Dual Battery set up. - Page 5




Page 5 of 5 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 5
Results 81 to 83 of 83
  1. #81
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Port Elizabeth
    Age
    54
    Posts
    481
    Thanked: 30

    Default Re: Dual Battery set up.

    Quote Originally Posted by Die SwartKat View Post
    Ok, I am no expert but I have done two of my own systems before.

    Also, my setup does not include the smart pass.

    So if I understand you correctly then:

    - 1st Aux will be in the engine bay;
    - 2nd Aux is in vehicle behind front seat;
    - These two will be connected in parallel with thick cabling;
    - The Ctek D250S will then be connected to the 2nd Aux in the vehicle with the heat probe at its + terminal

    If this is correct, then I cant see a problem apart from only one possible one. Might be a very small one.

    My thinking is this, and the experts must please assist here or correct me if I'm wrong.

    The D250S monitors the heat of the 2nd Aux (which should be very happy inside the vehicle) and constantly adjusts its charging current to ensure it is optimally charged.

    But, "half" of this happy battery is in the engine bay in the form of the 1st Aux. The D250S wont know this though. It sees only one battery.

    A battery that gets warm charges less well and slower. Well this on its own might not be a problem (batteries are in engine compartments all the time), the D250S might be merrily charging away on the cooler 2nd Aux, while the 1st Aux is taking strain as a result of this higher charging rate whilst it is much hotter and actually requires a slower rate of charging.

    Something could even go wrong with the 1st Aux and this may affect your 2nd Aux and you might find that the 2nd Aux also will not charge well.

    If the 1st Aux is completely buggered for some or other reason and you don't know this, it might even cause your 2nd Aux to heat up. Guessing here and I could be completely wrong, but this is the only small issue you might have.

    Ideally speaking those two batteries should at least be in the same environment so that their ambient temperature is the same.


    Ps. Also (but this is just me) I would not want a battery inside the vehicle with me. If something goes wrong in the way it charges and it heats up, there will be excessive gassing which is released into the vehicle which is a potential fire hazard and no doubt poisoness. Also, if not properly secured and tied down, it will become a lethal projectile in the event of a crash or roll over.
    You are 100% correct in your analysis. In addition the D250S ideally needs to "see" the same cable length to each battery.

  2. The Following User Says Thank You to mygoggie For This Useful Post:


  3. #82
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Muizenberg
    Age
    27
    Posts
    10
    Thanked: 0

    Default Re: Dual Battery set up.

    Hi Nico

    Cheers for the help!!!

    1st Aux will be in the engine bay;
    - 2nd Aux is in vehicle behind front seat;
    - These two will be connected in parallel with thick cabling;
    - The Ctek D250S will then be connected to the 2nd Aux in the vehicle with the heat probe at its + terminal

    This is all spot on! Well initially I noticed that both the D250S and the smart pass have temp sensors so I would of sent one to each battery (extending one).
    But you do make a very good point. So could we then agree that both temp sensors need to be placed on the battery that would be in the harshest environment? And in doing so does this then mitigate and bring in some kind of safety factor regarding the 2nd Aux battery in the cabin compartment.
    In theory the 2nd Aux battery will then have a much easier life and hopefully this will decrease the chance off failure?

    And another question regarding 2 batteries connected in Parallel.
    Can I connect accessories to 1Aux and 2Aux positive terminals?

    Aux1 Positive Battery terminal =Stereo/amp, VHF, Dash 12v charging
    Aux2 Positive Battery terminal = CTEK System /NL60/Engel40/distribution box for 12volt lights/pumps
    CTEK Non critical load output =Inverter Note that the unit will isolate automatically when volts drop below 11.5

    Find pictures attached

    Cheers

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Screen Shot 2018-05-23 at 19.37.41.png 
Views:	23 
Size:	1.52 MB 
ID:	489703   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Screen Shot 2018-05-23 at 19.57.29.png 
Views:	20 
Size:	595.6 KB 
ID:	489704   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Screen Shot 2018-05-23 at 20.02.28.png 
Views:	20 
Size:	483.0 KB 
ID:	489705   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Screen Shot 2018-05-23 at 20.02.10.png 
Views:	19 
Size:	493.7 KB 
ID:	489706  

  4. #83
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Johannesburg
    Age
    64
    Posts
    1,842
    Thanked: 298

    Default Re: Dual Battery set up.

    Die Swart Kat, Volkswagen Beetles of the 60s and 70s had their batteries under the rear seats and the only issue there ever was when the person fitting or refitting the battery was too lazy to tie it down with the tie-downs as provided. The battery terminals would touch the metal frame of the seat when the battery bounced over bad surfaces and this sometimes caused a fire inside a car when the Coir (Klapperhaar) stuffing of the seat ignited. The modern Mercedes Benz SUV vehicles also have their batteries under the front seats and so did and do some Land Rovers.

    The battery does give off some gas (Hydrogen?) and it does sometimes explode in very confined battery boxes (caused by a spark in the engine bay igniting the gas in the confined box, and that in turn, igniting the gas INSIDE the battery as well) on the Golfs of the late 90s (maybe later ones too) where there could be a concentrated collection of gas, but the interior of a vehicle is generally too well ventilated for this gas build-up to become volatile.
    Last edited by mvcoller; Today at 11:13 AM.
    Malcolm van Coller - retired but remained living in Johannesburg (love it here, can find everything you want and need here in Jhb)
    2011 Nissan Pathfinder 2,5 CDi LE Manual (Standard Traction Control plus Front Diff Locker)
    2008 Nissan Patrol 3.0 TDi GL (Packing system, 60lt water tank, std rear locker, LOKKA on front, two 105ah aux batteries on NL system, larger Cirrus intercooler, complete 76mm exhaust system)
    2003 Bushwakka Shorti (extra luggage space for customers on when on safari (with 160 H/Moon Star Gazer RTT and 100lt water tanks)
    Ex 1999 Nissan Terrano 2.7 TDi (Limited Slip Diffs Front and Rear) with Jurgens RTT for Guiding trips
    Ex 2011 Conqueror Supra II for personal camping
    Ex 1995 GQ Patrol GLX 3 speed Auto (disaster that box was!) - Lexus V8 transplant
    Ex 1984 Nissan Safari (Poelies Vehn) 2.8 Stationwagon with 5 speed conversion, rusted like it was paid to rust!
    Ex 1995 Sani 3.0 V6 Exec
    Ex 1994 Venture 2200 with lock diff (Company vehicle) that whet my appetite for overlanding.
    Many 4x4s in National Service (Landies, Jeeps, Willys, Bedfords, Unimogs and Buffels)

Page 5 of 5 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 5

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •