Fixing my old/new Pajero - pic intensive - Page 3




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  1. #41
    Join Date
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    but I can't go grinding my spanner 10o'clock at night now, can I?)
    Not just a technical brainbox but well brought up as well
    * "Wat Spike probeer sÍ in sy min woorde" -Die Skim "
    .................................................. .....

  2. #42
    4ePikanini Guest

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    Quote Originally Posted by Spike View Post
    Not just a technical brainbox but well brought up as well
    brought up by the best but, that wasn't my initial thought......

    my initial thought was..........




    SWAMBO.....

  3. #43
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    I "borrowed" this table from the SABS - you may find it helpful:
    Attached Files Attached Files
    Last edited by Diversions; 2009/08/27 at 10:15 AM. Reason: Uploaded Table
    2012 Pajero GLX 3.2 DiD
    2011 Jimny
    Forum Radio Licence 1037

  4. #44
    4ePikanini Guest

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    Thanks Diversions

    I have checked the voltage drop between battery and spotlight and it only drops 0.02Volts - I think that is acceptable considering the +- 1.5m wiring and relay and crimped connections.

    I have put a 20 Amp fuse inline ( ammeter shows 18.3 Amps between battery terminal and furthest point on wiring before it branches to the spots ) to be sure it blows if there is increased temp ( and do what I may it doesn't blow ).

    I have left the spots on for 5 minutes and felt the connections at all the lugs and connections and nowhere can I feel the slightest raised temp so I think I should be ok.

  5. #45
    4ePikanini Guest

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    I'm getting the engine back tomorrow or next week. I would like to start getting an idea of things to look out for.

    Things I'm wondering about are

    * Should the oil pump be primed?
    * Should I spray some lubricant down the spark plug holes for the first start?
    * Should the fuel rail and pipes be primed?
    * and then the always debatable starting procedure

  6. #46
    4ePajero Guest

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    Quote Originally Posted by 4ePikanini View Post
    1. Should the oil pump be primed?
    2. Should I spray some lubricant down the spark plug holes for the first start?
    3. Should the fuel rail and pipes be primed?
    4. and then the always debatable starting procedure
    1. Yes. Crank without spark plugs until oil pressure is OK.

    2. Rather oil the bore. The rings are lubricated when fitted.

    3. Yes, if possible, to get air out of the system.

    4. Once the oil pressure is up, start and run at fast idle. Check for leaks and sparks . Listen for 'funny' noises.

  7. #47
    4ePikanini Guest

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    Quote Originally Posted by 4ePajero View Post

    1. Yes. Crank without spark plugs until oil pressure is OK.
    This is the main one that worries me as I know some vehicles's oil pumps will not pump sufficiently from fresh install if not oiled properly between gears. The have to be covered in oil.

    I suppose I will just double check with the workshop and make sure he oiled the gears prior to install.



    Quote Originally Posted by 4ePajero View Post

    2. Rather oil the bore. The rings are lubricated when fitted.
    I suppose this will have to be done at the workshop as well before the sump gets sealed, and they will get splashed with the 'cold' cranking.

  8. #48
    4ePikanini Guest

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    I just spoke to the workshop.

    It would have been done but they got the wrong rings. Going out now to have a look.

  9. #49
    4ePikanini Guest

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    Went to have a look at the nearly-done motor. Spoke to the workshop and they said they oil it properly and rotate the oil pump until oil is flowing out of all the passages so that made me sleep better

    Sorry about the bad quality cell pics








  10. #50
    4ePikanini Guest

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    I also saw the lifters and they are the new type with the big hole - which explains why they were quiet when I got the car regardless of the negligence by the previous owner.

    They look like this one

  11. #51
    4ePikanini Guest

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    Slightly off-topic but I thought I would share

    - while chatting away at the workshop I asked them out of curiosity how many 3.2 DiD engines or heads have they seen as they are pretty popular now.
    They were so unfamiliar with it that they asked me .......

    ".....who makes the engine? Toyota? ......."
    This makes me believe the 3.2 DiD is showing up to be a reliable engine.

    They also mentioned that Toyota VVT engines were the ones they get the most of ( due to oil pump failure )
    - this could be due to the fact that Toyota is a popular car around here and get abused a lot by the taxi business

  12. #52
    Join Date
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    A quick tip about oil pump priming.

    You can pack the gears with vaseline prior to assembly. It makes for a quick build up of pressure and the oil dissolves the vaseline without any harmful side effects.
    2015 Mahindra Bolero SC 2.5 NEF TCI 4x4 (Ratchet & Clank)
    2007 Mercedes Benz ML500 5.5
    1968 VW Beetle 2276

  13. #53
    4ePikanini Guest

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    Vaseline contains water. Id rather not.

  14. #54
    4ePajero Guest

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    Quote Originally Posted by 4ePikanini View Post
    Vaseline contains water. Id rather not.
    I think not!

  15. #55
    4ePikanini Guest

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    Quote Originally Posted by 4ePajero View Post
    I think not!
    Oops.

    Sorry koebelwagen.


    Update


    • reverse lights are now functional after I put the washer back in.
    • final invoice is R10'300 - incl parts, labour, clutch & parts - I supplied t-belt, crank bolt, t-belt tensioner.
    • insurance paid out so I bought my new camera - Kodak Z8612 IS - so pictures will follow again shortly - when my bandwidth is back on tuesday - took me 24 minutes to send this post from my phone.

    Last edited by 4ePikanini; 2009/08/31 at 08:59 AM.

  16. #56
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    No harm done Mr. Fourie.

    I wouldn't knowingly put bad info onto this site.

    I know vaseline works as I have tried it in a R80k high performance engine.

    You can also use Wynns Charge as it is almost as thick as honey and will disolve in normal oil.
    2015 Mahindra Bolero SC 2.5 NEF TCI 4x4 (Ratchet & Clank)
    2007 Mercedes Benz ML500 5.5
    1968 VW Beetle 2276

  17. #57
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    Default why copper grease?

    "Points where I applied some copper grease before reassembly"

    I was wondering why you used copper grease?
    2013 Amarok d/c TDI 103kw 4motion
    stuff I have in the classifieds | the story of my dad

  18. #58
    4ePikanini Guest

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    Quote Originally Posted by phuma View Post
    "Points where I applied some copper grease before reassembly"

    I was wondering why you used copper grease?
    oh yes. 4ePajero has shown me that error.


    Copper grease is not for moving parts so I will open and use normal grease instead before assembly.

    NOT on the brushes though. They will stay clean without any grease.

  19. #59
    4ePikanini Guest

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    preliminary cost breakdown so far

    This excludes ( i'll add this week - need to hunt for the invoices )

    bumper rear lights
    wipe cloths
    extra 12 & 14 spanner
    extra 22 spanner - transmission bolts on top.
    work light globes - they go quickly - i got a low efficiency now that seems to give good service - the tungsten just can't handle the bumps.
    spotlights
    battery
    2x jerry cans
    1x bottle jack
    oils & filters
    wires, relays & crimping lugs


  20. #60
    4ePajero Guest

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    Maybe split parts & labour?

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