.
now reconnect the vacuum hoses and check the timing again. give her a rev and seee if the timing changes and if it is going the correct way. sometimes guys fit the hoses on the wrong direction. the distributor is fitted with 2 takeoffs. the one at the front should be used for the vacuum pipe. a jump of around 10 degrees when the acclerator is prodded is normally acceptable.
timing at the reef is also around 6 degrees faster than at the coast. timing with hoses disconnected should be around 8 degrees BTDC at reef altitude.
when reconnecting, it should read around 12 - 14 deg BTDC.
one thing not mentioned so far is injection pressure. get a tyre pressure gauge and with the motor running, check the fuel pressure. poor fuel pressure will also increase fuel consumption as incorrect atomising is happening.

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Old 13-07-10, 10:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AjayDisco View Post
AG - Just out of concern, i do understand the voltage tests as well as the cleaning of the MAF. But i've been strongly advised by LR Indies that the screw which is blocked off on the MAF where you make adjustments up or down what ever the case should never be adjusted. Its blocked off for a reason. Unless you have had success with regards?
Chances are its already been fiddled with. If you are concerned, just measure the voltage first and you can always put it back to that voltage.

The idle screw is also blocked off and that will def need adjustment and/or cleaning on an old car.
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Old 13-07-10, 02:37 PM
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Keen, just remove the spark plugs and report back on what you observe. I am looking for either or a copule of sooty spark plugs and or grey coloured spark plugs that are not like the rest. I am going somewhere with this but need to know what the plugs look like

Cheers

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Old 13-07-10, 05:33 PM
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a pitchure is worth a thousand words!
get those sparkies out and show us your goodies.
lay them on a piece of paper, number them and flash!
did you replace the plugs after the rebuild?
do you have the correct ones fitted?
a wrong plug can cause heavy consumption and difficult starting.
do a compression test as well. it's not too early.

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Old 13-07-10, 05:39 PM
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YIP, them sparkies tell a fantastic story, from restictions in the plenum chamber, broken HT leads, worn and or poorly seated injectors so before racking the noggin and trying all sorts of other options, just check the plugs first and we can go from there

If all sooted up, we head in one direction, if one or two are sooted up, we head in another

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Old 13-07-10, 06:02 PM
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Hi Guys

Unfortunately my spark plug socket is at my parents place. so won't be able to check the plugs until i get a chance to go past and get it, which might be over the weekend.
It's definately overfueling, i can see the black smoke coming out of the exhaust when i rev her. Does that help?
What would cause her to run that rich?
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Old 13-07-10, 06:06 PM
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Just to clarify, it's not bellowing black smoke, just under hard revving
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Old 13-07-10, 06:07 PM
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We need to know if it is across all cylinders or just a couple, like on one bank (replaced head gasket side for instance).

Injectors act like mini carburettors so it could be mechanical and isolated to a couple of cylinders to something like the air/fuel mix settings across all cylinders and or a restriction in the plenum (no offence, but machies can leave a bit of rag in an orrifice from time to time)

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Old 13-07-10, 06:21 PM
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the root of overfuelling can be varied :
1) worn injectors
2) wrong grade of plug
3) distributor not operating correctly - advance curve incorrect - vacuum advance not working properly etc.
4) breakdown in spark - ht leads, coil, defective pickup.
5) cam timing out - the motor was taken apart. the cam can be out by one tooth.

etc etc

take one step back.
was she heavy before the "rebuild"
is there a difference in pulling power, starting or any other noticeable difference. remember the engine was rebuilt but theoretically everything else is as was.
cam timing is easy enough to check.
timing is easy enough to check.
the sparkplug grade compared with what is specced should be easy enough to check. were they replaced?
loosen the distributor and slowly turn the distributor till she loses revs. she should settle at around 750 rpm. give her a rev and check if she is smoking soot. tighten the distributor and leave there till you have a timing light.
start her and see if she takes easily.
take her for a drive and feel if she is smooth.

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Old 13-07-10, 06:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Estee View Post
We need to know if it is across all cylinders or just a couple, like on one bank (replaced head gasket side for instance).

Injectors act like mini carburettors so it could be mechanical and isolated to a couple of cylinders to something like the air/fuel mix settings across all cylinders and or a restriction in the plenum (no offence, but machies can leave a bit of rag in an orrifice from time to time)
Estee, just out of interest how should the plugs look if engine is running well? I'm interested to see how mine are burning as well. LL suggested i try using NGK plugs over the Champions i was supplied for my D1. LL if you do read this would you mind posting the make of R300 which rounds off to about 36lt. I'm getting on average 160kms off that, which would indicate 4.7km to a lt. This is only suburb driving to work and back. Just interested, may even buy a spare set of plugs to see what the difference is...

