East African Odyssey. Road trip NBO through Tanzania and back to Uganda.




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  1. #1
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    Default East African Odyssey. Road trip NBO through Tanzania and back to Uganda.

    As promised earlier this year when taking advice on possible routes, here is my account of our recent trip (September 2017) through East Africa.<br>
    Brief details: a party of 3 wazungu of a certain age and a more youthful driver who doubles as a great guide and expert birder.<br>
    The idea was to visit the David Sheldrick Trust's properties in Tsavo and then take a circuitous route back to our driver's base in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest in Uganda.<br>
    We are not devoted campers and so we relied on Lodges for R&amp;R and by and large the plan worked well. This is not intended to be a blow by blow, animal sighting by animal sighting report so stop reading if this was your wish.<br>
    I am simply aiming to advise the route conditions as we found them for those who may wish to undertake similar trips later.<br>
    The first stop was obviously in Nairobbery where we stayed at Hotel Troy at a reasonable rate for two nights whilst meeting our friend Emmy the driver/guide/expert and picking up supplies for the self catering part of the trip.<br>
    <br>
    Nairobi is the usual chaotic place it always was although roads are in better condition and the new By pass (through the NP) certainly makes a great difference in accessing JKIA and the Mombassa road.<br>
    <img src="http://www.4x4community.co.za/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=464029&amp;stc=1" attachmentid="464029" alt="" id="vbattach_464029" class="previewthumb"><br>
    The Mombasa road was in good condition, it ought to be after all that work and money, and it was the crazy traffic that more exercised our minds. Good progress was made to Sultan Hamud where more shopping at the roadside stalls for fresh fruit and vegetable took place.<br>
    <br>
    <img src="http://www.4x4community.co.za/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=464030&amp;stc=1" attachmentid="464030" alt="" id="vbattach_464030" class="previewthumb"><br>
    From Sultan Hamud we continued almost to Kibwezi where we turned off south over a dirt road to the DSWT property at Umani Springs.<br>
    NB. Garmin will try and direct you to a track that is gated and locked. Ignore this if heading east and await another track, clearly signed to Umani.<br>
    The track to Umani is rough in parts as it is founded on lava flow and rock so take care. Umani Springs is a lovely property set in tidy grounds and an ideal place to unwind for a few days. There is also access to the small herd of orphaned Elephants currently being rehabilitated into the wild as part of the DSWT work.<br>
    After Umani and a further supply stop in Kibwezi (mainly for diesel as the next supply will be in Voi after many kms through Tsavo.) we headed north for Ithumba in the previously closed section of Tsavo East NP. Keeping out of the park until over the Yatta plateau and pass, where work is progressing, the roads were rough but not too bad for the 90km since the tar at Kibwezi.<br>
    We rested at Ithumba in very nice tents whilst visiting the main DSWT stockade and release point. Take care after the Gate as there are many elephants around and the thick bush is quite close to the road making sighting very last minute.<br>
    Our stay here was for five nights and quite a unique experience. Self catering of course using the maxim supplies in and rubbish out!<br>
    Total distance to date a meagre 300km mostly on tar.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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    Albert

    Progress might have been alright once, but it has gone on too long.

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  3. #2
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    Default Re: East African Odyssey. Road trip NBO through Tanzania and back to Uganda.

    Hi Albert,

    Thanks for that, a bit difficult to read, I guess something went wrong with copy/paste as all the machine formatting instructions are in the text.

    Any chance for an edited version?
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    Default Re: East African Odyssey. Road trip NBO through Tanzania and back to Uganda.

    Thank you, Albert, for posting the first part of your trip (to the lovely David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust's Umani Springs and Ithumba). Just to be pedantic ... the road from Kibwezi heading north to Ithumba and Kitui is outside Tsavo East National Park and has always been a public road.

    Looking forward to reading about the rest of your East African road trip.

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    Default Re: East African Odyssey. Road trip NBO through Tanzania and back to Uganda.

    Quote Originally Posted by Kalahari Safari View Post
    Hi Albert,

    Thanks for that, a bit difficult to read, I guess something went wrong with copy/paste as all the machine formatting instructions are in the text.

