a frame towing

[0-100km/h in 2 days]

Hi all
I want to tow my zuki sj 410 with an a-Frame
I have the a frame but there's no brackets on the zuki itself
Does anyone know where and how to mount it etc.
Thanx

[bushcamp]

I've built a couple for Jeeps, so the info should be relevant.

The best bet (in my opinion) is to have them integrated with the front bumper - the last one I did (and I won't change this on the next ones) is two 8mm x 50mm plates that sandwich the chassis - ie it's plate, sidevall of chassis, then plate again. I tie them onto the chassis with two 8.8 Bolts on either side. They are welded into the bumper (they go through it) and stick out in the front - they also double as recovery points with a 5 ton shackle inserted. The shackles are also used to tie the a-frame to the Jeep.

A couple of things to consider / keep in mind:
* The distance from the mounting points on the towed vehicle to the towing vehicle should be close to the width of the towed vehicles chassis (and thus mounting point) - this results in the easiest towing operation.
* The a-frame should be as close to horizontal as possible when connected - no goose neck or funky bend will help here. The mounting points or the towball needs to be moved.
* Make sure (and then double check) all mounting points before towing - losing a vehicle at even 60km/h from an a-frame is no fun, and unrecoverable. In 90% of cases at least one vehicle is going to roll
* An easy way to avoid having to add a connection point and wiring to the front of the Suzuki is to have a long lead between the back of the towing vehicle to the plug point on the towed vehicle (if the towed vehicle has a hitch and plug) - just plug it in there, the lights will work.
* Never tow fast. Fast is above 80 km/h
* Never tow Fast
* If you are going to travel long distance, remove the rear propshaft and store it (be carefull not to loose the needle bearings) in the car.
* Before you start towing, go through a checklist: Hitch secured, cables secured, lights working, towed vehicle's tires inflated properly, tv's steering wheel not locked and the keys in the ignition to keep it from locking, tv's freewheel hubs unlocked, tv's handbrake loose, tv's transfercase in neutral and the gearbox in 2nd (This works well for the Jeep - your mileage might vary)

Post pics of what you've got and what you'de like to do.

[Boeta]

Add proper recovery points to the vehicle - I would attach the A-frame to these.

[ThysleRoux]

Bushcamp has it well covered.

[Ian PR]

Having towed a T3 VW (read heavy) with a Monza (read light) like this I would add....

Watch the downhills - it can push like crazy - the Zuk should be ok but if the towed/tow vehicle is heavy/light combo, fast downhill = grey hair very quickly (see the dont drive fast comment posted...... )
Watch your turning around if you have to - as in a cul de sac - it is a looong rig to turn in the dark (dont drive down the wrong street without walking it ...)
Line them up dead straight when you hitch - remember this is not a trailer you can move around easily (you really need 2 people)
Make sure the whole arrangement had minimal play (nice fitting bolts etc...) otherwise it push - pulls & gives you a bang behind you & associated heart stopping moment

Good Luck

Ian

[Ntshangweni]

Thanx for the very usefull info as i'm also in the process of building a a-frame for the ZOOK.

Just some more questions,
I want to tow the zook with my Drifter D/Cab, but the zook is 'much' higher than the mazda, is this a big problem / how do i solve.

Can i also attach the rubber duck to the zook and tow in tandem ?

thanx guys

[bushcamp]

Try and line up the towing points of both vehicles - the more aligned they are, the easier it tows (and the less bumps and pulls you get) - if you've got a drop plate on your towing vehicle, move the towball to the top for the tow. It's only 4 bolts, it's going to take no more than 10 minutes, and it is going to make your life a lot easier. Otherwise try and move the attachment point on the Zook lower.

As to twoing in tandem - no. Just plain no. If you really, really NEED to tow like this, rather tow the zook (4 wheels and own steering) behind the duck (two wheels and no steering) - and then only if you are very, very, very brave. If that lot goes out of balance (which happens because the back wants to overtake the front) there's no way of stopping it. And let me tell you, when something on an a-frame pushes you when in a corner, you flip. No ands ifs or buts.

A trick I learnt when not perfectly lined up is to turn the towed vehicles' steering - you can move the a-frame by about 3 or 4 cm this way in either direction, and that's all you need sometimes. Just make sure the wheels are straightish before you start towing!