How to fix the Triton steering column




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  1. #1
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    Default How to fix the Triton steering column

    How to fix the Triton steering column

    Ok, so another forum member (thank you 4x4Freak) managed to get hold of his old steering column, which was replaced under maintenance plan. I had the column picked up in Cape Town, and brought through to Pretoria for me to inspect.



    The Column I received.


    At first, I could not find anything wrong with the column... All bearings and bushes on the shaft seem to be in perfect condition... And then, I tried something else...



    The 4 circles marked in red, is the mounting points for the column inside the vehicle.


    I grabbed hold of the one funny looking mounting with a vice-grip, and found this mounting to be loose...





    I then discovered, that both these funny mountings are not solid...

    Ok, so to fix the steering column, you just need to secure these mountings, but here’s the catch! Fixing this could be life threatening in the event of a head-on vehicle accident... Yes, by fixing this could perhaps kill you... WHY ?

    Let me explain....

    Let’s start by having a closer look at these funny mountings.


    This mounting (as seen in photo)....





    .....Slides onto the steering column’s bracket








    Then, the mounting gets glued to the steering column...

    See red circles in 2 pictures below...







    Now these 4 glued spots are supposed to break during an accident... Why ??





    In an accident (head-on)... The mountings (red arrows) will stay bolted to the vehicle... Then, the steering column (green arrows) will collapse in the direction of the yellow arrow. This will only happen if the 2 glued brackets are able to break loose. This makes for a “collapsible” steering in the event of an accident.

    What happens now is that the glue breaks of during normal use, which causes the steering column to rattle on its own mountings.

    I removed my Triton’s cover, grabbed hold of my steering wheel, and started pushing and pulling on it... I could clearly see that my Triton’s exact mountings are also loose....

    So, to fix the “loose” steering column, you should just permanently attach these 2 little mountings to the steering column bracket.

    Now I have not done this to my vehicle yet, so I have no solution on HOW to attach the two... But I’m either considering using a lot of Pratley Steel glue, or maybe to use 2 X 2mm bolts on each bracket (through the holes used for the glue). These 2mm bolts should (but I CANNOT guarantee this) break in an event of a head-on accident, which COULD perhaps still give you a collapsible steering column. There are a lot of ways to fix this, but as mentioned... Permanently fixing these little brackets to the steering column COULD cause your steering column NOT to collapse in a head on collision.
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  2. #2
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    Eish! Very interesting.

    So apart from rattling there should actually be no influence on the handling of the bakkie once these mountings have worked themselves loose?

    Maybe a glue that does not bond quite as hard as pratley? I'd hate to have that column impale me in the even of an accident!

    Maybe one can find some sort of plastic clip to mount through the glue holes that will still sheer off...

    Seems like a iffy design on a vehicle that should be able take a fair amount of punishment...
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    Baie baie goeie werk Regardt! Dit is uitstekende nuus! Ek is baie beindruk!
    Nico Swart

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    Just to let you know... I will be fixing mine sometime in the future... And if it does happen that I'm involved in a head-on, then what will happen will happen... I could just as easily end up in a head-on with SWAMBO's citi golf...

    Thanks Nico
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    My suggestion would be a very small tac with the welder. Not, very small. Welding on steel carries 1tonne per 10mm. So it must be about 0,5mm. Your Pratley steel trick should also work. I suggest a copious amount, as Pratley Steel is very brittle.

    Come to think of it, Sikaflex should work quite well. Not brittle and not as soft as Silicone. But will sheer under load.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Henris View Post
    My suggestion would be a very small tac with the welder. Not, very small. Welding on steel carries 1tonne per 10mm. So it must be about 0,5mm. Your Pratley steel trick should also work. I suggest a copious amount, as Pratley Steel is very brittle.

    Come to think of it, Sikaflex should work quite well. Not brittle and not as soft as Silicone. But will sheer under load.
    Henris,

    I'm not sure how you would weld it (what type of welding), cause the bracket is not made of steel... It's some sort of aluminium alloy... The steering column bracket is steel though... So for a PERMANENT fix, you could remove those funny inserts, and weld a piece of flatbar in it's place... But then there is no way the the steering will colapse...
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    Sinwolf ek se weer jou beaut. jy is slim.. Dis reg wat van in plaas van gom n klein bietjie epoxy ? Dis flippen sterk. Dalk kan jy dit toets op daai ou coloum van my ? Dit is goeie werk meneer
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4x4 freak View Post
    Sinwolf ek se weer jou beaut. jy is slim.. Dis reg wat van in plaas van gom n klein bietjie epoxy ? Dis flippen sterk. Dalk kan jy dit toets op daai ou coloum van my ? Dit is goeie werk meneer
    Thanks... En nee, nie slim nie... Net oplettend

    Ek kan daai ou een van jou plak, maar die toets werk sal moet in 'n voertuig gedoen word, sodat die column aan all die daaglikse stress blootgestel kan word...