    Any chance for an edited version?
    Tell me about it. This was the third attempt. the 'maps' were inserted at the correct place in the text but after posting they appear at the end. Something at the 4x4 end of things I fear. I have just had to log on whereas I normally get straight through.
    Gremlins in RSA.
    4th try,
    ""As promised earlier this year when taking advice on possible routes, here is my account of our recent trip (September 2017) through East Africa.
    Brief details: a party of 3 wazungu of a certain age and a more youthful driver who doubles as a great guide and expert birder.
    The idea was to visit the David Sheldrick Trust's properties in Tsavo and then take a circuitous route back to our driver's base in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest in Uganda.
    We are not devoted campers and so we relied on Lodges for R&amp;R and by and large the plan worked well. This is not intended to be a blow by blow, animal sighting by animal sighting report so stop reading if this was your wish.
    I am simply aiming to advise the route conditions as we found them for those who may wish to undertake similar trips later.
    The first stop was obviously in Nairobbery where we stayed at Hotel Troy at a reasonable rate for two nights whilst meeting our friend Emmy the driver/guide/expert and picking up supplies for the self catering part of the trip.

    Nairobi is the usual chaotic place it always was although roads are in better condition and the new By pass (through the NP) certainly makes a great difference in accessing JKIA and the Mombassa road.

    The Mombasa road was in good condition, it ought to be after all that work and money, and it was the crazy traffic that more exercised our minds. Good progress was made to Sultan Hamud where more shopping at the roadside stalls for fresh fruit and vegetable took place.


    From Sultan Hamud we continued almost to Kibwezi where we turned off south over a dirt road to the DSWT property at Umani Springs.
    NB. Garmin will try and direct you to a track that is gated and locked. Ignore this if heading east and await another track, clearly signed to Umani.
    The track to Umani is rough in parts as it is founded on lava flow and rock so take care. Umani Springs is a lovely property set in tidy grounds and an ideal place to unwind for a few days. There is also access to the small herd of orphaned Elephants currently being rehabilitated into the wild as part of the DSWT work.
    After Umani and a further supply stop in Kibwezi (mainly for diesel as the next supply will be in Voi after many kms through Tsavo.) we headed north for Ithumba in the previously closed section of Tsavo East NP. Keeping out of the park until over the Yatta plateau and pass, where work is progressing, the roads were rough but not too bad for the 90km since the tar at Kibwezi.

    We rested at Ithumba in very nice tents whilst visiting the main DSWT stockade and release point. Take care after the Gate as there are many elephants around and the thick bush is quite close to the road making sighting very last minute.
    Our stay here was for five nights and quite a unique experience. Self catering of course using the maxim supplies in and rubbish out!
    Total distance to date a meagre 300km mostly on tar.""


    How does that read? I just removed the manure manually.
    Albert

    Progress might have been alright once, but it has gone on too long.

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    Default Re: East African Odyssey. Road trip NBO through Tanzania and back to Uganda.

    Albert,

    Thanks for the effort, it is almost like real reading hope you find a way to make it easier for yourselves.

    I had this once before when I compiled a text in word then copied and pasted it across, so now I type right here with less features.
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    Default Re: East African Odyssey. Road trip NBO through Tanzania and back to Uganda.

    brilliant and inspirational !

    would you say your route is safe to travel with children?

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    Default Re: East African Odyssey. Road trip NBO through Tanzania and back to Uganda.

    Thank you for this trip report, Albert. We will be driving exactly the same route as you described in your first installment in less than three months time - just in the opposite direction. That's just an additional reason why I will be following your trip report with utmost interest.

    Looking forward for the next parts!
    24 hours in a day.... 24 beer in a case.... Coincidence?

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    Default Re: East African Odyssey. Road trip NBO through Tanzania and back to Uganda.

    <would you say your route is safe to travel with children?>
    Hard to answer accurately as 'safety' has so many facets. I am not particularly gung ho but will happily approach elephants when the chance arises. I am more scared of the traffic.
    Physical danger, from Hom sap, is negligible, far less than in some urban environments.
    What would be of more concern to me with small children along would be the tiredness of driving some of the distances involved. However it is possible to break these journeys with more time.

