How do you break a crank bolt?




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  1. #1
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    Default How do you break a crank bolt?

    Can someone explain to me how a crank bolt is broken? The story goes like this. I took ye trusty Gen 2 3.5 DOHC in to the workshop yesterday to have the new timing belt and associated goodies fitted. Phone them today and hear I should come have a look. Basically half the bolt is in the crank and the other half in the mechanics hand. It looks like there is rust on the bolt starting 1mm from where the bolt broke so it stands to reason it must have been like this for a while. It would also seem that the bit now outside the crank was held in place by about 1-2 rotations of thread. I was also shown some other bolts that was semi stripped. On the plus side, the belt looks like it was fitted yesterday so probably the previous-previous owner, about 30 000km ago fitted a new belt with a moegoe mechanic. Guess I should consider myself lucky then for doing proactive maintenance instead of getting stuck in the middle of the Kalahari.

  2. #2
    4ePajero Guest

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    4ePikanini is going to give you the full lecture on this one, with pictures.

  3. #3
    4ePikanini Guest

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    Good read here on extracting broken crank bolts on those engines

    Crank Bolt failure

    Those engines are notorious for that problem.

    Bolt has been revised twice

    old bolts are these - oldest on the left and first revision on the right



    The new 3500 bolt is LEFT - LL1100A141
    The New 3000 bolt is RIGHT - 1101A022



    this is based on info given by wincaps and mitsubishiparts.net


    Wincaps give this part number for the Gen2 3500 longwagon

    - 030313 - MD172725

    it looks like the OLD bolt on the right in the top picture



    when I enter the part number MD172725 into mitsubishiparts.net it gives this revised part number which is the bolt on the left in the picture above as mentioned part number - LL1100A141

    Last edited by 4ePikanini; 2009/10/29 at 05:49 PM.

  4. #4
    4ePikanini Guest

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    Quote Originally Posted by 4ePajero View Post
    4ePikanini is going to give you the full lecture on this one, with pictures.
    Am I that predictable

  5. #5
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    The one that came out is like the bolt on the right on the 1st pic.

  6. #6
    4ePikanini Guest

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    Quote Originally Posted by dehacked View Post
    The one that came out is like the bolt on the right on the 1st pic.
    Maybe that explains the breakage....

    I have updated my post above to to give the correct info

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    Quote Originally Posted by 4ePikanini View Post
    Am I that predictable
    Marius, of course you are.

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    Hello 4ePIKANINI

    I would like to ask you and any one out there for some advice.
    I decided to change my cam belt and water pump on my reciently bought 1999 Pajero 3500 DOHC long wheel base. I removed the front covers to a point where I can see the cambelt and it markings. When I alined the crank and the four cam markings the one on the left is out one tooth but the others look fine. The question is - should it be like that?
    The next question is do I have to remove the crank bolt - cant i just cut the bottom plastics and remove them - I know this sound bad but I have read some bad stuff about crank bolt removal. The pajero dealer mech. said i must use a socket and long bar and crank the engine over to undo the bolt. Any advice please - It must come off tomorrow.

  9. #9
    4ePikanini Guest

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    2600 bucks later I have my baby again. Runs smooth, pulls nicely. Just in time for the weekend and it looks like fun, erm, rain....

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    Do you think this mechanic lubed the new bolt before he fitted it ? ?

  12. #12
    4ePikanini Guest

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sneaky Pete View Post
    Do you think this mechanic lubed the new bolt before he fitted it ? ?
    Mitsubishi's TSB specifies that you should lube it with engine oil before install.

    Most shops use loctite

    My belt will be done by a workshop. I don't want to deal with a broken bolt or damaged threads.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 4ePikanini View Post
    Mitsubishi's TSB specifies that you should lube it with engine oil before install.

    Most shops use loctite
    If I remember correct, those bolts have torque setting. Bolts with a torque setting is rated metal on metal, DRY. If you apply any sort of lubrication you will overtighten the bolt which could lead to premature failure. Odd that Mitsubishi would go against this.
    Sakkie Coetzee

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  14. #14
    4ePikanini Guest

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sakkie View Post
    If I remember correct, those bolts have torque setting. Bolts with a torque setting is rated metal on metal, DRY. If you apply any sort of lubrication you will overtighten the bolt which could lead to premature failure. Odd that Mitsubishi would go against this.
    It is strange, but that is mitsubishi's bulletin.

    PDF bulletin here

  15. #15
    4ePikanini Guest

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    And another detailed bulletin attached here.
    Attached Images Attached Images

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    dag sakkie ek is lang*at Willie se broer ,en jy ken dai storie van met geweld kan jy jou vinger ook afdraai (grappie )

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    EK DOEN vra maar vir Willie, ek kry dit heel gereeld reg
    Sakkie Coetzee

    Some people say I have a "short temper"....I see it as swift and assertive reaction to Bull!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Aubrey van Rooyen View Post
    en jy ken dai storie van met geweld kan jy jou vinger ook afdraai

    Onthou net! Met geduld, kan jy hom daar uithaal!


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  19. #19
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    If it was over torqued before maybe several times before thats why it broke.Stretch bolts that should actually be replaced.
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    Well, about 500km's and it still hasn't fallen out. The shop did use loctite. Bit to late for me to complain about it now. Besides, I'd rather have a stuck bolt than a fallen out bolt. On a side note, I went for a joyride this weekend. 90-110km/h, trying to maintain 100. Got 9.6km/l. Stock standard with 2.2 bar tyres, 2l Delo 400, new T/Case oil and a very gentle foot. Wondering if I still should do 63mm free flow pipe and box for improved consumption...

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