    Now I understand why Mitsu dealers say the problem is not life threatening.... It's actually life saving
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    Thanks bulla
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  10. #10
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    Nice om te weet ons het sulke kundige mense op die site!!

  11. #11
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    Amazing work Regardt, well done and thank you!
    Even should I decide not to fix it (unlikely) at least we all know exactly what is going on now and can rest a little easier.

    I am curious to see everyone's solution to this now that we know what to do (sikaflex, pratley, flat bar etc) but i have a question for some of you:

    Those of us with big heavy BullBars obviously have a concern already i.c.w crumple zones when making contact with another solid object (ie head on collision)... so is the crumpling of the steering column as much of a concern in these instances?

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    Citi Golf vs Triton in headon collision?

    Collapsable steering vs fixed steering?

    Even my Colt vs Triton?

    I would think about it and make it a solid fix vs use sikaflex.....
    "Ability is what gives you the opportunity belief is what gets you there"

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    Another two questions;
    1. How would your insurers react? Obviously they would have to FIND what was done, which would be pretty unlikely... but if they do go over the car with a fine tooth comb after a crash and find that something was "fixed" they might reject a claim? To get even more negative... this would really suck if you were impaled by the column too and it was SWAMBO claiming
    2. If you have a 3rd party warranty provider... same thing... you have a steering issue, you claim, they send an assessor, find some homemade handiwork and VOILA they reject and you pay for everything yourself.

    Eish. decisions decisions.

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    At least you would not have to repair the steering column...

    So bietjie wiskunde... help my as ek verkeerd is...

    Shear strength = 0.6 x Tensile strength (for mild steel)
    Tensile strength = 800MPA -grade 8.8
    Thus Shear strength = 480 MPA

    Shear strength = Force (Newton) / Area
    Thus Force = Shear strength x Area.
    If you use a 2mm bolt the area will be Pi X Diameter^2 / 4 = 3.141 mm2
    Thus the Force required to shear the bolt will be 1508 Newton = 153 kg per bolt...
    However for a 1mm bolt it will be 38kg per bolt.

    Further, if you get a grade 4.8 bolt it would be 19kg per 1mm bolt... and 77kg per 2mm bolt.

    I would say drill a new hole, thread it and put on a 1mm bolt on a side. This will be strong enough to keep the stuff from moving and still break in an accident...

    If my brain did not freeze over...
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    And in an accident... What will be the force of your body on that steering ?? I would say AT LEAST 150kg ??
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    P.S. Dankie vir die berekeninge smiles
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  17. #17
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    Stem saam oor die 1mm boutjie en dis rerig nie baie nie. Die fors wat gebruik word om te breek vs die gom is uiteindelik die verskil.

    Die groot ding oor die stuur wat breek is om jou borskas en nek te red. Maar ek vra net weer hoeveel voertuie op die mark het rerig stuur meganismes wat breek? Jy is dalk net gelukkig oor jy 'n Triton ry.

    Maar die keuse is daar 1mm bout of weer net gom? Dalk sterker as wat Mitsubishi gebruik?
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    SinWolf, do you want to link this thread to the newtriton.net forum? I saw on the other thread you have registered there.
    Lets get the Aussies to throw some brainpower at it... hopefully they are better mechanics than they are rugby players and can give us some feedback as to whether this has been resolved over there.
    From what i have already searched on their forum, a lot of them have obviously experienced the knocking and have complained about it, but no one has offered a solution as yet.

    ... At the very least you will look like a hero in another country

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    Quote Originally Posted by NerdBakkie View Post
    SinWolf, do you want to link this thread to the newtriton.net forum? I saw on the other thread you have registered there.
    Lets get the Aussies to throw some brainpower at it... hopefully they are better mechanics than they are rugby players and can give us some feedback as to whether this has been resolved over there.
    From what i have already searched on their forum, a lot of them have obviously experienced the knocking and have complained about it, but no one has offered a solution as yet.

    ... At the very least you will look like a hero in another country

    I sleep at night.... NOT during the day....

    http://www.newtriton.net/phpbb/viewt...hp?f=23&t=7284
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    haha, k, guess i should have searched better
    I like their idea of a simple silicon adhesive to dampen the knocking... i would assume that the "Silastic" they are talking about is their equivalent to a normal black car silicone?
    It obviously wouldn't act as a serious adhesive, but could perhaps stop the annoying play and knocking...?
    My concern with a sikflex/pratley solution is that if it does eventually break... as it no doubt will after constant use and force after 10,000km's... then not only are you right back at square one, but you also have a mess of solid grey gunk that you have to file off.

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