    Edit. Kalahari Sand. I typed this on the page direct and still had the gremlins in.
    Ortelius. You should look forward to that trip. I would offer to navigate but in three months I will be back in Namibia. On a personal note have you met a fellow resident of Ljubljana who lurks on some travel fora under the name xelas?
    Last edited by Albert Ross; 2017/10/12 at 08:43 PM. Reason: Additional response.
    Albert

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    Default Re: East African Odyssey. Road trip NBO through Tanzania and back to Uganda.

    Quote Originally Posted by Albert Ross View Post
    Hard to answer accurately as 'safety' has so many facets. I am not particularly gung ho but will happily approach elephants when the chance arises. I am more scared of the traffic.
    Physical danger, from Hom sap, is negligible, far less than in some urban environments.
    What would be of more concern to me with small children along would be the tiredness of driving some of the distances involved. However it is possible to break these journeys with more time.
    Well said, Albert. Safety has many facets. The greatest danger in Africa (or anywhere else) is road traffic accidents.

    Others following Albert's excellent trip report on his Kenyan section must bear in mind that the David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust's two camps (at Umani Springs in the Kibwezi Forest, and Ithumba in the northern sector of Tsavo East National Park) need to be booked some time before. Furthermore, you need to be a foster parent/sponsor of an elephant(s) in order to be able to book and stay at these fabulous camps/lodges. You cannot just rock up. Albert will have booked this leg of his journey some time before through the Trust.

    Nairobi to Kibwezi on the main road will take about 4 hours (all being well with the traffic). It is perfectly do-able with small children - particularly as they will be unaware of the hair-raising manoeuvres by other road users as they pass the trucks grinding their slow way from Mombasa to all parts of east and central Africa.

    Ortelius: I thought you were going to exit Tsavo East NP north to Kitui and weren't going to drive the main Mombasa-Nairobi road?

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    Default Re: East African Odyssey. Road trip NBO through Tanzania and back to Uganda.

    We are planing our own trip, so all this information is so usefull and very inspirational !!

    We will be travelling with out daughter, who will be 10 when we travel. So just asking the questions around travelling with kids.

    Wazungu, I have read most of your posts and you are extremely knowledgable on these parts. Thanks for always being so willing to share your information.
    Last edited by Slowones; 2017/10/12 at 10:03 PM. Reason: extra info

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    Default Re: East African Odyssey. Road trip NBO through Tanzania and back to Uganda.

    Karibu, slowones! Just shout when if you need any advice or help.

    Safari njema.

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    Default Re: East African Odyssey. Road trip NBO through Tanzania and back to Uganda.

    Quote Originally Posted by Wazungu Wawili View Post
    Ortelius: I thought you were going to exit Tsavo East NP north to Kitui and weren't going to drive the main Mombasa-Nairobi road?
    WW, I haven't decided yet about that.One option is the route you have described in your trip report from Amboseli and Tsavos, heading north to Kitui and then approaching Nairobi via Thika from NE. However, last year, when we approached Nairobi from that direction, our Garmin somehow missed Northern bypass and we were stranded in the chaos of Nairobi traffic for almost two hours. It was a total gridlock and we weren't sure we will ever get out of it. Truly a hair raising experience and particularly my wife doesn't want to live through something similar again. She says that for her, it was the most dreadful two-hours in all of our African travels.

    So, I was looking at another option of approaching Nairobi. That is via notorious Mombasa road. I know about its reputation, but at least approaching Langata (Jungle Junction) from that direction, we will totally avoid Nairobi center, using Southern bypass.
    24 hours in a day.... 24 beer in a case.... Coincidence?

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    Default Re: East African Odyssey. Road trip NBO through Tanzania and back to Uganda.

    Quote Originally Posted by ortelius View Post
    WW, I haven't decided yet about that.One option is the route you have described in your trip report from Amboseli and Tsavos, heading north to Kitui and then approaching Nairobi via Thika from NE. However, last year, when we approached Nairobi from that direction, our Garmin somehow missed Northern bypass and we were stranded in the chaos of Nairobi traffic for almost two hours. It was a total gridlock and we weren't sure we will ever get out of it. Truly a hair raising experience and particularly my wife doesn't want to live through something similar again. She says that for her, it was the most dreadful two-hours in all of our African travels.

