Troubleshooting 4x4 Super select lights




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  1. #1
    4ePikanini Guest

    Default Troubleshooting 4x4 Super select lights

    From fiddling around at all the systems I thought I should put it all together in a DIY write-up

    If you have a mechanical problem ( flashing lights) then you should have a look here -
    http://www.pajeroclub.co.za/forum/vi....php?f=52&t=42

    This is merely my electrical fix as my lights wasn't working properly
    NB: Please go through the whole thread before starting so you have a good idea of what to expect and where to be careful.

    Gain access to the 4x4 lights control module
    It is easy to access if you remove the front panel ( 2 screws on top part - look from a low down angle ) and the radio





    NB : remeber to perform these tests with the ignition in the correct position

    ** don't mind the green and red marks as this was my troubleshooting findings **



    should you pass all these tests then you need to check the bulbs - further down the page

    If you don't pass then check the working of your lights by grounding the wires going to the transmission switches
    - If you don't get these results, you have a break in the wiring and need to trace the fault or replace the wiring

    NB: remember to have the ignition in the 'ON' position




    These results relate to the above image




    here is another reference pic not related to the above results




    ***I did not comment on the rear wheel lights as they should always be on with the ignition.***



    I managed to fix my number 5 switch by turning the washer around as the previous person tightened it so tight that it deformed the washer slightly

    NOTES on number 5 switch

    * It is a pin type switch
    * at rest position = no continuity between thread and wire
    * between 1mm - 4mm pin pressed into switch = continuity between thread and wire
    * pressed in further than 4mm = no continuity between thread and wire

    Thus the washer thickness is of extreme importance

    NB : Number 1 switch is a ball switch



    To gain access to the bulbs
    SWITCH THE IGNITION OFF! (or disconnect the battery as a better option - remember your radio code and alarm repercussions if you disconnect the battery)

    remove the cluster cover - 2 screw in front on the sides and 1 screw at the back underneath a little cover
    NB : you need a stubby screwdriver to get to the back screw
    NB : throw a cloth over the back vents as a screw down there will spoil your evening

    slowly remove the cover and disconnect the wiring of the switches ( fogs, hazards, *cruise, rear window heater ) at the back of the cluster - be careful as you don't want to damage any wiring
    NB: ALL the connections have some sort of button you need to push before taking out the wiring plug



    Then you need to remove all the small screws holding the cluster cover on ( Not the 3 big ones yet )
    NB : a good magnet tipped screwdriver is crucial - a screw dropped is not fun!

    once those screws are out you can gently remove the plastic cover THEN the black cover THEN the clear plastic over the 4x4 lights and THEN the black film over the 4x4 lights - it should come off VERY easily.

    NB: You cannot replace the bulbs at this point as you need to gain access from the back - Trust me on this one

    You can now unscrew the big three screws to loosen the cluster.
    NB : a good magnet tipped screwdriver is crucial - a screw dropped is not fun!

    I pulled the right side of the cluster slightly forward to loosen the 2 connectors there first
    NB: be gentle as the wiring board at the back is actually a thin film ( see picture below )

    I then GENTLY loosened the other side connectors
    NB: There are 2 big connectors left
    NB: There are 2 big connectors right
    NB: a single spade type connector ( not marked in the image ) on the left
    NB: the speedo drive is just loose and should EASILY slide out
    NB: ONCE AGAIN THE CONNECTORS HAVE BUTTONS TO PRESS TO GET THEM OUT - IF YOU FORCE YOU WILL BREAK THE WHOLE CLUSTER - I WARNED YOU!!!!!

    You can then gain access to the bulbs with the cluster out - simply give a slight twist clockwise ( I found needle nose pliers useful here )
    The bulbs simply pull out of the black plastic seater with a bit of persuasion ( i wish i had rubber tipped pliers as it took ages trying to pull it out with my thumb and fore finger - IF YOU TRY PLIERS THEY WILL POP - I WARNED YOU AGAIN! )

    You can then replace them and put everything back together ( ala haynes - 'assembly is reverse of removal' )
    NB: I just swapped in the A/T temp and diff lock bulbs as I don't have either ( You can try the cruise control bulb as well )











    FINAL RESULT



    This should maybe be stickied
    Last edited by 4ePikanini; 2009/11/15 at 09:30 PM.

  2. #2
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    yes good post,for the colts the ecu testing diagrams is all you need .test each terminal as it says and you will find the problem.Also test each switch as well.Then look the wires and air pipes.Can all be done i about 2hours with a buddy.
    Ford F250 v8 37' super swamper boggers ,
    Ford F250 V8 35's Maxxis ,
    Colt 4x4 2.8

  3. #3
    4ePikanini Guest

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    I did all my tests alone and wasn't too hard. A helper will make it slightly easier but not a necessity.

    I just had a wire bolted to ground and inserted the end into the switches connections.

    The exercise by crawling underneath and then crawling back out to check the dash is good for me - although swambo helped a couple of times as well.

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    Thank you, thank you, thank you, once again I bow to the fount of knowledge. Mine are working intermittently and this will really help! Now I know why I belong to this forum!!
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------
    Mitsubishi Pajero 2.8

  5. #5
    4ePikanini Guest

    Default

    The key to getting into these things is to step back often and just re-look what you are doing to see.....

    if it has to be done?
    are you on the right track?
    is there a simpler way?

  6. #6
    4ePajero Guest

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    Can we have this thread as 'sticky' in the Mitsu Section, please.

