Fixing my old/new Pajero - pic intensive - Page 8




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  1. #141
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    I agree. That circlip is there to prevent teh shaft from going deeper in the CV. Jank the shaft (make sure the bokkies are secure). An inner circlip will dislodge and the shaft should get out. To put it back in you just hit the shaft with a soft-headed mallet until the inner circlip fits in its groove.

    Does the whole inner CV not bolt onto the gearbox shaft? Unbolt it then you can work on it on the bench.

    Good luck

  2. #142
    4ePikanini Guest

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rockett View Post
    I agree. That circlip is there to prevent teh shaft from going deeper in the CV. Jank the shaft (make sure the bokkies are secure). An inner circlip will dislodge and the shaft should get out. To put it back in you just hit the shaft with a soft-headed mallet until the inner circlip fits in its groove.

    Does the whole inner CV not bolt onto the gearbox shaft? Unbolt it then you can work on it on the bench.

    Good luck
    - it was late last night and the grey stuff was shutting down.

    That makes sense. That circlip is not really important. I got to get that assembly out.

    Thanks.

  3. #143
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    Glad I'm not the only one this has happened to. How many times have I pulled, hit, twisted something to get it off only to discover the next morning one small screw holding everything nicely together.

  4. #144
    4ePikanini Guest

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    spray tierod and a-arm balljoints with penetrating oil spray and leave overnight

    Loosen wheel nuts
    Jack up car and support on struts
    Take the wheel off
    take the dustcap off
    take the shaft circlip off
    take cotter pins off the 3 balljoints
    loosen 3 balljoint nuts but leave screwed on at least half the thread to catch the removal of the joints
    remove 2 bolts holding brake caliper
    move caliper out of the way and tie up with string - DO NOT let it hang by the brake line.
    remove tierod balljoint with puller or 2m leverage and 70kg followed by a smack with a big hammer
    jack up lower control arm and hit bottom balljoint with a big hammer to get bottom balljoint out OR use puller
    leverage top a-arm down and smack top balljoint with big hammer to get top balljoint loose
    knuckle can now come out.

    a slight pull on the green part will let the rest of the shaft out.

    disassemble ( pretty easy to figure out ) and clean with diesel. - I didn't take the balls out as they were still tightly seated ( but spun freely )
    clean really good

    re-assemble working clean but applying liberal amounts of proper CV grease - usually dark grey in colour.

    I used my fingers to squeze in between the ball cage and then packed it FULL of grease.
    Put everything back together.

    Clean the balljoint threads with a rag.

    Tighten to torque specs
    work your way up the torque specs - I incremented in 15Nm values. That way you can feel if the bolt is just stretching before reaching torque. That is when you should stop. don't keep tightening if you don't reach torque. If you are close then that's fine.










    Last edited by 4ePikanini; 2009/10/27 at 10:05 PM.

  5. #145
    4ePikanini Guest

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    Forgot to mention that I'm astounded by the build quality of the mitsu. After 260'000km the components doesn't show any noticeable signs of wear.

    When I wiped and cleaned them before assembly they looked like new.

    I'm sure it will last me a long time.

  6. #146
    4ePikanini Guest

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    pulled the radiator today as I need to get the bottom spout re-aligned. The previous shop that re-cored didn't put it where it was so now the bottom hose has a kink in it and I don't like that. It probably restricts flow and I don't want a brand new engine overheating for the trail on 5 December.










  7. #147
    4ePikanini Guest

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    I had the bottom spout re-aligned today to take the kink out. I thought it would be absolutely pointless and fun to make a time lapse of the re-install.

    Hope it's entertaining

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JQwx2ZERHjk
    Last edited by 4ePikanini; 2009/11/09 at 09:19 PM.

  8. #148
    4ePikanini Guest

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    operating temp and test drive.

    No leaks. Jippeee!

  9. #149
    Join Date
    May 2009
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    durbanville
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    Jy werk lekker vinnig.
    Amarok Bitdi 8spd Auto
    DRAGON 29 Mhz
    General Grabbers
    Starting with the mods

  10. #150
    4ePikanini Guest

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    It was a 40minute video crammed into 75 seconds.

  11. #151
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    Jun 2009
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    Germiston
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    Nice one. How is she driving by the way?

  12. #152
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    Mooi man, lyk goed!

    SUSPENSION FOR THE FUTURE
    www.amadaxtreme.co.za S2551'50.2 E2809'58.2
    Diamond Park nr2, 86 Jakaranda Str, Hennopspark, Centurion

    Cobus Bohmer - 071 641 7947 cobus@amadaxtreme.co.za

  13. #153
    4ePikanini Guest

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mortiis View Post
    Nice one. How is she driving by the way?
    Very nice! I want to drive it all the time but with a 19l/100km consumption I'm still driving the jetta regularly

    I'm impressed by how much it handles like a car and not a truck.

    I have also chirped the tyres once ( unexpectedly ) by pulling away hard around a corner. My guess is that the LSD has something to do with that....

    Quote Originally Posted by Navigator View Post
    Mooi man, lyk goed!
    Baie dankie.

  14. #154
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    I think you might be right. I also have LSD on the back and hard pull away while turning does the same on mine.
    Glad she is going well!

  15. #155
    4ePikanini Guest

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mortiis View Post
    I think you might be right. I also have LSD on the back and hard pull away while turning does the same on mine.
    Glad she is going well!
    I would love to see a test where it shows the amount of slip allowed.

  16. #156
    4ePikanini Guest

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    Finally took pics of the old parts


    clutch plate engine side


    clutch plate gearbox side



    misc parts - numbered for future reference


    oil pump



    piston side view


    piston top


    pressure plate



    pressure plate


    thermostat


    thrust bearing that came with the luk clutch kit - I put a genuine mitsu in


    Exhaust valve


    waterpump
    Last edited by 4ePikanini; 2009/11/15 at 09:54 PM.

  17. #157
    4ePikanini Guest

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    Made a collage for the fun of it.



  18. #158
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    Pretoria
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    And how was that done? It's nice!

  19. #159
    4ePikanini Guest

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    Quote Originally Posted by bushcamp View Post
    And how was that done? It's nice!
    PM sent

  20. #160
    4ePikanini Guest

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    Dad gave me a hand over the weekend to change the pitman arm.

    He also lent me some $ to put fresh rubber on. Thanks dad! ( Hope that's not the reason you are selling the family heirloom )




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