    So, I was looking at another option of approaching Nairobi. That is via notorious Mombasa road. I know about its reputation, but at least approaching Langata (Jungle Junction) from that direction, we will totally avoid Nairobi center, using Southern bypass.
    I totally understand, but it will be interesting to hear what your wife says is the more hair-raising two hours - the main Mombasa-Nairobi road or being stuck in gridlock in central Nairobi! I can give you directions of a scenic detour which avoids a considerable section of the Mombasa-Nairobi main road which goes from Makindu through Wote and Machakos and then rejoins the main road about 50kms from Nairobi. Although Machakos can be quite chaotic too!

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    Default Re: East African Odyssey. Road trip NBO through Tanzania and back to Uganda.

    I can share Ortelius's grief having been similarly caught coming in on A2 a couple of years back and hitting the same chaos. A nightmare.
    Part of the problem maybe that Garmin and Track4A mapping show the northern bypass as a minor road and the rump end of A2 as the way to go. Much the same with Southern bypass,(see insert map) where we had to 'enforce' our chosen route out to Athi as Garmin wanted to use the old Langata road and not the bypass. Sometimes one needs a strong sense of spatial awareness on maps as well as crazy traffic.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Albert

    Progress might have been alright once, but it has gone on too long.

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    Default Re: East African Odyssey. Road trip NBO through Tanzania and back to Uganda.

    Quote Originally Posted by Albert Ross View Post
    I can share Ortelius's grief having been similarly caught coming in on A2 a couple of years back and hitting the same chaos. A nightmare.
    Part of the problem maybe that Garmin and Track4A mapping show the northern bypass as a minor road and the rump end of A2 as the way to go.
    If you get the latest edition of Tracks4Africa the new bypasses ought to be on it because we put them on! As for getting on to the Northern Bypass near Ruiru, it is signposted but says Embakasi and Kiambu. You want the Kiambu direction. The main thing is to be on the inside lane (despite illegal stopping by matatus) from just at Ruiru and keep your eyes peeled for the exit. I will try and find out which exit number it is.

    Ditto for the Southern Bypass off the Mombasa Road. It is signposted ? Langata, Karen, Kikuyu. Keep in the inside lane from after going over the railway line just after the airport and all should be well to get on the Southern Bypass. For Jungle Junction, you will have to come off the Southern Bypass at the Langata Road (unless it is rush hour and/or a Saturday afternoon in which case stay on the Southern Bypass to the next junction with the Ngong Road and come off there and then through Karen).

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    Default Re: East African Odyssey. Road trip NBO through Tanzania and back to Uganda.

    WW. The bypasses are on the Traks but the problem seems to be that the "talking tart" picks up the more prominent roads such at A104 and does her best to send you into the traffic jams.
    We had to override her instructions and make the right turn after which she did a computerised "shrug" and recalculated the track we knew we wanted.
    Here is the same clip as before without my snail trail imposed. The By pass is quite clear to us humans but not Gladys Garmin.
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    Albert

    Progress might have been alright once, but it has gone on too long.

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    Default Re: East African Odyssey. Road trip NBO through Tanzania and back to Uganda.

    We always have our "Emily" set on showing the map - not the awful swooping about function. And the map pointing north same as the paper map. If we think she might not take us the route we wish to take, we put in certain waypoints which force her to navigate the route we wish to take. She gets the idea in the end, but the navigator is always on the case with a paper map too!

    People should also remember that T4A is not that great in East Africa as its dataset is gathered from travellers and, being a South African company, it is good in the southern African countries, but not in the East African countries. We are working on it. We often set off into "white space" on our GPS in order to do more mapping for submitting to T4A. If "Emily" was set on the "where to" function when we headed off into "white space" she would have a complete meltdown!

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    Red face Re: East African Odyssey. Road trip NBO through Tanzania and back to Uganda.