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Old 13-07-10, 06:43 PM
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Ajay, the sparks should be realtively dry and a darkish grey, hard to explain in words. The condition of the electrode also gives a clue. You dont want very light grey or whitish (lean) or oily and black (rich). Always look for pitting in the electrodes or if it appears to be burning away. Also, consistency across all the plugs is ideal. If there are a few that are different from the norm, this is indicative of specific problems per cyclinder/spark plug or a bank of plugs.

Also, over eager insertion of the plug can decrease the gap and this can cause problems, not necessarily overfueling.

In terms of the overfueling, we need to understand how too much fuel is getting into the cylinders, either across all or just a few. The old way we used to check these was the condition of the plugs. Google some of the manufacturers sites, they often have pictures of failed plugs linked to the causes

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Last edited by Estee; 13-07-10 at 06:46 PM.
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Old 13-07-10, 06:49 PM
Keenfish Keenfish is offline
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OK LL, she runs perfectly, doesn't battle to start, she runs really really well, just damn heavy on fuel. The plugs weren't changed as far as i can see and i think they champions, just can't see which ones. These are definately on the to do list.

It was heavy on fuel before the rebuild so jsut confused. Perhaps it's the coolant temperature sensor. Anyone know how much a new one costs? and where to get it from?
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Old 13-07-10, 07:41 PM
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http://www.google.co.za/imgres?imgur...ed=0CDQQ9QEwCQ

i run NGK BPR5ES (big head) or BKR5E (small head).
i tried Champion and my consumption jumped 1l/100km. thought it was my imagination and refitted the NGK's. monitored again over 1 month and tried the Cahmps again for a month. fuel consumption jumped again.
irrespective what guys say about the NGK, i stick to them.

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Old 13-07-10, 09:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keenfish View Post
Perhaps it's the coolant temperature sensor. Anyone know how much a new one costs? and where to get it from?
I've seen them on ebay. But test it first. You know the joke about the IT technician who swapped each wheel with the spare until the problem (flat tyre) went away?

Anyway you would see some very rough hot idling if the sensor was faulty. the others advice about pulling the plugs is sound. Keep a plug spanner in your car at all times. I also carry a spare plug in my car kit.
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Old 13-07-10, 10:47 PM
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unlikely that it would be the temperature sensor as the "choke" cycle would make her idle at around 1500rpm.
question : once warmed up, does the idling drop to normal levels?

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Old 14-07-10, 07:38 AM
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Yes, the idle does drop to normal levels. I'll go after work and get a plug spanner, I need some injector cleaner anyway so why not kill 2 birds with 1 stone.
How do i test the fuel pressure without messing up my tyre pressure gauge? Surely it will get filled with fuel the minute the "nipple" is depressed by the pressure gauge?
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Old 14-07-10, 07:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by landyluvver View Post
http://www.google.co.za/imgres?imgur...ed=0CDQQ9QEwCQ

i run NGK BPR5ES (big head) or BKR5E (small head).
i tried Champion and my consumption jumped 1l/100km. thought it was my imagination and refitted the NGK's. monitored again over 1 month and tried the Cahmps again for a month. fuel consumption jumped again.
irrespective what guys say about the NGK, i stick to them.
LL you mention two different NGK plugs (big head & small head) sorry for my ignorance, how does one establish the differences with regards? (to the motor)...

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Old 14-07-10, 07:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keenfish View Post
Yes, the idle does drop to normal levels. I'll go after work and get a plug spanner, I need some injector cleaner anyway so why not kill 2 birds with 1 stone.
How do i test the fuel pressure without messing up my tyre pressure gauge? Surely it will get filled with fuel the minute the "nipple" is depressed by the pressure gauge?
Keen injector cleaner that you pour in with the fuel?

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Old 14-07-10, 08:12 AM
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Does your cruise control work? If so i'd say your vacuum pipes are OK. All the soft rubber pipes around the engine bay are mostly vacuum pipes, comes from the the masterbrake cyl up the firewall (top) across the top to behind the water bottle (into a T piece) then distributes to accel and to the front left headlight area.
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Hi guys

Please be as kind to explain to me how the cruize control vacuum loss can affect your fuel consumption? As far as i know its not connected to the vacuum of the distributor??!

The reason why is ask is that a while ago my cruise control stopped working. I aslo have problems with my timing shifting around. Could there be a connection between these to problems? I was suspecting a worn cam shaft to cause the timing shift. She has 225k on the clock.

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Old 14-07-10, 09:58 AM
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Yes Ajay, the one you put in your fuel tank. I usually use wynns, haven't had any adverse effects on any of my other vehicles i have used it in. it's more a piece of mind thing although i have seen some consumption changes on other vehicles when i have used it.
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Old 14-07-10, 10:39 AM
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worn distributor shaft will show up in the distributor cap. if you inspect the contacts on the inside of the cap and the tip of the rotor, evidence of burn or pit marks may indicate that the shaft is moving about. it is normally more evident in rough idle.
try to move the shaft side to side to detect wear.
not very common even at 225k.
wynns injector cleaner. have found that the modern fuels have such good cleaning properties that the need to put in injector cleaner has largely become superfluous.
a little bit of 2 stroke does however seem to make a bigger difference to performance as it lubricates the injector needles. 200ml per tank.
i also run 95 octane unleaded and seems over time to make a difference in overall fuel consumption.
things that i am very fussy about are the following :
replace the HT leads every 50 000km
replace the sparkplugs every 20 000km
replace the rotor and distributor every 50 000km
fit a new fuel filter every 10 000km
service every 10 000km
completely drain and clean the tank every 50 000km

prevention is better than cure.

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Old 14-07-10, 10:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AjayDisco View Post
LL you mention two different NGK plugs (big head & small head) sorry for my ignorance, how does one establish the differences with regards? (to the motor)...
both the large and small head sparkplugs fit the V8. no differences in the sparkplug itself but the one is removed with a 16mm plug socket and the other with a 21.
attached a photo of 2 plugs. the one clearly has a smaller hex section than the other.
with NGK the P is the big head and the K the small head.
the rest of the sparkplug is identical.
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Old 14-07-10, 02:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keenfish View Post
Yes, the idle does drop to normal levels. I'll go after work and get a plug spanner, I need some injector cleaner anyway so why not kill 2 birds with 1 stone.
How do i test the fuel pressure without messing up my tyre pressure gauge? Surely it will get filled with fuel the minute the "nipple" is depressed by the pressure gauge?
try to get the petrol out by putting on a tyre several times each time allowing the air to be released from the gauge. the petrol dries quick enough and if petrol pressure is not done often, should not affect the gauge. you should get around 2.5 bar. just make sure the engine is running otherwise the pump will shut down.

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Old 14-07-10, 04:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by landyluvver View Post
you should get around 2.5 bar. just make sure the engine is running otherwise the pump will shut down.
AFAIK you need to disconnect the vacuum to the regulator to see that sort of pressure, else it will be be somewhat less, about 2 bar.
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Old 14-07-10, 06:03 PM
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Ok so i tested the fuel pressure. Bang on 2.5 bar. Plugs i'll do this weekend after giving her a proper drive, reason being i flooded her the other night whilst cleaning the throttle body so no doubt the plugs will be black and sooty.
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Old 14-07-10, 07:04 PM
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1 flooding will not change the colour of the plugs.
sooty buildup happens over a period of days or weeks.

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Old 20-07-10, 08:29 AM
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Excessive Fuel Consumption on V/8's . There are numerous items to check. Have engine checked on a diagnostic print-out. The technician will record CO results. He will then set the engine to deliver the correct CO at altitude or sea-level.
When correct CO is set this will be ideal to the manufacturers specifications with all sensors functioning. From Ron. Kalil
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Old 20-07-10, 09:50 AM
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Excessive Fuel Consumption on V/8's . There are numerous items to check. Have engine checked on a diagnostic print-out. The technician will record CO results. He will then set the engine to deliver the correct CO at altitude or sea-level.
When correct CO is set this will be ideal to the manufacturers specifications with all sensors functioning. From Ron. Kalil
that is cheating. takes the fun out of battling. there is no better feeling than finding a problem yourself!
yes, i agree, 99% of all the problems can be found using diagnostics.
have found from experience that 80% of problems with fuel consumption is related to the MAF.

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Old 20-07-10, 03:15 PM
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Well LL add mine to a faulty MAF. I took the landy to Jack on monday after i put R 300 petrol in it and only barely managed 112km. 3km/l eish!!!! Turns out the MAF was giving a completely wrong reading. Jack says it was supposed to be reading 1.4v or something and it was reading above 5v, hence the reason it was overfueling so badly.

So i really hope that it's now sorted out.
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Old 20-07-10, 03:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keenfish View Post
Well LL add mine to a faulty MAF. I took the landy to Jack on monday after i put R 300 petrol in it and only barely managed 112km. 3km/l eish!!!! Turns out the MAF was giving a completely wrong reading. Jack says it was supposed to be reading 1.4v or something and it was reading above 5v, hence the reason it was overfueling so badly.

So i really hope that it's now sorted out.
Replacement MAF on the cards? Or fixed?

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