  7. #7
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    Hi Guys

    My technical knowledge is rather limited so even though im on the forum constantly i never give my two cents worth because of my limited knowledge .I have the lights flashing issue as well and decided to use the mechanical link to troubleshoot my issue .Huge mistake ,I &^%$ up my 4 wheel drive system .4x4 will not engange anymore (it used to)

    This is the story .
    My upper lights were flashing in 2H and all lights were burning in 4H ,when difflock was engaged the diff light was constantly burning and engaged no problem.
    Now when engaging 4h the car loses power and starts making a grinding noise .When engaging 2H it stays the same .When i stop i hear a ""click" and i can continue driving in 2H.

    What i did was switch around the blue and yellow vacuum hoses around ,switch on the car to check the lights (still flashing in 2h) switch off the car and replaced the hoses to original .checked all the vacuum hoses are not leaking or torn etc and went for a drive around the block. Thats when the issues started.

    I tried everything i could (as in the troubleshooting guide) no luck .

  8. #8
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    Sorry ,posted before i was finished ,what i noticed was that the actuator rod barely moves 2 mm when i tried to move it .Is this normal ? or should it move easily a cm or two ? i also hev not yet tried to remove and check the freewheel engage switch ,needed to get to work Please ,any ideas would be a great help
    Thanks

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    Blegh i'm a idiot ,1998 swb 3liter v6 , (I think )Gen 2.5 Blister fender 12valve model .

  10. #10
    4ePikanini Guest

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    Most often the flashing light problem is an easy fix, primarily it happens because the 4wd system has not been regularly used. The 4wd must to be used regularly and exercised to keep it in good working order.

    Assuming it's a Mk 1/2, the green lights are flashing because the system thinks that the front axle freewheel unit is still engaged and is trying to disengage it (or vice versa).

    The system is operated via vacuum created by running engine (for petrol models) and is controlled by switches and electric solenoid valves. The solenoid valves on the bulkhead in front of the driver typically near the master cylinder. In turn they are connect to the actuator on the front axle by a mixture of steel and rubber piping. Once engaged (or disengaged) the position is verified by the free wheel sensor switch.

    Sometimes something simple, such as reversing a few metres helps dis-engagement with wheels straight helps too.

    Actuator and shaft
    Mount on the front differential, the actuator and shaft (covered with rubber boot) should be clean and free. Grease the actuator shaft under the rubber boot - they can seize and give a permanent flashing lights.

    The actuator is circular shape, about 50mm in diameter.

    Find someone you trust, lie under the car with the engine running while the "trusted" driver moves the transfer gear box (t-case) lever in and out of 4wd - you should see the shaft move.

    If it is not moving is probably seized from lack of use, carefully pull back the rubber boot and get some grease on the actuator rod. Try and slide it - it should move fairly easily if you jack a wheel and turn it a bit.

    If the shaft still doesn't move freely, pull each vacuum connection, and test if one, or other is sucking! (wise to ensure that the person behind the wheel knows what they are doing! - handbrake applied and auto in Park of course).

  11. #11
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    Thanks , my shaft is pressing into the actuator (if memory serves fully extended) and is clean but not greased ,I sprayed q10 where it comes out to see if i can slide it .Couldn't .My wheels weren't Jacked up though .

  12. #12
    4ePikanini Guest

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    remember to have engine running to create the vacuum necessary ( and electrics for solenoids ) to actuate the front actuator.

  13. #13
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    It was not running when i tried to move the shaft ,I will try that tonight .Do you have any idea what the noise could be when i try and engage 4H when driving and what could be the loss of power ? It feels like a clutch is slipping and not engaging properly .

  14. #14
    4ePikanini Guest

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    it could be low oil in transfer case.

  15. #15
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    I checked the oil two weeks ago ,was running out of the inspection screw ,and no leaks .

  16. #16
    4ePikanini Guest

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    did you check gearbox & transfer case?

    it could the transfer case chain that is stretched or maybe the front diff is dry causing the drag.

  17. #17
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    I checked all the fluids ,front diff ,gearbox ,Transfer case ,and rear diff. So the fluids should be ok .What worries me is when i fiddled around with the sensors and the vacuum hoses in front this happened. Could i have inadvertantly swopped the vacuum pipes around and this Broke the engaging system ? I'm sure i didin't but theres always a chance

  18. #18
    4ePikanini Guest

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  19. #19
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    Thank you VERY MUCH .I'll try and troubleshoot this as soon as i figure it out I really hope that this is the problem and not something worse .I also found this troubleshooter to try out .

    I had a similar problem with my pajero/montero io, when I released 4WD from 4H to 2H the two front wheels lights started flashing. They stopped flashing and was solid on when I re-engaged the 4WD (2H to 4H).
    My problem was a failure in the 2H solenoid, it was not producing enough vacuum. The problem was intermitent at the begining and then was permanent. This is only for front green lights flashing.
    I checked the solenoids in this way:
    1) The solenoid that receives the vacuum in the botton is for 2H
    2) The solenoid that receives the vacuum in the top is for 4H
    3) Both solenoids operate in the same way, they only change in the way they transfering vacuum from top/botton to the exit pipe (2H or 4H). The difference is that one has the vacuum input on the top and the another one in the botton.
    4) The default position when you disconnect the electronics is 4WD
    5) Try disconnecting the electronics and switching the output pipe between the solenoids. This will put the solenoids on 4WD position and you changed the pipes, so the 4WD should disengage.
    4WD should disengage if your 4H solenoid is OK, the ligths should now flash when you change from 2H to 4H because 4WD cannot engage because the pipes are switched. You can also check the vacuum of each solenoid with your finger on each one.
    If this doesn't work, try to bypass the solenoids and connect the input vacuum hose to the 2H output pipe. If the lights doesn't turn off in 2H mode it's posible that you have different problem.

  20. #20
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    Is it possible to get to the switches without dropping the gearbox?

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