    I also have the map orientated to show where we are but with the 'car' to the top so the arrow points to north. KNow points on our chosen route get fed in if she misbehaves or we just ignore her until she gets the message.
    I agree East Africa is not Traks strongest suite. We to send in updates as they are found, one was just a simple problem of the drafting pen being lifted too soon to make a junction and we had Gladys screaming "You turn now" when we knew the road made a junction.
    White space can be fun. Normally the "where to" won't compute but sometimes she just draws a straight line and lets us get on with it. then somehow she finds a track and all is well.
    It happens in Europe too. We are often in the white in Holland where the road runs on reclaimed polders and in one famous case we drove her demented when we took a new bridge over the Meuse near Venlo and she was convinced we were about to die!
    All the news of this trip are already with Traks.
    Am I the only one to get irritated by out of date and irrelevant notes about ephemeral happenings?
    We once got the message 'Driving on elephants" due to somebody putting "Elephants" as a note in Namibia. I wondered what the bumps in the track were.
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    But if we can't find birds she is willing to draw us one.
    Albert

    Progress might have been alright once, but it has gone on too long.

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    Default Re: East African Odyssey. Road trip NBO through Tanzania and back to Uganda.

    Quote Originally Posted by Albert Ross View Post
    Am I the only one to get irritated by out of date and irrelevant notes about ephemeral happenings?
    We once got the message 'Driving on elephants" due to somebody putting "Elephants" as a note in Namibia. .
    No, you are not alone! We too found something like that in Namibia, and also out of date washaway warnings in Uganda (without the date of finding the washaway). However, I think T4A no longer accepts these irritating comments.

    But we have to remember that things change and maps - whether digital or paper - are out of date almost as soon as the "print" button is pressed. Google maps is even worse as they are taking the data from governments and, yes, the road might still be an official road according to their data, but it might now be little more than a bicycle track. At least if a track is shown on T4A then one can be reasonably confident that it has been driven in recent memory by a traveller like you or us (although it might have been by a motorbike). That is one of the many reasons not to set the GPS on the "go to" function.

    Our map function on our GPS does not look like your photo of the "57 pass" in the Southern Highlands of Tanzania, even if we don't get it to look like a goose!

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    Default Re: East African Odyssey. Road trip NBO through Tanzania and back to Uganda.

    OK. Next part.
    After a wonderful stay in Ithumba it was time to head south for Tanzania. Once again Gladys did not like our route and wanted to take us out of the NP. However we know the road south to Lugard Falls and that was the way we went. This road used to be forbidden until recently and permission was needed for two reasons.
    One was "shifta" problems of which the evidence still lies by the roadside in the form of a burned out Mercedes Minibus about 50km south where the tourists were killed. You still get checked out from Ithumba Ranger post and checked back in at the appropriate gate just in case.
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    Two was you never knew if rain had made the crossing of the Galana impossible and being stuck on the north bank was not a good idea. The shifta have gone and there is now a new bridge so all was well.
    The track is in good condition as it is used more regularly particularly by the DSWT tanker bringing water from the Tiva river.
    We passed up using the new bridge for old times sake on the river crossing and once south of that the track was more corrugated from speeding Safari trucks. We regained the tar at Voi Gate and stopped to refuel both the car and ourselves. From Voi we took the main road A23 to Taveta and the Tanzanian border.
    This road was in very good condition and speed bumps apart (through Tsavo West for safety) we made good time apart from a few stops for animal and bird watching.
    Traks took to the bundu from time to time due to road re-alignment and in fact Taveta is now skirted altogether. Border formalities took some time. a. They always do and we had a Ugandan registered vehicle and b, It took some time to convince the Immigration that from 2015 Manx Passport holders get a gratis visa. Thanks Alan and Christine.
    After the border we took a right to spend two nights at Lake Chala Safari Lodge. A lovely place with both chalets, and cooking, as well as the camp site for those that do such things. Elephant and other creatures are present so keep your tents closed.
    After two nights we hit the road again for Tarangire NP and this was mostly tar apart from the first 20km where we took the scenic route around the skirts of Kilimanjaro.
    A brief stop in Arusha to meet friends and pick up supplies from Emmy's niece and next stop was Tarangire NP and Roika Camp for three nights. The tar was good all the way to the turn off at Kwa Kuchinia. After that the gravel was lumpy and the last 6km to camp quite remote although Gladys could see the 'two spoor' track.
    Total distance since Ithumba 505km (plus drives) 800km since NBO.
    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	464159Ithumba to Lake Chala. 13th September. 265km

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ID:	464160Lake Chala to Tarangire 15th September.240km.
    Albert

    Progress might have been alright once, but it has gone on too long.

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